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As for pics, one of my roommates just got a digital camera, so I should have some posted soon.
Also, can you tell us what tire brand are you going to use?
Thanks for the info on Speakers. I think I have figured out part of the Boom-Boom problem in addition to the speakers. I am convinced that the FM radio adds (synthesizes) bass to *attempt* to make up for what can't be transmitted over the air. This makes FM radio sound considerably worse than the CD player. The CD player is almost tolerable with the bass set at -3.
You are also correct in that the existing speakers sound terrible when pushed in the bass region like cheap PC speakers. I complained to Toyota but all I got was a "thank you for your suggestions" respoonse. These guys are worthless. I was hoping there was a equalizer hidden in the radio software that could be accessed to correct this issue.
The other issue with the bass response is that I believe that the designers neglected to account for the box radiation, the box being the door and the door panels acting as a speaker. I don't know how you would fix this except to stiffen the door panels especially on the inside. I don't know how much good Dynamat or similar products would do.
As far as replacement speakers go I would look for ones that have the lowest electrical Q sometimes called Qes. The lower the Q the the more the amp has control over the cone movement to prevent excessive cone movement and increase damping. Low Q drivers require larger magnets, and bigger voice coils with larger gauge wire.
Do either of you know what the model of JBL speakers are installed from the factory? This might provide an idea of where to start from.
Steve
Interesting theory on the head unit enhancing the bass while in FM mode, it certainly does sound way more bassy when in FM mode than when playing CDs, though I assumed part of this is due to the ability of CDs to deliver higher frequencies than other audio reproduction media, but I don't know off the top of my head what FM's high-end cutoff frequency is.
In reference to door panel radiation, after installing my speakers, I re-removed the plastic door panel to better analyze the source of the harsh boomy sound I was experiencing. I noticed that most of the undesirable sound was emaninating not from the speaker but from the large hole on the sheetmetal door panel. I tried pressing a phone book against this hole and this seemed to improve the sound noticeably. I was all set to purchase some particle board to cover the hole when I discovered that re-installing the plastic door panel achieved the same affect, so my conclusion is that the particle board modification wouldn't have done much of anything. I also stuffed a bunch of felt-like 3/4" thick carpet padding inside the door cavity, but this had little if any affect (there's something called poly-fill that I didn't have on hand to experiment with, but my hunch was that this wouldn't have significantly affected the problem). I too was thinking about applying dynamat, but concluded that it would not have helped after pressing hard against the sheetmetal door panel with a broom handle to subdue any resonances (which is what I assume dynamat does) and still not experiencing any significant sound improvement. Of course my problem may not be the same as yours; what I'm experiencing is a harsh sound whenever percussion occurs which was introduced when the amp was upgraded. I suspect that the typical solution is to install a subwoofer which will more gracefully handle low frequencies at moderate to high volume levels.
I agree with the low Q recommendation! My speakers sound like they exhibit a boomy resonance which may be responsible for the harsh boomy quality I'm experiencing. I made the mistake of not auditioning the speakers I purchased; I may have detected this strong resonance if I had. For the fun of it (instead of installing a subwoofer) I'm in the process of desinging an equalization filter that will compensate for the frequency peaking in the response that I measured in the car with a test CD and a sound level meter (I saw significant frequency humps at 43Hz and 115 Hz); at the same time I will amplify the frequencies below 43Hz at which the response falls off rapidly; we'll see if this reduces the boomyness and enriches the low end.
When I removed the factory speakers I checked the JBL web site but the speakers didn't match any in their line-up (they looked way-cheaper than anything in their line-up); I strongly suspect that these are not available at retail but only for applications such as factory sound systems. However their magnet size and configuration was very similar to their GTO series 6-1/2" speakers (which believe it or not were the speakers that I purchased and installed in the Highlander; the fronts are GTO 605C component speakers, and the rears are GTO 625 coaxial speakers, and they sound somewhat better than the factory speakers, so these are a good starting point; these are also the ones that, in combination with my new amp, are exhibiting the harsh boomy quality, so I certainly wouldn't recommend them unless if you were to get a subwoofer, in which case I'd recommend the 605Cs which have almost no distortion in the highs with my amp (Alpine MRV-F340; highly recommended) and sound somewhat heavenly, but I wouldn't recommend the 625s which just don't sound great at all).
If you have a 2002/3 and would like the walk-through aisle we could arrange a trade. These are all just bolt-in plastic pieces for the most part.
I would also appreciate it if anyone could let me know of any of these that might have been totaled and sitting in a salvage yard somewhere.
I can best be reached at:
slund347 "at" ieee "dot" org <-- some assembly required due to SPAM prevention!
Thanks,
Steve
I had completed all the steps referenced in the post except for the installation of the replacement for the panel in the driver's seat that houses the cup holders in 2001 Highlanders as this replacement panel had to be backordered from Japan. I finally got around to installing it a couple of weeks ago and discovered that there are a couple of sheetmetal assemblies (one approx. 2"x6", the other approx. 1/2"x1") welded onto the seat frame that accommodate mounting support for the cupholders and for securing the panel to the seat that are only present in 2001 Highlanders and not 2002 highlanders. These two assemblies interfere with the corresponding 2002 panel which has a completely different scheme for being secured to the seat. To remove the assemblies I had to employ the use of a saber saw with a fine-toothed blade appropriate for cutting metal, and a grinder attachment for a drill, to remove these two assemblies.
Once again, if you're comfortable with these types of tools, I don't see this as a significant deterrent for installing a 2002-style center console.
One other thing, if a 2001 Highlander owner and a 2002 or later Highlander owner decide to swap console configurations (i.e., transfer the console from the 2002 or later Highlander to the 2001 Highlander), then note the following:
1. The carpets will need to be swapped as well, as 2002 or later Highlanders have holes in the carpet for mounting brackets for the console, which would be unsightly if the console was removed. This necessitates removal of all seats and plastic panels along the periphery of the carpet, as well as most of the plastic panels in the cargo area of the vehicle (you wouldn't think so, but trust me, it does).
2. The two sheetmetal assemblies in the driver's seat referenced above, nor the plastic panel housing the cup holders, will need to be swapped. Instead, the entire driver's seats can be swapped, and this would by far be the easiest way to go about it.
Thanks..
thanks for the response.
I am looking at the a/d/s 346is component speakers to put in the HL. It has a mounting depth of 2-7/16. Do you think it will fit in?
Thanks again..
I paid approximately $1400 for the work---based on what you paid for parts alone ($1129), I didn't do too badly (I'm definitely not mechanical enough to do it myself).
Like you, I think it was definitely worth the cost, I love the way it looks and "finishes" my Highlander.
Thanks for all of the information you provided about how the work is done, now I better understand what my dealership had to do to install the console.
Happy New Year!
I have two fairly big (95lb each),older, non-athletic dogs. To make it easier for them to get into the Highlander, I was thinking of removing one of the 2nd row seats so that they would have a bigger floor section to jump on to when the jump into the car. I'm then hoping that it will be easy for them to jump from the bigger floor into the back section of the Highlander.
Anyone have any thoughts on this ? Is it easy to remove one of the 2nd row seats ? Thanks in advance.
Happy New Year.
Please email me back at dohc97@hotmail.com.
I didn't want to invest tons of money to replace the deck, subs, component speakers, etc, plus Santa said I wan't THAT good this year.
I used Crutchfield (www.crutchfield.com) for research. I was looking for not too expensive, efficient speakers that would give a good upgrade.
I ended up with replacing all 4 with Pioneer TS-G1647's which are rated at
2-30 RMS
150 peak
35-22K
92 DB sensitivity
2-way coaxial
These are efficient and have a good low end spec.
These turned out to be close to the cheapest they had that fit, but still had decent specs.
They were $50/pr at Crutchfield but I got them on sale at $46/pr at BestBuy (reg $50/pr).
I also didn't want to deal with the install so I had BestBuy install them as well for $69 for all 4.
I also got an extended 4 year warrantee at $19.95, which I usually don't do but the salesman gave me a hint to only get the guarantee for 2 speakers and if there's a failure, then just say it's for whatever one fails.
So for about $180 I got 4 speakers installed with a 4 year guarantee, including reinstall.
The improvement was very noticeable. The treble is crisp and the boomy base is gone.
At pretty loud volumes there didn't seem to be any speaker distortion or amp clipping.
I used to have the treble cranked at +5 and now I use 0 or +1. I use +1 or +2 for bass.
I also set the fader a bit to the rear so I can then turn the volume up a bit and get more bass from the back. The bass is pretty good but not super but they are only 6 1/2"
The speakers they took out were a joke. They were lightweight single hard plastic cones. They looked like the kind you see in a cheap boom box. They didn't even have a 'whizzer cone' to improve the treble. The speakers in my wife's 96 Camry were even better.
The bean counter who picked these speakers should be fired. For an extra $20-30 total, they could have put in decent speakers
The installer said that he thought that the amp put out about 20 watts/channel.
If you are an audiophile or are into earthquake rap, these speakers may not fit the bill but it does seem that the speakers are the weak link and you can get a major improvement with just changing the speakers.
When I checked them after the install before leaving, the fronts rattled against the glass when you shut the doors with the windows down and he needed to make an adjustment. The fronts were fine.
I used to have a Jeep Grand Cherokee which had Infinity speakers and they were great.
The styling and the speakers was the only thing great about the Jeep.
I've recently joined the Highlander club (new 2002 v6 awd) and this Town Hall and am hoping someone can answer a question for me. I want to remove the luggage rack cross bars because I have a Yakima rack with a slew of gear attachments. For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to get them out of the sliding tracks. Any guidance would really be appreciated - thanks. Sorry if this question has been posted already - I looked but did not see it.
The post Instructions - Roof Rack Cross Bar Removal, May 29, 2002, in this discussion group explains how to do it.
I couldn't take the stock speakers any longer and Santa brought me some new ones. ...
Which stock stereo do you have?
The stock speakers are Pioneer C3B04.
I did a google search but didn't find this speaker anywhere.
I'm not surprised, since nobody in their right mind would actually buy these speakers (except Toyota).
It's probably some OEM speaker specifically for Toyota.
With the new speakers and the midrange enabled, using the trick that several have posted to turn on the midrange equalization, the sytem now sounds quite good.
Unless you are really into car audio, I don't see a need to do any upgrades other than the speakers, to get pretty decent sound.
It looks like you need to get the Limited to get the upgraded JBL system. However, the description looks like it mentions JBL for the deck. I wouldn't be surprised if they cut corners on the speakers here aswell.
Is the factory hitch preferred?
Thanks
Please keep me posted on brand you select, it's looks, and how much you paid.
Thanks!
I wanted a class 3 (2" receiver) as opposed to a class 2 (1-1/4" receiver), to be used mainly for a 3 or 4 bike carrier.
I went with the Hidden Hitch #70777. It's pretty heavy-duty - weighs something like 50 lbs. It's pretty easy to put in, once you finesse it around the muffler. Looks ok with the rubber Toyota-logo cap in place when not in use.
Not sure just what the factory hitch is. My dealer wanted well over $300 to sell me a Draw-Tite that should go for about $100.
I wound up getting mine locally for less than price + shipping of the on-line places.
That's correct, it'll need to be replaced as well.
"2. Are the holes aready in the floor of the cabin for the mounting brackets for the console? I am assuming that these are weld-nuts and not sheet metal screws."
They are weld-nuts; oddly, mounting holes existed for the middle and rear brackets, but not for the front bracket, so I ascertained the location of the front holes by mounting the bracket on the console and setting the console in position (the hole locations were approximately halfway up a 1" to 2" slope in the sheetmetal if I recall correctly. I drilled slightly undersized holes and forced the bolts through to effectively self-tap; another approach would be to drill regular-size holes and secure nuts to the bolts from the underside of the vehicle.
"3. After removing the extra mounting brackets on the side of the driver's seat did you have to fashion new ones to mount the new side cover?"
No, mounting holes for the 2002 side cover already existed under the mounting brackets in the seat frame, so that will make it a little easier for you; one of these sheetmetal assemblies was maybe 3" by 4", and the other was a small tab perhaps 1/2" by 1"; I used a saber saw and a grinding wheel attachment for my drill to remove these assemblies that were welded to the seat frame (the U.S. 2001 consoleless Highlander came AFTER the pre-2001 Japanese version of the Highlander which HAD the console, so these sheetmetal assemblies were afterthoughts to accommodate a seat side cover with cup holders).
"4. Could I trouble you to send me a complete list of parts required for the modification? I will be mail ordering my parts and would like to get it right the first time! Copies of your packing lists would suffice."
Sure; better yet, I'll post the list here for anyone else who may some day be able to use the information:
Qty Part Number Description Price Each
1 58821-48020-A0 PANEL, CON 142.73
1 55420-48010-E0 PANEL ASSY 95.45
1 55620-48020-E0 HOLDER [non-permissible content removed] 124.61
1 58801-48040-A0 BOX S/A, C 96.66
2 90339-10014-A0 CAP 2.66
1 58834-48020-A0 COVER, CON 89.90
1 58912-48030-A0 BOX, RR CO 38.86
1 58916-48020 MAT, BOX B 4.02
1 58921-48030-A0 PANEL, RR 162.16
1 58923-48010-A0 PANEL, CON 40.58
1 58995-48020 BRACKET, C 22.63
1 58996-48020 BRACKET, C 19.43
1 58997-48020 BRACKET, C 24.70
1 74102-48030-E0 BOX S/A, F 75.50
1 74130-22160-A0 RECEPTACLE 70.18
1 * 71862-48020-A0 SHIELD, FR 71.34
6 90105-06228 BOLT,WASHE 1.32
2 93530-54010 SCREW, TAP 1.32
2 90159-50287 SCREW,W/WA 1.52
28 90080-16031 SCREW,TAPP 1.04
* Part number for driver's seat side cover for manual driver's seat; for the power driver's seat I THINK the part number is 71862-48030-A0 if memory serves me right but I'm not positive; check to make sure.
The beige parts are denoted with the A0 suffix and the wood grain parts are denoted with the E0 suffix; since your Highlander has a different color scheme the part numbers will be the same but the suffixes will be different (I think C0 denotes charcoal-colored (gray) parts).
Good luck; let me know if you have any more questions!
Good Luck,
steve
(According to www.crutchfield.com the Infinity Kappa 652.5i (6-3/4") will fit in the rear; I have no idea where sounddomain.com gets the idea that 4-1/2" speakers will fit in the rear.)
Good Luck,
Steve
do any of you have any suggestions for modifications or aftermarket products that would provide better protection?
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks.