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2008 and Later Ford Taurus / Mercury Sable Maintenance and Repair Forum

thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
This is where owners of the current model of Taurus or Sable can discuss maintenance and repair experiences with their vehicles, from 2008 and later.
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Comments

  • jontyreesjontyrees Posts: 159
    I have a 2008 Taurus with only 3k miles on it, and the only thing that remotely bothers me about the car is that it is a little reluctant to kick down into a lower gear. My question is this - since this engine/transmission combo is shared across several vehicles, (Taurus, Taurus X, Edge, Flex, CX9?), is it possible to have the shift program from a different vehicle flashed into this one? I have no idea if the Edge or other vehicle has a more responsive shift pattern, but I'd be interested in finding out. The likelyhood of me actually doing this is remote, but I thought I'd ask.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    You can report the shifting hesitation to your dealer, there may be a software update for the trans. I just had the software in my Fusion updated and it shifts much better now.
  • keithm1keithm1 Posts: 22
    Just picked up a new Sable Premier AWD a few weeks back. Has all the options, except rear seat entertainment option. Car runs great. Definately love the new 3.5V6. Traded a loaded Milan in for the Sable. Milan handles somewhat "Crisper". Size does make a difference here. Only issue I have... At bottom of trunk lid is a "satin" chrome strip. Milan has this as well. On the Sable water gets under it & when you open the trunk, it leaks into the trunk. A friend suggested putting a thin "beading" of clear silicone chalking at the top of the strip to keep water from getting in. I think it sounds like a good idea. Just have to make the "beading" very thin so as not to appear obvious. Any thoughts here? :)
  • keithm1keithm1 Posts: 22
    Actually replying to my prev. message.Went to the dealer to pick up touch up paint I ordered. Showed them the trunk molding that was an issue. They will remove it & either put a new adhesive strip or replace the part. It's adhered by a "sticky" strip similer to side molding, except the strip is somewhat wider. :) Not a major issue by any means, just don't like the trapped water going into trunk when it's opened.Also feel that water "trapped" that way could allow rust to form over a period of time.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Is there an oil life monitor in the new Taurus? My folks just bought their car, but won't pick it up until Monday, and are curious about the oil change intervals. Our Hondas have a monitor that counts engine RPM and monitors engine conditions to determine when oil changes should be done. Does the Taurus have anything like this? If not, what are the recommended intervals?

    Also, is there a timing belt, or timing chain?

    Thanks!
  • keithm1keithm1 Posts: 22
    Oil replacement should be every 7500K. Less if you do mostly innercity(4000 or so)
    The 3000K change recommended by Jiffy Lube etc. only enriches their registers.When I get a new car...within a week I get the oil changed to Mobile One(or other great synthetic)As to the timing belt/chain...Honda(most foreign)makes use a belt. It may be quieter, but never lasts as long as a chain. Just another reason I always buy US. Had a friend with an Accura at 65K, his timing belt broke at 70mph. Needless to say he spent over $1500 fixing the car. When was the last time you heard of a timing chain breaking? ;)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The timing belt broke at 65k? I have never ever heard of a timing belt breaking. Change intervals are usually 90k or later these days anyway. As for my '06 Honda and my folks' 2007 Honda, they're both chains. Only Honda V6 engines have belts, not the I4 engines (the biggest sellers). Anyway, thanks for the chain info for the Taurus.

    My Honda has special engine-oil additives from the factory that need to stay in the engine for the full duration of a typical oil change; they help collect the tiny shavings from the engine breaking in. Can someone tell me if this is the case for the Taurus also?
  • keithm1keithm1 Posts: 22
    Yeah, we're going back to 1993. I think it was the Integra. That was really just a gussied up Accord. Much smaller than the Accords of today. Belts on the Hondas are good for 105K. So they say.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Ford does not have a break in period. However it is recommended that you do not drive at a constant speed for long periods of time during the first 1,000 miles.

    Mark
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Really? That's pretty surprising to me, actually. I did know enough to tell my mom, who drove the car from Birmingham to Gulf Shores, AL the day after purchase to keep the speeds varied. She said she went from 66 to 78 to 74 to 66, changing every half hour.
  • keithm1keithm1 Posts: 22
    Definately didn't like the new lights on the Sable. Test drove the '05 Montego with HID. They make a difference. Have had new Sable for just over a month. Actually went online & bought HID conversion set. Had our mechanic install them. A few minor issues(so far). Lights would stay on until you turned on engine. Then they'd shut off. I think it was because mechanic didn't properly "seat" left light. Also light was "aiming" to the left. Did a little turning in the socket. seems to be "seated" properly now. Light pattern spread is same now as before lights were changed..just brighter now. :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    When driving over a speed-bump in my mother's '08 Taurus SEL this weekend, I hear a creaking noise from the front of the car (I think front driver's side, but who knows). I know I've read about it here before, but can't find it.

    If you've had this problem (or read about it) would you mind sharing what the issue was, and how it was fixed? There are 4,900 miles on the car. It drives beautifully, and only makes the noise over BIG bumps like the speed bumps. And no, I wasn't going over them at 30 MPH either! :shades:

    Any info is much appreciated.

    Thanks!

    TheGrad
  • My '08 Sable does the same thing. I mentioned it to the dealer when I took it in for service. They "could not duplicate the problem". It seems worse if multiple passengers are aboard. Someone else mentioned it in this or another Taurus/Sable forum, and indicated it was the CV boot on the drivers side. He said he lubricated it and the problem went away. I asked for details, but got no answer. Maybe you will have better luck if you can find the post and ask for details.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Thanks Ron,

    That sounds familiar. Maybe if their dealer can't duplicate the problem, they can at least suggest lubricating the CV boot and see if that fixes it.

    Thanks for responding on this ghost-town of a board! ;)

    TheGrad
  • keithm1keithm1 Posts: 22
    I've got an '08 sable. We have speed bumps all down the hill from where I live. I haven't had any noise as you've discribed. Some of the others have said the CVboot needs lubing. I thought that was done at the factory. Sometimes the dealers are clueless about their own cars. If you know a good mechanic, have him test drive it over a bump & see if he can duplicate the sound. If he does, bet he'll know how to fix it.
  • I have a 99 Sable LS which started making an awful noise when I turned into work today. I want to stop before I go home and add some power steering fluid but I'm not sure what kind is best. My manal is at home. Does anyone know which kind I should buy? Thanks.
  • When it's cold outside, and I want to warm the car up quickly, the "auto" setting does not cause the fans to blow hard - barely at all in fact. I can't find a manual setting that makes air blow rapidly into the interior of the car either, just on defrost. The fans will blow hard when cooling on a/c - just not on heat. Anyone know whether this is intended, or if I have a problem?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Our Honda with Auto Climate Control wouldn't blow heat hard until the car was warmed up (meaning the temp coming from the heater wouldn't be warm enough to actually heat the interior).

    Is this it?
  • bobber1bobber1 Posts: 217
    Pretty sure the Auto feature doesn't run the fan faster because it's not going to warm the car up any faster until the engine has properly warmed up. Once the engine temp is high enough to do some good, wa la the fan speeds up.

    Mine does the same thing so pretty sure it's doing it as intended and you don't have a problem. I like the Auto temp feature a lot. You set it to a temperature you like and rarely have to mess with it after that.
  • I think the fan speed is dependent on the temperature differential - the difference between the existing car temperature and the setting. So, you could increase the fan speed by turning up the setting (or lowering it for cooling) if this difference is small. As the temperature approaches the desired setting, the fan will slow down.
  • Thanks all - I figured it might be intended to stop me from just blowing a ton of cold air into the cabin. BTW, almost 10k miles in and I really like this car. Wish I had a later production run, as I don't have the Synch, but it's not that big a deal.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Glad we could help!

    My folks are loving their new Taurus (6,000 miles, bought in June). And yes, they have Sync and LOVE it. :)
  • There is a TSB (technical service bulletin) out for this problem. It requires lubing the strut bushing, its a quick fix.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Thanks for taking the time to reply!
  • My dealer is proposing the same repair on my '08 Sable Premier. How did yours work out? I was told there was no service bulletin for this problem. Thanks for posting this problem... My concerns were the same as yours...
  • I have a 1999 Ford Taurus Wagon. To avoid a wreck I put the car into reverse from drive and accelerated hard. The tires squeaked and all of the sudden the car made a grinding noise. When I put it up it into any other gear it made the same noise. I can only put it in park or neutral. When I jacked it up onto stands and put it in drive it makes the grinding noise only when my foot is on the brake. When I release the brake the wheels spin. I was thinking the problem could be a broken halfshaft either on the left or right side, but I am not sure. If you are experienced and have any knowledge on this please post back.
  • keithm1keithm1 Posts: 22
    Hate to say it, but sounds like you definately did transmissin damage. You never shift from drive to reverse when moving. How fast were you going when you shifted into reverse? If less than 10mph, the damage is probably minor. if, however, you were going full speed, then I'd say you're probably looking at a major repair(maybe complete overhall)Don't necessarily take the car to your dealer. Find someone local who specializes in transmission repair, such as "AMMCO" :sick:
  • I am pretty sure I was fully stopped when I put it into reverse, but then I accelerated hard when I was in reverse, but yeah I'm almost positive its transmission problems after looking at it more closely and I might just buy another car.
  • keithm1keithm1 Posts: 22
    I'd get a good estimate before shelling out for a new car! ;)
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