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It's covered from front to back with spots that you can feel, are clear, crackly looking. Theres one every square inch. Some are
turning a rusty color. Nothing has hit the sides, and you can tell they are drops of something because close to the sides the spots are longer. I also have two chips on the roof that don't look like a big piece chipped off by something, but it's many craks with little pieces fallen off here and there.
The first time I took it to the dealer (It's a Dodge dealer that sells new hyundais) for the two spots, they were going to repaint it, at least that's what it said on the receipt, they didn't give an explanation for it too. I never got back right away since that was the day when I first saw the other spots across the paint. They were hidden since I didn't wash the car worrying it would effect the chip and how it was caused. When I got the car back, they had washed it themselves. I thought these spots across the car where just soap spots at the time. But when a car wash didn't work, or when sap/tar remover didn't budge them, something was wrong.
Taking to the dealer again after a long time, I'm lazy (but I was washing the car all the time when I first got it, I was proud of my first car, but got depressed after the flaws, they also arn't opened weekends) Well, they had a new
staff, this time they said those particular two chips are caused by bird crap, when the last time they didn't say that, and they don't keep records too long, luckily I found the original receipt which I'll show later. Then they told me the spots across the car have eaten into the clear coat, which can only be done by acid or chemical. And bird crap excuse for the chips is lame, especially only after 3 months of buying it. And for acid, how do they explain that it's covered evenly, no splash like pattern where it hit somewhere and spread out as it went further. This is on the hood evenly, the roof, top sides of the doors and car, and the back hatch, but amazingly not on any vertical sides. What are the chances of acid landing like that?
I think it's something from a tree, as I continuely see similar looking spots on my windows that wash away. And so if it is tree sap, how can something like that eat through a clear coat unless something is wrong with the paint? I parked my 1977 Delta 88 for a year in the same spots I'm parking this car and it never had this problem. My dad with his Torus has had his car there for 5 years with no problem in the same work place. And no other cars seem to have this ugly problem on the paint. If it was tree downtown with sap eating through paint, I'd think the tree would have been removed 20 years ago after complaints of ruined paint. And as the spots are apearing more and more, and on windows after a wash, it again can't be acid.
Does this sound like a paint defect, a weakness to enviornmental stuff that it shouldn't be. My parents who have own so many cars in their lifetime say they have never seen something this bad, especially for being so new.
While I'm at it, the locking mechanism for the hatch door rattles over bumps, just locking it with the remote, closing it, rough roads, and sometimes while at a light. The previous employees said it wasn't a concern, they could replace it, but they said there was no gaurantee it would stop or start again. The other GTs didn't do it on the lot, they are asses. We looked at one, and with his finger flicking at the rod in a new car that seems to be the problem in my car, it made a similar rattle, but that was 1/30th the level, and it had to be opened and touched to recreate it, and that was his excuse for it being normal. They should replace the entire hatch if the rod replacement doesn't work, the damn car was two weeks old at the time. Plus there's other rattles galor in the side panels to the doors. I can't drive on the freeway without having to push my elbow against the side to stop it without going nuts. Rough roads, oh my god. Even the passenger female buckle at the front is defective, it doesn't spring back like it's supposed to and rattles all the time, I have to buckle that seat to stop it. The first time I took it for that, they ordered the part, I came back on the next oil change, wish they were open on weekends again, and they had no idea about it, the part wasn't there anymore, and this time they said when I got it back the buckle had no problem. Horribly inconsitent.
turning a rusty color." That could point to rail dust being the culprit. If rail dust gets on a new, unprotected paint finish, it can embed little metal particles into the clearcoat and cause damage like what you are describing. That can happen in transit or even while the car is sitting in a lot waiting for delivery, if it's close to a rail line. Did anyone with Hyundai mention this possibility?
Remind you this is a Dodge dealer talking.
So if this rail dust gets on the car, that could be a reason for rust color if the clear coat was comprimised. But is it also the reason for my car being so easily damaged by something like everyday sap?
I'll get some pics with a digital camera
Because shimmy come back after second tire rotation, I believe there is something wrong with wheel installation. I uninstalled two front wheels and inspected carefully. I noticed that steel rims and nuts in hub both have marks. rim has a small bent and nut in hub has a blue mark. I matched these two marks when I put wheels back, and surprisingly it worked. I feel the steering wheel is very stable for any speed and it is same as before tire rotation. I don't know I've solved the problem completely or not, but I will drive with this for another 7.5k.
Regarding your specific problem, bird droppings and tree sap are nasty on any car finish, not just Hyundai (clear coat is only 0.002 to 0.004 inches thick). Bird droppings can be especially bad if the birds have been feasting on berries (lots of natural dyes and acids). Some trees "drop" a fine sap, almost like a mist, during their "seeding" season. This can cover the horizontal surfaces with "spots" but they normally aren't very large.
That said, your description of an EVEN distribution on horizontal surfaces sounds much like the problem I had. Are there chemical plants, railroad tracks, farms or construction projects near where you parked? All of these can produce assorted airborn nasties that can settle on your car.
Regardless of the cause, you are probably seeking a solution to return the finish to near-new condition without having to repaint the top coat. My Hyundai body shop along with Internet forums provided me with the solution to my problem - it may work for you, too. Note that this is time consuming, MUST take place in one to two days WITHOUT driving away, should NOT be done in direct sunlight, and take a lot of elbow grease (power buffers are NOT recommended). My Elantra took 15 hours of labor to restore.
Here is the process and list of materials I used.
Materials:
1) Petrolium based tar and bug remover - I know, it's not good for the environment but it's the only way to TOTALLY remove tar; about $3.
2) Dawn liquid dish detergent - used to remove ALL wax from finish, about $2.
3) California Dry Blade - a soft "plastic" blade used to quickly remove the water after washing; WalMart about $9.
4) Clay Magic (brand) clay cleaner bar -a product used by body shops to remove overspray and embedded dirt; Checkers or AutoZone, $10.
5) Maguiar's Deep Crytal Step #2 polish - used to POLISH after using Clay Magic; about $5 (do NOT use "cleaner" products!).
6) A quality foam applicator pad (I used Sure Grip brand) - to apply polish; about $3.
7) RainX Utlra Wax - used to seal the finish after polishing (really a polymer, not a true wax); WalMart, about $8. Note that the included applicator works well - do NOT reuse the applicator used for the polish.
8) Microfiber cloths, 6 to 8 - used to dry the car and remove the sealer (VERY important to use these, not towels!); about $7 for 6 (suggest getting two packages for $14).
Procedure:
Remove all tar and bugs using tar-and-bug remover product.
Wash twice with strong concentraiton of Dawn to remove all wax. Do NOT wash in sunlight (dries too fast and leaves stubborn spots).
After second wash, LEAVE car WET.
Next, rub down the entire car with Clay Magic. Follow manufacturer directions. Use their lubricant or a little water if the surface begins to dry. Note: cut the Clay Magic bar in half. If you drop it, throw it away as it is no longer safe to use on your finish!
Wash car with very little soap to remove Clay Magic residue.
Use California Blade to "quick dry" and immediately use microfiber cloth to thorough dry the car and remove any water spots.
Finish should now feel smooth as glass and look like new.
Apply Maguiar's Polish using foam applicator pad. Do NOT apply in sunlight. Apply in STRAIGHT LINE motion, do NOT use circular motion! You want to remove swirl marks, not add them. Remove polish with microfiber cloths, turning and replacing frequently (you did buy enough, didn't you?).
Apply Ultra Wax in THIN layer. Remove with microfiber cloths, turning and replacing frequenty.
ALL of the above should be done in one day without driving away.
After a minimum of 12 hours, repeat second coat of Ultra Wax polymer.
Done. Enjoy a great finish.
Regards,
G in Denver
You'll see photos of the rear window showing that the spots are not from one freak accident, but something that is reaccuring. I can easily scratch off the spots on the window, but every spot on the paint is perminant. Even a tar and sap remover I tried really quickly didn't do a thing. These spots you'll see on the hood is the same on the roof and back. One photo shows the crack area on the roof, a similar spot on the roof 12 inches away is smaller and cracked, but no chips. The weird spots for the rest of the car are clear when washed, sometimes not visible at certain angles, but that is getting worse. Up close, sorry no macro lens, they look like they 100s of tiny cracks in it.
It's 514k, I made one big image with all of them stiched togethor.
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/timothyb/_uimages/carspots.jpg
I washed the car two weeks ago, and that many spots are on the window again, as you see.
I don't go out much so this is from parking at work, downtown, but I don't see any other cars with this problem when I walk by to the building. Otherwise at home it's in a covered spot. But I got in trouble there too, the complex didn't have their sprinklers set right and one whole side of the car has hardwater spots Why does everything go wrong. I'm only 22 and this was my first car that I'm paying for on my own.
But if the spots are from birds, it doesn't take a month to affect the paint on an Elantra--it takes a day or two. I know that because I've had a couple of bird droppings that I didn't remove right away, and I can see a slight hazing of the clearcoat from those spots. I expect I can buff those out, but I can imagine what would happen if I left the droppings on for a month. And I'm pretty good about waxing my cars, 3-4 times a year. My cars are garaged at night and usually under cover during the day, so they don't get many bird droppings or much tree sap. But I've heard that the new paint formulations, water-based (more "green"), that Hyundai and other makers use now are more susceptible to damage. So comparison to your '77 Olds may not be that useful. It would be better to compare to newer cars that use similar paint formulations, e.g. other Hyundais or cars that use water-based paint.
I could live with some bird spots like these here and there, but with such a new car, something like this is unbelievable, you'd expect this on a 5 year old car. I'd never buy a new car if this happened withen the first 4 months of everyone.
I need to take it to a repectable place to get an opinion on it to find out what it is and if it should have done this.
What things can be done to get this fixed? They did agree to repaint the two chips on the roof. Though, the sevice paper says appointment to be scheduled, no explanation on what was to be done and it was when I got the car back when I first saw the spots, so i don't know if that was included or not. Maybe with the argument that if the roof is to be painted because of the chips being agreed before as a defect, the whole car should be incase there will be more.
My aunts bosses sister had got an elantra gt and it was having problems and the whole thing was repainted. I'm trying to get more info on it. And my Aunt herself got a Sonota and low and behold she had odd chipping on the bumper which was repainted for her.
After looking at your photos, birds are out but other contaminants are probable.
Everything is affected by something - you need to do some detective work here. You said tar remover didn't do anything so that rules out petroleum based contaminants. Next you need to see if it is organic or mineral and if it is acidic or alkaline based. From your pix I see a lot of smaller spots almost like a mist or a powder. It is also on the window so that is the place to start (glass isn't affected by mild solvents as paint would be affected). First try cleaning a small area of glass with vinegar on a paper towel - don't get any on the paint. Also try rubbing alcohol. Does it clean off easily?
Another thing you must do is try to find the source. I would use masking tape to secure a sheet of clear plastic (I would try a sheet of overhead transparency) to the roof/trunk or hood. Use one piece when you park at work and a separate second piece when you park at home. Don't leave it on while driving... 8^)
The large drops almost appear as though they are thicker than water but they also look as though they may be interacting with whatever fine material is covering the car (arrived at this from the short down travel of the spots on your door and window).
I think the first place to look is the car covering at your home. Is this a car port or a fully enclosed garage? If a car port, look up and tell us how it is finished - painted, wood, stained, bare metal, etc. Next, has your city had cool nights and high humidity? If so, does dew form in the grass? If so, it could form in the car port and drip on your car at night although this doesn't answer the question about the finer contaminant.
Try the cleaning method I recommended several posts back. Keep us informed.
Regards,
G in Denver
If anyone has replaced their OEM Michelin tires with Dunlop SP Sport A2s, please let me know your experiences. I'd like to know if gas mileage has changed due to different rolling resistance, if the ride is rougher or smoother, if it is quieter or less quiet inside, etc. It looks like this is the best tire overall for my needs, and especially at the price. Any new information or input is always helpful.
Brent
Jim
I've had my new 2003 Elantra VE for 3 days now, and I noticed that when I exit the car that no warning signal sounds off if I forget to turn off the headlights.
Is this normal? my last two vehicles (not Hyundais) gave a warning signal. I thought this was standard in all new cars.
-Kev-
Jim
Brent
-mrvan
http://bellsouthpwp.net/e/l/ellandry/Resize%20of%20Image-02.jpg
Re the weatherstripping, I compared my repair invoice to yours and found that my dealer only replaced one part, 82130-2D000 W/STRIP AS, which I assume is the driver's side front door weatherstripping. Your dealer replaced three other parts, including a cap and a clip. I'm thinking those new parts made a difference. Also they did not replace the passenger side weatherstripping. So I'm going to talk with them about redoing it just as your dealer did.
and what do u mean by TBS? and what's the part number for the dash kit?
Thanks in advance.
Just thought I'd share those ideas with all of you.
How's your stereo working? I installed one from Pioneer(i paid about $300) and i noticed the bass became weak. After mine was stolen, I installed the factory CD player, I could notice the bass was stronger than my 300 dollar stereo system.
So did you notice that with your new Kenwood stereo? I just wanted to check before I purchase one and regret.
Thanks,
===============================================
This installation should work fine for all 2001-2003 Elantra GLS and GT's. The dash layouts are exactly the same. TSB stands for Technical Service Bulletin. Follow this link - http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/- and click on the TSB tab at the top. Enter your vehical information and look under the "Electrical" category. You should see a section "Kenwood Stereo Installation". All the part number info is described in here. It also includes how to take your dash apart if you want to do your own install. The kit may work for other decks also, but I stuck with Kenwood since the kit already includes a Kenwood smart wiring harness. Good Luck.