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Got a Quick Question for a Car Dealer?



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    When I bought a Regal back in '97 it was from a family owned store. I purchased the car from the youngest salesman who was 58 and found out the oldest was 76. Talk about surprised.
  • avatexrs1avatexrs1 Posts: 60
    edited June 2013
    At least one dealer gets the Internet and e-quotes.

    I just closed on a 2013 Acura ILX Premium, polished metallic (grey) with black leather interior. The dealer provided a great price initially in response to the "e-price" link on their website, responded immediately by email in response to a request for an OTD quote, and negotiated the entire transaction in about three phone calls. I never actually went into the dealer, having test driven the model when I had as a service loaner and someone else going to the dealer to pick up the vehicle. Used FedEx to sign the papers and deliver the purchase price via cashier's check.

    The deal:
    $24,988 Sales price
    1,620 Sales tax
    149 Dealer doc fee
    143 Other taxes/title
    $26,900 Total OTD

    Comparisons (without taxes and fees):
    $28,790 Edmunds TMV
    $28,137 TrueCar
    $26,600 CarsDirect

    I paid less than what I was quoted for a base model a month ago. With the 2014s now on the lot, there are great deals on the 2013s.

    This is the future for a lot of buyers: using technology to avoid the hassles of the four square, the 30+ minutes of sitting there waiting for the sales guy to "talk" to the sales manager, etc. that many dealers like to use when you're there in person.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    Gentlemen: A member posted this "interesting" question in our ANSWERS department and I was wondering if you'd be kind enough to think about it and give an opinion, so that I could convey this back to them---they seem to be in a bit of a jam. Here's the question as posted:

    "Bought a car approximately 30 days ago. The dealer called and stated that the original contract had gotten destroyed in transit to the bank by UPS. They are now wanting us to resign the contract which I do not feel comfortable with. Since there's apparently no contract can this sale be null and void? At this point with all the hassle I would just like to give the car back and be given my down payment back, without it going on my credit history as a REPO. I've since investigated the dealer which has had many issues. They have a score of a D+ with the BBB. Am I obligated to resign this contract?"


  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,610
    First of all, I have to wonder why it took so long for them to find this out?

    To me, it looks like the buyer is trying to use this mishap as a reason to back out of the contract they agreed to.

    I'm not certain of all of the legal aspects but it isn't that unusual for a contract to need to be re-signed.

    The buyer had use of a new car for a month and now they see an opportunity to back out?? They really should see an attorney.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,150
    sooo... buyer wants to return the car because there is no contract. But the buyer wants the down payment that is shown on this same missing contract returned. Just a tad of a double standard here. If I was the dealer, and the down payment was significant enough, I'd gladly let the buyer back out and keep the down payment. Null and void, right? That works both ways!

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    What is the dealer to do with a used vehicle that was once new. Resigning a contract with the same terms isn't a reason to unwind a deal. Looks like this buyer is looking hard at a way out of the deal. If the dealer has a D+ rating the buyer may have figured that his deal wasn't such a good one to begin with.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    thanks for those replies. This is an odd one, isn't it? Makes me wonder what the WHOLE story is, on both ends.

    I think I'm going to tell them to talk to an attorney if unwinding the deal is what they really want.

    The contract can't be "lost" to the computers as well, or else they couldn't ask for it to be re-signed.

    Are contracts actually hand-delivered in paper anymore to banks?


  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,610
    Yes, that's the best advice.

    Something doesn't sound right here and to me, it look like the buyer is grasping at straws in an attempt to weasel out of the deal.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,626
    Think we need to hear both sides before we crucify the buyer, which I can see has already started. A shame that the 1st thing that salesmen say is that the buyer is fishy but the dealer is above reproach. Old stereotypes live on no matter how each side says things have changed. A bit disappointed here!

    The Disappointed Sandman :( :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,610
    Disappointed again?

    I think I said "something" sounds not right here.

    Only a sloppy store would not react to not being funded on a deal until after 30 days.

    I don't think I "crucified" anyone or say that dealer was "above reproach"

    After a lifetime in retail management I will admit to becoming cynical at times after having seen every trick in the book played.

    I learned that to some, the value of a handshake means nothing. Not the way I was brought up.

    Had you spent almost 14 years in the car business I don't think you would be feeling so disappointed.
  • houdini1houdini1 Kansas City areaPosts: 5,863
    I agree with your thoughts 100% isell.

    2013 LX 570 2010 LS 460 2002 Tacoma 4x4

  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    edited June 2013
    Jipster would have been fine to deal with.

    I wouldn't have minded having him as a customer.

    Thanks. I think you would have put me on your Xmas card list. ;)

    I would have bought my 2012 Civic from Isell, if he lived in the Louisville area.

    I've always been friendly and respectful to my salesman. The majority of which have been fairly nice guys. If a deal can't be made, no hard feelings.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,150
    A shame that the 1st thing that salesmen say is that the buyer is fishy

    My comments were against the buyer, as well, and I'm not a salesman. The buyer did not express any reason for wanting to back out other than simply wanting to just because they were asked to come sign the same damned contract they already agreed to and signed. If the buyer left important details out of the story, it is their own damned fault. My conclusion was drawn from the information provided by the buyer, nothing more, nothing less. If it walks like a duck....

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • verdugoverdugo Posts: 1,987
    We're def. not getting the entire story.

    Everytime I've bought a car, I got a copy of the contract. If the dealership wants him to sign a new contract, just make sure all the numbers match his copy of the original contract.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,610
    I just had to resign a contract on the 2013 CRV we just bought.

    My F&I guy transposed a number and Honda kicked it back over two cents!

    Not that uncommon but this was caught in four days, not a MONTH!
  • tommister2tommister2 Mechanicsville, VAPosts: 131
    My most recent two purchases (May 2012 and May 2013) have had the contracts revised but I didn't have to re-sign. One one the payment date changed - I think the first payment was actually made due a week or so later. The other had different late payment information. Instead of a payment being late after 7 days the bank changed it to 10. Neither change affected the numbers so I guess that's why they just let me know. For each of them I received a letter from the finance company in 7 - 10 days.

    In 1998 I leased a GMC Yukon. The contract had 15k miles per year but GMAC said it should have been 12k. They did want me to sign a new contract for that but I refused. Somehow the dealer and GMAC worked it out. I never got the details and I sold it before the lease was up...
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,174
    still not as bad as my Acura, where it took 2 weeks to figure out they wrote the contract on a totally different car than the one they gave me.

    sadder, I was the one that finally figured it out. They somehow still thought I just got the wrong key fob, which made no logical sense at all.

    would have been funny if they tried to sell "my" car before i went to swap it out!

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,708
    I had to re-sign a lease contract on an Accord in the '90s...

    The correct money factor was supposed to be .00236 and they used .00239... AHFC kicked it back...

    Saved me about $1/month!!

    Most stories I hear about new buyer's not wanting to re-sign contracts are purely buyer's remorse.. and, thinking that this might be a way out...
    Others just don't like car dealer's, and like to think they have the upper hand (for once)...

    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Posts: 79
    edited September 2013
    I understand that a dealer is in business to make money and, though it would be nice, I'm not going to drive a car off their lot (likely) without them making a fair bit of money off of me. I'm okay with this. What I don't want to be is the fool who they make A LOT of money off of. That's where I hope you can help me.

    I'm looking at a 4 owner 2002 Corolla LE with 100k miles with a sticker price of $6,995. No side front airbags and no ABS, really clean but definitely not new (few scrapes, wheels are scraped). There are a few other 02's w similar specs that are priced at other dealers for right about the same amount, so, in that sense, it seems to be a fair price. However, after looking at trade in value for that car, I see that the MOST the dealer would have paid (and I'm sure they didn't pay for a "clean" trade-in) would have been $3,800. In addition, KBB, Edmunds, NADA, and Black Book all say that this vehicle should retail, in outstanding condition, for about $6,100.

    So, of course, my question is what would a fair price be for this vehicle?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    edited September 2013
    Sounds like $5K would be more than generous. You should use the designation of "average" or perhaps "good", to price the car---certainly not excellent or outstanding.


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