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Oldsmobile Intrigue Maintenance and Repair

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  • when you apply medium brake pressure the car moves up and down. also the rotors are really hot after you drive it for a while. it's not the rotors or the anti lock brakes.
  • when you apply medium brake pressure the car shimmies. also the rotors are really hot after you drive it for a while. i don't think it's the rotors or the anti lock brakes.
  • oldwinooldwino Posts: 20
    Most likely it is the rotors. They will get very hot, even from normal use, but they shouldn't be glowing red or smoking. Excessive heat will warp the rotors. The front rotors and brake pads are easy to change if you're a little mechanically inclined.
  • I have a 2000 Intrigue GL. The factory radio (cassette and cd player built int) is giving me an issue. I am not sure if the radio is bad or it just came this way. Once I turn the car on and I proceed to listen to the radio, only the display and cd insert indicators light up. Why are none of the other buttons lighting up??? Is it time to replace the radio or did the car just come this way?? Also, I have factory built in steering wheel radio controls and those work fine also. Any advice would be great. Thanks !!!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Does the radio, cassette and CD work?

    Check to make sure the dimmer switch is not in the off position. I know it sounds obvious but.....
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    You may want to get the front suspension checked (wheel bearings, tie rods, sway bar, etc.). It could be the rotors as well.
  • I have 2 broken motor mounts the right front and the right rear ones, and here lately we are having problems with the check engine light coming on and the transmission acting like it is not wantin to shift from 2nd to 3rd, can the motor mounts be causeing this?
  • Hey my name is Samantha and I just bought a 2001 oldsmobile intrigue and since its been geting warmer out I realize I have a problem.....

    When I turn my AC on the driver side gets super cold but the passenger side stays HOT.... I tried turning the temp up and down and nothing works...

    All the passenger side will do is blow the same hot air temperature.

    The drivers side works just fine but I cant use my ac with the passenger vents blowing heat...

    Can someone please tell me what could the problem be??? I would love to have AC for the summer lol...

    Thanks everyone
  • oakesy25oakesy25 Posts: 2
    and then it shuts off and everything is fine.. I believe I had this fixed before.. and it had something to do with a sensor telling the engine it was overheating so the fan clicks on..??? what is the problem and can I fix it myself.. I am not working and cannot afford a $400 mechanic bill.. I am pretty handy but not super car savy
  • There is a problem with the air pump, which pumps air into the catalytic converter until it warms up. There are two valves, each of which can go bad. Replacement is about $400 parts/labor, IIRC. I've had both replaced over the last few years. My guess is that one valve is not opening completely, and thus the jet-like siren is heard.

    One valve is in near the overlfow bottle, below and toward the center of engine compartment. Other one is towards the front on drivers side, near air cleaner. Isolate the sound to one or the other.
  • gpickgpick Posts: 1
    My 99 intrigue AC is not cooling. The compressor runs and when I check the low pressure side it is between 30 and 35 psi. From what I understand, that is OK. But, the high pressure side is reading about 1/2 of what it is suppose to be (125 vs 250?) My mechanic friend has told me that my compressor is bad but I'm hoping it is something cheaper.
    Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks a lot!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I'm dealing with a similar issue on my 2000 intrigue. I have the auto climate control and the driver side is blowing hot air and the passenger side is blowing cold air. The most likely cause is the system is low on freon caused by a leak in the compressor.

    I'm planning to replace my Intrigue this summer so I plan to have my mechanic re-charge the system with freon and add a dye to find the leak. Hopefully the charge will last until I can replace this car.
  • fasstlnfasstln Posts: 8
    That sounds right about the compressor being the problem given the low and high side pressures.
    If it makes you feel better, my AC quit blowing cold and I had very low freon (to the point that my compressor wouldn't even turn on). They charged the system and added dye to the refrigerant so they could later see where the leak was coming from.
    A month later and the air is not cold at all. Apparently I have a leak in my evaporator which is up under the dashboard and a real pain to access. They mentioned my compressor was making some groaning noises (I've heard it too) and that it would most likely need replacing soon too. The total cost was going to be over $1,600. That is about half the value of the car so I can't justify that expense.
    So relatively speaking, be glad it's just your compressor and not the evaporator.

    My solution is to pay a couple of hundred dollars and tint the windows. Then in a few years just buy another inexpensive car.
  • netman55netman55 Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Oldsmobile Intrique GLS, 3.5V6 for about 6 weeks now the charging system light has been coming on periodically. I do not have any power loss car runs great. I took it in to have the charging system checked the mechanic said that everything was fine but since the light comes on I should replace the alternator -just an $800. pinch- the output in amps was at 28.00/volts @11.80. The light comes on in city driving when turning ,hitting bumps... but will go out shortly after. On the highway the light does not come on . Is this just a pre warning of things to come ? or just a short in the wiring or fuses? Any suggestions would be appreciated
  • I've got a 99 Olds Intrigue with the 3.8 V6. The car has about 130k on it, but runs and drives well.

    I recently spent 6 hours replacing the AC compressor, and the car seemed to be smoother than ever. I drove home one afternoon and when i tried to turn on the accessories to roll up my windows before a storm, the key refused to turn at all. Now my fine machine is a paper weight.

    I've used graphite spray and have worked the lock and steering column and shifter. Doesn't seem to make any difference. The wheel has not locked and I can still turn it, but the shifter is in park and you cant push the car.

    Haynes doesn't make a manual for Intrigues, the closest you can get is a manual covering all buicks, pontiacs and olds's from '85-'05. Can anyone give me some advice or get me started on how to remove the ignition key cylinder so i can replace/repair it?
  • billcarsonbillcarson Posts: 23
    biglenny45 i just did this job a few weeks ago and used a post from dtownfb to guide me through it.it was the directions for cleaning the ignition switch which comes out with the cylinder so it was very useful.get to it fast by googleing (cleaning the ignition switch on a 2000 intrigue),and it will be the first listing.if you do it don't rush it and take your time removing the plastic dash assemblies carefully.they are flimsy and would be a hassle to replace.my car was in south florida for most of it's life and the pieces got stuck. the hardest part is removing the electrical connectors and the large black cable(shift lock cable),but with a little patience it will come out.also organize each removed assembly and keep it's related screws with it.(i used my picnic table).this will make reassembly easier.i had to perform the relearn procedure 3 times befofe the starter would turn over. good luck. bill
  • billcarsonbillcarson Posts: 23
    also very important to perform a relearn proceedure so you can start the car after the cylinder is replaced.you have a passlock system on your car and if you google (passlock relearn proceedure) you will see a pdf file (engine controls and fuel systems).read about how the system works and follow the relearn proceedure,starting on page 2 very carefully.i had to repeate the proceedure the full 3 times before it took.and by the way it disabled the starter on my car not the fuel injectors. go for it and good luck. bill
  • billcarsonbillcarson Posts: 23
    netman55 i've read of many problems on this site for alternator issues.if your mechanic was right about his readings they seem very low for a 125 amp alternator.why would he then say everything was allright?these cars have a tendency to corrode at the positive battery terminal.i've had my car for 3 months now and right off the bat i had noticed a weak battery condition.after cleaning the badly corroded terminal and recharging the battery i have no issues.i hope that that might have been checked on your car during all the testing. good luck and do the read on replacing the alternator.(you won't believe it) bill
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    billcarson has the right idea. Check all of your connections. Also check your ground wire connections as well.
  • I have been getting the following lights keep appearing when I am driving. Has anyone had this issue and if so how did you fix the problem? golfgirlmd
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Could be a bad ABS sensors which is on the wheel hubs.

    What is the model year and engine in your Intrigue?
  • I have a 2000 Intrigue. I have the ABS sensor switch replaced a year or so ago. The other odd thing happened a few weeks ago was when I started the car up the A/C did not work, Gas gauge said I had no fuel. So, I turned off the car and restarted with no problems.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    There are four ABS wheel sensors. It's possible another one could have been damaged.

    Now that you mention the funny things at start up, you could have the beginnings of a bad ignition switch. This can cause all kinds of weird behavior like you are describing. The problem is it is often sporadic in the early stages before elevating to numerous cranks to start and stalling.

    Keep monitoring the situation. BTW, have the "Security, Trac off and Service engine soon" lights gone off.
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