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Chevrolet Prizm Maintenance and Repair



  • epoch8519epoch8519 Posts: 2
    Ok... heres the deal. I have 95' Geo Prism 1.6L 5 speed manual 249k. Recently, a couple months ago i noticed a knocking noise coming from the front right of my car. Incidently I replaced my front right CV joint and the noise is still there. Its not a shake that is associated with the brakes from what I can tell. The noise is associated with speed.... faster i got the more noise.... brakes applied noise stops.... it doesnt shake the steering rack. It seems to be happening at a pretty specific angle too.... about 5 to 10 degrees steering left from straight. ITS THE ONLY TIME IT HAPPENS... brake pads are a little uneven. does anyone have any ideas Is my steering rack going? Suggestions... similar problems?
  • crebelocrebelo Posts: 3
    Had this problem for 2 years now
    on the freeway when doing a sharp turn (45 mph sign ) the car will shudder or pulsate forward as soon as i straighten out its fine.
    this only happens when im accelerating i can coast these corners just fine no shudder but put gas and i feel like im on the log ride going up just faster.
  • crebelocrebelo Posts: 3
    Turned out it was a badly torn control arm bushing (horizontal one towards the back)
    I couldnt see this when jacking up from the regular spot was actually checking the ball joint and jacked it up from the control arm (my service manual says not to do but i was desperate) didnt see anything so i climbed under to look at steering components and saw it was torn. felt it and i could almolst stick my index finger inside.
    Ordered the replacement and will be seeing after thats in if im going to have to replace the cv halfshaft on that side.
    who knows maybe this will help someone else.
    i have been checking this for over a year and could never see into the top of this bushing but it seemed fine the rest of the way around.
    and to think i replaced the opposite side for cracking all the while ive got a complete tear on this side. :)
  • Could be a wheel bearing, I've had that happen before. Also check all the ball joints for excess play.
  • I'm not sure what you mean by "Stop Light Sensor" but, if you're referring to the "Brake Light Switch" on the brake pedal arm and you've already replaced that, check your fuses. I believe the brake light fuse is in the under dash fuse block. If that's good then it's time to start checking the wires going to the brake light switch and make sure the connector is seated properly.
  • I can't say for sure about the "chevy" models because I have no experience with them. With the older "geo" models though, it's basically a Toyota Corolla with a Toyota ignition system. One main flaw the ignition system suffers from is that age will cause the electrical contacts to weaken. One way you can isolate this as the cause is to bypass the ignition switch using the starter relay under the hood. Unless you have good mechanical experience, I suggest getting a mechanic to do this because doing it wrong can not only zap you pretty hard, it can also short out the system.
  • hi, i have a 95 geo prizm lsi, 5 speed. and i failed the smog?

    idk why, but my car burns engine oil too. and alittle bit of blue smoke comes out. please help. much appreciated.
    oh and if this helps here u go
    Smog Check Results:
    RPM = 0
    HC = 385 PPM
    NO = 222PPM
    CO = 0.20%
    CO2 = 5.3%
    O2 = 10.65
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,930
    This question might be more suitable for our answers section:

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  • what is considered normal parasitic drain 2005 park ave
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,930
    This discussion is specific to the Prizm. You might have better luck in our Buick Park Avenue discussions.

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  • I have a 1995 Geo Prizm. It has run 99K miles. The car is vibrating now and different mechanics suspect different problems about the car. I got one mechanic who asked me to replace the following parts

    1. Rack and pinion.
    2. Struts.
    3. Lower Control Arms.

    The estimated cost was around 1000 bucks. is it worth getting it fixed with a uncertified mechanic for 1000 bucks, from a dealer for 2300 bucks or is it worth selling it off and buying a new one?
  • Can anyone post some suggestions please? I am looking forward to here from some of the experts out there.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,930
    You're almost always better off posting in an existing discussion. Single-question discussions often get overlooked.

    The regular Geo Prizm discussion is a good place to start. You might drop by the answers section too -

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  • krogers4krogers4 Posts: 2
    I just bought a '95 Geo Prizm, manual transmission. I had the transmission replaced and something else replaced closely related to the transmission, like a fan, cylinder, spindle, something along the lines of that. (I obviously don't know anything about cars) I went to pick it up and on the drive back it was doing this terrible bucking so I turned it around and brought it back. They replaced the fuel injector pump and an air filter. It's significantly better than it was the first time, but it is still bucking. The mechanic can't find anything wrong with it. It bucks right around when it needs to be shifted, like 2000 rpm and up. It also does it all the time in 4th and 5th even though it doesn't need to be shifted. The bucking almost feels like it's going to stall like when you take the clutch out too fast. It also has a fairly new clutch in it, if that makes any difference. My dad knows a bit about cars and he can't see anything wrong and said the engine sounds good and it runs great beside the bucking. It had been sitting in the parking lot where I had bought it for awhile so the mechanic said it could have something to do with the gas, I filled the tank with premium and put a gas additive in it to help clean it. Not sure if this has anything to do with the problem but it also has a pretty steady power steering fluid leak, I have to fill it up once a week. If anyone can help that would be great, just remember I don't know anything about cars.
  • method1method1 Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem with my 94 Prizm - it idled great but started bucking and hesitating when I started driving down the street.

    Now here's the odd thing - it stopped after replacing the thermostat.

    After reading up on this problem, the coil in the distributor tends to fail with heat build-up (if the plastic fill is cracked on the coil - the coil should be replaced).

    Even though the car never showed that it was overheating, it was still causing these problems.

    I would also suggest cleaning the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. Don't mess with the TPS if it's running good at idle, I had a hell of a time trying to get that adjusted properly after removing it.
  • i need to find the ecu pinout for my 1994 geo prizm and cant find one anywhere i would greatly appreciate some help.
  • Hi Scott, we also have a 94 Prizm with the acceleration problems described. Did you ever find a solution?
  • Hi, we also have a 94 Prizm with the acceleration problems described. Did you ever find a solution?
  • I have a 94 geo prizm lsi and this past november 2010 I ruptured the gas tank and it was a steady stream of leakage so i got it replaced for $600 at a mechanic. My car has smelt strongly of gas for a while but no gas leakage on the floor. today as i pulled into a store the car shut off. when i tried to start it, it wouldnt start and the oil lamp was on in the car. when i checked the gas tank, its now leaking but not severely only in drops. my question: is it the tank again and is it possible to have another gas tank replacement in less than a year?

    When it ruptured last time it would still run even though it was leaking. not this time though. any help?
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