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Dodge Durango Starting and Stalling Problems



  • kym625kym625 Posts: 1
    Okay so I had my starter changed about 3 weeks ago. Since then it ran fine for about a week. It was low on gas, but not completely empty when the starter went out. Now when I go to start it i have to pump the gas most times to get it started. When it does start I have to hold on the gas for a min or two to keep it running. Then slowly let off the gas and it runs fine. We did change the terminals on the battery and don't know our next move to make. Today when I drove it it did stall out on me and then started again and drove fine. I don't get it? If anyone has some advice i would appreciate it.
  • I hope you have fixed before now, but if you haven't your electrical system is being drained by a minor short somewhere. remove all unnecessary fuse's and relay's to item's such as power windows, seats, radio, power outlets etc... If the power loss and resetting of your pulse width to your fuel injector's keep's happening you have a serious problem in your wiring harness under the hood. let me explain the stalling out or chattering of the Auto Shut down relay is do to power loss and computer/securtiy confusion.
    the computer teach's itself when started the first 3 time's after a new battery is installed, what the pulse width of the fuel injector's should be. so even if you have free'd the shorted wire you still think you have a problem because the vehicle won't stay running. It will but you must start and feather gas pedal several time's for it to reteach itself. Finding the short is your next primary goal. Putting an Amp meter inline with the battery with engine off ignition off and seeing the amp draw, and removing fuse's and relay's one at a time untill the amp draw goes away is the normal technique. remember do not turn key on or start engine as this may damage your voltage or multi-meter, when using it as an amperage probe.
  • Hi, I left the country for 3 months, and left my Durango 2001 to sit in the garage (hot central California) for 3 months with about an 1/8 of a tank of gas. When I came home, of course the battery was dead. I got a jump and it ran ok until I stopped somewhere, then I had to jump it again, now, it stalls when in idle, and must always have my foot on the pedal to keep it running. I'm charging battery now, but don't know what to look for about the stalling problem. It was running perfect before I left the country. Please tell me what to do and how to check it. I am a woman and I need to find a mechanic that I can trust.
  • camp8camp8 Posts: 10
    My 2000 Durango has always gone through batteries rather quick. Last time I bought one from walmart with a 3 year free replacement guarantee. Now it won't start, either clicks or nothing at all. Took the battery back to walmart, they said the battery is still good, and the problem is probably corrosion on the + connection on starter coming from battery. They said it is a common problem on dodges. Is this true? I haven't found anything about this on internet searches.
  • Good evening,
    While looking for a solution to my problem I ran across yours and can offer you some help. To start I've been rebuilding cars most of 50 years as both a hobby and part time profession. So my suggestions are unbiased and as honest as possible. I hate to see people get scammed by dishonest mechanics. So I will give you some incite on several ideas about why your having these problems. Because you let your vehicle sit in a hot climate with only 1/8th of a tank of fuel is not really a good thing. Because of the change in temps from hot to cold day and night you have most likely caused the fuel in the tank and in your fuel lines to loose both octane and evaporate causing the fuel to build up a kind of tarnish in your system.
    This could include your fuel injectors. The cheapest solution would be to go to an auto parts store or a Wal-Mart and purchase a can of "Sea Foam" fuel line treatment. Don;t let anyone talk you in to buying a cheaper brand. sea Foam is exclusive in marine applications and works very well and very quickly to clean out your fuel system. Prior to filling your tank with gas pour in the entire can of Sea Foam. then add as much gas as you need to bring the tank to about 3/4 full. Do not fill it all the way up. Leaving the Sea Foam in a more concentrated state it will not dilute it as much as a full tank would.
    This will make it work faster in your system. I would also suggest you purchase a higher octane gas than the cheapest 87 octane fuel you can buy. A mid grade 89 or high test 93 octane will also work better as the first tank in your Durango since it has been stored. After you use up that tank you should see a marked improvement in your idle and stalling should totally subside. If it still is giving your trouble but running better try repeating the process with the sea foam a second time before taking it to a garage you don't know or trust. Depending on how it was stored it may take two cleanings. If you have to store it again for any length of time I would suggest that you buy a bottle of "Staybil" here is a link so you know what it is.
    I would also consider having a battery disconnect switch installed in your durango. when your ready to go out of town I would park it in it's final storage location and then use the disconnect switch to disconnect the battery from the vehicle and the computer. This way the battery will not drain down while your gone. You might want to purchase a small 2-3 amp battery charger/conditioner that can be left on the battery while your away.
    This will keep it charged up so when you return all you need to do is turn the disconnect switch back on and start the vehicle. You will have to reset your radio stations and your clock. But those are minor to spending several hundred dollars to just get your Durango running again. I hope this helps you out. If you need further help drop me an email at and I'll do my best to make sure you don't get scammed by a local garage.
    God bless,
    Alex W.
    Roanoke, VA
    (ps: please forgive any spelling errors. It's been a very long day for me.)
  • I have a 2000 Dodge Durango and recently I have been having some issue. The first on I had was the battery being drained within a matter of a few hours. The problem ended up being the relay on my rear defroster fixed it and that problem was solved. After I fixed it I started have blocks around the gears in my console the bottom arrow is completely gone and I have no clue to why it happen. The more important issue is the stalling when I first drive it, it is fine if I make a stop and start using it again it starts to stall after a few miles whenever I use the brake and sometime if im taking a turn. It always starts up fine and it doesn't make and usual noise or anything else to indicate any issue. I am completely stumped.

    Any help would be greatly appciated thanks.
  • I purchased my 2002 Dodge Durango in the summer of 2009. 5.9, SLT - fully loaded to the max, I also even added flowmasters and thru in a KN filter. Beautiful truck!! BUT...(and I paid for cash for it also) - This SUV spent more time on a flat-bed getting towed then it did on the road with me behind the wheel. It would not start - I had to replace the PCM (computer) cost me over $900.00 -the magnetic pickup later on went, and of course, the thing would not start or it would stall without warning on the roadways!! Shortly after I fixed those issues, the radiator went entirely. I had this truck for nearly 3yrs and I only put 4,000 miles on it. The rest of the time it was broke, wouldn't run or was on a flat-bed being towed.

    *** Listen up fellow RAM OWNERS *** On May 22, 2011 I was driving to the corner store just to get some milk, 6:40pm on a Sunday evening. From my house to where the intersection meets is less than 1/4 of a mile...I made a right turn and proceeded to this little store .3 (tenths) of a mile away. I NEVER MADE IT. The last thing I remember was the gas light had went on, I knew I could make it to and from that store then get gas in the a.m. Instead, the very next thing I knew I was being placed into the passenger seat, because they could not cut me out of the truck. EMTs were at the driver's door assisting me, Firemen and another EMT were in the back seat also assisting. I looked out of my windshield, I could see the black paint,............well the black hood all crinkled up and I asked "What happened." Then I heard an EMT say "Helicopter" and another yelled for a "backboard." -

    As I was driving and not going over 40 miles an hr, it was impossible to do the store I was heading to was yards away - however, the front axle broke while I was driving, the hub, tire arm/rod - the whole package came apart while I was driving without ANY warning whatsoever. NO vibrations - the steering wheel didn't vibrate, shake -the tires ....NONE of those things indicated such a traumatic accident was seconds away from occuring. When the front end snapped, the truck fell forward straight into the asphalt of the road I was driving on, then the airbags deployed, the truck then went out of control, crossed the oncoming lane, went off the road hit 3 trees, 2 telephone poles and into someone's house -HEAD ON. THANKFULLY NO ONE WAS INJURED!!!!!! To top it off, I was knocked out for nearly 11 mins....and get this, which is a Blessing............I DID NOT HEAR A SOUND, I WAS NOT CONSCIOUS DURING THE ENTIRE CRASH, - in fact, the very next day I was trying to figure out where I crashed at, I even had friends drive down certain roads nearby looking for the remains of this viscious crash I endured. BUT no one could find it. Then I got the newspaper and there it was, in full color on the front page along with the exact location and details of the accident ---- it was my truck. If it weren't for that paper I wouldn't of known where I wrecked at (yes I would've of course eventually but I wanted to know right then and at that very moment!)

    I was not flown in a helicopter thankfully- just wisked away on a backboard and neck collar, not even on a stretcher, a backboard with 6 guys carrying me to an awaiting ambulance. It was as if I was in a war-zone. FORTUNATELY --------I WAS OK, I ONLY SUSTAINED AN UPPER THIGH HEMOTOMA, AND THEN WAS DIAGNOSED WITH AN UPPER THIGH HERNIA - (the top of my left thigh hit the bottom of the steering wheel hard as heck, in fact the bruising was so bad that it bled thru my skin, and I literally had to wipe it with a damp cloth time to time. The air bags did work thankfully, I had not a single scratch on my face, no neck or back injuries etc -

    Long story short..............My Durango had 29 recalls on it!!!! 6 of them were for the front end!! The axle, tire-arm/rod, the hub etc - and it states "may cause the driver to suddenly lose control of the vehicle resulting in a motor vehicle crash." I have done my home work, and yes I have legal counsel also that I retained. I want my money back that I paid for the truck,........3 yrs prior, I lost my only brother unexpectedly he was 31 yrs old...... I am bringing his passing up because - yes these trucks have recalls on them,......BIG cannot recall a life. NOR buy it back either. I want Dodge to do as Toyota did when the throttle on their cars had that sticking issue, Toyota went public, they admitted the problem and urged -in fact strongly urged customers that if they own that particular make of Toyota to bring it to the dealership and it would be corrected free of charge. Hey - if something is broke or recalled long as they fix it, - then fine, I dont' care, I wouldn't of cared BUT I NEVER WAS NOTIFIED ABOUT ANY OF THE RECALLS THE DURANGO HAD and guess what fellow RAM lovers..........ALL MODELS - DODGE DURANGOS YRS 1998-2005 ARE ALL RECALLED FOR THE EXACT REASONS WHY I LISTED ABOVE!!! SO ARE THE RAM PICKUPS, MINIVANS, DAKOTAS....ETC........ My truck was evaluated by the National Transportation Safety Board, someone came from Washington D.C. to take a look at my Durango. AND if any of you would like to see photos of my truck, kindly email me or reply here and I will send you a few photos. BTW - just google the make, yr and model of your Dodge, see for won't believe the pages and pages of recalls on these things!!!! They are a death trap and or one in the making.....Please be careful, get your's looked at and research this - this is not a joke, I am just trying to help those of you who do not know about this and/or all of the recalls the trucks have.

    be careful - do your research -and unfortunately, Dodge won't say a damn thing about it, (YET ANYWAY BUT THEY WILL!!!) there also have been fatalities due to the problem I listed above that caused my crash. I loved that truck BUT NEVER EVER AGAIN will I drive one!!!

    if you would like to see photos, respond here and I will gladly show you the pictures I have of my Durango. (thankfully the airbags weren't recalled!!!)
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    First off, was it a 4wd or 2wd? What was the mileage?
    Actually, many of us do have a clue about this. The problem on some first generation Durangos was due to upper ball joints that allowed moisture to enter the joint, displace the grease, and eventually wear out the dry joint (somewhat quickly). The recall was issued around 2005 or 2006 for 2000 - 2003 models, but only 4wd. The 2wd models were only afforded a longer warranty (10yrs/100k miles, if I remember right) on the front ball joints. I think the rational here was that the 4wd models would get more severe front end travel and wear thus would be more of a risk. The rest of the front end parts you mentioned were usually casualties of the ball joint seperating. I'm not saying that this was what caused your accident, but would be a front runner for cause I think.
    Since you didn't own it whe the recall was issued I guess one could surmise that was the reason you weren't aware of it. I have a 2000 SLT 4wd 4.7 that I had the recall done on around 2007 or 2008, but the upper ball joints had been checked a couple of times and were OK prior to that. I don't put that many miles on the Dodge, it only has 103K on it now after 12 years or so. I'm not aware of so many "recalls", but there is a lot of service bulletins out there on this model, most of which I know about but won't go into now.
    I wish you good luck with your legal action though. I think that any gain you receive from it will more than be offset by your costs however.
    I enjoyed reading your post, that must have been a hair-raising day indeed!
  • audia88audia88 Posts: 2
    try the pcm .. i changed mine and it helped you can get them on line cheaper than what you would pay at auto parts store
  • agaddyagaddy Posts: 1
    I am at a loss. I have a 2002 dodge durango SLT + and have had it since 2005. I have had TONS of front end problems, stalling, windows falling down in the doors, brakes, ETC. We haven't received anything about recalls either. This hits too close to home for me. I am driving around with my 4 children on a daily basis and I just so happened to stumble onto this website looking for info about my radiator leaking. Something defiantly needs to be done about all the issues. Dodge should pay for the obvious problems that EVERYONE seems to be having. I would def be interested in seeing the photos if you wouldn't mind. Glad to hear that you weren't severely injured.
  • 2012 dodge durango when try to start act like starter bad took to dealer needs tipim cause its not activating the fuel pump parts are on international backorder and not under recall (strange) if this part is out of stock for at least 30 days that means there is a problem with it !! no one can get the part and no satisfaction from customer service !! for a 2012 dodge durango!!!
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    What's a "tipim"?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,944
    edited September 2013
    Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM).

    Sounds like it's a fancy electrical switchbox using integrated circuits.

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • HI i have been waiting over 30 days for my TIPM replacement part to come in. Dodge had me pay 1900.00 to replace the gas pumps and battery, i wonder if the gas pumps were ever the real issue here? Last year the water pump went out as well, it too was on backorder. Is this normal for dodge?
  • I have a 1998 dodge Durango I drove it to grocery store with no problem finished doing my shopping came out and got in my durango I tried to start it and it won't start. Bought a new starter relay cause as I was trying to start my vehicle a guy came to help me, my lights turns on my horn works my stereo works but my lock from inside the vehicle won't lock manually, checked all fuses it's all good, oh I tried jumping it but it still won't start so please what can you tell me is the problem with my vehicle. And two weeks ago I had just changed the water pump now it's this problem. Help
  • I forgot to mention I bought a new Starter.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    edited October 2013
    So when you turn the key to start what happens? Does the engine crank over but won't start? Or does it not crank at all?
  • yelleyelle Posts: 1
    I have a 2011 I been having exact same problem went to dealership and was told to try some fuel injection cleaner first doesn't work still having same problem. Yesterday it wouldn't start at all everything totally dead I'm taking it to shop today. I didn't expect to have problems already I only have a little over 40,000 miles on it
  • boydfboydf Posts: 2
    I have 2002 dodge durango. I can go out and cold start it at anytime works perfectly, but if I drive it to the store it may not start when I come back out. It cranks over fine just never acts like it is getting fuel or a spark to start. If I let it sit for 20 to 30min it will start right up. the check engine will come on but will go out on the drive home.
  • I also have a 2011 and it's doing the same thing, when I turn the ignition it stays on like if it's stuck then I turn it not all the way where I can move my gears and then it starts and turns off and it starts and stays on. When I stop driving and cools down, it does it all over. They said can be several things, but a car that only has 40,000 miles should not be having these problems this soon. They mention it could be electrical, starter, fuel pump, pmi? But have to pay $110 so they can tell me and probably several more hundreds to fix.
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