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Got a Quick Question for a Car Dealer?

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  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    I see this everyday....some dealers have the belief that you tell the customer "anything they want to hear" on the phone to get them into the dealership....regretfully only a small number of people who fall for this actually get up and walk out...they usually just take the price bump with the dopey explination why the price just went up and buy the car. It's sad that dealers do this and it even worse than consumers fall for it all the time. If it didn't work, the questionable dealers wouldn't do it.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 13,589
    My wife and I would have been a perfect candidate for that in August when we bought our new Acura. I had contacted a deal about 2 hours away (since that was the closest one exactly like my wife wanted) via the internet. I got a price back from the internet guy, but it was over the phone. And got offered a special deal to get it that day (Friday 8/31). So, I said OK, and arranged to show up at late dinner time.

    But, I did not actually have anything in writing, or related to a specific car. And was going to be 2 hours from home, on a Friday night. So they certainly would have had some leverage to try a bait and switch of some kind, but they did not. Price was exactly what we had discussed on the phone.

    the rest of the saga, well that had nothing to do with the price offered up front!

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • kevinc5kevinc5 Posts: 204
    Which dealer? I'm sure they'd appreciate a plug.
  • Hi all,

    I'm new to these forums. Wife and I have a 1 year old baby and the baby seat is just taking up too much room in our Accord.

    She's really interested in the Q5. I've been passively looking around and trying to read more about used vehicles, CPO's, etc. So I came across this listing:

    CARFAX Vehicle History Report for this 2011 AUDI Q5 PREMIUM:
    http://apicdn.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=00cbe74ab3cc73d8c23633ea4149cb- f5&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.audiforums.com%2Fforum%2Faudi-q5-76%2Fbuying-multiple-sh- ort-term-lease-q5-191268%2F&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.carfax.com%2FVehicleHistory%2Fp- %2FReport.cfx%3Fpartner%3DDLR_3%26vin%3DWA1CFAFP2BA079135%23OwnershipHistorySect- ion&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.audiforums.com%2Fforum%2Faudi-q5-76%2F

    My questions if anybody knows:
    1. Is it a negative to see an Audi being sold at a Toyota dealership?
    2. This vehicle had three personal leases, all at around 5-6 months. I've never leased before but these seem like very short leases. Another bad sign?
    3. The vehicle was first delivered in Hawaii, then sent to Oregon, then to Palo Alto. I figure shipping any car from Hawaii has to be expensive, is this a sign that the Hawaii dealership really wanted to get rid of a lemon?

    Thanks, don't want to come across as paranoid but the price on this vehicle seems a lot lower than others I've come across.
  • kyfdx@Edmundskyfdx@Edmunds Posts: 25,914
    That is one weird Carfax. Could possibly be a good explanation, like someone leased in Hawaii, then moved to Oregon with the car. But, either way, they didn't keep it very long.

    Could be an Audi employee lease.. Those are generally short-term. Have you asked the Toyota dealer how they got the car?

    Moderator - Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,897
    that is odd. I would take the vin to an audi dealer and ask them to pull the warranty history on it.

    But, putting that aside, have you actually tried a babyseat in the back of the Q5? Because, according to the specs, the backseats of both an '08-'12 Accord and a Q5 are nearly identical. I don't know what year your accord is. Even an '03-'07 Accord gives up only a half inch rear legroom to the Q5.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • I, too was surprised that a leasing company would let someone take the car out of Hawaii. Perhaps they didn't know about it?
  • verdugoverdugo Posts: 1,978
    But, putting that aside, have you actually tried a babyseat in the back of the Q5? Because, according to the specs, the backseats of both an '08-'12 Accord and a Q5 are nearly identical. I don't know what year your accord is. Even an '03-'07 Accord gives up only a half inch rear legroom to the Q5.

    I was surprised about that too. An Accord is not a tiny car. One car seat for a 1 year old shouldn't be the only reason to trade in.

    But it's not my money, so more power to the OP.
  • Thanks for the information. We haven't actually tried a carseat in the Q5 yet, we're planning to stop by the dealership this weekend to try it out. Again, we're only starting the process of looking so we're not dead set on the Q5. I posted my question mostly because of my inexperience with leases.

    That said, I think we're having more issues with the Accord due to 1. height and 2. width

    1. We have a Britax Marathon in the center of the backseats right now. Getting our 1 year old in and out is killing our backs because of the lower height of the Accord. We have to stoop pretty far down to put him inside. Once inside, we have to pick him up again to get him over the side of the carseat into the carseat itself. Because the Accord cabin height is lower, he sort of bangs his head during this maneuver.

    2. Sometimes my wife sits in the back when the baby is having one of his meltdowns while driving (screaming at the top of his lungs for the duration of the drive). He typically calms down when she sits back there. This isn't all the time, but when she is sitting in the back, with the Marathon carseat in the middle, there's literally no room for her. Her inside arm ends up resting on the carseat edge and it's almost like an economy class airline seat.

    3. We're planning on having baby #2 in the near future, so we're starting the car shopping process now.

    Again, thanks very very much for your information, greatly appreciated.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 13,589
    IIRC, from our recent looking, the Q5 was not all that roomy. I would say if yo uare planning on kid 2 soon, so 2 car seats, get something a bit roomier. Maybe MDX sized?

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • I happened to drive behind an MDX today and the width did look roomier, at least from the outside. We already planned to test drive one soon. My wife's only concern is she has never driven an SUV before (this would be her primary vehicle) so hopefully maneuvering one isn't too challenging for her.

    We'll probably look at the CR-V, Highlander, and Prius V as well. I have my doubts about the Prius V though, probably too small?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,897
    edited January 2013
    Prius and CRV both too small.

    Maybe the new Cmax hybrid? I have no idea how wide it is, but if its like the mazda5, its pretty roomy. At least easy to get kids in and out of. Too bad they don't have the sliding doors.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • kyfdx@Edmundskyfdx@Edmunds Posts: 25,914
    Once you drive a Q5, X3, etc.. It will be hard to step back to the CR-V or RAV4. None of those models are large or hard to maneuver. Most women love the higher seating position. I know my wife does.

    Moderator - Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 7,601
    Have you thought about a minivan??

    I know, I know - who wants to drive a minivan? Nobody - at first. But once you live with one for a while and haul kids around, go on vacation with them, et al, you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

    We've had an Odyssey for 12 years now and although it's relegated to 3rd car status, it still gets used due to its superior ability to comfortably haul people and gear.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 13,589
    agreed about the van. We got our first when we had our 2nd kid, and only got out of a van a few months ago, when the Baby was turning 17 and could drive herself around!

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • uga91uga91 Metro AtlantaPosts: 1,065
    I may have a confusing question. I bought a 2011 Nissan Maxima in January 2011 through Nissan Motor Acceptace at 1.9% for 72 months. I owe about $18,850 on it. It's in near perfect condition, completely dealership maintained and has less than 21,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if I'd personally be better off making about 6 more payments and then trading it or should I try to sell it in 3-4 months, bank a couple of payments and get that loan off of my credit report for a couple of months and then just buy a new car? I know most of my payment each month is going toward the principal, so each payment I make will help.

    There is nothing wrong with the Maxima and I love driving it--I'm just thinking about getting a car with a more functional back seat and doesn't use premium unleaded gasoline.
  • timadamstimadams Posts: 294
    I'm curious what kind of vehicles you are entertaining. I've driven a 2011 Maxima, and had an older model myself, and thought the back seats in both were fine. Certainly, there are cars with roomier back seats, including the Subaru Legacy I bought in 2011.

    But if finances are an issue - and I'm guessing they are if you took out a 72-month loan :surprise: - you pay sales taxes and registration fees every time you buy a car, and that can add up. Also, I understand that premium fuel costs a bit more than regular. But it looks like you drive about 11k miles per year. If premium costs 20 cents more per gallon and you are getting 25 MPG, that really adds up to only $88 per year.

    And one more thing - when you trade a car, you will only get a wholesale price, whereas when you buy a car you are paying retail. In other words, if you sold and bought the same identical car, you would likely lose at least a couple of thousand dollars in the process. Add the wholesale/retail issue, sales taxes and other transaction costs, and you will come out far ahead by simply keeping your Maxima longer.

    I know, buying a new car is exciting. But it is very costly to do so every couple of years. What you should really do is pay extra every month so you can pay off the car loan in two years. Then, keep the Maxima an additional two years and save the monthly car payments in a savings account. At that point - four years down the road - you will have a fully paid-off car and two years of payments in the bank as a down payment on your next car. Then, take out a 3-year car loan, keep the car six or seven years and pocket the monthly payments. Do that a couple of times, and you will have enough money to buy cars for cash with no loans. :)

    The bottom line is if you need a 4-, 5- or 6-year loan to buy a car, you really can't afford the car and should look at something a lot cheaper.
  • uga91uga91 Metro AtlantaPosts: 1,065
    Thanks for the lecture. No, I don't trade cars every 2 years--I had my last 2 cars over 5 years each. That's why I'm not sure which way to go may be the better personal option. No, it's not finances. I took the 6 year loan to get the payments low when I need a low payment and I pay extra when I can, as well--that's how I got a $30k loan to $18.8k in 2 years. If NMAC wants to give away 0% for 60 months or 1.9% for 72 months, then I might as well take advantage of it and use my money to pay off thinks that will have higher interest rates.

    I have 3 children and they are only getting bigger and when the 5 of us go places in my car, someone always complains of being cramped. We do have a Sienna, so please don't suggest I get a van or SUV. I was thinking about something like a new Accord or Altima.

    This is the first car I've ever owned that used premium and I'm no longer having fun paying the premium for it (I get 21-22 mpg back & forth from work, not 25). At 11k miles per year at 22mpg, that's 500 gallons per year at $4 per gallon (right now, this is the cheapest premium has been for a while) or $2000 a year. In a new car getting 28 mpg on $3.30 regular fuel, that's $1296 a year, or $704 a year cheaper--quite a bit more than the $88 calculated above.

    I was just wondering if anyone out there had any helpful advice for this question or not. Maybe it really is a stupid question; but, I'd rather get advice than a lecture from someone who doesn't know me.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,897
    edited January 2013
    I took the 6 year loan to get the payments low when I need a low payment and I pay extra when I can, as well--that's how I got a $30k loan to $18.8k in 2 years. If NMAC wants to give away 0% for 60 months or 1.9% for 72 months, then I might as well take advantage of it and use my money to pay off thinks that will have higher interest rates.

    Absolutely! I do this all the time.

    As for the premium concern, you absolutely can run regular fuel in your Maxima. The computer will take care of the timing so you won't feel any ill effects. It could impact your mileage, however. You'll have to test it and see.

    But, putting cost aside, if you need a bigger car, then you need a bigger car.

    While I can't predict the future value of your trade-in, it is usually best to pay it down as much as possible. You would only be gaining equity with every month that goes by. So try to hold out as long as you can. At the same time, you gotta do what you gotta do. I just don't think any midsize sedan is going to give you a whole lot more room, but that's another topic.

    As for "getting it off your credit report," don't worry about it. When you tell the dealership "I sold that car," everything will be fine. They can work with their lenders to straighten it out.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • billy3554billy3554 Posts: 147
    You are correct in taking out the loan for as long as possible when the interest rate is low. It is like getting money for nothing. I do it on every car and I am in a position where I can pay off a loan in two years. Also, having a long history of paid a agreed loans is very helpful to a person's credit score.

    Really, only a person unfamiliar with finance concepts would suggest anyone taking out a loan for more than 2 years is purchasing a vehicle they can't afford. If that were the case, most of us would be driving a Yugo.

    One thing to consider regarding selling your Maxima to a private party or trading it on a new vehicle is you won't get the sales tax break if you sell to a private party, in most states. This can be considerable. If your car trades at $20,000 and the sales tax rate is 6% the sales tax break on the new purchase is $1,200. This means the private sale would need to be more than $21,200 to be more of an advantage than trading the vehicle.

    It is likely a Nissan dealer will offer more for the Maxima. Use Kelly Blue Book and NADA for the value of the Maxima which will give you a good idea of what the vehicle is worth. With a fairly clean vehicle I have always found a dealer willing to meet the KBB or NADA values. Any dealer who does not come close is, in my opinion, lowballing the trade value. At a minimum get up a leave, better to leave and go to a different dealer.

    Finally, at 11,000 miles a year the expected savings in gas would be more than $500 not $88 as you noted.
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