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Got a Quick Question for a Car Dealer?



  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,599
    If the price was close I would probably go with the manufacturer.

    My only point is the fact that there are some solid companies out there that sell the warranties.

    With an aftermarket warranty you can take your car anywhere instead of to a dealer. Helpful when you are not near a dealer.

    But, I never buy them anyway so it doesn't matter for me.
  • ken117ken117 Posts: 189
    Nothing more than a bet, exactly. And most likely a losing bet.

    As has been stated, people concerned about the reliability of their vehicle should buy a vehicle that has a stellar reliability record. With today's vehicles there are many to choose.

    An extended service contract probably costs an additional $40 or so on a monthly payment. People concerned about possible repairs after the OEM warranty expires should take that extra $40 each month and put it in an interest bearing account. If a repair is later needed, the cash is available. Of course, if there are no repairs the cash is still available for other things.

    Why anyone would choose to pay the dealer and service contract provider a huge profit for an overpriced extended service contract is a mystery.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    I feel the same, but there may be one or two cars where it could be a decent bet to make. Of course, if you buy a car that has a reputation for trouble, the insurance company offering the warranty is going to make the wager on the bet all the larger.


  • my hyundai isnt shifting into over drive i found 2 broken wires by the shifter and reconnected them drove it down the road it tried to shift then just reved up what else can be wrong im asking you cause the car originally came from your dealership
  • billy3554billy3554 Posts: 147
    Advising folks not to buy anything in the dealer's F&I office, The Box, is certainly not irresponsible. The simple fact is almost every product sold in The Box is overpriced, usually by at least 100 percent over cost and those products can almost always be purchased elsewhere for a much, much lower cost.

    Products sold in The Box which might have some value to some buyers may include GAP, dent coverage, and perhaps a maintenace contract. However, to be of value these products must be purchased at a fair price, which is rarely the price set by the dealer.

    An extended service contract may cost the dealer $900. The dealer may offer such that contract at $2,500 and negotiate down to $1,800. An unsuspecting buyer might think they got a great deal. However, a savy buyer could easily find the same contract from a dealer on line, after the sale, for perhaps $1,200. Now really, isn't a thirty-three percent profit for the dealer more than fair?

    Seems the only folks suggesting a buyer purchase an extended service contract at the dealer at the time the vehicle is purchased are the dealer and the dealer's top sales people who occupay the F&I office. In other words, the same people who make the huge profits from those F&I prodcut sales.

    Anyone can, as mentioned in your post, find a situation where someone benefited from an extended service contract. The F&I office is full of such examples. F&I folks use those examples to instill fear into the minds of the buyer as they know such fear is a powerful sellng tool.

    Extended service contracts are priced to allow the dealer and contract provider to make a healthy profit. Such profit will not be realized and the service contract provider will not remain in business unless the majority of service contracts ultimately provide no net cost benefit to the buyer.

    Smart car buyers research the cost of the vehicle they intend to purchase. They go into the dealership with a confident pricing goal. However, fewer buyers truly understand the profit margins and actual values of the products sold in The Box.

    A buyer might purchase a $30K vehicle at a cost which results in a profit of 2-3 percent to the dealer. Those same buyers might spend $3,000 for various products bought in The Box without realizing that $3,000 resulted in a 100 percent or more profit for the dealer.

    Truly, a buyer's best bet is to say no to everything in the F&I office. The word no is the only way to maintain the integrity of the vehicle purchase.
  • aca20031aca20031 Posts: 1
    I will be moving from Florida to Washington state in June to start a new job, and I had wanted to get preapproved for a loan so I could go to Washington state and purchase a car almost immediately - cabs and rentals are very expensive and I'm under 25 so rentals are even worse.

    I got approved through a bank for a 2.3% interest rate and was excited about it, but it wasn't until I called the loan agent back that someone told me: I can't apply for a loan with a Florida address and buy a car in Washington, because the car has to be registered in the state I purchase it and that has to match the loan information. Worse, she explained that I can't buy and register a car -at all- until I have a Washington license and an address there.

    Is there any way I can go about this and buy a car when I touch down in Washington state so I don't have to pay over $1000 for a rental car while I search for an apartment? Do I really need the Washington state license to register a car there? Is there anything I'm missing?

    Thanks for any help
  • houdini1houdini1 Kansas City areaPosts: 5,862
    edited April 2013
    I am no expert on the State of Washington, but that doesn't sound right to me. Maybe you got some bad information or something was lost in the translation. It should not be that difficult. You could try calling a dealer in the area you are moving to and ask them.

    Hopefully, someone who knows for sure will chime in.

    2013 LX 570 2010 LS 460 2002 Tacoma 4x4

  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,423
    edited April 2013
    You were given the right info.

    What you need to do is establish residence in Washington apply for new states license then you could register car in that state. not what your doing.. unless you want to travel back across country to register where you use to live. that would be crazy..

    What does seem funny to me is if you are approved for a loan it should have no bearing on what state your buying a car. your approved on a specific amount.
    Call bank or credit union back and tell them you will be buying in Washington state and living there at time of vehicle purchase..

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • Its true - Have to have a valid license you're registering the car in ... I sell here in MD ... and MD will allow you to register here and give you a temporary license number, but you need to convert it into a real license within a set period of time. Perhaps you should contact Washington's DMV to see if thats possible.

    The reason why the bank is saying that - Banks typically do not want to fund the loan if the vehicle is being titled or registered to an address/state where the buyer isn't living OR doesn't have any history at that address. It raises a red flag - and they will sometimes consider it a "straw" purchase and deny the loan that originally had been approved.

    Good luck - Contact the DMV there for help - Because you're better off paying $1000 for a rental, rather than buying in Florida and paying tax there and then re-registering in WA and perhaps having to pay an additional tax or fees!
  • blxblx Posts: 2
    Im looking at purchasing a new 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit. The car was broken into after it was produced before it was delivered and the factory repaired the vehicle. The dealer than bought the vehicle from a Chysler auction. The car has less than 10 miles. The wheels were stolen and some damage was done to the door. Most importantly the radio/information system was ripped out of the dash. Everything was repaired and the dealer supplied me with an itemized list of what was repaired. Total cost of factory repairs was between 4 and 5 thousand. It has full factory warranty on it. The estimated fair price of this vehicle now, is approx 46000, the dealer wants to sell it for 42000. I am in process of doing a check on the VIN to make sure its clean.
    My questions...
    Is this a fair discount for a vehicle damaged like this?
    What was the estimated discount the dealer bought this vehicle for?
    Is there anything else i need to be aware when buying a repaired new vehicle like this i need to be aware of?

    Thanks for any informed Input
  • I think you're in good shape - Just made a quick call to my GM friend @ Jeep to verify.

    First things first - You're at a good dealer - Not all dealers will disclose that its been in any sort of accident or incident. Check the carfax to see if the damage was reported - Thats going to make or break eventual resale value.

    Cars get damaged ALL THE TIME prior to sale. It just happens. Minor accidents, break-ins, customer spilled their coffee on the test drive, the lot guy went too fast around a corner, etc.

    It happens - its still considered a new vehicle and will still be covered under warranty.

    My only suggestion - You probably have another thousand to negotiate :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Keep in mind that this incident may show up later on CARFAX, so negotiate off the price as much as you can.


  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,599
    OK, chiming in...

    You'll need a Washington driver's license and a local address before a dealer cvan sell a car to you in WA. Also proof of insurance.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,168
    Craig, you must be able to buy a car if you are from out of state, right? Never heard of a state where you can't

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,666
    Sure.. but the OP is moving to Washington. How does he register the car?

    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,599
    Yep, that's the answer.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,626
    I retired around the same time as you and have heard things just aren't the same anymore...all agreed I left at the right time also! My kids all told me that with my love of the automobile, that is where I should look for a part time gig. I did and thanks to Craigslist, the rest is move I ever made! It's a great fun job though a bit slow right now...I hope to be doing it for many years to come!

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,626
    Funny you mention that...I just finally got my gold watch and get a monthly pension from Uncle Sam after 31 years of faithful service! All is good!!

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • avatexrs1avatexrs1 Posts: 60
    After spending the past week trying to locate the car I want, I've concluded that most dealers have concluded that responding in good faith to email requests is a waste of their time, and that asking potential buyers to provide their contact info to get an "e-price" is nothing more than a way to get potential customers' phone numbers.

    But what I don't understand is why dealers cannot keep their online inventory even remotely up to date. My company sells thousands of products worth millions of dollars each day and ships them from about 30 warehouses across the country, and we can tell you with 99% certainty how much of a particular product is in stock at any time in any location. Why can't car dealers do the same on their one lot? There are dealers in my area who show a car in stock on their website that they have told me they sold two weeks before! Wouldn't showing an accurate online inventory save the dealer's time in the long run?
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 790
    I'm trying to find my aunt a good deal on a new car lease before the lease on her Infiniti expires in about two more weeks. I've been experiencing some of the same frustrations as you.

    What I find most frustrating is that I ask for specific information- do you still have the Black w/ Parchment 2013 Acura TSX 'base' 4-door available that I saw on your website? If so, I'd be interested in discussing the current lease and financing deals you have to offer on it.

    In return, if I get a response within 24-48 hours, it's along the lines of "tell me a little more about what you're looking for (colors, options, etc.) and I'm certain we can find the car that fits you perfectly!"

    It's a bit frustrating when they ask you for information that you provided in your original email! But the most surprising thing is how many either don't respond or don't respond for several business days???

    While I don't appreciate it as a customer, I can actually understand the thought process behind trying to get you on the phone or (preferably) in the showroom. They have a much better chance to 'sell' you on the phone or face to face than in an email. But that's the same reason I don't provide my number to them....
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