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Chrysler Pacifica Engine Questions and Problems

Have a question about engine issues, post them here!
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Comments

  • jimmyslyjimmysly Posts: 1
    Holy Cow! You would not believe the difficulty involved in replacing the air filter on a 2006 Pacifica (I assume it is the same for 2004-2006 models).

    The air filter plenum box is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment, towards the front. It is marked "Air Filter" in big letters, so finding it is not an issue. Getting it open is another matter altogether.

    From this point on, all directions will be referenced from the point of view of standing in front of the car (directly in front of the passenger side headlight), looking at the air filter plenum box.

    The first step is to remove the two retaining screws on the front and back of the right side of the plenum box. If you have an OEM air filter, you can depress the top of the plenum box enough to release the three retaining tabs on the left side of the box and allow the top to slide to right. Slide the top far enough to the right to let the three retaining tabs clear their individual holding slots. Now you can partially lift the top to remove the old filter and install the new one.

    The OEM air filter is made of a soft spongy material for its frame and seal. The outer edge can be compressed fairly flat allowing you to depress the plenum box top enough to get the three retaining tabs back in their slots and slid the top completely back to the left in its original position. Tighten the two retaining screws and you are done.

    Here is where it gets tough if you do not have an OEM air filter. The replacement Fram air filter I purchased has a rigid rubber/plastic frame with a softer rubber seal on the top and bottom edge of the filter frame. This is pretty much the standard setup I have seen on all air filters other than the Pacifica OEM type. Anyway, the stiff frame will not allow you to compress the plenum box top enough to reengage the three retaining tabs. The only way to install this type of replacement filter is as follows:

    1. Remove the plastic engine cover. It is attached to the top of the engine by four pressure tabs, so it is easy to just pop it off.

    2. Loosen the hose bracket holding the plenum box accordion hose to the engine air intake. Remove the hose from the engine air intake. There is a sensor attached to the hose, so be careful not to put too much stress on the sensor wire.

    3. Remove the small hose attached to the front right of the plenum box top. It is just pressed on, so it can be easily pulled off and pushed back on.

    4. Now remove the top completely from the plenum box. Again, be careful to not put too much stress on the sensor wire on the accordion hose. Tilt the left side of the top down and reengage the top's three retaining tabs back into the slots on the left side of the plenum box. Press the accordion hose as tight as possible against the top and push the right side of the top back down on top of the air filter plenum box.

    5. Reattach the accordion hose to the engine air intake. Tighten the hose retaining clip.

    6. Reattach the small hose to the receptacle on the front right of the top.

    7. Tighten the two retaining screws on the air filter plenum box top. Ensure that the top fits properly back onto the plenum box as you tighten the retaining screws.

    7. Reattach the plastic engine cover by aligning the four press tabs to their receptacles and pressing down firmly.

    Fire up your engine and enjoy your new air filter.

    That is the most complicated air filter change I have ever done. :)
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Posts: 402
    Great post, can you share that here http://www.carspace.com/guides too?? Thanks! :)
  • elizolivoelizolivo Posts: 1
    Is there any advice on how to change the water pump on chysler pacifica with a 3.5 engine and aprox how long should the job take?
  • PiebuPiebu Posts: 2
    Have a 2005 Chrysler. Shops says engine mounts need to be replaced. How many are there? I know by reading the forum that a lot of people are having problem with this. Shop also say engine mounts are in national back order. I have been trying to replace them for 6 months. Any other brands I can use? Can i have ooriginal part(s) number(s)?

    Thanks
  • PiebuPiebu Posts: 2
    It is a Chrysler Pacifica. Forgot to mention
  • is a 3.8 v6 or a 3.5, the have 2 main mounts (front an back lower ) and other in the top passenger side under the air cleaner box...
  • many other problems with this year ,4.0 six speed automatic, 28000 miles my transmission broke today, before shift hard from park to drive, drive from reverse real bad,down shift on the route jump so bad, feel like the car broke in pieces, but the dealer say that was normal or maybe a problem with the cpm (need flash), after check all the problems still the same, today the transmission give up..I buy many pacifica's before (love) but the new model is real bad, never buy other again,I'm selling my now or burn this suv........
  • These instructions for replacing the AIR FILTER were right on the money!
  • nafganafga Posts: 1
    During an oil change I put in 4 quarts,start engine to fill oil filter,and after a few seconds I will rev the engine a few times to warm the oil.I then shut off car and finish filling crankcase.I have used this procedure for years.This time the engine seemed to clip the rpm's at 3000.The air conditioner was on during this,and it didn't dawn on me at the time to shut it off.When oil change was finished the car went up and down the road with no rpm clipping,and I even forced the engine at or near 4000 rpm's.Was the clipping of the rpm's in park some sort of electronic safety to protect the air conditioner compressor?
  • texan9texan9 Posts: 4
    How much should it cost to replace the engine harness? I was quoted 2700. Is it necessary to replace the entire engine harness? I am leery when driving for it has stopped on me six times since Dec.08. PCM changed in April. Now engine harness. Help. Thank you.
  • sbphosbpho Posts: 2
    05 Limited, 99k miles. Check engine light says failing egr valve. Of course light comes on Friday, Saturday the state sends me the notice that it's time for emissions testing. Is it a pain to replace this thing that's best left to professionals, or is this a simple job for an amateur?
  • kwtvkwtv Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    I have a 2004 Pacifica 3.5 with 122k miles on it. Last night on my way to work under power @ approx 70mpg with air conditioning running suddenly heard a POP saw sparks fly from under hood. Lost most power eng lite came on. I was able to turn around and limp it home. RPMs were very erratic made me think tranny, then battery lite came on. shifted back and forth up and down and at times shifted hard. I checked belt when home and it was intact. Any ideas????
  • My engine has no power. I have three codes showing, P1080, P0080, and P0038. The 0080 is the exhaust valve control ( solenoid circuit High). The P0038 is Heated oxygen sensor ( bank 1 sensor 2 ). The last one is a mystery. P1080. can any of this cause no power at all? can't get above 20 mph.
  • strick213strick213 Posts: 1
    My wife recently took her car in for a 32,000 mile oil change and service and they tried to upsell her "Throttle body service" for 139.95 and "fuel injector service" for 149.95. Are these legimate services? What would they actually do?
  • charger3charger3 Posts: 209
    edited June 2011
    Look at your service manual look under 32000 of what should be done if it is not listed don't pay for it. Dispute it with your credit card company. Call an attorney and have him write a letter that further action will be taken if they don't return money
  • drf49drf49 Posts: 1
    After having our 2005 Pacifica serviced for general maintenance two weeks ago and then having the EGR valve replaced last Friday we picked the car up at 4PM and at 7:30PM it threw a rod through the oil pan. I have a 100K Chrysler Maxicare warranty that hasn't expired time wise but is 1,500 miles over the milage . I think Chrysler may honor the warranty but I am wondering if anyone else has experienced this. We have regularly maintained the car and in 40+ years of car ownership this is the first time I have had a rod go through the oil pan. The dealer advised that a short block is not available for this car and a new engine with oil pan is over $8,800. Has anyone else experienced this.
  • We have an 2005 Pacifica had it since 2006 it has been in the shop every year for some type of repair. We have had an on going missing oil issue. Anytime the car made a tapping noise we check the oil and sure enough its low and never seen any oil leaks nor oil light indicator. Car was towed into the dealer after we had it for 3 months because it was almost out of oil then they replaced some defective oil rings and pistons. About 2 months ago the car started a knocking noise took it in for an oil change and found out we need a new engine. I was told by a friend that owns a car lot tell us the engines in the 2005 pacificas were no good and they stopped making them. Chrysler Corp. has done nothing but put the blame on us talking about normal wear and tear but bad rods is not normal wear and tear we keep up on maintenace and we do not drive our car hard. So now we are looking into some legal action.If anyone has any advice please let me know. I have read several post on bad gas pumps where the gas hand goes up and down a car stalls that has happened to us last year and there is a recall for that issue. I am so sick of Chrysler not standing behind these lemons thet are putting out there I will never but another Chrysler and have advised all my family friends not to. But anyone with some information please feel free to respond! We can get a class action law suit against these crooks!
  • I have a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica with the 4.0L V-6 and 43,000 miles. About two months ago, I had the battery replaced. Since then, I went for a state emissions test. The vehicle didn’t fail, but I received a “reject” notice meaning the test could not be completed. The car has passed the emissions test previously. I was told that replacing the battery meant loss of power to the emissions sensors and I needed to drive the car more to reset them. Specifically, the O2 and catalytic convertor sensors were reporting “Not Ready.” I have been back to the testing station twice since then and received the same indication and suggestion. I have been to a dealer and to an independent service facility three times. Both report that there is nothing wrong with the car. One suggested that I drive the car with the gas tank over half full. I have driven a few hundred miles under city and highway conditions with tank over half full since the battery replacement, but to no avail. There are no codes and the “Check Engine” light is not on. I have been told that this vehicle model is known to have this issue, but no-one can provide a more definitive resolution. Any thoughts?
  • jtg61jtg61 Posts: 43
    We have emissions testing in Illinois. I took my 2008 Pacifica to get tested the day after I received the notice in the mail last November. It wasn't due until the end of March 2012. It passed with flying colors. My advice is to not dilly dally around when you receive the notice and get it done right away. Then you don't have to deal with these issues. You never know what kind of glitch will turn up like this. I feel for this person and hope it never happens to me the next time my emissions is due to be tested in 2014. Good luck!
  • cporcpor Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 PAC that now needs engine work. In November the transmission that was replaced in 2010 ($2000) needed to be rebuilt again. I've repaired motor mounts twice ($400). When I purchased the car in 2007 I had the stall problem that was fixed with the software upgrade. I'm a single middle class
    Person and I can't afford the cost to repair/replace an engine. My AC is not working, they told me the radiator has problems, snd i have the radio static issue. All mechanics have told me to get rid of it and quick. I've been told dealers are not too willing to take them in for trade in. Prior to this I owned a 2000 Durango. At this point I have lost all faith in Chrysler product.
  • jtg61jtg61 Posts: 43
    Where is your Lifetime Powertrain Warranty?
  • I feel your pain...those cars are a piece of crap....we needed a new engine really when we first got the car they went in and replaced some parts and should have replaced the engine. the engine threw a rod 4 months ago sat at the dealer with us going back and forth with corp.....all in short we are having to replace the engine with a rebuilt engine at our expense. corp wasn't willing to help out at all unless we could prove there was a defect in the engine which we would have to pay for costing $1000. The car is nice and has the space for our family but i won't be driving it too much I am looking to get back into a bmw I will never by another chrysler again they don't stand behind thier cars and not willing to help. and anyone that has had a problem with fuel pumps there is an recall and they have to replace them at thier cost. the car will actually go from full tank to half to empty and car will stall.
  • Bought a used pacifica 2 years ago with 67000 miles on it, have not had any issues with it until now with 123000 miles. Lost the AC this past summer, then 2 weeks ago started having issues with the heat and gas gauge. Lost heat but temp gauge never moved, no overheating. Hubby said low on antifreeze, so we replaced it. Yesterday he had an overflow of fluid, overheated several times, with temp gauge going to the red. Today he replaces the thermostat (mechanic friend recommends) let it run for 30+ minutes with no issues. My daughters took it to gas up, stated the temp never went over halfway but car wouldn't start after. When they turned the key back on, temp gauge was in the red. After it had cooled for a while, hubby tried to turn it over with booster cables hooked up, started to get a burned wire smell and smoke. Going to the mechanic tomorrow. Have reviewed many posts but did not see any related to this. Any suggestions?
  • andie321andie321 Posts: 2
    Same problem. I have the check engine code p1080 and I need a new engine or engine overhaul. I will never buy another Chrysler again. It was purchased new and although it looks good it runs awful. This is the only car I've purchased with so many problems. I'm going back to Nissan or Infiniti. Chrysler lacks reliability and dependability. :mad:
  • mollydedmmollydedm Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out what was wrong my chrysler is doing the same thing~!!
  • rmhutchrmhutch Posts: 2
    Needed new radiator. Drove for a month, started wearing tires. had a tie rod replaced, new tires. A month later, tires were still wearing, had to have the rubber piece (carrier bearing) in the rear drive shaft replaced. Was able to have it repaired for less than $400. New tires again, driving well now for 2+ months. DO really like the car, so I'm hoping this is just normal maintenance issues.
  • jking84jking84 Posts: 1
    I have read several of the above posts dating back to 2012. I started having similar issues. My car is at 85k. I bought the car used at 30K (1 previous owner) no issues till this past year. I had 2 fuel pump sending units that went out and were replaced. then I had issues at the gas pump getting gas to go in the car. Took car to Chrylser 3x and they act clueless. I'm also having issues with oil in the car. Just this morning I noticed my temperature gauge is higher than it normally is. I can't afford maintenance on this car either. Any suggestions from anyone on where to turn to?
  • I just bought mine and now to have to replace engine because they no longer the car the part I need is on back order and has been for over a year so my only option is to replace whole engine!!!! What did you end up doing? Did they help or anything
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