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Toyota Highlander Accessories and Modifications

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Comments

  • awchan13awchan13 Member Posts: 44
    Are you using the stock rims on your highlander, or are you changing them to accomodate 255/65 R16's? Do you also have any pics of your new highlander with the spacers? I'm interested in giving my highlander a more agressive look, and better tires, just can't afford a new set of rims etc...
  • brad_22brad_22 Member Posts: 154
    I have 16x7 aftermarket wheels. With 255/65-16 tires, the range of tire widths that will fit are 7"-9". I believe the stock wheels are 16x6.5. Not sure if that would work. But check out any tire website for more info (i.e. Tirerack).

    As for pics, one of my roommates just got a digital camera, so I should have some posted soon.
  • reddevilfishreddevilfish Member Posts: 9
    Would any one know of where I can purchase seat covers for my Highlander with side airbags? Most seat covers for purchase state they cant be used with the side airbags(for safety reasons) I`m trying to protect the leather seats so any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
  • osoriobosoriob Member Posts: 44
    Please do post some pictures, I bet it's going to look very sharp

    Also, can you tell us what tire brand are you going to use?
  • 03bluestone03bluestone Member Posts: 47
    performanceproducts.com has custom vinyl or vinyl & fabric in their Toyota catalog fo HL in charcaol, navy, or beige. They are $250 a pair. They also have Cordura ones for $164 a pair, or genuine sheepskin for $481 a pair. You just must specify your vehicle has side air bags. I'm nor sure if they have pix on their web site, but you can request a catalog.
  • brad_22brad_22 Member Posts: 154
    I'm waiting for the new tires (Pirelli Scorpion S/Ts) to arrive before I take the pics. : )
  • stevesr1stevesr1 Member Posts: 28
    Landriver, Jmarouse,

    Thanks for the info on Speakers. I think I have figured out part of the Boom-Boom problem in addition to the speakers. I am convinced that the FM radio adds (synthesizes) bass to *attempt* to make up for what can't be transmitted over the air. This makes FM radio sound considerably worse than the CD player. The CD player is almost tolerable with the bass set at -3.

    You are also correct in that the existing speakers sound terrible when pushed in the bass region like cheap PC speakers. I complained to Toyota but all I got was a "thank you for your suggestions" respoonse. These guys are worthless. I was hoping there was a equalizer hidden in the radio software that could be accessed to correct this issue.

    The other issue with the bass response is that I believe that the designers neglected to account for the box radiation, the box being the door and the door panels acting as a speaker. I don't know how you would fix this except to stiffen the door panels especially on the inside. I don't know how much good Dynamat or similar products would do.

    As far as replacement speakers go I would look for ones that have the lowest electrical Q sometimes called Qes. The lower the Q the the more the amp has control over the cone movement to prevent excessive cone movement and increase damping. Low Q drivers require larger magnets, and bigger voice coils with larger gauge wire.

    Do either of you know what the model of JBL speakers are installed from the factory? This might provide an idea of where to start from.

    Steve
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Thanks for your insights.

    Interesting theory on the head unit enhancing the bass while in FM mode, it certainly does sound way more bassy when in FM mode than when playing CDs, though I assumed part of this is due to the ability of CDs to deliver higher frequencies than other audio reproduction media, but I don't know off the top of my head what FM's high-end cutoff frequency is.

    In reference to door panel radiation, after installing my speakers, I re-removed the plastic door panel to better analyze the source of the harsh boomy sound I was experiencing. I noticed that most of the undesirable sound was emaninating not from the speaker but from the large hole on the sheetmetal door panel. I tried pressing a phone book against this hole and this seemed to improve the sound noticeably. I was all set to purchase some particle board to cover the hole when I discovered that re-installing the plastic door panel achieved the same affect, so my conclusion is that the particle board modification wouldn't have done much of anything. I also stuffed a bunch of felt-like 3/4" thick carpet padding inside the door cavity, but this had little if any affect (there's something called poly-fill that I didn't have on hand to experiment with, but my hunch was that this wouldn't have significantly affected the problem). I too was thinking about applying dynamat, but concluded that it would not have helped after pressing hard against the sheetmetal door panel with a broom handle to subdue any resonances (which is what I assume dynamat does) and still not experiencing any significant sound improvement. Of course my problem may not be the same as yours; what I'm experiencing is a harsh sound whenever percussion occurs which was introduced when the amp was upgraded. I suspect that the typical solution is to install a subwoofer which will more gracefully handle low frequencies at moderate to high volume levels.

    I agree with the low Q recommendation! My speakers sound like they exhibit a boomy resonance which may be responsible for the harsh boomy quality I'm experiencing. I made the mistake of not auditioning the speakers I purchased; I may have detected this strong resonance if I had. For the fun of it (instead of installing a subwoofer) I'm in the process of desinging an equalization filter that will compensate for the frequency peaking in the response that I measured in the car with a test CD and a sound level meter (I saw significant frequency humps at 43Hz and 115 Hz); at the same time I will amplify the frequencies below 43Hz at which the response falls off rapidly; we'll see if this reduces the boomyness and enriches the low end.

    When I removed the factory speakers I checked the JBL web site but the speakers didn't match any in their line-up (they looked way-cheaper than anything in their line-up); I strongly suspect that these are not available at retail but only for applications such as factory sound systems. However their magnet size and configuration was very similar to their GTO series 6-1/2" speakers (which believe it or not were the speakers that I purchased and installed in the Highlander; the fronts are GTO 605C component speakers, and the rears are GTO 625 coaxial speakers, and they sound somewhat better than the factory speakers, so these are a good starting point; these are also the ones that, in combination with my new amp, are exhibiting the harsh boomy quality, so I certainly wouldn't recommend them unless if you were to get a subwoofer, in which case I'd recommend the 605Cs which have almost no distortion in the highs with my amp (Alpine MRV-F340; highly recommended) and sound somewhat heavenly, but I wouldn't recommend the 625s which just don't sound great at all).
  • stevesr1stevesr1 Member Posts: 28
    I am looking for a factory center console to put in my 2001 grey interior Highlander.

    If you have a 2002/3 and would like the walk-through aisle we could arrange a trade. These are all just bolt-in plastic pieces for the most part.

    I would also appreciate it if anyone could let me know of any of these that might have been totaled and sitting in a salvage yard somewhere.

    I can best be reached at:

    slund347 "at" ieee "dot" org <-- some assembly required due to SPAM prevention!

    Thanks,

    Steve
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Since the subject of center console retrofitting came up, I'd like to add an addendum to my post "Re: 2002 console in 2001 model," Sep 19, 2002 in this discussion group.

    I had completed all the steps referenced in the post except for the installation of the replacement for the panel in the driver's seat that houses the cup holders in 2001 Highlanders as this replacement panel had to be backordered from Japan. I finally got around to installing it a couple of weeks ago and discovered that there are a couple of sheetmetal assemblies (one approx. 2"x6", the other approx. 1/2"x1") welded onto the seat frame that accommodate mounting support for the cupholders and for securing the panel to the seat that are only present in 2001 Highlanders and not 2002 highlanders. These two assemblies interfere with the corresponding 2002 panel which has a completely different scheme for being secured to the seat. To remove the assemblies I had to employ the use of a saber saw with a fine-toothed blade appropriate for cutting metal, and a grinder attachment for a drill, to remove these two assemblies.

    Once again, if you're comfortable with these types of tools, I don't see this as a significant deterrent for installing a 2002-style center console.

    One other thing, if a 2001 Highlander owner and a 2002 or later Highlander owner decide to swap console configurations (i.e., transfer the console from the 2002 or later Highlander to the 2001 Highlander), then note the following:

    1. The carpets will need to be swapped as well, as 2002 or later Highlanders have holes in the carpet for mounting brackets for the console, which would be unsightly if the console was removed. This necessitates removal of all seats and plastic panels along the periphery of the carpet, as well as most of the plastic panels in the cargo area of the vehicle (you wouldn't think so, but trust me, it does).

    2. The two sheetmetal assemblies in the driver's seat referenced above, nor the plastic panel housing the cup holders, will need to be swapped. Instead, the entire driver's seats can be swapped, and this would by far be the easiest way to go about it.
  • dohc97dohc97 Member Posts: 20
    My wife will be getting a HL in a month's time. I am already in the process of collecting the necessary parts to replace the sound system. I already have a clarion head unit, a PPI 6 channel amp mounted in a sub box for 2 10 inch subs. For those who have replaced the front speakers, what is the maximum speaker depth I can I fit inside the front doors?

    Thanks..
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    It is at least 2-1/16" as this is the spec for the speakers I installed in the front and they fit without incident.
  • dohc97dohc97 Member Posts: 20
    Landdriver,

    thanks for the response.

    I am looking at the a/d/s 346is component speakers to put in the HL. It has a mounting depth of 2-7/16. Do you think it will fit in?

    Thanks again..
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    I couldn't say for sure -- there seemed to be a little extra room, but I didn't check to see how much (BTW this check needs to be done with the window DOWN). Now that I think about it a little more, I'd say that they will almost for sure fit, if not in the existing black plastic cylindrical housing without modification, then with a couple of spacers added to this housing.
  • pamindianapamindiana Member Posts: 2
    the speakers I had in my Rav4 were so terrible, that even the HL's sound a little better, but not what should be expected even...
  • silverltdsilverltd Member Posts: 18
    I just had my dealer install the 2002/2003 console in my 2001 silver Highlander Limited. They said that it was the first and last time they would do the installation.

    I paid approximately $1400 for the work---based on what you paid for parts alone ($1129), I didn't do too badly (I'm definitely not mechanical enough to do it myself).

    Like you, I think it was definitely worth the cost, I love the way it looks and "finishes" my Highlander.

    Thanks for all of the information you provided about how the work is done, now I better understand what my dealership had to do to install the console.

    Happy New Year!
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Good to hear that someone else besides me appreciates the aesthetics and prestiege associated with a 2002-style console (sounds like a good price to me too)! (Proof positive to the rest of you guys that I wasn't just making it up to get attention.) Now we can together bear the esteemed title of "center console expert" in this discussion group. (It does give the interior a higher-class feel, doesn't it? We can both confidently hold our heads just a bit higher on the freeway now...)
  • stuartcstuartc Member Posts: 33
    Hi all:

    I have two fairly big (95lb each),older, non-athletic dogs. To make it easier for them to get into the Highlander, I was thinking of removing one of the 2nd row seats so that they would have a bigger floor section to jump on to when the jump into the car. I'm then hoping that it will be easy for them to jump from the bigger floor into the back section of the Highlander.

    Anyone have any thoughts on this ? Is it easy to remove one of the 2nd row seats ? Thanks in advance.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    I removed the rear seats once and don't see any problem with this -- there are just four bolts securing each seat to the floorboard (you'll have to remove the plastic caps covering the two front bolts, then fold the seat down and un-snap the carpet to gain access to the two rear bolts).
  • silverltdsilverltd Member Posts: 18
    I agree with you 100%, the 2002-style center console definitely adds a more "high-class feel" to the interior. For me, it "finishes" the interior---and it was a lot cheaper than going out and buying a new Highlander just for the center console! Now when I get into my Highlander I feel like I have a whole new SUV.

    Happy New Year.
  • stuartcstuartc Member Posts: 33
    landdriver, thanks much for the reply. It sounds like it's pretty easy. I haven't bought the Highlander yet, but this really helps in my decision. (I'm in the process of negotiating price). Thanks again.
  • hughp1hughp1 Member Posts: 9
    I am looking for someone who has replaced the OEM aluminum/sport wheels that come on the Highlander 4 wheel drive or V-6 models. We bought a 2002, 4 cyl FWD off the lot that comes with the base wheel. Not too bad looking but would like to upgrade. If anyone knows of somewone who has upgraded and has their OEM wheels sitting in the garage or basement that would like to pick up a C-Note for them I would appreciate the information. If they lived in the Midwest it would even be better, I could possibly pick them up in person and the hassel of shipping would be a non issue.
  • dohc97dohc97 Member Posts: 20
    We are just awaiting for our v6 awd HL to come in. I am going to be replacing the wheels/tires as soon as I get it. How much are you willing to pay for an almost zero mile set? Also, I am from MD.

    Please email me back at dohc97@hotmail.com.
  • eenglisheenglish Member Posts: 22
    I couldn't take the stock speakers any longer and Santa brought me some new ones.

    I didn't want to invest tons of money to replace the deck, subs, component speakers, etc, plus Santa said I wan't THAT good this year.

    I used Crutchfield (www.crutchfield.com) for research. I was looking for not too expensive, efficient speakers that would give a good upgrade.

    I ended up with replacing all 4 with Pioneer TS-G1647's which are rated at
    2-30 RMS
    150 peak
    35-22K
    92 DB sensitivity
    2-way coaxial
    These are efficient and have a good low end spec.

    These turned out to be close to the cheapest they had that fit, but still had decent specs.
    They were $50/pr at Crutchfield but I got them on sale at $46/pr at BestBuy (reg $50/pr).
    I also didn't want to deal with the install so I had BestBuy install them as well for $69 for all 4.
    I also got an extended 4 year warrantee at $19.95, which I usually don't do but the salesman gave me a hint to only get the guarantee for 2 speakers and if there's a failure, then just say it's for whatever one fails.
    So for about $180 I got 4 speakers installed with a 4 year guarantee, including reinstall.

    The improvement was very noticeable. The treble is crisp and the boomy base is gone.
    At pretty loud volumes there didn't seem to be any speaker distortion or amp clipping.
    I used to have the treble cranked at +5 and now I use 0 or +1. I use +1 or +2 for bass.
    I also set the fader a bit to the rear so I can then turn the volume up a bit and get more bass from the back. The bass is pretty good but not super but they are only 6 1/2"

    The speakers they took out were a joke. They were lightweight single hard plastic cones. They looked like the kind you see in a cheap boom box. They didn't even have a 'whizzer cone' to improve the treble. The speakers in my wife's 96 Camry were even better.
    The bean counter who picked these speakers should be fired. For an extra $20-30 total, they could have put in decent speakers

    The installer said that he thought that the amp put out about 20 watts/channel.

    If you are an audiophile or are into earthquake rap, these speakers may not fit the bill but it does seem that the speakers are the weak link and you can get a major improvement with just changing the speakers.
  • dohc97dohc97 Member Posts: 20
    how big are the rear door speakers? I already have a replacement for the front, an Inifnity 60.5cs.
  • eenglisheenglish Member Posts: 22
    I used the same speakers all around. The installer said that there was a bit more depth available in the rear.
    When I checked them after the install before leaving, the fronts rattled against the glass when you shut the doors with the windows down and he needed to make an adjustment. The fronts were fine.
    I used to have a Jeep Grand Cherokee which had Infinity speakers and they were great.
    The styling and the speakers was the only thing great about the Jeep.
  • jjorgensen1jjorgensen1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,

    I've recently joined the Highlander club (new 2002 v6 awd) and this Town Hall and am hoping someone can answer a question for me. I want to remove the luggage rack cross bars because I have a Yakima rack with a slew of gear attachments. For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to get them out of the sliding tracks. Any guidance would really be appreciated - thanks. Sorry if this question has been posted already - I looked but did not see it.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    Welcome to the club!

    The post Instructions - Roof Rack Cross Bar Removal, May 29, 2002, in this discussion group explains how to do it.
  • jjorgensen1jjorgensen1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the pointer to the previous post - it is exactly what I was hoping to find.
  • jrfierojrfiero Member Posts: 123
    RE #328 of 333 Speaker upgrade experiences by eenglish Dec 31, 2002 (01:10 pm)
    I couldn't take the stock speakers any longer and Santa brought me some new ones. ...

    Which stock stereo do you have?
  • dougweaverdougweaver Member Posts: 48
    I saw a picture of a HL with a luggage carrier that looked really sharp. Anyone have a luggage carrier for there HL that they are really happy with. Good looks plus practical is what I am looking for. Thanks dpw
  • eenglisheenglish Member Posts: 22
    I'm just using the stock Toyota non-limited radio/tape/CD.
    The stock speakers are Pioneer C3B04.
    I did a google search but didn't find this speaker anywhere.
    I'm not surprised, since nobody in their right mind would actually buy these speakers (except Toyota).
    It's probably some OEM speaker specifically for Toyota.
    With the new speakers and the midrange enabled, using the trick that several have posted to turn on the midrange equalization, the sytem now sounds quite good.
    Unless you are really into car audio, I don't see a need to do any upgrades other than the speakers, to get pretty decent sound.
    It looks like you need to get the Limited to get the upgraded JBL system. However, the description looks like it mentions JBL for the deck. I wouldn't be surprised if they cut corners on the speakers here aswell.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    I have the "premium JBL" sound system and it does not live up to its auspicious sounding title in my opinion, and others have echoed similar sentiments (posts 5776 and 3735 in discussion Toyota Highlander), while some like it (see post 5170 in discussion Toyota Highlander). The speakers have the JBL label but their model numbers do not appear on the JBL product lineup on JBL's website; as you concluded for the Pioneers I suspect these JBLs are manufactured specifically for factory sound systems (they have paper surrounds, and even the cheapest speakers on the JBL website have rubber surrounds).
  • nimrod99nimrod99 Member Posts: 343
    can anyone make a recommendation on what make of tow hitch is best for a V6 HL?
    Is the factory hitch preferred?

    Thanks
  • dano42dano42 Member Posts: 11
    nimrod99, I am also interested in a hitch. Have looked at both Hidden Hitch and Draw-tight. The Draw-tight is constucted of round tube but I am not sure what it looks like installed.

    Please keep me posted on brand you select, it's looks, and how much you paid.

    Thanks!
  • megawattbluesmegawattblues Member Posts: 66
    Check out etrailer.com for some comparisons.

    I wanted a class 3 (2" receiver) as opposed to a class 2 (1-1/4" receiver), to be used mainly for a 3 or 4 bike carrier.

    I went with the Hidden Hitch #70777. It's pretty heavy-duty - weighs something like 50 lbs. It's pretty easy to put in, once you finesse it around the muffler. Looks ok with the rubber Toyota-logo cap in place when not in use.

    Not sure just what the factory hitch is. My dealer wanted well over $300 to sell me a Draw-Tite that should go for about $100.

    I wound up getting mine locally for less than price + shipping of the on-line places.
  • oldstonehouseoldstonehouse Member Posts: 1
    Is there anyway to remove all of the contact stickers on the sun visor without damaging the visor. I was cautioned against attempting this by the dealer.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    "1. I take ir that the plastic trim around the shift lever needs to be replaced. I looked at an '03 this past week and these trim pieces are different shapes. BTW, I have a Limited with the woodgrain trim."

    That's correct, it'll need to be replaced as well.

    "2. Are the holes aready in the floor of the cabin for the mounting brackets for the console? I am assuming that these are weld-nuts and not sheet metal screws."

    They are weld-nuts; oddly, mounting holes existed for the middle and rear brackets, but not for the front bracket, so I ascertained the location of the front holes by mounting the bracket on the console and setting the console in position (the hole locations were approximately halfway up a 1" to 2" slope in the sheetmetal if I recall correctly. I drilled slightly undersized holes and forced the bolts through to effectively self-tap; another approach would be to drill regular-size holes and secure nuts to the bolts from the underside of the vehicle.

    "3. After removing the extra mounting brackets on the side of the driver's seat did you have to fashion new ones to mount the new side cover?"

    No, mounting holes for the 2002 side cover already existed under the mounting brackets in the seat frame, so that will make it a little easier for you; one of these sheetmetal assemblies was maybe 3" by 4", and the other was a small tab perhaps 1/2" by 1"; I used a saber saw and a grinding wheel attachment for my drill to remove these assemblies that were welded to the seat frame (the U.S. 2001 consoleless Highlander came AFTER the pre-2001 Japanese version of the Highlander which HAD the console, so these sheetmetal assemblies were afterthoughts to accommodate a seat side cover with cup holders).

    "4. Could I trouble you to send me a complete list of parts required for the modification? I will be mail ordering my parts and would like to get it right the first time! Copies of your packing lists would suffice."

    Sure; better yet, I'll post the list here for anyone else who may some day be able to use the information:

    Qty Part Number Description Price Each

    1 58821-48020-A0 PANEL, CON 142.73
    1 55420-48010-E0 PANEL ASSY 95.45
    1 55620-48020-E0 HOLDER [non-permissible content removed] 124.61
    1 58801-48040-A0 BOX S/A, C 96.66
    2 90339-10014-A0 CAP 2.66
    1 58834-48020-A0 COVER, CON 89.90
    1 58912-48030-A0 BOX, RR CO 38.86
    1 58916-48020 MAT, BOX B 4.02
    1 58921-48030-A0 PANEL, RR 162.16
    1 58923-48010-A0 PANEL, CON 40.58
    1 58995-48020 BRACKET, C 22.63
    1 58996-48020 BRACKET, C 19.43
    1 58997-48020 BRACKET, C 24.70
    1 74102-48030-E0 BOX S/A, F 75.50
    1 74130-22160-A0 RECEPTACLE 70.18
    1 * 71862-48020-A0 SHIELD, FR 71.34
    6 90105-06228 BOLT,WASHE 1.32
    2 93530-54010 SCREW, TAP 1.32
    2 90159-50287 SCREW,W/WA 1.52
    28 90080-16031 SCREW,TAPP 1.04

    * Part number for driver's seat side cover for manual driver's seat; for the power driver's seat I THINK the part number is 71862-48030-A0 if memory serves me right but I'm not positive; check to make sure.

    The beige parts are denoted with the A0 suffix and the wood grain parts are denoted with the E0 suffix; since your Highlander has a different color scheme the part numbers will be the same but the suffixes will be different (I think C0 denotes charcoal-colored (gray) parts).

    Good luck; let me know if you have any more questions!
  • 03bluestone03bluestone Member Posts: 47
    I also would like to know how to safely remove those bright stickers on the visor - in particular the ones that face outside when the visor is in use! Also why don't the wipers cycle when one pulls the washer lever - like they did on my RAV4?
  • wyeastwyeast Member Posts: 22
    Noticed your post regarding getting the roof rack cross bars off. In it, you mentioned creating a tool to work the snap-ins free inside the rear plastic pieces. Would you mind posting how you made your tool? I was looking at those pieces today and what I have in my garage and was not seeing anything that would work. Sincere thanks for any info you can provide.
  • stevesr1stevesr1 Member Posts: 28
    I happened to have a tool made from an old industrial darning needle that had a hook in the bottom of it and a screw driver type handle. I originally tried to make one from an old hacksaw blade but they wouldn't take the sharp 90 degree bend without breaking. I would try making one out of a *really cheap* flat blade screw driver and bend the tip over 90 degrees. The *really cheap* part is so that it won't be hardened and just break when you try to bend it. Alternately you could use some thin flat cold rolled with a small hook in the end of it.

    Good Luck,

    steve
  • wyeastwyeast Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the response but it has given me two last questions and then I'll be having at it. Does the tool need to have a hook? If so, what is under the cover to hook on to? Guess I was assuming that the snaps popped straight out once you worked the tool under the cover. Can't tell you how glad I am that you have been through this.
  • dohc97dohc97 Member Posts: 20
    We just have our HL delivered 3 days ago. I have a JL Audio 300/4 amp and an Infinity Kappa 60.5 for the front already sitting in the house. I can not find any info in either crutchfield.com or sounddomain.com on what speakers will fit in the back door. I want to get the Infinity Kappa 62.5i since I already have the Kappas for the front door. The 62.5i have a mounting depth of 2 1/8. Will this fit in the rear doors. BTW, I have called Crutchfield and they have nothing on the HL yet. Also, sounddomain.com is saying that a 4 1/2 inch will fit in the back(?).
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    According to Infinity's web site (www.infinitysystems.com) the 62.5i's will fit in the rear.

    (According to www.crutchfield.com the Infinity Kappa 652.5i (6-3/4") will fit in the rear; I have no idea where sounddomain.com gets the idea that 4-1/2" speakers will fit in the rear.)
  • phandyphandy Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had the rearview mirror replaced with the autodimming type? I mainly want one in order to have the outside temperature displayed. The kind Toyota sells only shows the direction you are going. Although I would not be installing it myself, I wonder how complicated these are to install. (I have already tried the $10 kind of thermometer you stick on and it was not accurate)
  • brad_22brad_22 Member Posts: 154
    You can definitely do it yourself if you've got the time and motivation. The instructions they provide are easy to follow, provided that you don't mind taking apart the interior plastic molding. : )
  • stevesr1stevesr1 Member Posts: 28
    I guess that I should be more careful in my usage of the word "hook". All that you really need is something that will allow you to pull the plastic straight out to release the interior latch. Anything with a small "L" shaped profile should work.

    Good Luck,

    Steve
  • stevesr1stevesr1 Member Posts: 28
    I have a 2001 V6 Limited Highlander with the standard factory mud flaps. I have noticed that they don't do a very good job of keeping the mud and rocks kicked up by the tires from hitting the side of the vehicle. Even driving slowly down a gravel road I am subjected to the "tinkle, tinkle, tinkle" sound of gravel hitting the side of the vehicle.

    do any of you have any suggestions for modifications or aftermarket products that would provide better protection?

    Thanks,

    Steve
  • wyeastwyeast Member Posts: 22
    Meant to post a message for several days now thanking you for the information about how to remove the cross bars. I got it done last weekend without any problems. Without the info you posted, I'm sure I would have been buying at least 1 new cover. Thanks again for sharing your experience.
  • dano42dano42 Member Posts: 11
    brad 22: How long did it take to install the mirror? Where did you purchase it? I found one with compass and temperature for $177 on the internet. Have not purchased yet but I am strongly considering.

    Thanks.
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