Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Intermittent engine cut-out

obelix2obelix2 Posts: 1
I own a 96 3.0l V6 Grand Voyager that developed recently a strange problem:

Most days when the car reaches normal working temperature, the engine shuts down intermittently. This may be only one or more brief jolts or it may stay off for several seconds. This happen while driving 70+ mph on the highway. Ones it passes this phase it continues to run normally for the remainder of my 50 mile commute.
A few times, the car came to a stop and it took several minutes to restart the engine and a few times the engine did not start in the morning.
It appears to be electrical in some way, since adding a charger will mostly start the engine. The battery is brand new and fully charged.
The local mechanic does not find anything.
Any idea is appreciated.
Thanks, Obelix2

Comments

  • wurzwurz Posts: 1
    Did you ever find the solution to your Voyager's problem? I have a '95 Voyager (3.0 engine; auto trans; 177,000 miles) that seems to have the same problem - the engine loses power or dies intermittently, but then (usually) restarts almost immediately. It left me stranded on the freeway recently, however, so the problem is getting worse. On that occasion it started after being towed to a repair shop, so they couldn't solve it.
    I've checked all the electrical connections I can find under the hood and I also checked the ignition switch with an ohm meter. The only real clue I have so far is that the engine fires when the ignition switch is in the 'start' position, but it dies as soon as the switch is released to the 'run' position. I'm guessing that the engine electronic control unit is at fault, but it would be helpful to know how your situation was resolved.
    Thanks,
    wurz
  • Desperately seeking advice on how to fix the cause of our 2000 Dodge Caravan's engine cutting out when coming to a stop light/sign, making a turn through an intersection and intermittently on the freeway with no warning. Problem just started this summer. This issue poses a danger and am afraid of being t-boned or rear-ended. There are no dashboard indicator lights lit, just RPM goes to zero. Have replaced the fuel filter...no improvement. Have taken it to AutoZone for a read and there was nothing on it. We've read on other blogs where folks have taken their Caravans to dealers and the dealer's just scratch their heads. No indicator lights, problem doesn't register on their diagnostic tools. We've also read where it could be the EGR, but have also read it's not the EGR. Other blogs have indicated it could be a problem with the Throttlebody. We can't afford to put it out of its misery and replace it with a newer vehicle so we need to fix the problem soon before we cause an accident.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,524
    Does the van start right up again without any problems?

    It may be the MAS (Mass Airflow Sensor) that is causing the issue. I had a very similar problem with a Subaru Outback many years ago, where it would randomly stall (typically approaching or leaving an intersection). No CEL, no other symptoms. I wasted several hundred dollars on "diagnostics" with no success when one mechanic suggested it might be the MAS. I found a used one for relatively cheap, installed it, and never had that problem again. Now, here's the interesting thing.... about five years later, I gave that same MAS (the one I removed from my car) to a fella who had his go out. He cleaned it up (I think he took a carburetor cleaner to the sensor element) and it worked just fine for him for over a year.

    So, maybe yours just needs to be cleaned?
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • Yes, the van starts right up again with no problem other than it gets pretty hairy in mid-turn trying to shift into neutral and crank the engine all the while trying to turn the steering wheel without power.

    I sprayed the throttlebody last night with trottle cleaner which seems to have helped, but it's too soon to tell for sure. I like your idea and will also try cleaning the MAS. Thanks for the tip!
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Have the ignition wires ever been replaced on the vehicle? Some times when the ignition wires are bad, the shut down problem only arises when the engine is fully warmed up. If the wires have never been changed, I would change them. Good luck.
  • Have similar problem a few years ago - cutting out when suddenly (non-gradually) release gas pedal. Starts OK after that, cuts off in next stop/turn.
    1. cleaned throttle where air comes in - helped a little
    2. checked EGR valve, it could stuck open: disconnect the vac. tube from it (put something on the end of the tube to prevent vacuum leak). It will pollute, but if it stabilized then EGR is bad. That was my case - replaced EGR, runs good since.
  • My buddy had a '97 that would fail to start form time to time. After MANY times looking for a problem that would never shoe itself while I could look at the car, (it always started when I saw it), We found that the instrument panel has both input and output. Some of the solder joints were cracked and caused the intermittent trouble. It would actually start, run for just a second and cut off. It was similar to the fire in start, but not in run described above. I simply cleaned the coating off the panel back and resoldered any connection that looked like it may be cracked. It has been at least a year since with no more trouble. I know it is not the exact trouble the OP described, but I'd be willing to bet it contributes, or at least will fix some other poster's trouble.

    Good luck.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,524
    What was the manifestation of the no-start? Would it crank and crank, with no firing of the engine? Or, would it fail to crank at all? Any other symptoms that you recall, such as no activation of the fuel pump, etc?
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • it would crank, run for just a bit and stop. Basically crank and sputter to a stop. NOT at all like the fuel was not there. I cannot remember if I checked for fuel at the rail. I usually do that first, though. The fuel gauge was intermittant at best (it is only marginally better now), I think the gauges would either be zero, or would go full sweep. I don't remember.
    Murphy's law.... Every time I went to rescue the van, it started right up wehn I got it to my shop. I don't recall it ever cutting out going down the road. I do remember my buddy BEATING the dash wehn it would not start, an dit finally did start for him.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,524
    Okay, thanks. I am getting normal operation in the instrument cluster, plus no fuel, spark, or injector activity, so this is likely a differently caused situation. I do have the intermittent instrument cluster malfunction, though, so figured it may be worth a shot. I am very fed up and very disappointed with my van. I guess it was bound to happen sooner or later; after all, it is a Chrysler.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • rienrien Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Chrysler Voyager and had the same problem: it was running perfect when I parked the car, but when I restarted it it an hour or so later, I cranked it, it ran for a couple of seconds and then stopped. I could never get it going again and it left me clueless for what was wrong with it for the 1st time in years.
    The Dutch AAA (I live in the Netherlands) checked everything they could think of, but couldn't find a clue why it didn't work. After an hour or so the mechanic called the helpdesk and they instructed the mechanic to remove the heating panel (just 4 screws) and unplug and plug the 2 plugs you find on the back of the panel. That did it! The reason: A bad connection (ground) gives the wrong signal in the computer. BEATING the dashboard MAY have had the same result!
  • 1999 Plymouth Voyager dies when running, apparently after reaching a certain level of "hotness".

    Starts fine. Runs 10 to 20 minutes (longer on a super cold day), then cuts off entirely. Cuts off quicker at higher speeds. Pull over dead, try ignition, nothing whatsoever. Wait 5 minutes, starts up fine and runs for 5 minutes then dies again. I did this 6 times on my 1/2 hour way home last Thursday night. First time I called AAA, then started and went, called AAA back to cancel and it died second time. No tow that night.

    Last night, a new problem. ran it, it died, I pulled over, waited 5 minutes, now it turned over but wouldn't start (previously it wouldn't even turn over). BUT after an hour, it did start right up and I drove it back home again, no problem. BUT a new thing, suddenly the speedometer is stuck on zero.

    Tried an ignition coil, no help. Tried a cam sensor, no help. ($160 for parts I put in myself) It says "thank you for the contribution, but we're not fixed yet". Is there a quota of wasted money beyond which it will just fix itself?

    Could be an interruption in charging....because another problem is some sort of power leak that will drain the battery just below starting capability in only 5 minutes or 10 of leaving the interior light dimmer control any where but OFF.

    BUT Alternator tests good at 14.5 V, AND battery will still start the vehicle on a 5 below zero morning.
  • When this happened to me a few times, it was the camshaft position sensor that was the problem. Just another tho't to add to the mix. ;o)
  • I am desperately trying to find the location of the camshaft position sensor. Could ya help me on on this one? 3.0 liter motor, thanks.
  • On the 11/07/11 i attended NAG (Nepean Auto Group) for an intermittent fault with my 1999 Chrysler Voyager’s warning lights and ignition system.
    This fault caused the car to start and cut out moments later, or the instrument cluster would fail while driving and not start the next time. The remedy that i had been using prior to taking to NAG was to disconnect the battery for 1+ hours and the problem seemed to go away for varied periods of time. This remedy i discovered after charging the battery when the fault first appeared any eliminating the fact that the battery was already fully charged.
    After having the car for 4 days NAG contacted me and i was told the car was ready to be picked up but further work was needed as they had not fixed the problem and were in fact not sure what the EXACT problem was. i attended, paid and attempted to start my vehicle. This was to no avail, the car would not start. A technician came out to the vehicle and tested it again with some sort of computer and said that there was nothing he could do and that i needed to order the parts suggested on my receipt. (See attachments)
    I disconnected the battery and an hour or so later reconnected it, started the car and drove home.
    Not wanting to spend $287 plus labour and probably $2213 plus labour as recommended in the receipt from NAG, on a car that now has a market value of approx. $5000 I persevered with disconnecting the battery.
    The fault increased in frequency to the point that it was happening every day until on the 30/09/2011 the car failed to start at all and was towed home by NRMA. When the patrolman attended he informed me that that the fault was the immobilizer and i should see an auto electrical company to look at it. I told him the story from NAG and he said that VERY RARELY do computers and skims need replacing and that by his testing it was most likely the immobilizer.
    By chance that night while looking for a local auto electrician on the internet I found the following information. (Links to these pages and information listed and the end of this information)
    My summation of this information is that there is a COMMON fault in the Chrysler 1997 – 2002 model Voyager WORLDWIDE as listed in all the links and blogs I attended. This common fault is the same as my vehicle was displaying.
    I note that a number of these stories included people spending 1000’s of dollars/pounds replacing the exact parts recommended to me to be replaced by NAG.
    Using the steps and procedures listed in these web pages I fixed my own car in an hour and a half by locating a loose terminal as described, located behind my instrument cluster. The problem is now GONE.
    A number of other further websites and blogs spoke of other wiring issues, all including earthing issues behind the instrument cluster or in different locations behind the dash, BUT ALL OF THESE WIRING FAULTS HAD THE SAME OUT COME. Car starts and then cuts out with warning light on dash.

    I approached NAG in good faith, believing that they are the foremost authority on the operation and service of my 1999 Chrysler Voyager and asked them to diagnose the fault in my vehicle. They failed to do so correctly and in turn I was charged $143 to be told I needed to spend another $287 plus labour and if that did not fix the problem another $2213 plus labour.
    Clearly in hindsight this would not have fixed my problem.
    I contacted the service manager at NAG and explained my situation. I requested that my $143 be refunded due to the reasons listed above and in turn offered him the details of the web pages and blogs that let me fix my vehicle so that that he and Chrysler may better service their customers in the future with this particular fault.
    He refused a refund but was more than happy to take the information.

    LINKS
    http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=56470
    http://en.allexperts.com/q/Chrysler-Repair-807/f/Voyager-Immobiliser.htm
    http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/general-tech-11/grand-voyager-1998-3-3-immobi- liser-problems-4653/
    http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/98-voyager-s- tarted-ran-2-secs-stopped-will-now-not-turn-over-12222/
    http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/immobiliser-- issues-12052/
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/landar/show/with/3474557830
  • Just a note to say THANK YOU! I have had this problem intermittently for months, with all the grief and expense that go along with it. I also read dozens of forum posts here and there without finding the pertinent details for my exact problem.

    All of that ended yesterday. Thank you so much for making the effort to share this information!!!

    Regards,
    Scott
  • I have this same problem and my mechanic said today its in the wiring but will take another day to find it. I am going to bring your article and give to him, hopefully this will spend things up. I will let ya'll know.
  • I have this same problem and my mechanic said today its in the wiring but will take another day to find it. I am going to bring your article and give to him, hopefully this will spend things up. I will let ya'll know.
  • Drucemeister,
    I know this is a 3-yr. old post but I am so glad I found it. Have been having the intermittent activation of the anti-theft system and loss of the instrument cluster lights on my wife's 98 Grand Caravan. Very, very frustrating as we've been stranded a number of times. Banging the top of the instrument cluster works....for now. I can't wait to take the instrument cluster apart this weekend...as I'm sure it's a bad solder connection.
    Thanks again!
    naperjohn
  • orionfeorionfe Posts: 4
    edited September 2013
    I have a 2000 Plymouth Grand Voyager and have looked at the posts concerning "Intermittent engine cutoff". My problem is a little different. In those posts, the engine starts and shuts off after a few brief seconds. Mine will run a few weeks or so. It usually happens in the middle of a turn, but the engine just shuts off. I can throw it in neutral and it starts right back up with the key and doesn't do it again for a while. I've checked the heater panel and the instrument panel circuit board as described in prior post and have found nothing. I've checked all the wiring under the hood and "Jiggled" each connection while the van is running. I can even start it with the instrument panel completely out of the van and the heater panel disconnected. I reconnect the connections on both panels while the van is running and jiggle the connection and it just keeps running. Very hard to duplicate the malfunction. I've checked the fuse box wiring, inside and out, the ECM wiring, the BCM wiring, the coil wiring, the harness connections under the battery, etc. You name it, I've checked it. The van also has an alarm on it and I've jiggled those wires as well while it's running and nothing I seem to do, kills the engine. I can put it all back together, drive for a while and it happens again. Then it starts right back up. Any clues??? The van belongs to my daughter and I don't want it dying in the middle of a turn with her at the controls because we all know what happens when you lose power (No brakes, no power steering, etc.). :mad: Please help.
  • reonreon Posts: 19
    Check the motor mounts and grounding straps. Engine may be shifting.
  • orionfeorionfe Posts: 4
    edited September 2013
    Good point. I didn't even think of that but yeah, you're right. I feel like it's losing a ground somewhere so I'll check them tomorrow and let you know. (Getting dark). Thanks again!
  • I coun't stand it so I went ahead and checked the mounts. They look good but the only ground strap I saw was the one on the top/front (passenger side) mount. Are there more? I even tried to make the engine shift with it in drive, foot on the brake and accelerating. Same in reverse. Still running......
Sign In or Register to comment.