Buick Regal

tsu670 · July 2001

Have you replaced the air filter element yet? How 'bout the PCV? (Sorry, that last one is an inside joke.... I've reently posted my frustration trying to find the little bugger!).

obyone · July 2001

bad gas mileage is the O2 sensor. Best check it out...better yet...they are cheap so just replace them.

pacinpelo · July 2001

Has anyone changed this yet, I am about there at 15K.
I assume it is not difficult.

verdi942 · July 2001

obyone - where is the O2 sensor located? Thanks.

obyone · July 2001

looked when I owned one. It's either located one each in each exhaust manifold or before and after each catalytic converter.

rcarboni · July 2001

Much clearer now that you explained the 1/2 hr. labor charge. Just seems silly to me to pay for 1/2 hr. when only 5 minutes was actual work, but I understand your situation.

Most car repairs are relatively simple, and some can really help you out if you are stuck far from home. I try to always carry spare radiator hoses, belt, and some simple tools. There are many good books on simple repairs, and even some classes at local colleges.

For people like me who do everything themselves, you have to get the Service Manuals. Well worth the $100.

PAman · July 2001

wkb4447,

I own a '96 Regal GS, loaded with sunroof and leather. The 3800 V-6 is a great engine, and this one runs like a charm. Mine has 82,000 miles on it.

I've owned several Buicks with the 3800 V-6, both supercharged and without the supercharger. The late 80's to early 90s 3800 engines had problems with a main bearing,(Buick had a recall on it) harmonic balancers and water pumps. All of these bugs have been worked out. The 3800, or 3.8L is so good, Wards Automotive has named it one of the Top 10 Engines in the World.

HOWEVER, the dealer's price is WAY too high, especially for a custom. The local dealer here in San Antonio has a loaded '96 GS similar to mine, and is asking $8995. I'm sure he would take at least $500 less. I've toyed with selling mine, since my wife has a '99 GS and I have a new truck and I really don't need the '96, but I would never expect to get anywhere near $10K for mine, and it is a loaded GS! If somebody offered me $8500 for mine, I would probably take the offer in an instant.

Try going to autotrader.com, edmunds.com or cars.com to find a more reasonably priced Regal in your area. The dealer is asking way too much for that car.

Joe

tsu670 · July 2001

Hi pacinpelo. Yes, I replaced mine not too long ago. Fun job(!). Most of the instructions are spelled out in owner's manual, but in case you purchased car used and didn't get one, here are instructions with my notes in parenthesis:
1. Turn on wipers, then turn off when they are in the up position.
2. Remove windshield washer pump hose from the fender rail and air inlet grille. (The hose slides towards rear from under brackets. Lift over fender rail on far right side).
3. Reposition hood weatherstrip from passenger's side of vehicle. (Lift up end on far right side and pull up slowly, but stop when you get half way across).
4. Disconnect air inlet grille retainers. (Again, just need to do the passenger side. There are 3 retainers: one large round one that simply unscrews by hand; and two smaller ones that you gently pop up with a screw driver. The pop ups are in two pieces. Pop up the plug from inside the outer retainer, then grip the outer retainer with your fingers and remove. Careful. Don't drop these parts behind the engine).
5. Disconnect the air inlet grille. (I used a screw driver to gently pry under the grille closest to engine. Also, you'll need to carefully pull up the section of grille under the far right side from under the top of the right fender. Again you just need to pry up the passenger half of the grille.
6. Remove the passenger compartment air filter. (There's a loop you can grab and pull on. Won't come straight out. Must kind of maneuver it to one side and pull out the long way. I think I got the passenger side end started first, then turned it so it came out length-wise. It was filthy!!!).
7. Install new air filter. (The "fun" part. It won't go straight in, and if you force it the element will just bend or compress itself out of shape. Use a good light and look inside where it is supposed to go and you'll see brackets in the very back on both the left and right sides. The trick is to get the rear corners of filter into those brackets. I think I slid driver's side of filter in first, then gently started passenger side, then used a 10" magnetic pickup - or anything that's long and skinny that won't tear the filter - to gently push the driver and passenger sides into their rear brackets. Probably won't work the first time, but be patient with it and it try again. When done be sure foam gasket around front of filter is pushed down into housing before replacing air inlet grille).
8. (Put it all back together. Line the retainer holes of air inlet grille up with the holes in the body beneath - you may need to pull the grille slightly to the passenger side. The retainers you removed with a screw driver go in next. Push in outer part first, then note how inner plugs are shaped and line them up to fit the shape of the hole of the outer part. Push in with your thumb. Screw on larger round retainer, then put weatherstrip and windshield washer pump hose back. Done).
Hope this helps. Good luck. Ken

pacinpelo · July 2001

Wow, sounds easy...Ken
LOL
I will give it a go when the time comes

rcarboni · July 2001

Thanks Ken.

Where did you get your replacement filter?

tsu670 · July 2001

Purchased AC Delco filter (CF-121; part number 10406026 according to my log) from Buick dealer. Pricey, though. $29. You might try your auto parts store first, but don't be surprized if they say "Sorry, dealer part." For those who have followed my saga re: PC Valve for 3800 Series II Normal, the Buick dealer parts counter fellow came out to show me where it was on the engine... and he couldn't find it either! Still giggling! Ken

rcarboni · August 2001

Ken,

Thanks for the info. I have the 2000 service manuals (not with me unfortunately), and I am going to find the PCV valve diagram and try to scan the picture for you.

9899olds · August 2001

I just your posting about the belt replacement and the scam of constant replacement..Never have replaced a belt in 43 owned cars..My last high mileage car was a 94 LeSabre that did 113k miles quickly..Other than oil changes every 4/5k miles and air filter cartridge replacement every 25k miles; nothing else was done to the engine ..zippo..zippo..nada..The engine was used to operating in the 70/80 mph range, and the suspension was changed at 50k to after market struts that enabled the second set of tires to last into the 113k range with lots of tread left..and handling was vastily improved along with elimination of the drastic Buick dip upon braking..

The other Buick story on belts, 95k miles on 92 Buick Regal GS..same original.. Belts tend to crack on the edges; but it sure doesn't harm the life of the belt; in fact all the mechanic has to do is twist the belt and bingo has a good story to tell..

Another one is the PVC valve and the array of pollution devices are always a top service writer topic, just tell them you will take it under advisement, cause you are in a hurry. Throttle body cleaning is a hot topic and a total waste..

If every runs well; then don't try to refix it..

tsu670 · August 2001

Ok, finally got the skinny on PC valve. On non-supercharged motors it is at the belt end up high under a cap with wires coming out that says in small letters "Pressure Sensor". I now understand this is not a normal maintenance item, so I probably wasted my time, but it is interesting nevertheless.

To replace it:
1. Gently remove snap-on wire clip from top of sensor.
2. Gently remove top of sensor where wire harness clipped into by squeezing the four retaining clips inwards and lifting up. Use care not to force it too much or something might break.
3. Now the fun part. Using both hands, turn the black plastic housing counter-clockwise about 1/4 turn until it stops. You may need to gently push down a little on it to get it started. Carefully lift it out of its receptacle. You will notice a large spring on the end. Don't worry; it is fastened to the part you're removing, so it shouldn't fall off.
4. You should now be able to see the top of the PC valve down in the hole. Reach in and remove with your fingers. I had to give it an ever so slight wiggle to get it loose. Pull it straight up, but not too fast as there is an "O" ring on it that you'll want to reuse when you install the new one.
5. Note the condition of the component, then laugh as you realize you went to all this work only to find it doesn't need replacing. At 19,000 miles it is in excellent shape.
6. After laughing is done, remove "O" ring from said part that doesn't need replacing and put it on new $1.87 Farm part. Slide PC valve back in and give it a little push from the top so that you hear it snap into place.
7. Put it all back together, update your maintenance log, and go have a beer on the deck knowing it was a worthless job, but a job well done nevertheless.
Ken

Bushwack · August 2001

Just thought I'd share..
.
As I was driving past a Buick dealership today, I remembered that I needed to change the battery in my key fob. So as a matter of convenience, I pulled into the dealership, walked to the parts department and asked for a battery replacement. I said to myself that worse case scenerio, the battery will cost me $8 - $10 (probably twice as much as a purchase at my local Walgreens). Well, my eyes almost left their sockets when I was told it would cost $32 and as to whether that will be cash, check or charge. Obviously I walked out.
.
Pulled into my local Walgreens this evening, walked to the photo department and purchased two batteries (they come packaged in two) for a grand total of $3.29 (excluding tax).
.

abrams3 · August 2001

I got a 90 Regal Custom from an elderly neighbor with 20k miles. I took it home and after a few days noticed the brake lights don't work. The fuses are good, the bulbs are fine and I tried to check the switch at the pedal. Low and behold, there is no switch at the pedal. I guess it's a huge box that's V shaped with a bunch of connectors on it. I haven't looked at a diagram yet but, does anyone know where it's located? In addition, does anyone know if that's a common problem? The rest of the lights work great. Parking, turn signals, back up... don't know if it was like that when I got it or if it just happened. I think they were working a couple days ago. What do you recommend? I don't know if this info is needed but, here goes: 3.1L No ABS. Also, the driver window gets stuck going up and down in the same place twice. It makes a farting sound like the gears are stripping when it gets stuck. I have to push on the window to get it moving again and pull on it when it's on the way up. Does it have gas or is it a major problem?

verdi942 · August 2001

...is a must on my "99 3800. Thanks to those who said the dirty [original @ 27K] air cleaner element was the culprit in a drop of 5+!MPG. $5 and 10 minutes later [that rubber duct to the intake is a bear to move] I'm seeing 22+ again [knockaround driving]. As a comparison, my neighbor's new Focus never sees the good side of 25.

PAman · August 2001

Abrams3,

If you have no brake lights, you are asking to have your low-mileage Regal destroyed at the next stoplight.

As for the brake switch, it usually is a simple spring-loaded button switch with two, three or four wires connected to it. The switch is usually mounted in an L-shaped bracket on the steering column in front of the brake pedal. It is usually held in place by a horseshoe-shaped retaining clamp that is designed to easily slide off so you can move the switch towards or away from the brake pedal, thereby adjusting when the brake lights go on and off.

If you don't see a switch like this, look for the L-shaped clamp near the brake pedal, with a round hole, but nothing in it. Nearby should be a two, three or four wire harness not plugged into anything. If you have basic mechanical ability, you could install the switch yourself. The part is readily available at most parts stores. Be sure to get the retaining clamp as well.

If the switch is loose, the brake lights would stay on all the time, and the battery would constantly be going dead. By not having any brake lights, I think the previous owner or a sloppy technician must have removed it when the brake lights were staying on all the time, and not replaced it. This is carelessness, bordering on negligence.

If you don't want to do the work yourself, get the car to a competent repair shop immediately and get this fixed. If you live very far away from a shop, or have to drive in heavy traffic, have the car towed. The switch is a common item and shouldn't cost more than $15-25, and about 1/2 hour of labor to install it.

Having been rear-ended @ 45-50 MPH while sitting at a red light in a perfectly restored 1972 Chevy El Camino SS by a woman reading a billboard rather than watching the road, I can assure you this is NOT a situation you want to experience for yourself.

Joe

aguyindenver · August 2001

First of all, let me take a moment to thank everyone on this board who has helped me out with lots of good advice after I purchased my 98 GS a couple months ago. Thanks, you've been very helpful! Now on to today's topic:

As I mentioned a while ago, the display on my climate control panel has faded and is almost unreadable. Several responses from you folks have given me the hope that maybe it is possible to replace just the display itself (rather than the entire climate control unit). I went to my local dealership today, but unfortunatly, they say they can only sell me the whole unit, at a cost of something like $460. If I have them install it we're talking maybe $600-$800 total(my rough estimate). Is there any chance my dealer just doesn't know about the availability of display panel? ...or maybe there's a TSB on this...or maybe it can be obtained somewhere else? I've had a closer look at the beast, and it appears that the display just pops out and so would be easily replaceable. I probably sound desparate about this but I would really like to avoid paying the relatively big bucks on what I consider a really minor item!

By the way, I checked into getting it covered on the recently expired warranty (I'm several months PAST the 3 year mark, but actually within the 36k miles). The dealer said they MIGHT be able to work out something - like I'll pay for only the labor or only the part or some such. Probably they won't since I'm not the original owner. But at the very least I will be charged just for them to "look at it" (don't really understand why they can't just SEE that it isn't working!) And even if I do get some partial coverage I'm in for many hundreds of $$$.

I would appreciate it if anyone has any additional advice on the matter. Otherwise I think I'll just live with it, or else start hitting the junk yards.

PAman · August 2001

If this is the display that shows the vent positions, and has the outside temp display, my '99 GS is on its' THIRD one. Last one lasted about 4 months. Thankfully, the replacements have all been under warranty.

They are doing exactly what you described...the display fades out from the outside edges in.

Here is what I would suggest:

1. See what the dealer can do about getting it covered. If he gets nowhere, call the 1-800 number for Buick, or tell the service manager you want to talk to the Buick zone rep the next time he comes in the shop. Make sure you let him know you are aware that Buick is apparently having a problem with these units. When mine went out, my dealer made it sound as if he has seen a lot of the Regal units going out. Find out what is the best offer they will make for you.

2. In the meantime, get the part number from the dealer, go to www.gmpartsdirect.com and type in the part number. See what it would cost. They can't be hard to replace; my dealer did the last one in about 15-30 minutes.

3. Also check with local salvage yards to see if they have one out of a wrecked Regal. The unit should be the same for all Regals from 97.5 to the 2002 models.

When you find out what Buick will do for you, you can make a decision about what is the best way to go.

Good luck!

Joe

abrams3 · August 2001

PAman,

Thanks for the info. I did find a grey plastic switch that has a spring loaded piston in it. The end of the piston is touching the Brake pedal. When the pedal is depressed the piston is let out. It is located on the frame in front of the pedal. The switch looks as if it is threaded for adjustment of closeness to the pedal arm. I took what looked to be a wire harness of the back of the switch to expose the wires and found nothing. What looked to be a wire harness actually looks like a vacum hose. I tried to trace the hose up but it went to far into the dash. Am I looking at the wrong thing? I called Checker Auto Parts and they pulled the "Stop Light Switch" and said it was huge. It's "V" shaped and has a three or four wire connectors on it. They said it looks like it could fit in the steering column itself. Before I get schematics what do you think?

beechjet21 · August 2001

If I remember correctly there was a recall for the early 1990's Regal for the brake light switch. It may be worth your while to check with your Buck dealer.

evize · August 2001

Just got the car back from the dealer to correct the surging problem that happened
off idle. A leak-down test found a bad exhaust valve in #4 cyl.

The cyl head was sent to a machine shop, and a new valve & seat put in. This has
solved the problem!!

Re: the fading display..... when I bought my '98 GS used back in June/01, the display
was completely dark. The dealer replaced it as part of the deal... It was only a 15 minute
job, so I don't see how it can be the entire temp control system.
To a "aguyindenver"... Good Luck with correcting the display problem. It seems to me
Buick has a general problem with this part (too many reports of it happening) Other
suggestion to follow up with GM reps is good advice! Could be a hidden warranty on this!!.

Ed

armtdm · August 2001

Does anyone know why they bother to place this over the engine. It serves no purpose other then to make filling oil more difficult as well as access to other components. Perhaps looks alone?

pgorges · August 2001

Take a look at the Regal owner reviews at MSN carpoint. They are all very positive. This car will forever be a "sleeper car". Too bad Buick doesn't realize what a good car they have. If they go down the family sedan path and replace the Century with the Regal, it will be a sad day in my book. I love the Regal GSE for the fact that it is different from your ordinary Honda Accord. Boring sedans is what drove the SUV craze.

Is the Regal chassis capable of great handling?
Does it just need some minor suspension improvements or is the 'W' body style (I think that is correct) just not designed for performance handling? How is the Pontiac GTP handling. I personally feel my GSE with the Gran Tourning suspension is not all that bad, but auto mags point to the handling as a minus.

I have to keep my pledge of never owning a mini van or "family car". In the future I guess I will have to look at $30,000 plus imports. I would really hate to pay that much for a sedan.

omightyisis · August 2001

Well, we took the plunge- the 94 was making us nervous with some apparent transmission problems, along with a few other annoyances (a/c broken, passenger window motor died, etc.). We still loved the car, and had tested the GS- loved the power! Wound up finding a used 2001 LS with 30K miles on it (was a rental, according to Carfax) and got it for $15K. It's got all the nice stuff- leather, CD, power everything- we can hardly believe our good fortune! We're hoping there's nothing horribly wrong with the car- bought additional warranty just in case. So, if anyone has any advice on what to watch out for, we'd be ever grateful. Thanks!

lateralus · August 2001

I have an '88 Buick that I use to drive to-and-fro work, and have had it for 8 yrs. Good car except for 4 alternators, 2 sets of rotors, 1 transmission, and 1 engine overhaul. At 146,000 miles these are some of the major items, and I don't even mistreat the car. I had a '92 Lexus w/ 130k and nothing close to problems like this. Oh well, maybe it's apples to oranges (or Detroit to Japan). I drive 2 Hondas now for my real cars--the Buick just gets me around. By the way, what connection do you have to Beechjets? Because I maintain 3 of them for a living.

hookdog · August 2001

I have to replace a burned out light bulb (turn signal arrow light) in my '98 Regal instrument panel. Does anyone have a recommended manual on how to gain access for such a repair?

boston14 · August 2001

does anyone know if the 98 Regal LS has the same horsepower as the 01 Model. Might buy a 98 used one.

PAman · August 2001

Abrams3,

The switch you found with the vacuum hose is the switch to release the cruise control. I'm not sure if the brake lights are routed through the same switch, but I would recommend checking with the dealer's parts department.

Have the guy at the Buick parts counter pull a new brake light switch and let you look at it. That way, you'l know what the switch looks like when you are checking your car. He should also be able to tell you if the cruise and brake functions are controlled by the same switch.

By the way, how do you know for sure that the rear brake light bulbs are good? Remember, those bulbs have TWO filaments; one filament is not as bright as the other and is only used when the headlights or parking lights are turned on. It IS remotely possible that all of the bulbs have blown their brighter filament. I've seen this happen on a lens with bad seals, and moisture got in and deteriorated the bulbs. The easiest check is to replace one of the bulbs with a brand new one--if the brake light works on that bulb alone, then replace the rest of them.

Also, check for a loose ground wire coming off of the black harness. All bulbs have to be grounded now because the entire lens assembly is plastic. If that ground wire came loose, it would cause the problems you are describing. It usually is attached to the floor of the trunk or a brace near the hinge by a small silver screw.

Armtdm,

The plastic cover is a sound deadener. Also, customers have shown a preference for a "neater" looking engine compartment in focus groups after the vacuum-hose spagetti nightmares on most engines in the late 70s and early 80s. Some engines had as many as 30 to 40 vacuum hoses and you couldn't even see the engine! Nowdays, everything on the outside of a car is either designed to help improve aerodynamics and/or give the look and feel that customers want.

Beechjet21,

Sorry to hear about your problems, but ALL GM cars from the late 80s are about as similar to today's GM engines as a P-51 Mustang is to an F-16 Falcon. (Yes, I work for the Air Force!) The latest J.D. Power and Associates survey shows Buick better than ALL foreign cars except for Lexus ($50-77K) and Toyota by only one point. That includes beating Nissan, Honda, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Kia, Hyundai, and a host of others.

Joe

PAman · August 2001

Virtually the only changes to the Regal since the current model was introduces as a 97.5 are as follows:

1. A folding rear seat,
2. A driver's side side air bag, mounted in the seat,
3. That HIDEOUS Joseph Abbound 'designer' package that comes in two-tone poop brown,
4. Price increases, of course

The 3.8 engines, in supercharged and non-supercharged versions, are the same.

Now, if you want to see REAL change, check out the Regal GNX that Buick did for last year's SEMA show at:

http://www.canadiandriver.com/news/001028-1.htm

I'm still waiting to find out when I can order one of those!!

Joe

yurakm · August 2001

As well as I remember, the 3.8l engines became a bit more powerful from 1999(?). 200hp vs. 195hp for 1997.5-1998(?) with Regal LS.

Do not think, though, that this does really matter.

rcarboni · August 2001

If you have a GS, you could easily make it into a GNX for about 3-5K:

Intercooler from Thrasher: $2000 (with fuel mods)
Headers from TOG: $900
Exhaust: $500-1000 (depending on customization)
Intake: $200

The only items that you may have trouble finding are the body flares and spoiler, but I'm sure someone sells them. The wheels are an option I wouldn't want.

Now, if Buick would sell the GNX for under $30K, I'd be in line for one!

PAman · August 2001

The latest horsepower boosts came in '96, when Buick started using the "Series II" 3800. That year, horsepower went to 200 or 205 for the non-supercharged version, and 240 for the blown engine.

Joe

yurakm · August 2001

Beefed-up transmission from SLP - about $3500;

Smaller supercharger pilleys from several manufacturesr - about $75, or $200 with tools;

12" front brake rotors, pads, calipers - about $300;

etc., etc.

yurakm · August 2001

http://www.edmunds.com/used/1998/buick/regal/4drlssedan/specs.html?id=lin0066

Bushwack · August 2001

Speaking from mostly a mechanical aspect, there was a 5 hp increase over the 1998 model year and I think fuel capacity decreased by 1 gallon (18.5 to 17.5 gallons). On a related topic, the a/c system changed. 1999 and newer models have a new compressor and fan for quieter operation. Also (and this I'm not sure of), I think the steering assembly changed from 1998 to newer models. Do any of these items make a difference in resale value??? I think not
.
Not that I'm biased (my GS is a 2000), but I think the most trouble free model years for the Regal will be from 1999.5 thru 2002. 1999 saw a few new changes from 1998; allowing the first few months of that model year to get the kinks out. Since 1999, mechanically the car is the same. Differences are in the ammenities.
.
And I forgot...the 2001 Regals have added sound insulation under the right rear wheel (why the right and not the left or the front two wheel,...I don't know).
.

Bushwack · August 2001

FWIW... Came across this article on the 2001 Regal written from the Canadian prospective (and no, it isn't in french!).

.

<http://www.canadiandriver.com/testdrives/01regal.htm>

On a side note, I have a friend seriously interested in the Kia Sedoma (Kia's new minivan). Edmunds has little info on the vehicle. Carsdirect.com and vehix.com both have NO INFORMATION! I'm specifically trying to obtain MSRP and invoice pricing. I'd prefer to 'build my own' and see where the numbers sit. Can someone suggest a site with similar features to carsdirect.com? Please, don't mention MSN.

.

Thanks in advance.

PAman · August 2001

Right now, I couldn't recommend ANYONE spend money on a Kia or Hyundai product.

Kia recently went through bankruptcy in Korea, and was bought up by Hyundai. At the time, Hyundai Group bought 51% of Kia stock from a Korean bankruptcy court, but has since reduced their percentage of ownership to 46%. Hyundai was part of the conglomorate owned by a family for several generations, whose patriarch died in April. They recently had financial problems of their own to the tune of $733 million, so Hyundai Motors split off from the parent company, along with Hyundai Electronics, which recently changed its name to Hynix America Electronics, and Hyundai Heavy Industries. While profits of both Hyundai Motors and Kia are at or near record levels, their solvancy is more tied to the Korean market rather than the U.S. market. That is the primary reason for my skepticism. If the Asian economy has another downturn, they could be in big financial trouble again. If they go under, that 10-year warranty they love to brag about wouldn't be worth the paper it's printed on.

As for Daewoo, their picture seems to be much better, thanks to the financial involvement of General Motors. GM is working night and day to build new alliances into the China market, and Daewoo seems to be one of their aces. GM and Daewoo are announcing new agreements nearly every month to manufacture, market and distribute each others' cars in various markets. There is a good chance that GM will buy Daewoo, but no final decision has been announced.

On a personal note, I drove a new Daewoo (19 miles on the odometer when I got it from the rental company) for five days last year throughout the panhandle of Florida and southern Alabama. The car was their small or mid-size model. It drove well in 70-80 MPH traffic, but was barely big enough for my height of 6'2". While the engine was small, the overall fit and finish of the car was good.

Bottom line: if you must have a small SUV, try the Chevy Tracker, which is built by Suzuki for Chevy, or the Suzuki Vitara or Gran Vitara. Of course, at this time of year, the closeout incentives from GM are so good, you could buy a bigger vehicle for about the same money.

Joe

rcarboni · August 2001

Yes, it never ends!

I want the Koni struts and Eibach springs as well.

PAman · August 2001

Right now, I couldn't recommend ANYONE spend money on a Kia or Hyundai product.

Kia recently went through bankruptcy in Korea, and was bought up by Hyundai. At the time, Hyundai Group bought 51% of Kia stock from a Korean bankruptcy court, but has since reduced their percentage of ownership to 46%. Hyundai was part of the conglomorate owned by a family for several generations, whose patriarch died in April. They recently had financial problems of their own to the tune of $733 million, so Hyundai Motors split off from the parent company, along with Hyundai Electronics, which recently changed its name to Hynix America Electronics, and Hyundai Heavy Industries. While profits of both Hyundai Motors and Kia are at or near record levels, their solvancy is more tied to the Korean market rather than the U.S. market. That is the primary reason for my skepticism. If the Asian economy has another downturn, they could be in big financial trouble again. If they go under, that 10-year warranty they love to brag about wouldn't be worth the paper it's printed on.

As for Daewoo, their picture seems to be much better, thanks to the financial involvement of General Motors. GM is working night and day to build new alliances into the China market, and Daewoo seems to be one of their aces. GM and Daewoo are announcing new agreements nearly every month to manufacture, market and distribute each others' cars in various markets. There is a good chance that GM will buy Daewoo, but no final decision has been announced.

On a personal note, I drove a new Daewoo (19 miles on the odometer when I got it from the rental company) for five days last year throughout the panhandle of Florida and southern Alabama. The car was their small or mid-size model. It drove well in 70-80 MPH traffic, but was barely big enough for my height of 6'2". While the engine was small, the overall fit and finish of the car was good.

Bottom line: if you must have a small SUV, try the Chevy Tracker, which is built by Suzuki for Chevy, or the Suzuki Vitara or Gran Vitara. Of course, at this time of year, the closeout incentives from GM are so good, you could buy a bigger vehicle for about the same money.

Joe

evize · August 2001

I've noticed from earlier entries that a cross-brace can be added to the GS(mine is
a '98) that joins the two strut towers. How does this help the handling of the car?

Where can they be bought & how difficult are they to install?? Are they factory
installed on later model GS's??

Thanks in advance...Ed

rcarboni · August 2001

Yes, the brace is standard equipment on later models, but they can be added to older models.

Buy it here under suspension:

http://www.grandprixstore.com/

saile · August 2001

Has anyone ever taken a look at the "STOCK" Strut Tower-Brace???
It's attached on both sides with a U Shaped bolt system...NONE OF WHICH really attaches to two struts as ONE.
For about $200-275 and 90 minutes you could place a front and rear set to vastly improve turns!!! It's attached by three bolts on each side from the strut...VERY STURDY!!! What the heck go all out and chrome the front set.

The front should be easy...20 minutes TOP. The rear...takes time; cut hands, sore neck, strange positions...YUCK!!! All in all it's an easy install!!!

Adios,
Saile

saile · August 2001

Correct me if I'm wrong...
One major difference(decrease in HP)in the 98 LS was the 90 degree turn in the black plastic Air Filter Element. The turn caused a decrease in HP.
The 99 has a smooth straight plastic connector from/to the Air Filter Element. I think this design change with the other improvements increased he 99 LS by 5 HP.
Adios,
Saile

Bushwack · August 2001

If that is true, then why hasn't the hp rating changed on the 3.8ltr SC engine? It has remained at 240 since the new model year.
.

saile · August 2001

It was just a theory...much like the planets revolve around the Earth???

QUESTION:
What would happen if you placed a supercharger on an LS??? Has anyone done this??? What did it COST??? Have you had any problems??? Yea...Yea...I know just buy a GS!

yurakm · August 2001

In addition to supercharger, GS have a different, more strong modification of transmission, different final axle ratio, and the engine itself also is modified: beefed up and have lesser compression. I believe, the programming of transmission shift pattern, ignition, etc. also are different.

In other words, the supercharger is not a simple bolt-on addition: the whole powertrain was modified.

PAman · August 2001

Yes, there are problems with the engine, transmission and the ECM. But there is a MUCH bigger problem.

If you modify an LS by putting an SC on a non-SC engine, you will virtually destroy the value of your car! When you attempt to trade it in, or sell it, most dealers won't touch it, or if they will, it will grossly reduce the book value of the car. You will also certainly void any remaining factory bumper-to-bumper or emissions warranties, and possibly violate laws in your state that would force an inspection station to fail an emissions or safety inspection. In addition, any prospective buyer will likely run away from an engine that has been messed with.

Good, low-mileage GS examples are relatively cheap right now. Chances are, the price differeence between your used LS and a newer, lower mileage GS is LESS than the cost of having a supercharger added.

One more thing...if you DO add the SC to your engine, go ahead and buy another spare engine from the junkyard. That's because after stomping on the accelerator on the now-modified engine a few times, you'll be bending a piston, rod or crankshaft.

Joe

jackjt · August 2001

You paint such a pretty picture:-)

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