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Toyota Sequoia Rear Hatch Door Problems

135

Comments

  • JUANJOHNNY:
    I think that would be the mother of all PITAs. I feel for you.

    Here's my suggestion. I have used an aircraft grade penetrating oil made by KANOLABS (kanolabs.com) on really tough jobs such as OXYGEN SENSOR removal.
    It's called Kroil/AeroKroil. Way better than WD40.

    PENETRATING-LUBRICATING OILS
    Kroil/AeroKroil Loosens Frozen Metal Parts!

    My suggestion is to liberally soak the latch mechanism from inside the door in this KROIL a couple of times over a couple days. Then try exercising the latch mechanism with the cable pulls and solenoid unlocking/locking button pushes in the hope it frees enough to open the door. Then replace it when a new one (bolts right in).

    If that fails, you probably have the fun task described by peterson70 ahead of you some fine weekend, but quickly before Winter arrives.
  • If you want to SEE how to replace this handle go to u-tube - and then use the shortcut that he just posted as well - you don't have to tear apart your hand if you remove the two rubber gaskets on the inside of the door to remove the very hard to get screws.
    Ebay has a metal replacement handle that works great - also mentioned in the video. I have replaced this myself twice and this time I ordered the metal replacement piece from Ebay so we will see how this goes.
    I am a soccer mom and was tired of paying $700 - mine has broken 6 times on my 2002 sequoia.
  • Just before watching this video I happened to walk out to my car with a 7mm allen wrench and hooked it through the hole (with the short end). Reaching way up, I easily grabbed the latch and pulled it down. I think it works better than the bent nose pliers because it fits through the hole easier. Anyhow, great video. Now to get the part and watch the rest of the video....
  • Quick update....I installed one of the ones from Ebay. It didn't work. The travel was not long enough to pull the cable far enough. However, I disassembled the new one and took the metal handle from it and replaced the plastic handle on the original one. Now it is working great.
  • Thanks to all of you and luckily finding the latch part on amazon.com, I just repaired my 2007 Sequoia liftgate latch for $18 ($6 for the part + $12 for shipping). Hopefully it will last a while. Maybe I should purchased another part now to have on hand. Hmmmm.

    Thank you all for posting your experiences! It took me 3 hours but I figured it out.

    My local dealership quoted a price of $80 for the part and $150 to install it! One local salvage yard quoted a price of $50 for the part. All other salvage yards had none of the latch parts (they aren't going to take one off an undamaged tailgate). I refused to pay after reading many similar stories.

    As I said, I happened to find the part on amazon.com. The sender's business name is Best Price Mirror in Blue Jay, CA. I hope everyone else has the same success.

    Best wishes!
  • tfottfot Posts: 1
    Read the MANY other people that have had the same issue. Naturally, I have the back of the sequoia filled with stuff to donate, and cant get the door to unlock. Read the posts, and I have the added 'bonus' that my window will not go down (memory is the dealer wanted to charge me close to 1000 to fix that)
    Will be ordering a metal latch (my latch doesnt seem to be broken) but when I use the key fob, I hear the unlock, but cant get the door to lift? any suggestions. I can empty the back of the car thru the side doors, if there is any way to access the door from the inside. thanks
  • any luck?

    I have replaced the little piece a few years ago.

    My locked stop working...unable to lock.

    Now I cant get the door open.

    The handle is activating the cable.

    The cable does not seem "broke"

    But I cant get the door to budge.

    not sure if the lock is stuck . I hear it making noise but not sure if it is unlocking.

    Maybe it was stuck in un-lock position last time.

    this is the second time this has happened. Both times when wife got supplies from lowes and she had help loading.
  • TFOT and Melfinke:

    It sounds like you both have the mother of all PITA situations where the handling and cable assembly is working but the LATCH is not activating. I feel for you. This LATCH gets gummed up and rusted as has been described many times in this problem.

    In providing the following suggestion, I assume you've read this thread and others over at tundrasolutions.com that describe how to get the back of the door panel off from inside the car.

    Here's my suggestion. I have used an aircraft grade penetrating oil made by KANOLABS (kanolabs.com) on really tough jobs such as OXYGEN SENSOR removal.
    It's called Kroil/AeroKroil. Way better than WD40.

    PENETRATING-LUBRICATING OILS
    Kroil/AeroKroil Loosens Frozen Metal Parts!


    My suggestion is to liberally soak the latch mechanism from inside the door in this KROIL a couple of times over a couple days. Then try exercising the latch mechanism with the cable pulls and solenoid unlocking/locking button pushes in the hope it frees enough to open the door.

    Then really clean the LATCH mechanism with toothbrush of all accumulated CRUD and grease it OR , if actually rusted, replace it with a new one (bolts right in).

    If that fails, you probably have the fun task described by peterson70 (early in this thread) ahead of you some fine weekend, but quickly before Winter arrives.

    ---

    I had the added bonus of getting the WINDOW Motor to respond and start working during my repair by banging it -- as has also been described. I now have my wife roll the window down/up each time the GAS tank is filled to be the motor contacts from oxidizing or it sticking again.
  • Hi heytomsequoia,
    First off, I would like to thank you for your detailed repair information! I just bought a used 2006 Limited for our new family. It has 60k and I am experiencing similari issue with the rear door. I am not very mechanically inclined, but with our newborn twins, I need to save money, so I gave it a shot. I successfully removed the bottom latch, cleaned it up, went to re-install to discover the upper handle/latch to be shot. It is froze up. So I carefully followed all of your steps, made plenty of mistakes along the way and now I'm stuck.
    I removed those 2 - 10mm nuts inside the extremely hard to reach spots. I can barely type this after all the cuts on my wrists. I removed the plastic housing where the cable attaches to the cheap plastic handle as well as the cable itself. I cannot get the license plate cover off! Not sure if the 2006 design is different from yours, but, there seems to be something I missing for me to do. It is loose at the top, but the bottom middle is not giving on the outer license plate plastic cover. I read your instructions 100 times, but can't get this thing out. the 4 plastic trim plugs are crimped and out, the keylock is out, but as mentioned, something else is holding the plate on.
    Any ideas?
    thanks!
  • Have you removed the license plate itself, this must be done as the plate bolts double as ab way of holding the cover to the tail gate.......just a thought. The last time I had to repair my latch I actually had to grind the license plate bolts off as they rusted over time.
  • I'm having the same issue with the rear hatch handle not engaging the lock/unlock mechanism; the door is closed which is a bummer. I've read thru the postings and would like to know what the part number or name is for the cable assembly that would be on the inside?
  • ryno27ryno27 Posts: 5
    There were two nylon plugs below that I didn't see, so I crimped them and pushed the cover out. It came right off. The nylon plugs were actually the 2 lower bottom bolts for the license plate. Mission accomplished! Thanks
  • ryno27ryno27 Posts: 5
    You can order one on Ebay like I did: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110605968313
    It costs $39.95 with free shipping. I just put in a new latch myself. Also, watch some of these videos on you tube: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=toyota+sequoia+rear+door+latch&aq=0
    It will show you how to open your door using 90 degree needle nose pliers. As of the cable assembly, I am not sure what part #, but you can find it easily online. Let me know if you need more help. I just did this job for the first time.
  • tkoritkori Posts: 2
    Sequoia rear lock problems (but not broken latch) -
    I hear the lock and unlocking of the mechanism in the read door latch with the key fob and the electric button on the side doors, but the outside handle will not open the rear door. I've seen the repair videos and the handle itself is not broken as I feel tension on the latch as if the door is still locked. The handle is not free floating as if broken. Using the manual key in the rear door sounds the same but will not release the lock, but the key will open the rear window.

    I've been having unlocking problems for off and on with the front passenger door too, having the hit the button several times (3 to 4 times) to get ALL the doors to lock or unlock. Is the key only an electric switch actuating the solenoid and not direct manual linkage to the lock?

    What do you think? Corrosion on the wire connectors? Therefore causing low voltage to the solenoids??? Something else? Where do I start?
  • ryno27ryno27 Posts: 5
    It sounds like your handle is frozen up. If you can manually move it with your fingers and it still sticks, then the handle is shot and your fob will do nothing. If your rear door is locked, then you need to use 90 degree pliers (or a tool to get in under the handle to pull that cable) to grab the cable and unlock the door. There is a youtube video that illustrates this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRuOxDnP5gE
    It still could be the cable or electric issue. I did not have an electric or cable problem, so I can't comment on that. Watch through the video and take it from there. You may have some corrosion and your latches/handles may be sticking. One way or another, you should take everything apart, clean and lubricate the handles and latches.
  • pfessorpfessor Posts: 7
    I had a similar problem with my 2001 Sequoia lift gate. I could pull the handle and it seemed like it unlocked but the door (liftgate) wouldn't come open. I knew the latch wasn't broken because I had experienced that before. Yeah, $300 worth.
    I determined that it might simply be stuck (like a bathroom door that has swelled and rubs the door jamb). It needed a good strong jerk, but I didn't want to break the latch. I fashioned a handle from a metal rod that would hook up under the very bottom of the lift gate. This gave me strong leverage when pulling.
    While pulling on the regular latch handle with one hand (not hard enough to break it) and putting some muscle into pulling on the bottom of the door, Hooray, it came open.
    I found that the locking mechanism was pretty well gummed up, dirty and a little rusty. After a thorough cleaning with W-D 40 and giving it a good coating with silicone lubricant, it now works fine. However, I still carry the home made pulling handle in my tool box and lubricate it regularly.
    Hope this helps.
  • cbrook4cbrook4 Posts: 2
    I am having the same issue with my 2002 Limited. I am quit experianced with electric circuits and have found that on mine both the key and the keyless entry are causing the MPX module mounted on the rear hatch to energize the relay in this board. Power 12 volts is then supplied to the solenoid at the actual latch assembly to energize and pull in causing the door to lock and unlock. should get 12 volts to the solenoid when you press the unlock button on the fab or the doors itself. The board on the MPX module the relay clicks and sends power out (suppossedly) you can take the board out of the black enclosure and feel the relay clicking. Mine needs the MPX module. 300 from dealer, trying to source a used one. hope this helps
  • sitzsitz Posts: 1
    I had a broken handle and was successful in removing the old and replacing with new metal one thanks to the information provided previously. Befor putting everything back together I checked the mechanism to make sure it worked. When using the handle it did not work even though everything was connected correctly. It was as if there was not enough travel in the cable to engage the actual latch. I unhooked the cable from the handle and pulled on it which allowed for the door to unlatch. While I had the door open I manually closed the actual latch mechanism so I could repeat pulling the cable to make sure it would open again if I were to close it. This time the latch did not disengage. I now have an open tailgate with a stuck latch and so am unable to close it. I have sprayed WD40 on the mechanism but does not seem to help. I cannot see how the latch mechanism is attached inside the door panel. It is covered by a black plastic housing but no sigh of how it is attached. Any ideas as to how to go about addressing this?
  • cbrook4cbrook4 Posts: 2
    Sorry for the delay the black plastic cover just pulls off and there is three 10 or 12 mil bolts holding the latch mech into the rear gate. I have had to put a spacer on the cable since it was as if it was a little long. i used a lead fishing sinker on the end of the cable . once you have out you will be able to see where. the end of the cable has a lead ball on the end i put the sinkers there to kind of shorten the cable. hope helps
  • surfergirl2surfergirl2 Posts: 2
    edited June 2011
    I replaced the rear door latch on the '02 sequoia and it worked when I tested it but after I locked the car and came back later it wouldn't work. it sounds like it is unlocking but when I go to pull handle it moves like it's going to open but after pulling on it for an inch I feel tension on it but it won't open. I had trouble putting the plastic cover over the wire that connect to the lock but think it's holding (hasn't fallen down). Also, when it's locked, I can still pull the handle an inch or so before I feel the tension.
    Any help is appreciated, I am so frustrated I don't know what to do. I watched all the videos, it seemed easy too.
    thanks.
  • I just changed the latch on my 04. 2nd time it breaks, firt time i fix my self. The first 1 was covered under warranty 3 years ago but now my warranty expired 2 weeks ago and the latch broke last week. The dealer wanted $400 to fix. Including the $80 latch. I ordered the part thursday night and received it on monday. Took me about 3 hourst to change but now could probably fix in 1 hour. The challenge was getting to the nuts which attach the hatch to the door. There was no room to get to it until i detached the power window mechanism. Glad i did itnat night as south florida heat can be challenging. Any help needed, let me know.
  • I just changed the latch on my 04. 2nd time it breaks, firt time i fix my self. The first 1 was covered under warranty 3 years ago but now my warranty expired 2 weeks ago and the latch broke last week. The dealer wanted $400 to fix. Including the $80 latch. I ordered the part thursday night and received it on monday. Took me about 3 hourst to change but now could probably fix in under an hour. The challenge was getting to the nuts which attach the hatch to the door. There was no room to get to it until i detached the power window mechanism. Glad i did it at night as south florida heat can be challenging. Any help needed, let me know.
  • momomanmomoman Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    I just wanted to thank everyone, especially heytomsequoia for all the information posted. I have a 2001 Seq. and the plastic handle broke after 11 years so I guess I was lucky it lasted that long!

    A few things:
    1) Be patient. I broke 1 of the plastic trim clips on the license plate trim cover that holds the latch handle. The clips cost $2.50 to $7.50 EACH at the dealer and mine had to be special ordered with a 2-day delay. I broke one of the dark gray $2.50 clips that had to be ordered in a set of 3. The white clips are $7.50 EACH!
    2) I also broke the plastic that housed the trim clip because I yanked on the license trim cover from the outside instead of pushing the end of the trim clip from the inside of the hatch door. I used a hot glue gun to glue the new trim clip to the trim cover.
    3) Be sure to reinstall the rear hatch key lock's mounting plate between the license trim cover and the rear hatch door. I put the trim plate in first, then realized when I tried to bolt in the lock that I had to remove the trim plate again and sandwich the lock's mounting plate between the trim plate and the rear hatch.
    4) Other people have mentioned that to remove the 2 10mm nuts holding the hatch handle there are 2 rubber plugs on the inside of the rear hatch that you need to remove. You can use a 6" long socket wrench extension with a 10mm socket to easily loosen/tighten the 2 nuts for the hatch handle.

    I also "whacked" the rear window motor about 20 times and was surprisd that my rear window is now working again after being stuck for about the past 8 years!

    Be patient. The hardest part of the job for me was to remove the license trim plate. Crimp the trim clips from the inside and push out. Don't yank on the trim plate or you may break the trim clips or the trim plate itself.

    I've been very fortunate that the rear hatch and window motor were the only mechanical problems I've ever had in 11 years of ownership. My "D" drive light is out in my dash but I can live with that.
  • I fixed my rear door hatch and now am not sure if I did not put something back together right. When my rear window is partially down, it has some play in it. It can be moved back and forth an inch or so. I don't remember if it did this before. Any feedback is appreciated!
  • I watched all the videos too, but I think I'm missing something to get at the latching mechanism at the bottom inside of the hatch door. [Unfortunately, my stuck shut hatch door is more than just the latch handle]. Took a while to get the 2 electrical connectors off, then hoped that black plastic cover would basically lift off. I've spent a while now trying to pull, twist, pry, etc. and can't get it to lift off. No screws, no bolts, can't see anything holding it on. Anyone with any advice? I need to get at the workings and start them soaking as the cable being pulled has no effect.

    Also, was horrified at some of the metal pieces inside the hatch when I took off the trim and coverings. Window had only been going down a foot or so, and discovered that the guides rusted so bad they flaked and were almost disintegrated.
  • raemacraemac Posts: 1
    my 2005 sequoia handle just broke. the dealer wants $85 for the handle, $117 for the latch and 2.5 hours to fix at $95/hr. Total $439.50. I am too busy at work to try to fix it but what a surprise. This should have been recalled. I am glad others can fix it themselves. My rear window does not work so I will try to fix that from the advice from the other blog. Othwerwise a great car.
  • If you have not already given the dealer the go-ahead, you may want to consider buying the replacement handle yourself on eBay where you get METAL handles for about $33 instead of the PLASTIC that the dealer sells that will just break again in a few years for $89. By the way, the handle and the latch don't usually fail at the same time. I think you're being ripped off.
  • edoc2000 have you been able to resolve your issue with the back door as we are having the same problem and like you it came out of nowhere. We also have a 2010 Limited.
  • I finally bought the part on ebay and had my local mechanic install the part-total cost $125-------Toyota wanted about$450 ---s/b warranted by isn't-too bad as this is not what Toyota needs in this market
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