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Ford Ranger Fuel System

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Comments

  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have the same problem smelling gas when I open my rear window. As far as I can tell there is no leak, just a bad smell of gas. So I have to keep my window shut. And my truck idles weird going down the road like it wants to stall. And when I stop at a red light it acts like it wants to die. Everything replaced. Is there a recall? Or should I say there should be a recall..
  • having same problem with 2004 ranger, did you get yours fixed? what was your solution? thanks
  • tungatetungate Posts: 1
    every thing on truck works but the gas hand. when first time the key comes on the hand will g o over past the full and then it goes slowly to empty mark and stays there. fuse is not shot.
  • dsm2dsm2 Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    I had the same problem with my 1986 Ford Ranger for 7 years now. The low pressure fuel pump seems to be acting up so I had to drop the fuel tank and disconnect what you called the "main hose" and filler tube to the tank. What I found inside that "main hose" was another smaller hose which you cannot see unless you actually take out the filler tube (mine has three screws and a hose clamp) that is actually the main hose and is supposed to be connected to the filler tube that slides into the secondary safety hose but it was disconnected (partially blocking both tubes causing the fuel to be pumped partially through that secondary safety hose (no fuel should be running through that hose while fueling up) and the main hose which in turn caused the fuel to back up in the filler tube and shut off the gas station fuel pump unless they set the pump to pump gas slowly. If I knew there was another tube inside that visible outer tube I would have been able to understand better of what could be wrong. The only reason I found the answer to this problem is because I had another problem. I guess that outer tube protects the inner tube. I don't know how the inner hose came off the filler tube but I could see the outline of a clamp of some kind but it was gone. I checked the inside of the fuel tank and found nothing. maby it was made out of a plastic and just disintegrated in the fuel tank. Anyway I just put a hose clamp on it since their is enough room inside the secondary hose.
  • mekanikosmekanikos Posts: 1
    You might replace the coil pack. I had a similar problem with my '04 ranger, and after a huge run-around with the dealer and my mechanic playing with fuel pumps/relays/fuses, the mechanic called a friend who told him to replace the coil pack (70 dollars) and ... voila - good as new. (1500 other dollars and two fuel pumps later though) (blarggh)
  • punkboypunkboy Posts: 1
    I have replaced the # 5 and 6 fuel injectors but am still experiencing a fuel leak. What could be causing this as i have taken off the lower manifold twice to see if I have tightened them properly but i still have a fuel leak. I am an apprentice mechanic and have not run into this issue before hope you can help
  • On the passenger side under dash board is a relay switch or something like a relay switch push in on the top of it I think it is green on top and it will start.Mine does that all the time and this is my fix..
  • 1speedy1speedy Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    I got a 94 4 Cycle with 8 plugs.It cranks good and drives good.I bought it used.The odmitor reads 276k I was told the motor was replaced.It runs and iddlese good for about 30 to 40 seconds then it just chokes its self out if I don't keep the gas on.If I keep it reving for about 2min,it will rev up faster,I let go of the gas and then no problems then.IV had it at a mechanic Shop,they said its cause its got a lot of miles.The 98 motor that was suposably put in it suposably only had 50k miles on it.It runs excellent.I just wanna be able to get in it and take off.I look like a damn idiot reving my truck before I have to go somewhere.Can somebody please give me a clue on what to do next.IV done a complete tune up and replaced fuel filter.
  • A bad inertial switch, autoparts calls it fuel cutoff, can cause either stalling on the road, or failure after being parked. My local dealer tried to sell me a second new fuel pump after the one installed in my old location failed to fix the problem. I specifically asked the service manager if there was some kind of switch related to motion because I was able to push start it. He told me he didn't know of any. Most or all fords have had this collision safety feature for more than 10 years.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    edited November 2011
    And, that thing has a reset button on it, if it should be tripped. (It 'should' only trip when the truck hits something or turns over. This thing then shuts the fuel pump down.) It's just behind the carpet, above the passengers left foot.

    P.S. If your are push-starting your truck, I don't think the fuel cutoff switch is your problem. If it gets tripped, you have to reset it. Now it does have wiring to it, and I think a relay also drives it. All these could be giving a problem.
  • With a hacksaw and screwdriver I was able to inspect the old switch. It is simple to bypass/test the switch when you are having problems. Pull the connector off the terminals of the switch and jump the driverside and center socket of the connector. A large paperclip might work, but something larger surely will. Since my problem was intermittent, I will not know if my problem is solved for a while. I did find corrosion on the contacts inside the switch, and there was enough slop to move off/onto this area with minor vibration, which could cause intermittent behavior.

    I am still trying to figure out why the dealer only wanted about one third the $130 autoparts price for the switch.

    Fuseable links, magnetic relays, and mechanical switches are about the only things that could be motion/vibration sensitive, and humidity/corrosion/debris wasn't a consideration in my case. I don't know of any other electrical components that cause intermittent problems, so it has/had to be mechanical(like the inertia switch or something else).

    The third socket on the connector kills the pump when connected to the center socket. Pushing the reset button opens this circuit at the same time it closes the other.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Find one at a salvage.
  • 2001 Ford Ranger. I've seen posts with this problem, but didn't see a reply. When I fill the tank, it clicks off at 9 gal. I let it go to empty. Mileage is about 224 miles. I fill again and it will click off again at 9 gal. The pump was replaced last year. After that was when the problems began. When it clicked off after a fill, the gauge would only read 3/4 and eventually 1/2 - it progressed to this. They replaced the float valve a couple of weeks ago and the gas gauge started dropping and now only reads 3/4 full. The mechanic doesn't know what to do. Any ideas? I'm currently on empty with the light on - I'm thinking of letting it run out believing that there are still 7 more gallons left in the tank. Maybe once I use all of the gas, the valve will operate properly??????????
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If the rubber hose that goes from the gas cap area to the tank is 'messed up', the tank will not fill all the way.

    Don't understand the 'replaced the float valve' comment. Usually, the fuel pump and 'float' for the gas guage are on the same unit and are replaced together. Especially since it's not easy to drop the tank to get to them. I think the guy that put the new 'float valve' in messed it up, otherwise your gauge should work. But the problem with the rubber hose is still there, if you cannot totally fill the tank.
  • Thanks for the reply - the mechanic had checked the hose first - tightened the clamp was about it, I believe. Since the pump was working fine, hence, just the float valve replacement alone.
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