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Comments
1) Rev when at low rpm (for example, i was decreasing in speed on the street and then suddenly did a short burst of acceleration or full-throttle from 1k rpm)
2)Rev when increasing in speed (for example, pushing down the pedal to reach 3k rpm and then flooring it or full-throttle. This is like gradually increasing in speed and then flooring it to reach 5k rpm, then letting go of the throttle.
Which of these would you think is proper to help seat the rings better? I dont know if one or the other is detrimental to the engine or not.
#1 is quicker to reach the higher rpms like about 1 second, #2 took me about 3 seconds to reach the higher rpms.
My concern is that i've read that it was detrimental to go full-throttle from low rpms and also that its not good to do a long sustained full-throttle.
High :confuse:
What I'm doing on my new car is full throttle bursts between 2000 rpm and about 4,000 rpm. Also trying to do a lot of downhill coasting to create lots of engine vacuum (but be careful not to over-rev on the downhill!).
High
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I guess i was just a little concerned about how to throttle up the engine for quick bursts, like if i were suppose to either bring my engine up to a certain rpm like your 2k rpm and then quickily flooring it to 4k rpm and quickly releasing throttle OR suddenly flooring it after my foot is off the pedal (when engine was decreasing in speed). I hope im describing it more clearly.
Some people that i've got a chance to speak with, told me not to do full-throttle from a low rpm like not to floor it from 1k rpm. You're suppose to gradually bring up the rpm to let's say 2k rpm and then floor it to 4k rpm and quickly letting it go.
I was doing both but now mostly trying to gradually bring up the rpm to the 1/3 range (1.5k-2k rpm) and then flooring it from there. Hope im doing this right?
High
Are they more than plausible-sounding wishful thinking, I wonder?
I'm breaking in the engine exactly as he says and going to synthetic at 3,500 miles. That's my plan and I'm stickin' to it. I can already feel the engine loosening up (in a good way).
I think seals in the newer engines of today can withstand leaking and synthetic oils better. Well i changed my factory oil to havoline at 400, will do another at 1200 and finally at 3k, i will be switching over to a synthetic. Maybe i will be switching over at 4k instead hahah (since it's between 3k and 5k). If i decide to go 4k, i will do another oil change at 2400 miles instead of 3k.
To avoid excessive friction and wear, i will decrease the number of times to do the quick bursts and decel as miles pile up. I planned to do these break-in methods until 2k-3k (but will occasionally do the quick bursts as mileages goes up). Does this sound about right to you Mr_Shiftright?
High
Have you seen any other independent sources that back him up?
And how can you compare your personal results, when you don't know how your engine would be if it were broken-in using the older, gentler method?
Sounds like a leap of faith is required.
For me, i dont know jack squat about engines, i go by credible sources and try to learn how engines work by other people's expertise and advice. I believe the first 100 miles is very critical because the seal is trying to seat and it's using the oil to seat it. There needs to be alot of pressure and lubrication (vacuum as they call it). That's why you can smell the burning of the oil in the first 100 miles. I'll give you an example, ok lets say you want to blow up a balloon, if you don't blow it hard enough and not quickly enough, you'll never get the balloon to be big the way you wanted it to. IF not alot of air is pushed in quickly, air will come back out into your mouth and you'll have a biggo cheek right haha? There are other examples but this is all i can think of right now. Good example huh? I hope im the originator to this analogy :shades: .
My friend who runs a mechanic shop with his dad told me that i'm a fool to break it in hard because it's like hammering the metals very hard inside of the engine. I guess it does require some faith. Running it hard for a few thousand miles seem to fit my beliefs so ill keep doing it.
High
It might not be GREAT science but it seems more than a leap of faith to me...I mean, he's busted down 300 engines and he's got comparison photos with a "control" engine that wasn't broken in with his method.
And I also gave him credit for saying right off the bat that this was a "controversial" topic.
All in all, I felt he was a seeker of truth in the true tradition of pursuing facts to get a conclusion---not like most of these "claimants" who first come up with a conclusion and then seek only those facts that support their conclusion.
Anyway, I'm rolling my dice on this guy...if it's a leap of faith, well so be it, and I'll take the consequences.
It makes perfect sense to me that a new engine should be subjected to both compression and high vacuum stresses.
Another reason this guy appealed to me is that I think race mechanics would probably agree with him. His "slant" on things comes of course from working mainly with very high rpm motorcycle engines----and really, many cars today share that type of engine technology.
Another, is it better to use higher octane gas vs recommended regular during hard wear-in drivings?
High
No, you use the gas the manufacturer recommends. If your car responds to a higher octane by giving slightly better performance or fuel mileage, fine you can use it if you like, but don't think it is doing your engine any "good" or that it's like a doggie treat or something--it's not.
How many miles should a new engine have before being allowed to go on a long, extended trip to the outer states(thus will have constant rpm and mph)?
High
I took it to the dealer last month, and they kept it for 4 work days. The said they used the chasis ears, and drove it a lot, but couldn't find anything within the rear suspension itself making noise (although they could hear the noise in general). They did say that they suspect that it had something to do with the gas tank - either the tank itself, or the fuel pump inside the gas tank. They went on to say that they removed the gas tank, and saw that the heat shield was 1" out of position. They repositioned the heat shield, and the noise went away for a few days, then came back.
I am supposed to drop it off with them again next week. I know that noise chasing is often tough, but if anyone has any ideas as to what may be causing this noise I would love to hear it.
High
Mustang also has bad high pitch squeak out of engine that is rpm related. tried listening though heater hose and suspect water pump area. New belt did not cure it. 84,000 miles on car. Sounds like a bearing needs oil. Will run car without belt next to eliminate crankshaft from puzzle.
Also have '87 Astro with bad vibration from speedometer probably due to cable needing grease. It only makes noise when temperature outside is below freezing. Cable disconnects from transmission easily. Can I pull it out of sleeve at trans end, grease it and get it back in without taking anything apart at the dashboard? Or does it need to be taken apart at the speedometer? For now I have disconnected it at trans, but in first drive into town the CEL came on after 9 miles. It went out after 2 more miles and has stayed off since. Was it related to no speedometer cable rotation?
Thanks
Scott
No.
"Or does it need to be taken apart at the speedometer?"
Yes.
Reach up behind the instrument cluster, depress the retaining clip, pull the outer cable casing back from the speedo head, and extract the cable.
Also crawl under the dash and make sure the rod that connects from your clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder at your firewall didn't fall out, or that the rod operating the clutch fork didn't fall out of the clutch slave.
Remove Starter 1996 Jimmy
After about 35 minutes of no trouble, the car began to lose power. I stopped for about 30 minutes, and began to drive when the car stopped completely.
The lights come on, and everything else works, but it does turns over but will not engage.
I am trying to remove the starter (as someone said it might be that or the solenoid) but can anyone give me any ideas as what is wrong? What should I try next?
First thing I'd do is test to see if you are getting fuel to the engine.
I’d appreciate any thoughts or insights, so I can better direct the mechanics working on this.
Thanks!
Ken
Come join us in theSpeed Shop Forum
MrShiftright
Host
also - is your battery and alternator sized propely for a large sink of energy (like a big amp)?
the radio unit is probably very sensitive to fluctuations in voltage, and it seems like the battery isn't supplying a regular voltage and/or filtering the output of the alternator effectively (which also has voltage regulation which may be bad).
i'd also would recommend checking battery terminal connections. make sure they are clean. make sure the battery ground strap is securly connected to the metal frame.
lastly, you could have an intermittent sink to ground or a ckt that is sinking a lot of current.
I'm now assuming that because the new switch didn't fix the problem, the problem is the motor. Power windows are no doubt more convenient than manual windows, but they're much more prone to breaking down, and they're much more expensive to repair when they do break. If I had my druthers, EVERY vehicle I own would have manual windows. Why can't auto makers build reliable power window mechanisms? Does anyone else share this passionate hatred for power windows?
Thanks for the tips on my CD/tuner head unit fluctuating. I was concerned that the alternator might be failing, but the dealership shop thought otherwise. They checked the battery and stated it was fine. I'll check the battery connections and ground strap and have the alternator checked. Thanks again!
Ken
1)removing the key from the keychain (working on the keychain is too heavy theory). RESULT=nada
2)jiggling the key and turning the steering wheel as I tried to turn the key in the ignition. RESULT=worse than nada; all this did was lock the steering wheel, and now I cannot unlock it!
3)checked the shift lever to be sure I was in park (the shift lever is on the steering column). RESULT=nada again, and I should note that I cannot move the shift lever at all.
4)bought graphite powder and graphite spray, sprayed into ignition cylinder, on key, all over self, etc. RESULT=key still will not turn, out of pocket $5, hands are covered in black stain and have black smudges on face from rubbing forehead trying to figure out what to try next. feel minor headache coming on.
5)drove to autoparts store with black stained hands and face and bought Haynes manual and 'universal ignition cylinder assembly' thinking maybe I could just replace the ignition cylinder. RESULT=customers at autostore look at me strangely and guy behind counter who sold me graphite stuff tries hard to stifle laughter.
Tortured into thinking relief is in sight since Haynes manual makes changing ignition cylinder look very easy, until I get to the part where it says that I have to turn the key to the ON position in order to slide the cylinder out. Headache is getting worse. Out of pocket another $30.
I should add that this vehicle has been cursed since day one, but mostly with electrical type gremlins. You can imagine how thrilled I am to have a new challenge...
While here in Vermont it is fairly common to have at least one if not several non-functioning vehicles in one's front yard, I would prefer to use this piece o junk to get to work as originally intended. Any suggestions on what to try next would be most appreciated.
does nissan provide a little access point (top of the steering column) for inserting the key to manually release the interlock? hondas have this feature. some other makes may also. (consult manual)
have you tried pumping the brakes a few times?
Could this be normal and that the abs is just doing its job or could it be something worse like warped rotors etc.?
This only happens during very very hard braking. Now, when i brake normaly, everything seems to be fine (like no vibration on the steering or any noises from moderate braking).
Any ideas? Thanks.
High
Generally, if you're lucky, just drain it all out, flush the tank with gas, change the fuel filter or filters, start 'er up and drive the hell out of it. It may smoke a bit and run very very rough but should clear up in a couple of minutes.
not sure your catalytic converter is going to like it, but hopefully you didn't try to drive too far on diesel fuel/gas fuel mix.
High
No. First, the RWAL system controls rear brakes only and the worst that could happen in the event of a failure is a loss of rear brakes and a low brake pedal. The front brake hydraulic system is not routed through the valve. Look for yourself by tracing the plumbing from the master cylinder. It's primary and secondary lines both go to the combination valve. From there the rear line goes to the ABS valve and out to the rear brakes, but the front lines go directly to the front calipers.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d800884a1.gif
Second, a loss of rear brakes due to an ABS pressure valve failure is almost always due to a lack of maintenance on the vehicle. If contaminants prevent the dump valve from closing, rear brake pressure will leak past the valve and enter the accumulator, resulting in no pressure to the wheel cylinders. The appropriate proactive approach would be to flush the brake hydraulic system every 2 years to remove the moisture contaminated fluid, which causes internal corrosion of hydraulic system components, and any suspended particles (which should be done on any vehicle anyway, regardless of whether it has ABS or not), not to remove the ABS pressure valve because it "might" fail.