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Comments
After 1200 miles I had around 17.5 on the 4WD V6. My commute is quite hilly though. If I do more surface streets, and less freeway, it goes down to 16. This is a lot lower than I expected, but I must admit I do 80 mph over rolling hills often, and it does a lot better if I stick to 75. Also notice on a long flat commute I got 22. So I think climbing has alot to do with it, which makes sense given the incresed weight of the 4WD.
Same procedure applies for the trip counters on the odometer.
There is no mention in my owners manual about automatic fuel level sensors and fuel door resets?
Why couldn't Toyota have both the odometer reading and trip reading displayed together. Its a real pain to keep scrolling through trip A, Trip B back to the odometer reading.
Comments on the lemon list.
After reading some of the posts - it seems someone has a grudge against the Highlander and is posting ridiculous complaints, for example, "The brake pedal is too close to the accelerator" (as the person making the complaint seemed to have hit the gas while reversing).
Anyone have any experience with these two companies?
What is the feeling of doing the rust and paint protection?
Thanks
Our dealer offered a "protection package "when I bought it that included rustproofing, interior fabric protection and teflon exterior paint coating. No drilling was involved so the Toyota warrantee is still in effect. The cost was about $450.
I figured another $450 to protect a $30,000 investment was well worth it.
Aftermarket protection should help protect your HL, just be careful that it will not void your guarantee.
If so, did you ask about the manufacturer’s warranty?
I agree that for long term care a good rust proofing and paint sealant is good (especial on Japanese cares whose paint is not as "thick" as domestics).
Anyway, I have been looking into Ziebart but the few comments that I have been able to find don’t say anything good about the application.
I have had rust proofing done in past using Rusty Jones" but they are no longer in business.
So, if you bought the "The Protector" system, how do you like the work, any over spayes onto tires, have you looked under the hood for "gunk" all over the place, do they drill holes to apply the chemicals I'm just trying to get an idea of "quality" of application.
Thanks much for your views
Cars today are built much better body wise than those built in the 80's and prior. I have a 1992 Ford Taurus with over 165K miles and live in PA with some harsh winters. No rust. Same with my 1999 VW Passat. I wax both cars twice a year and they are garaged and shine when washed.
If you decided to rust proof, you take the risk of them botching the job. Note that all vehicles have drain holes throughout the body and the biggest complaint I've read about rust proofing is those guys clog up the drain holes causing more harm than good.
Again, in my opinion, if you wax your car with a good wax yearly and keep it washed, especially the underside in the winter, you'll be fine. Also, how long do you plan on keeping your Highlander? If 5 years or less, you are covered by Toyota for rust through. Take a look at any 2001-2003 Highlander (or any other car) for sale at your dealer and I'll bet you find zero signs of any rust.
Good Luck
I have spent the last two days scouring the web for information on rust proofing and nothing, that in itself is telling me something !, I even looked into the "electronic rust inhibiters" sounds good but not practical in open air.
However, during the time searching, I did come across something interesting having to do with paint protection.
A product introduced by 3M called Scotchguard Paint Protector (originally developed for the Military to protect Helicopter blades in sand, etc). Its a 8mil clear sheet that us applied to the surface of the body. Its currently geared as a replacement for the Bug Guard (among other things), to protect the front end. Patterns can be bought and applied by a competent individual or professional installed! You can actually buy patterns for just about any car.
I have no doubt that it will showing up at the AutoZones/PepeBoys anytime soon now.
Tomorrow I plan on calling two Detail Houses in my area that offer the service to see if its cost effective, if nothing else, I'll just do the front of hood (Toyota wants $97 bucks for a Bug Guard).
Anyway, thanks for the confirmation
sstepa is correct - cars are made much better today than 20 years ago and not many people get a car rustproofed these days. However, our HL sits outside all winter and there are times when washing [much less a good underside spraying]is impossible for weeks on end. Plus, we have two small children and the inside protection was a big plus for us. So for me, spending a few bucks for inside fabric protection, rust protection and teflon paint protection was a no brainer.
By the way, Toyota warranty does not cover damage from road salt.
We have 2004 Limited AWD. Absolutely love it so far. Slight wind noise, but I expected this.
Compared to most other SUVs the Highlander is a gem.
Sure, I would have liked a little less wind noise, but this is not a sedan. I would have liked a few extra MPGs, but I chose the AWD knowing the decrease in mpg.
I see nothing wrong with the build quality; this is my 3rd new toyota in 7 years, and everyone was better than the last in all aspects.
I agree about the lack of lights on interior controls, but it is not a big issue.
I think the ppl complaining about buffeting noise are being anal, why do you have to drive with the rear windows ONLY down, just crack another window !
But, after visting the auto show it was obvious most auto makers are cutting corners. As I have previously stated (prev. posting), my 02 Sequoia has fewer issues and is quietier.
thanks!
We never drive with a back window down, so that noise has been a non-issue. The slight "singing" noise from the right rear wheel seal hasn't been heard in over 6 months, and wasn't a big deal then as it only happened every few weeks for a moment or two and couldn't even be heard if the radio was on.
I'm a little concerned about the brake rotor warpings I've read about here. Having been in the brake business, however, I know of a possible cause and have been driving accordingly: If you do hard or heavy braking then sit without moving for a few minutes, all the heat from the pads transfers to only one part of the rotor. After heating up the brake pads and while stopped (at a light, for instance) I'll allow the car to inch forward ever so slightly every 10 seconds or so, allowing that heat to transfer more evenly around the rotor. We'll see in 10 or 15 thousand more miles if it is a valid theory.
I haven't heard the "ticking" from the engine, but it doesn't get very cold here.
I've had no return trips to the dealer to fix ANY problem, which wouldn't be the case had I bought most other cars I believe (especially the Explorer that we had set out to buy that day).
Gas mileage is consistantly around 20 to 21 in rural hilly driving, adequate for this big of a vehicle I think.
Two weeks ago I was stopped on a downhill grade to make a left turn after traffic had passed, and noticed a truck barrelling down the hill toward me obviously not realizing I was there and stopped. I floored it when it became obvious he was going to rear-end us at about 70 and the car leapt to the challenge and prevented a serious accident. Still trying to take the pucker out of the drivers seat cushion though.
I didn't get the auto-dim rearview mirror (about the only option that didn't come on it) but don't miss it as I never manually dim the mirror anyway -- the privacy glass makes headlights seem dim.
I'll buy the extended warranty from Toyota (probably online) before I hit 36000 miles, but only because there are SO MANY computers in this thing, there are a lot of possible expensive repairs due to electrical malfunctions. The one posted here about the climate control unit would almost have paid the premium for that extended warranty.
We only wish that the passenger seat was electric and that there was a seat position memory feature. Other than that the biggest "defect" in design is the lack of two bottom screws on the rear license plate, making it 'slap' the tailgate whenever it is shut. Thinking of putting a dab of clear silicone under it.
So yes, I'd recommend this car.... sorry for the book, but I omitted much.
PS, phrosut, your pucker in the seat cushion had me howling! Glad you got out of there in time.
Trying to accelerate moderately(??) on snow and ice TRAC would apply the brakes, "rattling noise" is my best description, and then dethrottle the engine fairly quickly. It was my impression that the engine dethrottling was no where near as drastic as that in the 92 LS in the same circumstance.
I was not able to get VSC to activate by intentionally inducing oversteer or understeer, but it is possible that I never reached 9MPH in the Sears parking lot.
The TRAC icon on the instrument panel is virtually useless, it does illuminate with TRAC activity but once the event has passed and you have a chance to look down it has already extinguished.
My guess would be that TRAC on a 2WD (FWD) HL would be more of a nuisance than a help, much like TRAC on the RWD LS.
I think that human nature, being what it is, tends to stress the negative rather than the positive. We will always find something to complain about.
did any one remove the bottom plastic cover to reach it. thank.s
As with everything in the parts department, the frames were a bit pricy [$16], but they had a "lip" on the bottom that the license plate fits into as well as a clear plastic faceplate that covers the plate itself. It tightens up nicely [it even has chrome covers that hides the screws] and there is no rattle when the gate is closed. An easy fix to the plate rattle problem.
Thanks in Advance
In automatic mode the HVAC blower doesn't come on until the engine water jacket is up to 130F. If you put the system in defrost the blower comes on right away or you can turn it on manually.
The A/C runs year round so disabling it to avoid "blended airflow" might help. The dealer did mine via the C-best options but in past years I have simply disconnected the refrigerant pressure sensor just behind the front bumper in the center.
I don't know if it snows where you live but it does in Western PA and the stock Bridgestone tires are garbage. We had another 3" snow last night and these tires do not perform good in slippery conditions.
Have an appointment today for four Michelin Cross Terrains to be installed - that should solve the problem.
did any one remove the bottom plastic cover to reach it. thank.s
Also, is it possible to put Sport or High Performance tires on the stock 16" alloy rims? I can't find any that match the size of my P225/70R16 Integrity tires. These tires are crap and I want to replace them.
As for tires, I replaced the junky Integrity tires with Yokohama Outlander G051 225x70x16. It got rid of the hydroplaning and are wearing great and handling confidently in the rain. They are white outline on one side and black on the other,,,take your pick....$105 per tire at Discount Tire.
Never for one minute did I think I was getting a good deal.-----I love my toyota but I paid more for it than I should have. More than likely you did to==========This report is 71 pages long and if you have already bought your new Vehicle you might not want to read it.
http://www.citizen.org/autosafety/dealerscam/
The dealer is trying to tell me this is normal and that I need to let the engine warm up before driving.
Does anyone else have this problem?
I've spoken to my dealer and Toyota and they have no idea what could be causing this.
Does anyone know if there is a reason for this or is it just a defect? Has anyone had a similar experience?
In all other respects, the Navigation System works perfectly.
Thank you.