Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

xwesx · April 2005

Hey 3sub. I am having the same issue on my '96. I have not followed up with it yet, but I am suspicious that it may be a problem with the intake system that injects additional oxygen into the exhaust system up-pipe from the cat converter. If there is not enough oxygen entering the system, then it will work inefficiently. What's more though, is that the P0420 code records when the voltage differential between the 02 sensor above the cat and the 02 sensor below the cat is not high enough. Hence, "Below Threshold." If and/or when I inspect it, I will report here as to what I find and if it makes a difference. But, I have made it 10 days now since the last time I cleared the P0420 code.... with over 1000 miles since then.... Oy, the inconsistencies.

stantont · April 2005

I also live in Austin, and in December purchased an '02 Legacy wagon (like an Outback with lower suspension and smaller tires) with 57,000 miles on it. The car is a stick shift, so fuel mileage is not directly comparable with your auto, but I am pretty sure Craig hit the nail on the head about your 16 mpg: your 3 mile commute is so short that a) the engine is running cold much of the time (hence inefficient), and b) when you are stopped at a light or in traffic, it is getting 0 mpg, which really hurts the average.

We are semi-retired, so we have no regular "commute", but in our typical around-town driving here in Austin we average 22 mpg (our 2001 Honda Accord V6 automatic got 19 mpg in the same driving), and on our one long highway trip we averaged 29.5 mpg. That was 500 miles to New Orleans and 500 miles back, generally at 75-78 mph, virtually dead flat. (The Accord used to get 27 mpg on the same trip.) If we had an auto, I would expect trip mileage to be about the same, perhaps 1 mpg less, but city mileage to be 2-4 mpg poorer. We are obviously pleased with the Legacy's mileage, especially for an AWD vehicle.

One thing that I did soon after getting the car was put a bottle of fuel system cleaner in when fueling up, and the engine got considerably smoother within minutes (!), especially in off-idle response. I didn't measure fuel mileage before that, so I can't say whether it improved or not, but based on experience with previous cars I would expect an improvement in city mileage after 57,000 miles.

City mileage is so dependent on trip length and traffic conditions that it is difficult to compare between vehicles unless you changed vehicles and didn't change anything else (as in our case with the Accord above). I'd check the little things to be sure they are okay (clean injectors for $5 or so, be sure tire pressure is 32-35 psi COLD, all maintenance done per schedule), then check mileage on a long road trip to get a number that can you can believe. If it is around 24-28 mpg, that is as good as you can expect from a 3500-pound AWD vehicle, and far better than you'd get from a SUV with similar accomodations and room. Then you can just accept your city mileage as being what it is because of the trip length and traffic conditions.

Let us know what you find!

xwesx · April 2005

Metman:

I do notice that oil makes a difference on the tendency for my car to "tick" when I first start it up. It shuts up quickly after 30 seconds or so, but only ticks when I have "cheap" oil in it - some generic stuff from Sam's Club. I usually put either Penzoil or Castrol GTX in it, and it is smooth as butter then unless the oil is more than 1 quart low. But, with the generic stuff, it always ticks upon startup, even with the oil "full." I can only attribute this difference to the oil. My car leaks about 1/2 quart every 500 miles, so I have to watch it pretty close. If your ticking is very pronounced, I doubt the type of oil will 'fix' the problem, but mine is pretty mild/quiet.

Good luck. -Wes-

xwesx · April 2005

i stopped for coffee and the whole inside of the car started filling up with smoke.

Unless the exhaust system is cleaned off, it may continue to smoke for quite some time. An easy way to clean it is to spray down the undercarriage with brake or engine cleaner, let it sit for a few minutes, and hose it down with a pressure washer. All of the residue may not come off, but the stuff that burns will be gone.

Once you've done that, if the smoking comes back, you know you still have a leak!

ive also noticed that when i make a sharpish right hand turn, ie. an off ramp, or into a parking lot, that it makes this loud clunk/grinding sometimes when i step on the gas.

Sounds like you either have a differential going out, or a CV joint. I suspect it is probably a CV joint on the passenter side front, but if you inspect the boots and one is torn open, that's your culprit. I think replacement axles run about $200 (for the part).

xwesx · April 2005

The clunk/grinding is possibly a CV joint or differential. Have you had this checked, and fluids serviced recently? Hope this helps. Rob M.

Doh! I need to start reading instead of skimming.

stantont · April 2005

I posted a query about the CEL on the Subaru Maintenance board and got some good info from people who also post here (thanks, folks!) In particular, someone suggested that Auto Zone will read the CEL error codes for free. True! It took all of 2-3 minutes, and I then had a code I could look up in the service manual.

I had just assumed I needed an O2 sensor, but the CEL code (P0065) said "air assisted injector not in range or performance", and listed a series of things to check out. Meanwhile, the CEL light reset itself (went out) and has not returned, so the problem must have been an intermittent or "glitch". Reading the diagnostic list, I checked out the air assisted injector solenoid and its associated hoses and they seemed fine, so I assumed I may have had a bit of crud come from one of the injectors, since I was running a little bit of injector cleaner still in the tank at the time. A dirty injector was on the list to check.

Another tidbit which may be common knowledge here, but I'll contribute anyway: you can get Subaru electronic service manuals on CD on eBay very cheap; I paid about $15 for mine. A bit slow to read in Acrobat, but worlds cheaper than what it would have cost in hardcopy. I assume it is legal copy, not pirated; the label looks legit.

Stanton

xwesx · April 2005

Stanton,

Was this "air assisted injector" for the catalytic converter, or for the fuel system?

-Wes-

mistadobolina · April 2005

thanks to all those that replied.

it probably is the cv-joint, because today i noticed that when i go over bumps while turning (i deliver mail with it, and the roads i drive are full of them lol), that theres a definite rattle going on down there. im guessing thats another sign of the problem? it doesnt feel quite as tight as it did when i first got it, but thats to be expected when it goes from an older couple using it for groceries, to well...me

and the leak was definitely oil, not the tranny. i had originally thought it might have been the tranny based on where i saw it accumilating, and the hard shifts though. hopefully that new o-ring will hold up for awhile, $160 a month gets a little pricey lol.

rob_m · April 2005

LOL, wes. I guess I was right on the mark. Maybe I can quit my day job and remotely diagnose Subies. Rob M.

m1ax · April 2005

A mechanic finally found the trouble related to the whining I was hearing in the engine compartment of my 2003 H6 Outback. It was a bearing inside the automatic transmission. Needless to say that it will cost me a few hundred bucks, since it isn't on guarantee anymore (it is a rebuilt).

Well, I just hope that it will run like new.

Thanks for those of you who tried to help.

M1ax

stantont · April 2005

I assumed it was for the cat, and the Auto Zone guy thought the same, but not so. According to the manual this car uses "air-assisted" injectors, in which air picked up from the idle speed controller is sent to the injector nozzles, to improve fuel atomization at idle and light-load conditions. The amount of air is controlled by both the idle speed controller and by an air injection solenoid. The injectors receive the greatest amount of air at idle, then less above idle. There may also be a temp component to this as well; the manual doesn't say.

There's a pic of this injector in the manual, and it has a small "shroud" on the injector tip, with fuel injected from the top, which mixes with air from a port in the side, then the mix shoots out the bottom. Clever design.

The manual said these injectors are used only on auto trans cars, but then at another point says all California-spec cars, both auto and stick, used them. (This was for the 2002; for all I know, they may all do it now.)

After getting the error code, I checked the solenoid and hoses for plugging and dirt, but they were fine. But the shrouded injector tip design reinforced my guess that a bit of built-up fuel crud (gum and varnish) had sluffed off one or more injector tips as a result of the fuel system cleaner I still had in the tank, causing the temporary condition that set the error code. Anyway, the CEL light is off and the engine runs like silk (well, very smooth for a four-cylinder, anyway), so all is fine.

Stanton

occking · April 2005

Have a 05 outback 2.5i. For years, for whatever vehicle I have owned, always changed oil at 3000 miles. Maybe a bit unnecessary as most of my miles are highway ones, but have never had any major mechanical problems with engine (last problem was 1974 Pontiac "Grandville" but that was corrected under warranty.

At any rate, when I bought this vehicle got a good deal on 100,000 mile extended warranty, -0- deductible for $899.

I have my car in for 3rd oil change today, 9200 miles (had a deal with free oil changes for one year so why not continue to do them often). The dealer trying to tell me to "maintain warranty" next time I am in they want to perform "Service B" (recommended at 7500 miles) for which they charge $99.95. That includes oil & filter, install BF MOW supplement, check fluid levels, inspect hoses, tires, rotate, install BF fuel system treatment, battery service, lube locks & hinges, inspect drive axle boots, brakes exhaust, steering, test vehicle emissions & wash & vacuum Suggested I need to do this to maintain warranty. Their Service "C" recommended at 15,000 miles is somewhate more extensive & the cost is $225. They do the same stuff again & turn up the vehicle including replacing spark plugs, etc. (why would this have to be done at 15,000 miles). Then for the Service "D" recommended at 30,000 miles they hit you for $420

Other than frequent oil changes, what other work is absolutely necessary to maintain the warranty? All comments would be appreciated.

kende · April 2005

Hello,

I've been reading through posts, and you seem to be a well spoken fellow..

By chance, would you happen to know the location of the 0@ sensor & Knock sensor on an 97' 2.5 Outback ??

My error codes state that they need replacement..

Thanks for the help, Ken De..

rob_m · April 2005

Some dealers are quick to over maintain vehicles. Translates to more dollars in their pocket. The actual maintenance schedule is in the vehicle manual, or on mysubaru.com. There are 'severe' maintenance plans which half all the recommended intervals. I am not convinced that normal highway driving would be considered severe.

Performing unnecessary services to "maintain your warrantee", is pure BS.

My 99 GT has 122k on the bare minimum service intervals. Oil Change at 3-4k, rotate tires (at a local tire shop - $15) at 7.5k, and regular 15,30,60k services. The only deviation is that I have all fluids changed every 30k (thanks Paisan!). Other than a couple oil leaks, and the power antenna breaking, there have been no repairs or problems. The car runs as good as the day I bought it. Just my opinion. Rob M.

sevenride · April 2005

I just got an Outback Wagon XT. Great so far, but the heated seats seems to be intermittent. Does anyone know if the heated seats are on a timer, or are turned off by some other trigger such as temperature, cabin heat, etc.? The manual mentions nothing but how to turn them on and a timer for the defroster.

starwind · April 2005

One body shop quoted $400 for replacing decals on both sides. $140 for parts. Labor was high because he wasn't sure how long it would take to remove the old decal. Another shop thought they would be in the $300 range.

I am also exploring just removing the decal altogether. It would be cheaper, but may look odd, and the paint may be a different color underneath the decal, due to being protected from sun damage. (The car is dark blue.)

stantont · April 2005

I think the 97 used the Phase 1 DOHC engine, which is not covered in detail in my manual. Others here have far more Subie experience than I, but my knock sensor is on the driver's side top of the engine, below and alongside the throttle body. O2 sensors are always screwed into the exhaust system and look sort of like a large spark plug. My engine uses two, one upstream of the cat and one downstream. Don't know about yours. Sorry!

Stanton

xwesx · April 2005

Stanton, Ken De:

The O2 sensors are located and look as Stanton described on the '97. I am not sure about the knock sensor as I haven't hunted it down. If I think about it, I can check in my Haynes book for '96-'98s and see what it says....

-Wes-

xwesx · April 2005

You are right that removing them looks "odd," at least at first. But only at the junctions between the rear doors and the wheel well. Other than that, I think it looks fine. There is no noticable difference in the hue of the paint between where the sticker covered and did not cover on my car, but who knows, climate could affect that here in the far north. I wash/wax my car once a year (usually... .see what I get for breaking routine?!!) so paint-wise, it doesn't get the best of care. You may want to clean up the spot that peeled and polish/wax it to see if there is discoloration of the exposed paint. If so, replacement is probably the way to go for you. Even $400-500 is not too bad of an investment considering they will probably last you another 10 years if you keep it that long. Just go easy on the pressure washing!

I do not think you are unreasonable to consider replacing the decals, it just was not my priority....

kende · April 2005

Thanks guys, I received the O2 & the Knock Sensor in the mail today via NAPA On-Line.

Stuck my head under the hood and saw the O2 Sensor on the passenger side before the converter ( thats the one that's failing ).

Haven't located the knock sensor yet, but it's bolted to the block somewhere !!!!

I appreciate your input SWEXS & Stanton...

stantont · April 2005

One of the things that really struck me as a new owner of a Subaru has been the deliberate location and design of parts to make repair and maintenance as easy as possible. This is in sharp contrast to many other, often well-respected makes. Many years ago, I helped a friend replace the alternator on a Honda Prelude. We had to remove part of the front suspension to get it out. It took us all day Saturday and part of a Sunday. My 2001 Accord was laid out better, but it was still clear that ease of service was not a major priority for Honda.

Last week I decided to change the headlight bulbs in my 10-year-old Ford Aerostar - they were getting pretty weak, a result of plastic lenses getting yellow/foggy and bulbs getting dim with age. At the parts store I found Sylvania XV bulbs that claimed to be up to 20% brighter, so figured I'd install them on the Subie as well - at $9 each, why not? It took 2 hours with screwdrivers, Torx driver and lots of cursing to swap the bulbs in the Aerostar, involving removing the headlight /parking light trim surrounds and the grille. It took about 3 minutes with no tools AT ALL to swap bulbs in the Subie. Several of the Aerostar's fasteners were plastic things that were probably easy/cheap to install at the factory, but stubborn and break-prone 10 years later.

The Subie air filter, fuel filter, belt adjustment points, alternator, etc., are all easy to get to. Spark plugs seemed hard until I pulled out the air induction box and windshield washer reservoir (two screws each), then they were easy. To get to the Aerostar's plugs, you have to jack up the front end and reach in over the top of the tires to get the front four, then pull the "doghouse" cover inside the car to get the back two. And changing plugs in my 1990 Taurus SHO was a three hour process involving scraped knuckles and every flex extension tool in my socket set! Recently, when a CEL code in the Subie referred me to the air assisted injection system, its solenoid was right up on top of the engine, removed with two screws. Wow!

If you don't work on your own car, this may seem irrelevant to you. But if you prefer to do your own maintenance, this matters a lot. And even if you pay to get work done, it is more likely to be done right if the poor mechanic doesn't have to scrape off all his knuckles to do the job.

Stanton

mdgdesigns · April 2005

I need help in trying to figure out a problem.
I hope I am submitting my question to the right spot! My mechanic and I are completely stumped.

I have a 97' outback legacy wagon - 2.5 liter 4 cylinder, awd, abs, 140K on it.

Every time it rains, I get stranded!
We have replaced a lot of stuff at this point. Over the course of the last month, we have replaced the cat converter, both o2 sensors, the ignition coil pack, the spark plugs and wires, and the fuel filter - and threw an injection system cleaning treatment in for good measure. My mechanic and I are runing out of ideas, and I am desperate to figure out how to fix this thing - I love this car :-(

When it rains, or if I go through a puddle, I am done in about 5 minutes after I go through it. In a heavy rainstorm, about 10 minutes into I am done. I will get to a stop sign and its all over. The car sputters and jerks, will not respond when I step on the gas and will stall. I can start it - it starts like a dream - but it wont stay running. No fun!

The first time I got stranded (during a heavy rain), I was told it was cat converter/o2 related. We changed that.

The next time I got stranded, again during heavy rain, we let it sit from about 8 at night til 3 the next day. I managed to get it about 2 miles, and it started jerking again. Thats when we found a parking lot, and changed all the plugs, wires and coil pack.

The next time i got stranded during light rain - found a parking lot again and let it sit. We went back the next day, and I managed to get it the 5 miles back to the house. We changed the fuel filter. That was about 6 days ago.

It rained tonight for the first time since. It died in traffic on me, and once again, i found myself on the side of the road, stalling out, jerking, sputtering, and not moving. I limped it about a mile, it quit completely. I pushed it into a parking lot and with my mechanic on the phone, managed to get it started and wiggled every wire I could see. Nothing. After about 30 minutes, I hoped whatever it was was dry, as it was starting to smooth out again. But it didnt last - I made it about another mile and had to leave it in a parking lot and call for help. We went back a few hours later to check on it, but things are aparently not dry enough. I came home carless.

We have racked our brains, and hoping that someone on this site may have a few suggestions... a few people though maybe vaccum hose, but we have checked that. Besides, it only happens when it rains - our guess is electrical. Maybe a fuel injector malfuntion or short, maybe the alternator is going - maybe another wire we havent thought of. I am desperate! whatever ideas anyone may have, I sure would love to hear.

Thanks in advance for whatever help you can offer. Up til a month ago this was the most dependable vehicle I have ever owned, and I am heartbroken at the thought of having to get rid of this car.
:sick:

c_hunter · April 2005

Check the wiring going to the fuel pump (in the tank).

Similar problems will happen if the pump craps out for any reason, but the only thing about the fuel pump that would be related to rain would be wiring.

The other thing to try -- on a dry day, start the car and let it idle. Strategically spray water here and there and let it soak until the problem happens. You should be able to isolate the problem area if you are careful, and trace it from there.

All this assumes it is truly related to water, but I wonder if that is a red herring....

c_hunter · April 2005

Honda is the worst for ease of routine maintenance. I always have had problems changing the oil filters on my Hondas, in fact it's damn near impossible on my wife's Acura. On my Subarus, it has been a piece of cake.

Craig

stantont · April 2005

Yep. And trans oil change, rear diff gear lube change: everything I have had to do on the car has been straightforward. I did brake pads (though only the rears were really worn), and it also was really simple. Even the fasteners used look like they will be solid and easy to handle after many years, unlike some of the plastic "screws" used on others, which turn brittle and fracture over time.

Very refreshing after struggling with some of the others.

Stanton

mdgdesigns · April 2005

re: red herrings and water...
I would agree with you on the water being a red herring, but I have been stranded during the last 4 rainstorms in the area.

I might also add that the simple fact of having the car get rained on or sprayed with a hose is not enough to do it - It sat in a rainstorm all day yesterday. And started and ran fine until I got a few miles up the road and went through some puddles.

Also, while I had it running with the hood up, I placed my hand on fuel line, the side coming from the pump. It was rhythmically pulsing, like I would expect - no jerkiness in the feed of the fuel.

I am thinking electrical... today once the thing dries out a bit, we plan to get it running and spray the alternator with a mist bottle - that and a few other things.

garandman · April 2005

This may be true for some routine maintenance items, but you will find many ongoing maintenance issues that are more difficult or require special tools. As one example, the Subaru has two headgaskets, both prone to failure in the '90's vehicles and an open question on the newer ones.

I'll accept Honda's filter issues in return for their reliability and resale value. I have a 97 OBW with 157,000 miles on it, and it's been a good car but our new Accord EX-L V6 has 75 more HP and a significant portion of the interior volume. With Nokian snow tires it went everywhere the Subaru did this winter.

mdgdesigns · April 2005

you can easily remove the decal yourself with a substance called Un-Du - its an adhesive release made for scrapbooking believe it or not - check your local Michaels craft store for it. You might need a couple of bottles dep on the size of your decal, but this stuff has been great for removing bumper stickers and the like - I would say try it, its about 7 bucks for a big bottle.

ateixeira · April 2005

Subaru also put a yellow lid where all the fluids go, even the out-of-sight transmission oil cap.

The only hard part to access are the spark plugs, especially on the more narrow Forester/Impreza. But even on the Legacy, you have to remove part of the intake and the windshield washer reservoir just to get to them.

-juice

kens · April 2005

I wonder if it has anything to do with water being ingested by the hood scoop. Just a wild guess since it seems like your problems are rain-related.

Ken

stantont · April 2005

Well, actually the Honda V6 has two head gaskets as well. ;-) And if you think they are perfect, search the Honda Accord threads for problems with the automatic transmissions, or the Toyota threads for oil sludge...

Interesting choices and priorities: you just bought a new Accord, and I just sold an '01 Accord EXV6 to get an '02 Legacy L wagon. The Honda was a fine car, but not perfect; we had a few glitches to get fixed, but fortunately none was expensive. I hope we get similar service from the Subie.

We could talk back and forth about why one or the other is better for our particular purposes and we could never agree because our priorities differ, but my original points still stand: Honda sells the "car as refrigerator", wherein they don't encourage the owner to do their own maintenance. Open the Honda's hood and you see a smooth, stylish engine cover and a battery and an air filter box; little else. They even put a plastic cover over the center of the V6 so it looks like a monolithic appliance and hides many parts. Subaru puts lots of stuff out so its easy to find and easy to work on. Subie's fuel filter is up top alongside the air filter; Honda's is inside the fuel tank(!) The list goes on and on.

Stanton

emmanuelchoke · April 2005

My 2000 GT did the same thing. If the ONLY code to show is P0420, chances are there is a leak in the exhaust system somewhere. Not difficult or expensive to repair. Most likely a bad gasket or loose bolts.

xwesx · April 2005

I would say the same thing.... it is either something to do with excess moisture getting into the intake or an electrical problem related to the UNDERCARRIAGE of the car more likely than in the upper area of the engine compartment. I say this simply because you have the problem with puddles as well as with rain, and it is less likely (isn't it?) that water makes it all the way up into the engine compartment going through puddles. Is it possible that the ECU unit is having issues with moisture? I think the electrical to the fuel pump and the intake are the best bets right now. Maybe its a problem with the MAS.... does any one know if the MAS is sensitive to moisture content? I can't imagine why the problem would have started so suddenly (if it is an air intake problem) without a MAS issue unless there was something drastic that would allow moisture to suddenly get into the intake. The intake does route through the inside of the right fender... maybe something happened in there and the plasic on the intake plumbing cracked or split open? Or maybe a bad seal there?

I know we can solve this issue - I don't think it is a ghost.

ateixeira · April 2005

That's what I call them, even Subaru has resorted to using these covers on the H6 and the 2.5T. I expect that eventually they'll be universal. Manufacturers aren't trying to make it easy for the Do-it-yourselfer any more.

Kia is funny, one of their covers makes its V6 look like it's mounted longitudinally even thoug it's not! They copy Audi/Subaru, but the actual engine is transversely installed.

-juice

stantont · April 2005

I'll suggest a variation on one already presented. Is it possible to get the car on a lift and then turn a hose on parts of the undercarriage? That would mimic the effect of running through puddles and in the rain, while running a hose at the topside may not have any effect until the water dripped down to the problem point.

In all this, I assume all fender liners, etc., are still intact; otherwise a minor puddle could put water in lots of places you might not expect, such as the air intake, etc. Please check this carefully. My '02 Legacy came without one of the plastic covers under the engine compartment, causing dirt to appear in all sorts of funny places on top of the engine. I got underneath and found the tiny parts of the cover left after the previous owner had ripped it off on a curb or big rock.

I am inclined to suspect some component or part of the wiring harness that is exposed on the underside of the car. I had a wiring gremlin on my old SHO that drove us crazy for a while: the a/c compresson fuse would blow while driving the car. But when I put in a new one, the engine would run and idle indefinitely without problem. But as soon as you drove off, the fuse blew. Eventually, I found that part of the wiring harness behind the engine had become chafed by a metal bracket on the firewall, and had rubbed through the a/c wiring insulation. At idle, no problem. But as soon as the engine rocked in its mounts under torque, it contacted the chafed wire and blew the fuse.

I would definitely focus on the underside of the car, with the car on a rack or over a pit, and push/pull/wiggle every wire, hose, or connector I could get my hands on. Look for chafed/split boots over connectors. Run a hose on everything.

Let us know what you find.

Stanton

francophile · April 2005

They're not condoms, they're facades.

In the case of Kia, falsies.

-wdb

starwind · April 2005

How have people repaired the silver paint on the center caps on the OEM Outback alloy rims?
If you painted them, how did you make sure the paint would stick? Could you find a good color match?
If you replaced them, where is a cheap source?

stantont · April 2005

Is that right, xwesx - does the air intake come through the fender on that model? If that is so, it becomes a prime suspect.

I apologize for leaping to a hypothesis, but water into the air intake would be consistent with the observed behavior of the car. Driving through water (but not standing in the rain, even overnight) would put water into the intake, eventually saturating the air filter so it wouldn't flow enough air to keep the engine running, so the engine stalls. Then after the car dies, air seeps into the filter box providing enough air to start the car, but as soon as the engine is running, it runs out of air again and stalls again. Or perhaps enough water gets past the filter to wet the MAF sensor and throw the readings off. Again, on restart, the heated wire mesh in the MAF dries itself until you drive over water again. Does that logic hold up, guys?

Car manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to keep water out of the air intake. My '02 Legacy air intake system is fairly typical: it takes in air high up under the leading edge of the hood and is entirely contained within the engine compartment. It has drain holes in the underside of the entry scoop to handle rain and spray that get in, then again further downstream near the resonance box. Those holes are in parts of the system that are large in cross-section so air flow is slow enough to let droplets settle out.

A leak or a broken plastic part are certainly feasible on an 8-year-old car, and especially suspect if the air intake system runs through the fender well where it is subjected to lots of spray from the front tire.

Stanton

95legacy · April 2005

You may want to look around your EGR valve also. I'm thinking Stanton may be on to something though.

Is your mechanic a "Subaru" mechanic? It sounds like you get along with him but, if you need to come here with questions he can't answer you may want to go somewhere else. Dealers do charge more (sometimes) but, with good reason. They send their mechanics to classes and they're constantly updated.

I don't know if you listen to NPR but if this continues to be a problem for much longer you could call Click and Clack from "Car Talk". 1-888-CAR-TALK. You just leave a detailed message of your problem and they call you back if they want you to go on air.

Colby

xwesx · April 2005

Well, it does go through the fender AREA on the '96, so I would guess that it is highly likely the design is the same on the '95 and probably (possibly?) also on the 97-99 (are we talking about a 95 or was it a 97? A '95 is, at minimum, 10 years old at this point....). But, it is not normally subject to direct spray from the wheel area because there is a shield separating the tire area from the "inside" of the fender and engine compartment area. The intake filter housing bolts onto the passenger side engine compartment and fits into a 'hole' in the sheet metal. From here, there is another piece (probably somewhat U shaped?) that connects the lower air filter housing intake port to the intake opening. This piece, the "suspect," runs inside the cavity created by the fender/wheel area shield/engine compartment convergence. The intake opening is mounted between the cross member at the front of the hood area and the other, forward, opening of this hidden U piece. It is held on by only one small bolt mounting the intake to the cross member just above the passenger side headlight housing. Please pardon me if the names of all these parts are not "technically" correct... hopefully the description is still understandable!

So, my thought is that if something is failing with the "shield" in the wheel well, then there could be additional water getting into the cavity that holds this intake tube. If the joints are not good between this piece and the intake opening or air filter housing, or if there is a crack in the tube itself, then sufficient water could get in the intake to cause problems per Stanton's description. In fact, the way Stanton described it makes me think that the intake could more and more be the cause of this problem.....

anthony_cheng · April 2005

I locked myself out of my car and the person helped me unlock the car, but damaged the front windshield.

2 Questions.

1. Does the dot pattern around the windshield serve any function? Or is it just some way to tell that the car has the original windshield?

2. Do the windshield people know that when they replace my windshield, it should have the wiper de-icer?

3. Any one recommend a windshield company in the San Francisco Bay Area (Pleasanton)?

Thanks.

jfl · April 2005

AAA in northern Calif uses Safelite Glass. My replacement windshield also has the dot pattern to reduce glare.

They send installers to your home or workplace to do the repair. They ask for all the details when you schedule the appointment.

HTH,

Jim

paisan · April 2005

Have one on my '00 Trooper, as well as my '94 Legacy and my '92 SVX. Never really gave me any problems working on them though. Nothing under them needed to be serviced. The new armada also has similar covers...

-mike

jimha · April 2005

Why do you have a rebuilt transmission in your Subaru Outback Wagon H6 2003 ???

kmclean · April 2005

Greetings, all,

Now that the nicer weather is returning, I'm considering a project that the boss has requested: changing the heated mirror switch (on the driver's arm rest) since she misses the pilot light (which died last autumn). Car is a 2k OB Ltd wagon.

This will be my first shot at this multi-switch panel (which is plood in my car), and I'd like to know where to start the pry-off process for this little plood trim piece (rather than use the old trial-and-error method and crack the little sucker).

Also, if anyone has performed this same switch swap-out and has some useful tips, I'd appreciate it!

Thanks in advance,

Ken in sunny/rainy/snowy/windy Seattle (psychotic month)

paisan · April 2005

Is the switch by itself? It may be part of the panel that is behind there, if so you may need to replace the whole switch panel. I never removed it on a Legacy, but on the Impreza you unscrew a screw in the grab hole and then just pry it out.

-mike

catmandu · April 2005

New 05 Outback owner. Anyone remember the post on disconnecting the seat belt chime? Thanks, Mel

xwesx · April 2005

I think it went:

Insert key, turn to "On" position
Latch/unlatch driver seatbelt 20 times
Turn key to "off" position, remove

You should be able to do a search and locate it (them) quite rapidly.

catmandu · April 2005

Awesx, Didnt work , will do a search , Thanks, Mel

occking · April 2005

I haven't tried it yet either but was told connect & disconnect 20 times with key on, but do that within 30 seconds!

Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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