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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)
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Comments
Without a doubt compact electronics is an ongoing problem with just about any manufacturer, even those of high end vehicles. It is a problem of advanced technologies keeping up with more and more human requirements. An earlier posting requested future models come with extra lights and amenities all over the place. This just leads to a more and more complex operating system.
I can design a very complex system. Down the road, you as the consumer, will carry the heartaches. With reference to dashboards and their contents, older, simpler systems carried enormous downtime to repair. Example, removing the cluster to replace a burnt bulb.
Today's systems are technically simpler, but electrically and design-wise more complex. It is also not always possible to bench-test designs, unless and until they are presented in real-world situations. That presents a fractional percentage of trial-and-error.
Just like transmission solenoids, it is hard to determine why only some dimmer control assemblies (leading to dash light failure) have failed. Usually, these are modular units manufactured and sold by a third party.
I don't quite know what really transpired, but I am not convinced that Honda 'sent' your dealer a "bad part". After failing in the first place, your dimmer switch could/would have created other problems, and that should have been thoroughly checked by the service tech before installing the new unit. Hopefully, the whole cluster was checked before releasing the vehicle to you.
Cannot tell if you are unfortunate enough to be dealing with a dealer service of low repute. Maybe try another service department. The choice, though, of ever again buying a Honda, is your sole decision.
Hope you solve the problem soon. Post your results.
Happy driving.
I can see why you are getting to dislike your Honda product.
Could you kindly be more specific when you say "suddenly stop working". Is it one or both sliders? More often, left or right side? When did this first happen and have you reported and logged every instance with your dealer service department? You have used the vehicle since 1999, so I don't think you are operating them improperly, eg. while out of Park.
Has you dealer service done a diagnostic to see if any trouble codes have been stored in the computer. Note that if the door fuses are removed and/or the doors are opened/closed manually (with master switch turned to off - which is the only way you should work them in manual) the close/open sequence has to be relearnt. And the relearn is done only with both sliders in the closed position. (Reason: if inverted, your doors will open when out of Park and will allow you to close them only in Park). The procedure is detailed in the owner's manual. Also, if doors have been used manually, the fuse does not have to be removed to emulate the relearn procedure. Don't quite know what the dealer tech is tanking about.
Hopefully, since your posting, the problem has not recurred. However, if you would like to respond with some exact sequence of actions on your part, it may be possible to save you another trip to the dealer. In the meanwhile, please also check the contact points and switch cylinders on both sides and make sure they are clean and moving freely (do this with engine shut off).
Safe driving.
I am shocked to think the dealer lowered the press to "align" the front end. I will fill the tires today and see how it goes. If I find out the dealer lowered the press to "fix" a problem they could not understand, there is going to be hell to pay. Of course, I don't know any way I could prove it.
I will take in the service bulletin the next time I go in to service. Has anyone else had found this in their car?
It really doesn't take many words to describe the problem and the solution.
I can't recall how many owners have reposted following satisfactory replacement of faulty transmissions. You may not find your answer here.
Except for acnkowledging solenoid problems (to US owners), my letter to Honda Canada has not been replied to. Unfortunately, that is how Honda functions. I think transmission problems have existed for '99 and early '00 models. I have no positive indication but I have not read a purchase after June/July 2000 complaining of these problems. Hopefully Honda has straightened out the component/s problem with the manufacturer or has changed the manufacturer.
To answer if "the Ody is a mechanically reliable vehicle" is one of near impossibility, since 'reliable' is a relative term. In my '99 I heard a noise and diagnosed a situation which might have led to the problem faced by some owners. I did not have the vehicle long enough to see it fail. So far my '01 works perfectly.
You could buy any vehicle in the market and hope it is reliable. No one else can make that choice for you. I have considered every vehicle that I have had reliable because I do most of my own diagnosis and repair. My concept of reliable is, to say the least, different. I can also empathize with folks who have a $30k vehicle on their hands that does not work properly and all they know is how to fill gas and drive.
Good luck to getting a trouble free vehicle - whichever kind it may be.
First time hearing about a cruise control failure. It is possible that the throttle cable adjustment was not done properly, considering yours is a fairly new vehicle. The shop manual details controller problems if cable is not adjusted to specifications. Note that this is an electronic cruise controller and not a vacuum operated unit.
When the new unit arrives, if the dealer just drops it into the bracket and tightens it up, you might see another failed unit. If the service tech is a nice person who does not seem antagonized by your knowledge, ask him if he would not mind installing and re-adjusting the new unit according to specs given in the shop manual. It may seem easy enough, but 2mm of maladjusted cable could spell problems.
Good luck to getting the proper fix (no pun intended).
Chet, amidship, there are no controlling units. Don't quite understand "very high pitched" if you cannot hear it (meaning, a sound a dog can hear - which, in fact, is ultrasonic sound). Your discreption and my reading tell me that you are hearing fuel sending unit/pump whine. This will be audible within the vehicle, but more pronounced outside/under the vehicle. It is easy to isolate. It will be louder in cold weather. It will tend to increase with acceleration as pump works harder.
Have your dealer service put the vehicle on a hoist with it running and listen for the sound. Alternatively, he can access the sending unit through the floor and listen again.
However, before you go for this, make sure you are not getting electrical radio signal static whine from your rear speakers. This is another cause of 'whine' from rear quarters.
Glad to know that you do not have transmission problems. Good luck to long driving. However, I would not permit myself to believe that fuel pump whine (if diagnosed so) is normal. Something is under pressure. A new pump may be in order, but that is not so bad.
Please post your comments, findings and results.
Please take it easy on the one-liners. Maybe you figure I am wasting everyone's time.
The subject of the post was a second failure of the same component. I don't think any of us are intellectually challenged to know that if something breaks, get if fixed.
These forums give folks a chance to learn from others and be more prepared when confronted with an automotive problem, especially from a manufacturer and product of percieved high repute. Above all, just writing in this forum signifies a human aspect. Concern, worry, safety, possible major expense, and others.
Lets be more understanding to such aspects. The dealer service can take care of the cut-and-dry matters.
Happy driving.
1.) The wrong part was being discussed as defective.
2.) It doesn't take as many words to describe a problem and its solution as some folks seem wont to use.
My '99 Odyssey has been wonderful. Lately, we have noticed that the passenger door sometimes opens on its own!
We come out of the house to see it sitting there with the door open.
Does anyone have any idea what is going on?
Thanks in advance,
Jack
PS> My wife needs a new battery for her remote now.
Also, so you don't think you're crazy if all remotes are/were accounted for (remembering that it only takes one jab on the button to open the door), there was one repeated case reported in these topics of an apparently-not-FOB-caused phantom door opening. This was probably due to RFI (radio frequency interference), but never proven. OTOH, I haven't seen any follow up from that poster, so perhaps the mystery was solved (maybe it did turn out to be someone messing with the other FOB?) or a problem fixed.
I have these questions for you;
- Do you work for Honda as a mechanic/service advisor?
- Are you an automotive mechanic?
- Are you an electrician/electrical engineer?
- Do you have at least 3 years hands on repair experience with the redesigned Odyssey and/or 15+ years in the automotive industry?
Why the questions;
- You give the impression you have a lot of technical experience with the '99+ Odys.
- You make statements more attuned to 'The Bible'. No questions asked!
My concerns;
- You have made two statements; one indicating lack of research, and the other, information being incorrect. This relates to design and operating parameters of the Ody.
- This forum is for 'discussion'. When you make implied statements, you also put posters in a bad position. Who better knows the Ody than the dealer service technicians!!?? Then, why bother posting concerns at all when it comes to technical matters and dealers?
- As to the content of posts and length of explanations, it is your opinion. Probably like all the other sixty posts, don't bother reading it, you can recoginze the sender. It is there for the one reader who my appreciate it.
- If you answer 'yes' to two or more of the four questions above, then, you are more qualified than I to provide suggestions in this forum. I will take my leave with dignity - I know when to leave the job best done by the experts. And, I won't be answering the above questions. It does not matter who or what I am.
To all the other readers, my apologies if you found this and other posting to be long and a waste of your time.
Happy driving to all.
Thanks...
2k1odyssey-do not be perturbed. Most people in this forum don't mind well-meaning posts no matter how verbose or technical. I have seen many and I just skip them if I cannot understand them or am not interested. Not so long ago some posters tried to run off timothydavis and he has to stick around at least until he gets his ody. Please keep on posting. I may need your advice on a problem one day (although I hope not).
timothydavis-I am surprised you didn't mention to our newer readers that static shocks can be minimized by driving naked. We count on you to provide your special brand of whimsical advice.
PS- things could be worse, we could have more Trolls.
PPS-7500 miles and no problems with my 2000 CSS LX.
At 15,500 miles my 2000 Odyssey started to make a grinding noise coming from the rear drums when I applied the brakes. The dealer turned the drums and replaced the pads under warantee and the problem has disappeared.
Squeaking Rear Vent Motors
About 4 months after I bought my Odyssey the rear vent motors started to squeak when actuated. The dealer replaced the motors under warantee and the problem disappeared until last month. Now they squeak again. The dealer has told me that Honda is coming out with a more reliable design for the motors by the end of December.
2klodyssey: I at first felt like mschafer about your long, achingly-detailed posts on problems and trouble-shooting analyses. I skipped many. However, I then noticed others expressing how you have helped them and now check your posts more carefully. Now I will join those saying keep up the good work. Some of these things require a lot of analysis and, consequently, a lot of words to describe sufficiently.
mschafer: Someone once asked Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens for the anal retentive) to give a talk to their group. "How much will you charge us?" the man asked Twain. "Well, that depends on how long you want me to speak." he replied. "What do you mean?" the man asked, somewhat confused.
Mark Twain wound himself up, "Well, if you want me to speak for 10 minutes, that would be $1,000. If for a half an hour, $500. If 1 hour, $100. If you let me speak as long as I want to, then I'll do it for free. It's just very hard to get everything said that needs saying if you require me to be brief!"
(Now, before the literary historians correct me, let me say what Mark Twain himself said about accuracy in story telling, "If it didn't happen that way, it should have!")
phil47: I immediately felt guilty at your rebuke of us smar tasses. However, then I remembered that, while I have been known to occasionally post something unkind and frequently smart alecky, I have seldom been seen to limit myself to one line. ;-)
I can't reach in my pocket but I can just twist enough to reach the inside lever, but the child locks are on. Can't reach the dash so I start yelling out to my 4YO son outside the van. "Open the door - Open the door". My well trained son replies "No Daddy - I'm not supposed to open the door" - Darn those parenting lessons.
I finally manage to push the right fob button through my coat and extricate myself. I still love the power doors, but am more careful with fob placement.
Other than that, there was no problem.
Anyway, ours became a safety prblm and you should have it fixed before yours does. My wife was stopped at a signal when all of a sudden the clutch engaged and the engine reved. She had to stomp on the brake to avoid hitting the vehicle in front of her. FWIW ours took a minimum of 4 to 5 miles driving to make the prblm occur (first trip to dealer got same response as yours, so I asked how far they drove it and found they'd gone only a couple of miles). On the 2nd trip my wife rode w/ the tech (who drove) and she said his expression was priceless when it happened and he said, "Whoa! That's not supposed to happen!"
I need a hood, front bumper, right fender and headlight for my 2000 EX after a deer decided to customize it with his rather large body and horned head. Fortunately, no one was hurt, including the deer (I think) who just ran off into the woods.
If I'm in the wrong Odyssey forum, just let me know.
Thanks,
Terry
As for the beeping doors there are service bulletins out to improve grounds, adjust door junction switches, insure junction switch wires are moving independently and check door alignment.As well as a bulletin for an inop door and a code 25 stored on computer.
As a last note, most door problems can be repaired
if all the bulletins are completed and the door latch replaced on the side of the problem door.
Not the same as a major body panel, but it is an indicator of the spare parts availability.
Dan
My question is this: what should we look for? What should we do during the test drive? We have 4 kids and can't afford to pay $25,074 for a van that is going to break down. We have owned Honda Civics twice and loved them, but it seems that the Odysseys have a lot of bad posts here.
I would really appreciate your help. They also have a Sienna we could have, but it is $7,000 more. The only other option is to buy American and we want to steer clear of doing that.
Thanks so much for your help, it is very much appreciated.
I have had NONE of the problems mentioned in this list.
No pull to the right or left, tranny noise, gas sloshing, sticking doors, loose parts on the roof rack, cracked rear spoiler, dribbling rear window washer, self adjusting front seat ... NONE of them.
The van has been been a joy to drive and own and I hope I am in the majority of owners. Any production product will run the gamut, from the perfect to the lemon. It just a matter of which company you think has the best percentages and who will handle legitimate complaints the best.
Dan
2000 GG Ody Nav
Picked up Nov '99
15k+ miles
Thanks
The door will not close under it's own power. I then have to push the back end after it fails.
Then when driving the alarm goes off. I can then shut it off by pushing the close button. After a few minutes , the alarm continues to go off. After all this, I just turn off the power switch.
Never had a problem with the driver side door!
Does anyone have any ideas???
I just got a Christmas card from my salesman. I would highly recommend J.D. Pitman at Pohanka Honda in Fredericksburg, VA.
an Ex 2001 with just 1300 miles on it. The manual said to recheck to gas cap and drive around for a couple of trips should reset the light. I did all that and the light didn't go away. The manual also
said not to prolong the driving if the check engine light could not be reset and bring it to a dealer. I'm ready to bring the van to the dealer,
but just wondering if there are any info or experience that anyone can suggest so that I can
arm with some facts in hoping to get the dealer to
look at this problem seriously and accurately. After all, from a few posts I read before, this could be related to some solenoids or transmission problems.
Thank you in advance for any feed back or advices
"It does not require many words to speak the truth." - Chief Joseph
I told the salesman of experience and he said if it was a problem, it would be fixed during the PDI.
I started reading these forums on Sunday and this problem seems fairly common.
How is this corrected? Is it a serious problem to fix?
Should I take delivery if problem still exists?
Has Honda addressed this problem?
Thanks