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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • hlfanhlfan Member Posts: 46
    I doubt the reset to 0 upon opening the fuel gage is momentarily. After filling up, I can see the avg change quickly depending on the drive, at the end of a tank, it takes longer to change, which implies a bigger sample space.

    After 1200 miles I had around 17.5 on the 4WD V6. My commute is quite hilly though. If I do more surface streets, and less freeway, it goes down to 16. This is a lot lower than I expected, but I must admit I do 80 mph over rolling hills often, and it does a lot better if I stick to 75. Also notice on a long flat commute I got 22. So I think climbing has alot to do with it, which makes sense given the incresed weight of the 4WD.
  • jackmick656jackmick656 Member Posts: 61
    At least the HL is on the bottom of the list with the fewest complaints. I own a 2003 HL V6 and I never had a mechanical failure. The vehicle has 8000 miles on the OD and running stronger than new. So if the HL made the Lemon List, the list should be a lot longer than the one being shown.
  • jackmick656jackmick656 Member Posts: 61
    My 2003 HL V6 gets 23.8 MPG on the hwy., and 19.4 mpg mixed. I live in the low desert of So. Cal., so I do not have to drive in any heavy traffic.
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    I have tried opening the gas cap a few times to reset the AVG mpg. This as I said before just defaults to the last trip. HOWEVER,if I actually put gasoline in the tank--either fill it up--or just a few gallons (litres here)THEN the AVG. fuel comsumption does start to compute from that point. There must be a type of connection to the computer that senses when the fuel level has been increased in the tank. Anyway, I believe you are correct. Happy New Year from Canada
  • nimrod99nimrod99 Member Posts: 343
    In my 2003 Ltd - the ave mpg reset is achieved by holding the "info" button in for a few seconds.
    Same procedure applies for the trip counters on the odometer.
    There is no mention in my owners manual about automatic fuel level sensors and fuel door resets?

    Why couldn't Toyota have both the odometer reading and trip reading displayed together. Its a real pain to keep scrolling through trip A, Trip B back to the odometer reading.

    Comments on the lemon list.
    After reading some of the posts - it seems someone has a grudge against the Highlander and is posting ridiculous complaints, for example, "The brake pedal is too close to the accelerator" (as the person making the complaint seemed to have hit the gas while reversing).
  • macpetemacpete Member Posts: 3
    I have a '03 Highlander that is showing signs of paint pits from stones, etc. I'm thinking of getting paint protection and also rust proffing from a Ziebart or "The Protector".

    Anyone have any experience with these two companies?

    What is the feeling of doing the rust and paint protection?

    Thanks
  • fvpfvp Member Posts: 147
    I have an 03 HL 4WD V6 bought in July. So far [knock on wood] there are no chips or pits. I do have a deflector on the hood and one on the sunroof that helps channel debris over the car.
    Our dealer offered a "protection package "when I bought it that included rustproofing, interior fabric protection and teflon exterior paint coating. No drilling was involved so the Toyota warrantee is still in effect. The cost was about $450.
    I figured another $450 to protect a $30,000 investment was well worth it.
    Aftermarket protection should help protect your HL, just be careful that it will not void your guarantee.
  • macpetemacpete Member Posts: 3
    fvp, did your dealer sale the "The Protector" system?

    If so, did you ask about the manufacturer’s warranty?
    I agree that for long term care a good rust proofing and paint sealant is good (especial on Japanese cares whose paint is not as "thick" as domestics).

    Anyway, I have been looking into Ziebart but the few comments that I have been able to find don’t say anything good about the application.

    I have had rust proofing done in past using Rusty Jones" but they are no longer in business.

    So, if you bought the "The Protector" system, how do you like the work, any over spayes onto tires, have you looked under the hood for "gunk" all over the place, do they drill holes to apply the chemicals I'm just trying to get an idea of "quality" of application.

    Thanks much for your views
  • sstepasstepa Member Posts: 9
    For what it's worth, I would recommend you do not have your new car rust proofed and save yourself some money. Even if you live in an area where you experience heavy salting of the roads in the winter, having your vehicles underside washed will take care of most of the "stuff" that builds up.

    Cars today are built much better body wise than those built in the 80's and prior. I have a 1992 Ford Taurus with over 165K miles and live in PA with some harsh winters. No rust. Same with my 1999 VW Passat. I wax both cars twice a year and they are garaged and shine when washed.

    If you decided to rust proof, you take the risk of them botching the job. Note that all vehicles have drain holes throughout the body and the biggest complaint I've read about rust proofing is those guys clog up the drain holes causing more harm than good.

    Again, in my opinion, if you wax your car with a good wax yearly and keep it washed, especially the underside in the winter, you'll be fine. Also, how long do you plan on keeping your Highlander? If 5 years or less, you are covered by Toyota for rust through. Take a look at any 2001-2003 Highlander (or any other car) for sale at your dealer and I'll bet you find zero signs of any rust.
    Good Luck
  • macpetemacpete Member Posts: 3
    sstepa, thanks for your input. I have had past cars rust proofed. Our '03HL is replacing a '95 Mercury Villager ( Nisan power train and Merc body, best of both worlds). The Merc was rust proofed and today there is absolutely no rust anywhere, is it a better body, I don’t know. Having said that, I have been procrastinating on getting the HL rust proofed because I have not been able to find anybody that has anything good to say about current Rust Proofing providers i.e plugging up the drain holes, messing things up in general and the feeling that its no longer needed

    I have spent the last two days scouring the web for information on rust proofing and nothing, that in itself is telling me something !, I even looked into the "electronic rust inhibiters" sounds good but not practical in open air.

    However, during the time searching, I did come across something interesting having to do with paint protection.

    A product introduced by 3M called Scotchguard Paint Protector (originally developed for the Military to protect Helicopter blades in sand, etc). Its a 8mil clear sheet that us applied to the surface of the body. Its currently geared as a replacement for the Bug Guard (among other things), to protect the front end. Patterns can be bought and applied by a competent individual or professional installed! You can actually buy patterns for just about any car.

    I have no doubt that it will showing up at the AutoZones/PepeBoys anytime soon now.

    Tomorrow I plan on calling two Detail Houses in my area that offer the service to see if its cost effective, if nothing else, I'll just do the front of hood (Toyota wants $97 bucks for a Bug Guard).

    Anyway, thanks for the confirmation
  • fvpfvp Member Posts: 147
    The package that my dealer installed was called "Auto Armor". All work was done perfectly-there was no over spray, clogged drain holes or problems of any kind.
    sstepa is correct - cars are made much better today than 20 years ago and not many people get a car rustproofed these days. However, our HL sits outside all winter and there are times when washing [much less a good underside spraying]is impossible for weeks on end. Plus, we have two small children and the inside protection was a big plus for us. So for me, spending a few bucks for inside fabric protection, rust protection and teflon paint protection was a no brainer.
    By the way, Toyota warranty does not cover damage from road salt.
  • steveg44steveg44 Member Posts: 21
    I am stumped about how to get wires up throught the A pillar to mount a self dimming mirror. I have seen a lot of posts that say how easy it is. I can't figure out how to do it.
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    I was also stumped,at first, but if I remember correctly, it pulls directly out..it just snaps right back in. I think i used a tool I have that looks like a screwdriver, but it has a 90 degree bend in it, and a point rather than a blunt end, to get under the edge of the plastic to allow my finger to get there. I was concerned about breaking something, but it was realy very easy.
  • 2003tls2003tls Member Posts: 100
    I am looking at the 2004 Highlander w/ V6, 3rd Seat, and AWD. But after reading about all these problems, both here and in the Edmunds reviews, I am a bit worried about the quality. Just how bad is the wind noise and bad door seals? I will be trading in a 1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE, and although not perfect, it has been reasonably reliable. I have read in several places that Toyota's quality has gone downhill in recent years (selling to fleets and rent a car companies will do that). So, bottom line, would you recommend a 2004 Highlander to a friend, knowing what you know now. Thanks in advance.
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    I would definitely recommend the Highlander.
    We have 2004 Limited AWD. Absolutely love it so far. Slight wind noise, but I expected this.
    Compared to most other SUVs the Highlander is a gem.
  • hlfanhlfan Member Posts: 46
    After 1500 miles, mine is a firm "yes, I recommend it".

    Sure, I would have liked a little less wind noise, but this is not a sedan. I would have liked a few extra MPGs, but I chose the AWD knowing the decrease in mpg.

    I see nothing wrong with the build quality; this is my 3rd new toyota in 7 years, and everyone was better than the last in all aspects.

    I agree about the lack of lights on interior controls, but it is not a big issue.

    I think the ppl complaining about buffeting noise are being anal, why do you have to drive with the rear windows ONLY down, just crack another window !
  • kdvaillancourtkdvaillancourt Member Posts: 19
    If you buy the Highlander be prepared for creaks in doors, minor rattles, etc.. The wind noise when rear window is down or sunroof open is typical on all SUV's. But,the sheetmetal on the Highlander is thin. Try this experiment: about 3-4 inches below the bottom of the window frame (front or rear door) take 2 or 3 fingers and press lightly, but firm (do not worry, you will not dent the door) and you will notice the sheetmetal pushes in easily and you might even notice a creaking sound from the window frame. I have a 04 Corolla and 02 Sequoia and the sheetmetal on both cars is "stronger" and their is little or no play. I like my Highlander, but Toyota is cutting corners.
    But, after visting the auto show it was obvious most auto makers are cutting corners. As I have previously stated (prev. posting), my 02 Sequoia has fewer issues and is quietier.
  • dberger2dberger2 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 04 Highlander two months ago. The ticking is getting worse, I guess because of the cold. I took it to the dealer and got the same response as everyone else "Normal" I love the car but this has to get fixed. I'm taking everyones comments to the dealer and will ask them to fix it again. I'll keep you posted, any good permanent fix I'd like to hear it. If Toyota is listening - its just a matter of time. Please help us out.
  • shaweetshaweet Member Posts: 12
    Have the HL for about a week now, but didn't have the chance yet to read through the manual. Does anyone know how to turn off that beep sound when using the NAV? Or do I have to live with it....
    thanks!
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    I've got about 18,500 on our 2003LTD AWD V6 and I'd recommend this car to friend and family.

    We never drive with a back window down, so that noise has been a non-issue. The slight "singing" noise from the right rear wheel seal hasn't been heard in over 6 months, and wasn't a big deal then as it only happened every few weeks for a moment or two and couldn't even be heard if the radio was on.

    I'm a little concerned about the brake rotor warpings I've read about here. Having been in the brake business, however, I know of a possible cause and have been driving accordingly: If you do hard or heavy braking then sit without moving for a few minutes, all the heat from the pads transfers to only one part of the rotor. After heating up the brake pads and while stopped (at a light, for instance) I'll allow the car to inch forward ever so slightly every 10 seconds or so, allowing that heat to transfer more evenly around the rotor. We'll see in 10 or 15 thousand more miles if it is a valid theory.

    I haven't heard the "ticking" from the engine, but it doesn't get very cold here.

    I've had no return trips to the dealer to fix ANY problem, which wouldn't be the case had I bought most other cars I believe (especially the Explorer that we had set out to buy that day).

    Gas mileage is consistantly around 20 to 21 in rural hilly driving, adequate for this big of a vehicle I think.

    Two weeks ago I was stopped on a downhill grade to make a left turn after traffic had passed, and noticed a truck barrelling down the hill toward me obviously not realizing I was there and stopped. I floored it when it became obvious he was going to rear-end us at about 70 and the car leapt to the challenge and prevented a serious accident. Still trying to take the pucker out of the drivers seat cushion though.

    I didn't get the auto-dim rearview mirror (about the only option that didn't come on it) but don't miss it as I never manually dim the mirror anyway -- the privacy glass makes headlights seem dim.

    I'll buy the extended warranty from Toyota (probably online) before I hit 36000 miles, but only because there are SO MANY computers in this thing, there are a lot of possible expensive repairs due to electrical malfunctions. The one posted here about the climate control unit would almost have paid the premium for that extended warranty.

    We only wish that the passenger seat was electric and that there was a seat position memory feature. Other than that the biggest "defect" in design is the lack of two bottom screws on the rear license plate, making it 'slap' the tailgate whenever it is shut. Thinking of putting a dab of clear silicone under it.

    So yes, I'd recommend this car.... sorry for the book, but I omitted much.
  • jbolltjbollt Member Posts: 736
    I also didn't like the "missing" lower license plate bolts, and bought some 3M double sided tape, it is actualy kind of a foam tape, about 1/8 inch (or so) thick. I applied it to the back of the license plate, and it sticks to the tailgate...no more noise when shutting the gate.
  • phrosutphrosut Member Posts: 122
    My wife got a personalized license frame for Christmas and I just got it installed last weekend. The metal frame slaps the car a lot harder than the old dealer plastic frame so I gotta do something. I'll use your idea, as it sounds better than a glop of silicone.
  • 2003tls2003tls Member Posts: 100
    I read on another site that some Highlander owners with the VSC option (standard on 2004, optional on previous years) complained that the VSC tended to act up prematurely and actually was more of an annoyance than a safety feature. Considering that VSC is actually a selling point to me, is this true? I haven't heard it mentioned in this forum as a problem.
  • sstepasstepa Member Posts: 9
    Just picked up my black on charcol 2004 HL LTD. Still in the honeymoon stage :-). Anyone know if there is an auto door lock feature on the HL? Meaning, once you start driving and hit a speed of either 5 or 10MPH, the doors automatically lock. My VW and old Ford Taurus do that and my wife is used to it. I didn't see it mentioned in my manual so I think not but maybe I missed something. Thanks in advance.

    PS, phrosut, your pucker in the seat cushion had me howling! Glad you got out of there in time.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    In my testing this past week (01 AWD RX) in the snowstorm we just had was that TRAC would activate very quickly with any wheel slippage but VSC virtually not at all. The RX owners manual does say that VSC doesn't activate below 9MPH.

    Trying to accelerate moderately(??) on snow and ice TRAC would apply the brakes, "rattling noise" is my best description, and then dethrottle the engine fairly quickly. It was my impression that the engine dethrottling was no where near as drastic as that in the 92 LS in the same circumstance.

    I was not able to get VSC to activate by intentionally inducing oversteer or understeer, but it is possible that I never reached 9MPH in the Sears parking lot.

    The TRAC icon on the instrument panel is virtually useless, it does illuminate with TRAC activity but once the event has passed and you have a chance to look down it has already extinguished.

    My guess would be that TRAC on a 2WD (FWD) HL would be more of a nuisance than a help, much like TRAC on the RWD LS.
  • junepugjunepug Member Posts: 161
    We have had our fwd non limited for 16 months. we have put 14,000 trouble free miles on this car and I must say it is the most trouble free car I have ever owned.

    I think that human nature, being what it is, tends to stress the negative rather than the positive. We will always find something to complain about.
  • roadrunner70roadrunner70 Member Posts: 241
    on the v6, i am planning on draining and refilling the cooling system. there is a little drain tube hanging down on the driver's side of the radiator, how do you open it. besides iit is almost impossible to reach.

    did any one remove the bottom plastic cover to reach it. thank.s
  • fvpfvp Member Posts: 147
    I was killing time recently looking through our dealers parts shop [while waiting on an oil change]and came across license plate frames with the names of most of Toyota's cars and trucks on them - Highlander included. I opted for the frame that has "Toyota" on it for our HL.
    As with everything in the parts department, the frames were a bit pricy [$16], but they had a "lip" on the bottom that the license plate fits into as well as a clear plastic faceplate that covers the plate itself. It tightens up nicely [it even has chrome covers that hides the screws] and there is no rattle when the gate is closed. An easy fix to the plate rattle problem.
  • martman1martman1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002Highlander4wd-limited-19k miles-no problems 3 oil changes only.The heat in the car seems to take a long time to get warm, the leather seats are also very slow to heat.Is just the seat suppose to warm, or the back as well. The book says for fast heating, press recirculate button, my setting I put at 85 deg.I recall posting of HVAC problems, and have 1 year left on warranty.Is there a test the dealership can do thru the ecm module. I realize the thermostat mmight be the obvious problem, but at max. setting I dont think its ever 85 degrees.
                        Thanks in Advance
  • gwkisergwkiser Member Posts: 326
    Can't help you much on the seat heater option as we don't have that. However, on our '01 Limited, the heater won't go to full on until engine temp is high enough (using Auto with specific temp set).
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Assuming the same, RX300.....

    In automatic mode the HVAC blower doesn't come on until the engine water jacket is up to 130F. If you put the system in defrost the blower comes on right away or you can turn it on manually.

    The A/C runs year round so disabling it to avoid "blended airflow" might help. The dealer did mine via the C-best options but in past years I have simply disconnected the refrigerant pressure sensor just behind the front bumper in the center.
  • mrkodermrkoder Member Posts: 1
    VSC works when you hear a beeping sound. Last time it was snowing, I tested it a few times - the result is pretty natural - the car is very stable making a turn. One of the places ( T - crossing ) I tested it was where I have seen at least a couple of accidents for the past couple of years, when cars would actually slide into the opposite lane when making a right turn in either rainy or snowy weather. HL took that turn at about 15 - 20 mph in wet snow without hesitation - just gave the beeping warning about VSC activating. I am not sure if there's a limit speed when VSC stops working, though. I checked the manual, there's no indication of a speed range for VSC.
  • bigdadbigdad Member Posts: 55
    ride in the Highlander. I bought it new at the end of Sept 2002 and now just turned 36K miles...other than oil changes the dealer just adjusted the tailgate door opener to require less force to squeeze to get it to open, and adjusted the roof rack to minimize noise...that's it! Been a great car and lives up to every expectation I had from Toyota. I have owned Acuras and Nissan and Lincoln, Ford, Infinity, Olds, and God help me even a Chrysler Minivan (never again!!!!!!) I would buy again
  • jonrockjonrock Member Posts: 7
    Just got the bug deflector for my 2004 Highlander from the Toyota dealer. It makes a whistle sound on the freeway, (fortunately not real loud, just enough to annoy) Any experience here on how to get rid of the noise?
  • fvpfvp Member Posts: 147
    You may want to check the installation of the bug deflector. I have an '03 HL with a Toyota deflector on it and I don't hear any noise - even at freeway speeds.
    I don't know if it snows where you live but it does in Western PA and the stock Bridgestone tires are garbage. We had another 3" snow last night and these tires do not perform good in slippery conditions.
    Have an appointment today for four Michelin Cross Terrains to be installed - that should solve the problem.
  • rmui1rmui1 Member Posts: 48
    I had that problem as well as a few others here in the past. Mine was resolved by putting back the rubber seal/molding that was removed per instructions for the bug shield. At first I put it between the sheield and under side of hood but that did not help, but did move the whistle from the driver's side to the other side. I then moved the rubber seal to the other side of the bug shield and that got rid of my whistle. However you might have a difference experience--it all depends on the gap distance between your shield and the top of your hood which is what causes the whistle.
  • roadrunner70roadrunner70 Member Posts: 241
    on the v6, i am planning on draining and refilling the cooling system. there is a little drain tube hanging down on the driver's side of the radiator, how do you open it. besides iit is almost impossible to reach.

    did any one remove the bottom plastic cover to reach it. thank.s
  • thoonthoon Member Posts: 74
    What's the best way to get rid of swirl marks? I bought an Indigo Ink Pearl Highlander last May and when I took it into to my local dealer for warranty service, they gave me a free car wash, but ended up putting swirl marks all over my car! I didn't notice it until the next day so I couldn't do anything about it.

      Also, is it possible to put Sport or High Performance tires on the stock 16" alloy rims? I can't find any that match the size of my P225/70R16 Integrity tires. These tires are crap and I want to replace them.
  • bigdadbigdad Member Posts: 55
    shouldn't be too difficult to remove using one of the many scratch and swirl mark liquids/pastes from companies like 3M (they make a really good pro type) or even Turtle Wax....just make sure you ARE NOT using rubbing compound....a lite polishing compound that is clear coat safe can work. Do NOT get too agressive until you know the results and have a feel for it...but, I think if you approach the dealer correctly, that they will stand up to their responsibility and get this corrected for you at a pro facility. Certainly worth a try, I am sure they would like to know if their equipment is damaging cars too.
    As for tires, I replaced the junky Integrity tires with Yokohama Outlander G051 225x70x16. It got rid of the hydroplaning and are wearing great and handling confidently in the rain. They are white outline on one side and black on the other,,,take your pick....$105 per tire at Discount Tire.
  • rugby65rugby65 Member Posts: 81
    Think you got a good deal on your Toyota read this. We all like to think we did but it won't happen until there are laws written to protect us.
    Never for one minute did I think I was getting a good deal.-----I love my toyota but I paid more for it than I should have. More than likely you did to==========This report is 71 pages long and if you have already bought your new Vehicle you might not want to read it.

    http://www.citizen.org/autosafety/dealerscam/
  • kjrussokjrusso Member Posts: 3
    To tc123: I apologize, I have been away from the site and didn't see your message. The seal is below the dashboard, near the pedals. The steering column goes through a round seal at this point. Hope this helps.
  • j2landonj2landon Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Highlander with 1800 miles. On cold days (<20 degrees) it will not shift into 4th. At 65mph the engine is will hit 4500RPM. It may then suddenly shift into 4th and drop to 2100rpm or if I need to slow down it will eventualy work properly. Once it shifts once it works fine until the next cold start.
    The dealer is trying to tell me this is normal and that I need to let the engine warm up before driving.
    Does anyone else have this problem?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Supposedly to light off the catalytic converter more quickly.
  • chop889chop889 Member Posts: 9
    I live in MA and I have the same situation on cold days. 2002 Highlander LTD. The dealer also told me the same thing. Not sure if that is correct either
  • typesixtypesix Member Posts: 321
    It is correct. I have an 1989 Camry that does the same. It is to have the converter and engine warm up faster to reduce emissions. If you pay attention to the temperature gage needle, you will notice that after it reaches a certain point before the normal mark, the transmission will then shift into 4th gear. Naturally, the colder the weather, the slower the engine will warm up.
  • carold2carold2 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had intermittent transmission related problems? Twice, I have pulled over thinking I had a flat tire after experiencing a very rough kind of bumpy ride--unable to accelerate much. There is even a burning type of smell. After stopping, the car is fine for a while. The dealership completed diagnostics and found nothing. I have no confidence in the car anymore!!
  • aliminalimin Member Posts: 80
    That's how you tell the outside temperature in winter: the colder it is the further you drive until 4th kicks in.
  • matt2395matt2395 Member Posts: 1
    Every so often when I start up my 04 HL V6 Ltd with Navigation System my Navigation screen will be tinted blue and remain tinted blue until the next start up (when the full color screen usually returns). This begins right at start up and is not related to the "I Accept" screen (which is also tinted blue when this happens). Turning the screen off and then on does not correct the problem. Shutting down the engine and then restarting the truck usually corrects the problem.

    I've spoken to my dealer and Toyota and they have no idea what could be causing this.

    Does anyone know if there is a reason for this or is it just a defect? Has anyone had a similar experience?

    In all other respects, the Navigation System works perfectly.

    Thank you.
  • twosmgstwosmgs Member Posts: 11
    Took a long test drive in a Limited yesterday. Was favorably impressed, but the single stage seat heaters were weak and not too much warmth was noticeable. Admittedly, it was 6 degrees outside, but other vehicles (including Toyotas) with multiple heat settings get us nice and toasty in similarly frigid conditions. Am I being too picky, or have others noticed this problem, too? Is there a remedy? Does anyone know if better seat heaters or different switches will be incorporated in the 05's?
  • banner1banner1 Member Posts: 14
    I have had the air bag light flash a code on very cold mornings that clears up when the day warms up. Any ideas on this condition? Thanks.
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