GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana

montanafan · March 2002

They are out there. As with the Front Wheel Drive versions, the hard parts is finding the right color, equipment and seat combo. The All Wheel Drive hardware is the same that is used on the Pontiac Aztek and Buick Rendevous. I watch the Aztek posts here at edmunds and do not recall any problems. You may want to ask there.

hhua1 · March 2002

We took our 2000 SILO to the dealer anyway, and it was determined that the leak were from the oil pan gasket and the rear main seal...The deal replaced the the gasket and seal...We shall see if that fixed the problem.

About the leaks from the lower manifold gasket (the dealer said it it oil, not coolant, leaks)...Since it is not really wet, the dealer won't work on it...We will have to keep monitoring it.

A comment about the dealer work...We have to bring the van back the second time, for few minor parts weren't put back or fastened. It was a sloppy job from the technician. They also didn't do the alignment after the repairs, the steering wheel was off center, alignment was done after second visit.

This was the second time that we have to take the van back to fix/correct the problems that were introduced from the first visit...We always nervous to have the car in for service and end with new problems when we get it back...And that's what we call quality services???

mizeuml · March 2002

Good luck trying to fix the oil leak. I was in the dealer shop 5 times with under 26k miles trying to stop the oil leak on my 99 Montana. The dealer tried replacing the oil pan and gasket, but the problem came back. I tried to get them to take the van back under the Lemon Law, but they told me the problem was oil seepage and that it was normal. I kept taking it back and finally they quit trying to fix it. I then went to another Pontiac dealer and they tried fixing it. They replaced the rear main seal first and the problem went away for about 10k miles. Then it started again and the dealer tried the oil pan and gasket. This worked for awhile and then it started again. After about 8 attempts between two dealers, I have given up and decided to live with it. It does not leak bad enough to drip on the garage floor. I change my own oil and just clean the oil pan good at each oil change. I don't think it is normal, but just got tired of fighting with them. I now have 67k miles and it has not gotten any worse.

hhua1 · March 2002

It is sad to be told that oil seepage is consider as normal, and nothing we can do about it. Sorry to hear that your took many time to fix, although the fixes were only short live.

The funny thing that I noticed is that, now a day, the manufactures and the dealers seem to concern and care more about the high service rating and customer survey, but don't seem to stand by their products and only provide marginal services.

Like many people, we are more worry about our vehicle could have additional 'new' problems after a major repair from the dealer. And that is SAD.

dirkdaddy · March 2002

if it isn't dripping from your pan, your oil "leak" IS normal. main crank seals are not 100% seep-proof and 5x30 (esp. sythetic) oils are very slippery and will come past the seals a little bit. Although a oil-tight seal could be designed, GM is also watching friction, and to get gas milage they are opting toward the looser side for getting good fuel milage. The pan getting 'wet' (but not dripping) with Oil is fairly typical from the vehicles I've serviced.
Unless you're going down between changes and its getting all over the underside of the van, I think you're asking too much. The dealer did more than most would do in that instance IMHO.

Have fun and don't worry so much...

DD

kkollwitz · March 2002

I support dirkdaddy's take on this. My experience with oil is that depending on ambient temps, engine temps, type of use, oil viscosity & car mileage, oil leakage and consumption can vary widely and still be no cause for concern.

offham · March 2002

GM Part CFC100C will cost $65 and up. Try www.rockauto.com and select the ATP product for $26.31 plus shipping.

When going through the on line catalog need to select heat/ac

catam · March 2002

Dirkdaddy is right, if you are not getting any drips, just condensation on the outside of the oil pan over time this is normal. I have never worked on any vehicle of any make that did not do this.
If the condensation bothers you, either pressure wash the undercarraige periodically or use an engine degreaser and a spray hose.

indrgb · March 2002

I agree with DD for the most, however I just returned from the dealer with my '00 Silo. I saw seepage from the intake manifold and seepage on the oil pan. Neither caused oil or coolant to leak on the garage floor. They replaced the intake gasket and oil pump seal (which I assume is the drive gear probably on the top rear of the engine like my car). Both replaced under warranty and I didn't ask how many hours, but they had the van for two days. For those of you with warranties about to expire, have your van checked for leaks because it will be big $ out of warranty.

Another item I had the dealer check was the temp. gauge. This gauge never goes past the 1/4 mark. I've only had the van for 5 weeks so I don't know what it did when new, but 1/4 bothers me. Dealer said all is well. Gauge reads normal and engine operates at normal temp. I'm thinking either the thermostat opens a little early, or the gauge isn't calibrated correctly. Has anyone else noticed this?

mizeuml · March 2002

I purchased my set of Cabin Filters from Auto Zone in North Carolina. They ran $32 for the set, but are only rated for 15k miles. I think the original set of GM filters are good for 25k miles. I called several places like Advance Auto Parts and others and they were +$60 or didn't carry them. If you have an Auto Zone in your neck of the woods, try them. If they can't find them on their computer, make sure they are looking for interior filters. One person at Auto Zone told me they didn't carry them and when I talked to another person there they found them. Some of the sales folks don't know much about these type of filters.

mjb56 · April 2002

Sorry it took so long to get back. Trip to Florida to test drive the new gasket. GM has decided to cover 50% of my repair for the intake gasket. I'm satisfied with that. I asked the dealer if the gasket they were using as a replacement will meet the same fate as the old one. They assured me it would not. The van ran great on the trip, no leaks of any sort. We really like this van for tripping. Good mileage, comfortable, adequate power. Overall, it has been good to us. We've now got 49K and the vehicle is 32 months old. For those who have trouble, I suggest contacting Pontiac through their website. They seem to be more responsive than through traditional channels

thaes · April 2002

It is the mark of a great site when the users answer my questions before I ask them.

Thanks, as I am ready to change the cabin filters on my 2000 Montana. Anyone here changed the air filter (engine) on a model with the trailering package. Looks like there are 15 steps to get it out.
Thanks
Tom

indrgb · April 2002

Look at msgs 573 and 574 in the Olds Silo Column. Mine has the trailering pkg but I didn't think that made any difference to the air filter. Does it?

dirkdaddy · April 2002

Having just changed the air filters, its a 5 minute job at most, and that's if you have to vaccume out the glove box of the leaves and debris that can fall out. Be glad you don't have a Honda Van where you have to *remove* the glove box, then get a hacksaw and cut a dash strut and other gory details to change their air filter.

On my Olds, the engine temp gauge normal is exactly 1/2 way or 12o'clock.

Good idea to ask GM about the intake gasket repair (if that is what wrong on my van). Thanks for sharing that tidbit!

DD

bcd99 · April 2002

'96 Olds Cierra --1/4 is usual reading
'01 Olds Silo -- a little more than 1/4

My Silo has the trailering package. I still don't understand why the trailering pkg does not include the trailer hitch. Has anyone added this themselves, which hitch did you use, how hard/easy was it to attach and drill holes?

autolover3 · April 2002

In the GM vans, what kind of seatbelts do you have in the middle row? I am looking at pics in a brochure, and if you get the 8 seating option (ie. three seats across in the second row) it looks like you only have a lap belt in that center seat (in second row). How does this work if you have a booster seat that requires a shoulder/lap belt combo (and you want to put a child in the center second row for safety)?? Thanks in advance.

tomekk · April 2002

-> "it looks like you only have a lap belt in that center seat (in second row)"
Yes, that's correct. That was a surprise for me - didn't catch it when I was buying the van.

-> "How does this work if you have a booster seat that requires a shoulder/lap belt combo"
Well, that doesn't work... (I have 2000 Venture with 8 seats), but I happened to have a child's seat (for my 11-month old, up to 35 lbs, I think) that works with only lap belt - I lucked out.

Tomek

centarfor · April 2002

I have a Montana with 8 seats and I don't think you can put that kind of childs seat in the center middle row.

bcd99 · April 2002

Don't have the 8 seat but somewhere in the Silo book I read that you can not put a child seat in the center seat even if it just needs a lap belt. I believe it has to do with the fact that it is a split bench (2 actual seats).

pete14 · April 2002

Hello all,
I just bought a Silho premier with AWD. Didn't really need the AWD but asked myself what is the price of safety for my wife and kids, it kinda looks affordable then. Anyone have anthing to say about it? Looking for poss. but need to know the negs. as well. Any trouble? Any tech service bullitens I should know about? I'm new to the Board and didn't see too much info regarding the AWD.

Thanks in advance.

dirkdaddy · April 2002

Pete - you may know this already, but the versatrac option is the same that is on the Aztec and the Buick RDV. A much higher volume of awd's are sold under those nameplates than the vans. From what I understand the system works very well and I have not heard negatives - except that those AWD vans are hard to find!

Why ask about negatives after you bought the van? Enjoy it and quit worrying.

My favorite features are the comfortable dual power seats, the room, the MPG you get (I'm getting 23-24), the trip computer and storage, self leveling suspension, the cruising range (around 500-600 miles per tank) all the features and power gadgets and how easy it is to drive. It would be nice to have more horsepower and torque (I'll always say that) but for the purpose of a van it works great.

There are some things people don't like and you won't have to look too hard to find them. One major gripe I have is that I prefer the seat padding to be stiffer like a Honda or Mercedes, but I could have the seat modified at a shop I guess.

DD

autolover3 · April 2002

Thanks for the posts on the seatbelt question. I would have thought GM would have placed a three-point restraint in the center seat of the second row (on an 8 passenger option). Since the center is the "safest" place for kids (and adults), I would think GM would have made provisions for that. I appreciate the quick feedback to all that replied.

offham · April 2002

After 42000, the brakes were getting a little soft. My local mechanic put in new fronts and adjusted the rear. These are even better when it was out of the showroom.

I was offered new ceramic brakes for addl $10, but stuck with the basic replacement.

Just as info

dlubin · April 2002

Our car seats (the kids are forward-facing now) have both a top tether (which the center seat supports) and the LATCH system (which the seat also supports).

The center is perfectly safe - in fact it's the safest seat in the van considering its distance from the exterior on all sides. I'd highly recommend using LATCH over a seat belt any time, it's a LOT safer IMHO.

-Dan L.
'01 Montana

autolover3 · April 2002

I agree w/ you about the LATCH/tether system definitely being the safetest. What happens when a toddler outgrows the 5-point restraint system in their booster(don't they require using a three-point system from the car's seat belt to go over the booster)? I am still a definite newbie at all of these car seats. I was wondering what you think since you sound like you are familiar w/ car seats. Thanks in advance!

Also, what is the going rate for an extended warranty on a 02 Venture (2WD)? I was quote $3000 for a GM warranty (7 yr/100K/$0)and $1600 for 'another brand'. I always thought it was recommended to get the warranty w/ the manufacturer. My jaw dropped when I read the $3000 quote! That is triple than other going rates on various makes. Of course, this is probably negotiable, but my gosh! Has anyone had experience w/ this?

bcd99 · April 2002

That's the best reason to get an Olds, the waranty is already extended. Made me laugh out loud with the comment regarding GM thinking to make provisions for center child seat. That would take common sense and we know that is almost nonexistent in corporate America.

dirkdaddy · April 2002

The olds is a good one to consider with the extended warrenty built-in -- heck for $2-3k, the olds gives you tons of options standard AND the warrenty. I love the dual power 8 way front seats that are sooo easy to stay comfortable in. Resale, however, because of the brand going away, may be a consideration. If you keep vehicles a long time, its probably not a big deal.

From my readings on these forums, the priviate warrentys are hardly a bargin, most require you to pay the bills and then submit them for reimbursement, and in some cases they require you and the dealer to prove things are really broken. Coverage details (type you find out when you got to use the thing) typically folks find are not as good. And you don't know if the company will Enron on you (file bankruptsy) leaving you with a paper you can use to start a fire.

For my mind, $3000 would be better off used to fund my kids college fund. I'd take the bet that this van would not require that much in repairs in 3-5 years. You've done reasearch on which one is the most reliable (GM), why pay honda price gouging for a warrenty you'll probably not use?

FYI, these are huge profit centers for the dealerships, check the info here on Edmonds, and yes, like everything, the price is definately negotiable and can be added after the purchase from what I understand, and you can even get it mail order from out of state dealer if you find a deal.

DD

autolover3 · April 2002

Excellent points. I forgot about the reimbursement protocols for off-brand warranty work. That could get you burned. I'll go check out the Olds. Wish they had a rear seat entertainment option with quad captain seats. Thanks for the input.

missedbass · April 2002

If you are buying new,then buying an Olds with the extended warranty is the way to go. I bought used and paid $1600 for a 6yr/100k. 0 deduct. warranty. I had the van for a year and had a leaking rack replaced. $800 repair covered no problems. My opinion is that the cars today are too high tech for the average person to work on. Parts and labor costs are high and expensive tools are needed for trouble shooting. As for rack assembly covered under warranty it will probably go back to get replaced again if the hissing noise when I turn the wheel doesn't go away. I think it is air in the system but the dealer will replace it. If and when the intake manifold gasket needs replacement, it will be covered too. There's the $1600 that I paid for the warranty so any future repairs will be money in my pocket.

offham · April 2002

The ATP make arrived this week and look identical the the GM/3M ones that are more than twice the price of the ATP.

Change once a year seems fine. Quite a lot of debris in there from leaves etc.

mobilmac · April 2002

I noticed at every oil change in my olds silho that i was losing about a pint, i thought it was weeping out the overflow hose.

At 45k miles on it, my biggest beef was how quickly the front pads and rotors wore out. Mostly highway miles, no aggressive braking. That was 2 set of pads/rotors i put on it, not including the orignals.

I did expect to be able to turn the rotors, they were always out of spec for turning,i had to buy new ones each time. So when its time for a brake job, buy the better pads, and replace the rotors

All in all, we really loved that vehicle. This was for fellow triplet owners, our history with
our silhouette. continue next post.

mizeuml · April 2002

I recently had my front brake pads replaced for the first time on my '99 Montana. We got 65k miles out of the pads, which I thought was great considering my wife is either on the gas or the brakes at all times. My mechanic left the rotors alone, said they were ok and that the new pads would form to them. The back brakes were ok and nothing was done to them. My mechanic said the back pads should last through two sets on front pads. I did notice on our last trip that the back left brake made a growling sound as I let off the brakes while in line at McDonalds. The sound only occurred while creeping along slowly and stopped after a second. I checked them and they have plenty of pad left. I wonder if the return spring is getting relaxed and not pulling the pads back quickly.

One thing about the front brakes worth noting. The left front inside pad was almost completely gone, but the left side outside pad and both pads on the front right side had plenty of pad left. The wear indicator is located on the outside and had a long way to go before it would start squealing. Don't wait for this indicator to start rubbing to replace the pads or you may be in trouble.

jpnmass · April 2002

Looking into buying a Silo and was wondering about how car seats (under 40 lb child) and booster seats (over 40 lb child) work in the buckets? Any one have this set-up? Thanks for the help

autolover3 · April 2002

I know you mentioned buckets w/ car seats and boosters, but I have been told that if you buy the 8 modular seating arrangement that the middle seat in the second row has only a lap belt. Once the child graduates to the booster, I do believe you have to have a three-point restraint. This means that you could not put a booster in the middle of the second row (w/ 8 modular seating arrangement). Wasn't sure if you were looking at that option. I do not own one, so you might want to get this verified by someone who does know to make sure. (Refer to postings #67-70+ to see what owners say).

yzf · April 2002

I have the 2001 Olds Silhouette with rear captains chairs and fold-flat third row. My 5 month old son's child seat (rear facing) fits quite well in the captain's chair behind the driver. The 2001 and higher Olds Silo's have LATCH compatible lower anchorages and top tether anchors for secure mounting of child seats. In fact, we purchased a special belt that is LATCH compatible so mounting the base of his rear facing infant seat was a piece of cake. The strap hooks into the lower anchorages with the strap itself going around the mounting points of the child seat. Slack is taken up with a pull strap that cinches the seat in very very tight. I know this because I can grab the base and rock the whole minivan shaking the base alone! The base itself does not move at all in the seat. I plan on using the strap and top tether anchor when my son is ready to move on to the convertible rear/forward facing seat.

BTW - this is not just a testimant to the Olds Silo. Any minivan with similar LATCH compliant anchors will work well to secure a child seat. The key is to get the right strap (mine's made by Evenflo) and hook it in securely to the child seat. I've used the strap and seat on a rental DC van with similar anchors. Also works well!

haunruh · April 2002

My friend has a 1998 Venture and has been experiencing occassional steering lockup during sharp turns. Every time so far he has been able to force the wheel out of the lockup but is concerned this may eventually be permanent. Is this a known or previously reported problem?
Thanks, Harry

catam · April 2002

I have never heard of this problem on any of the GM vans. That is obviously a serious problem that needs to be addressed immediately. I would suggest looking at all of the tie rod linkage and ball joints, then possibly the steering rack itself. Good luck.

jpnmass · April 2002

Thanks to those who responded about my question about child seats in the rear buckets.

missedbass · April 2002

check the power steering pump fluid level and see if it low. It sounds like the rack assembly needs replacement and it should be done ASAP.

shimmyboy · April 2002

Considering a new 2002 Olds Silhouette. Living in Central Ohio, is the extra cost of the AWD justified or am I wasting my money? Is the FWD w/traction control fine for bumping around town (or highway) even in inclement weather?

Thanks so much for your opinions.

jpnmass · April 2002

Looking to get a 2002 Silo soon. Anyone know if a 2002 could still be ordered? Or is production shifting to the 2003's already?

Thanks for the input.

dirkdaddy · April 2002

I was cleaning my van last night and tried flipping back the 3rd seat from the forward position and it was going sort of sideways. After much flailing, I found out the seat bracket latch mech on the forward section has a broken weld. Looks like insufficient penetration on the weld. Anyway, I have a hobby sized miller xp170 MIG wire welder, and it looks like I'll get another chance to help pay for it! :~)

Also, I'm going to try to tap into the wiring harness to get to the rear speaker wires in order to drive a small subwoofer. I'm guessing the wires go through the heater/AC/aircompressor panel in the back, and since there's also a solid power feed for the aux power outlet, it should make wiring it fairly straight forward. Getting the panel off requires star drive to remove the rear seat belt hanger, and some special tool to remove the plastic cover clips w/o damaging them. Anyway, if I get to this and finish it, I'll try to post some pics. Although its not the simplist thing to do...

Host - some items I'd suggest for the to-do list at Edmonds:

* Text searchable BY MESSAGE not just topic
* Easier way to post pictures - the current way seems like too much work

Thanks!!

DD

stever · April 2002

The search engine is being worked on, or so they keep telling me :-)

The message box uses most of the usual html formatting stuff, so the image screen tag is what works. Too expensive to let y'all park pics on a server here and link to them that way - got something else in mind?

Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

offham · April 2002

I guess it was just a matter of time before the plastic handle went on the inside of the rear hatch. I now feel like a real Venture owner.

Smart dealer always has them stock. Maybe Chevy should come out with a two pack, then I would always have spare.

My final thought that if I had married someone over 5'6", they wouldn't have had to use it anyway and just grab the rear edge of the door.

Such is life !

stever · April 2002

Guess who made the Top Ten?

#2 Oldsmobile Silhouette
#5 Pontiac Montana
#8 Chevrolet Venture

Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

hhua1 · April 2002

The rear main seal oil leaks of our 2k Silo is fixed, the alignment corrected...However, we have to bring the van back to the dealer two more times.

The first time to confirm that the transmission fluid leaks due to the seal and the dip stick tube has a small punctured. The seal was replaced but the dip stick tube has to be ordered.

We brought the van back again for the dip stick tube replacement. After I got the van back, to my surprise, the replacement tube doesn't look new (I can see the "water" dirt marks all over the tube).

Also transmission dip stick now has a black plastic ball about .25 inch on top of the full cross line mark on the dip stick. I don't remember the black ball was there before. The fluid seems a bit over filled, about .5 inch above the full mark (no bubbles seen).

I am now not too comfortable with the tube and the dip stick, but at long there is no more leaks I will not want to have my van back to the dealer.

A question, does anyone has a GM's triplets that as a transmission dip stick with a little black ball attached?

Thanks and sorry for the long post.

mizeuml · April 2002

I checked my '99 Montana and there was no ball on my xmsn dip stick.

I replaced the engine air filter today for the second time. Boy is it a pain. I was able to do it without having to take anything loose like the rubber hose coming off it, but it is hard to squeeze the new filter in.

I noticed the outside covering of one of the throttle cables was cracked. There are two cables and it looks like the hood is pushing them down when the hood is closed. It has cracked the outside covering right at the end where is it attached to the black bracket. Seems to work ok for now, but may have the dealer look at it when I take the van in next.

I have a question for the folks that have replaced the ignition coil packs due to corrosion. Was the posts where the spark plugs wire attach rusted? I replaced my spark plug wires a couple months back because two of the posts were rusted and the ends of the plug wires were rusted also. I wonder if the rusted posts were a sign that the coil packs are corroded also? When you first start the van and don't give it gas, the idle speeds up then slows downs, then speeds up, then slows down, etc.

Thanks,
Matt

mjb56 · April 2002

My coil posts were corroded as well as the spark plug wire ends. However, only 2 of the three coils were corroded. The others were like new. Figure that one out!

mizeuml · April 2002

Hello mjb56. Were the corroded posts ONLY on the two coils that were corroded? In other words, did the GOOD coil have any corroded posts? My van had 2 corroded posts, each on a different coil pack. I wonder if two of my coil packs are corroded also.

Thanks for your help.

dirkdaddy · April 2002

If your motor is not getting sufficient spark, your effiency will suffer. Keep an eye on your MPG and the engine idle. If MPG drops and idle is rough, you must have some problem. A 6 cyl with 1 cyl not really pulling will be noticable I'd imagine. I've been able to readily notice when an injector was off, same sort of thing.

I would just clean off the corrosion, put on some di-electric grease on all terminals (for preventing future corrosion) and drive it. Although some coils have failed from what you read, they are usually bullet-proof.

DD

GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles