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Mazda Tribute Start Stall Idle Problems

i having trouble with my mazda this morning i was almost out of gas but it stall and when i went to start it back it would only click it wouldn't do anything else. got any suggestion what could be wrong with it. please let me know asap. thanks
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Comments

  • Been reading alot about idle problems with cold starts and the possible causes from bad IACV's to leaking intake gaskets. Never had problems with my Tribute until a few months ago when starting it cold, the engine started to lope like it was starved for gas. Gave it gas by keeping foot down on the pedal a bit to keep the idle up and once the vehicle warmed up, everything was fine. I have never had a check engine light come on nor had any warning about a part failing, etc. I have since taken the IACV off and cleaned the inside but it is very difficut if not impossible to clean the inside of the solenoid housing as only the piston comes through the opening. The results were only slightly better but still have the problem. The vehicle has approximately 80,000 miles on it and normally runs just fine except for this issue on cold starts. Any suggestions or help anyone could offer would be appreciated.
  • Hi, after I replaced the Spark Plug and PCV valve on my 2001 Mazda Tribute V6 the idle became rough as if it is going to die. I replaced the old spark plugs with Bosch Platinum +4 and a PCV valve I purchaced from Auto Zone. Should I not be using this kind of spark plug? Or is their anything that needs adjustment? Please advice. I will greatly appreciate your suggestions and advice. Thanks.
  • I have a 2001 V6 Tribute with 180,000 miles. I have been chasing this problem since last fall. I have changed the IACV, spark plugs, fuel filter, have tried several different fuel system cleaners and have searched for vacuum leaks. I have not found any solution. Have you had any luck lately?
  • Hi,

    I'm having the exact same problem so I was wondering if you found a solution yet. My dealer changed the battery, alternator, and fuel pump and nothing has solved it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • I have not found a solution yet. I have found another person local to me having the same problem with a Ford Escape.
  • sgersger Posts: 2
    HI just wondering if anyone had this problem, tribute 06 2 wd 2.3l after a cold start i press on the gas pedal and ...nothing. after 30 secs everyting fine

    thxs
  • I had the same issue; car is just under 100k miles and had this issue for about 4 months. Mechanic found that the intake manifold gasket was leaking. Replaced upper and lower intake gaskets and problem nwas fixed. Cost was about $50 in parts and $180 in labor.
  • sgersger Posts: 2
    thank you ! for the info. gerry :)
  • Thanks for the information. I replaced my upper and lower intake manifold gaskets a week ago and have not had any idle problems since. The lower gaskets were really bad and most likely 3 out of the six were leaking.
  • Just an FYI;
    Had a problem over a year ago on my 02 Tribute (V6 ES) and paid the diag fee and another $180.00 or so to replace the idle control valve. Part was + $40.00 at the dealer versus AutoZone. The problem comes back now an then and the idle can float to 1500 or more, sometimes not coming down. I have a month or more left on the 1 year warranty for the work they did and do not wish to pay a 2nd diag fee since the first did not solve the problem. We'll see how it all works out. I'm worried if the idle creeps up to 1000 or 1200 and my wife or kids are driving, they may put it in gear ... ouch !!
  • had the spark plugs checked, the coils checked and boots replaced and the mechanic told me it might be the computer sensor is not being read.. take it to the dealer for a diagnostic. At the dealer, someone mentioned it could be the catalytic converter needs to be changed. He just drove it and parked it in the lot. I'm waiting on the diagnostic test tomorrow, however, initially the mechanic that looked at it thought I needed the engine coils replaced. The first mechanic replaced the coils and the engine still didn't work. So, I'll see how the diagnostic report reads tomorrow. Just wondering if anyone has a similar problem. It is a 2001 Mazda Tribute 4wd which I don't use 4wd.
  • Per your title no acceleration / shaking;

    I had a very similar issue with a Jeep about 3-4 years ago.. turned out the cat was shot and plugged up. It finally blew the stuff out and since then, the exhaust sounded different. Eventually I had the system re-done but prior, the thing almost wouldn't run and had a severe loss of power until the bb's burned or blew out. This could be a simple and inexpensive fix if you end up with the same diagnosis.
  • So would the simple fix be to just change the two cats they say are blown.
  • bachmanbachman Posts: 31
    The two ways I look at this kind of thing are;

    a) if it's me doing the guess work by trial and error, I start with the simpler and less expensive things and work up from there. Take the cats off and eliminate that issue yourself. You can temp run the thing with just a muffler and see if the engine runs ok as a short term test. Then you'll know if there are other factors or not.

    b) where ever possible, I trust a shop to do the diagnosis for me. They have specific equip to check things. This way they are accountable to the fix and warranty as well as a mis diagnosis that replaces the wrong items that I would not feel the need to pay for.

    Sorry if it sounds like I'm dodging your question but a shop doing a few basic checks related to the symptoms you describe should be fairly cut and dry. I'd think 2 cats and the system back (mufflers tailpipes) and labor is going to cost upwards of $400.00. Be sure you give the shop as much info about the way the vehicle started acting up and when.... often the right choice of words and some basic patterns can really give them a lot more to go on. Post back what you end up with when all is said and done !
  • racenutracenut Posts: 10
    when my tribute first starts in morning it will race to 2800 rpm and slowly creep down to a normal high idle and then on to normal idle. If I just turn the key on and wait about ten seconds it wil run up to 2200 rpm still a might high. I can`t find the problem. No Codes are shown or stored.
  • bachmanbachman Posts: 31
    I wish I knew something more about what to tell you ... yours sounds similar too my problem yet undiagnosed but thought to be the idle control valve that was replaced a year ago. I have a re-do appt in a few weeks and will hope to post what the fix is but I will need to give it the test of time first since it was almost always intermittent.
  • deepsky1deepsky1 Posts: 3
    2001 Tribute DX 4 cyl, 5speed manual, 122,000 miles. If I turn off/on the motor too many times in a given time period, it stalls at idle. Letting it sit awhile helps sometimes. Fuel filter replaced no luck. Any suggestion greatly appreciated.
  • bachmanbachman Posts: 31
    I'm following up because your message tagged mine. Now that my problem is solved (it was not the idle control valve as they thought, I paid for parts/labor and the diagnosis fee). It was an electrical connection they had to trace down. It was causing erractic idle speed and usually too high of rpm's. If I were more assertive and the time frame wasn't so long, I'd have refused to pay the second service fees since it was about the same as the first cost and they ahd not fixed the problem.

    Have your dealer do the code check and follow that path down to the fix with the understanding ahead of time that you will hold them to it. It will be a total of the diagnosis fee and the parts/labor. If they dont' get it right the first time, they will have to use your fees paid as credit toward the new fix ... should it go beyond the previous price you already paid. Mine was a wash ...around 180 to 200 $$.
    Then go out and test it as much as you can to be sure they solved it. My problem was so intermittent that it was hard to know if / when it was fixed.
  • Hi brayofsunshine1@yahoo.com. I recently bought a 2001 Mazda Tribute with a 145,000mi that acts up only when it's cold, and then after about 5 to 10 mins the vehicle runs perfectly fine. I've read similar stories of people claiming to have a loping idle on cold starts, and like most owners, I've replaced, sparks plugs, air filter, and used injector cleaners with no positive outcome. Could anyone whose had a similar experience help me eliminate this problem that has no engine light warning. Thank you.
  • I had the same problem with my 2001 Tribute. My solution was replacing the lower intake manifold gaskets. After doing so my idle problem stopped.
  • Holy crap! I am having the same exact problems, and have been for the past 3 weeks, and i just bought it on 9/30. Today the dealer who sold it to me told me he had a Mazda expert mechanic look at it and this was the problem. So now i have to wait until tomorrow's cold start to see if this was the problem. I'm pretty sure it is, because i am experiencing the 100% exact problem.
  • my stalling problem occurs only on hot days like 85+ degrees; running about town turning the engine off. Go in a store then come out and start the engine. Repeat this about 5 or 6 times within one hour. Then I have to do the gas, clutch, brake shuffle, to keep the revs at 900 rpm or else it stalls instantly. Taking it to the dealers tomorrow.
  • jarkjark Posts: 1
    my stalling problem is a bit different. My emissions light went off and now, my car stalls after use. It will run fine most of the time, then when I park it for a bit and come back out, it shakes, makes a grumbling noise and then shuts off. Could not start it until I let it rest for a good 45 minutes with the hood up. Mechanic looked at it, and the error code for a o2 sensor went off. That was replaced and thought everything was good until today, the car did not completely stall, the engine was sluggish and sounded like it was about to stall. I lost the power brakes and steering so it was really scary. Luckily i was just in the parking lot so I was able to stop safely. I let the car run for a bit, and the rough idle went away. Once that cleared up, everything was back to normal again. Any ideas what this is. I'm assuming once the stalling issue is fixed, the loss in brakes and steering will also be resolved because they seem to be related to each other.
  • I have an 02 and a 03 mazda tribute, they are both having a puzzling starting problem. Sometimes they start right up, but at other times I have to crank and crank and then they will start like nothing is wrong. It doesn't matter hot or cold, there is no pattern. I have replaced fuel pumps, filters, air idle control valves, batteries and have checked engine grounds. HELP
  • tnanningatnanninga Posts: 10
    I have a 2006 I-4 cyl, AUTO, 2WD, 74k miles. Originally I thought the tranny was slipping... But it turns out the engine is stalling. The dealer could not reproduce the problems, So I took him for a ride, during which the vehicle shuttered and shook several times. Within seconds he diagnosed it as Fuel Pump. Because I do not trust the dealer, I declined to let them repair the truck, yet stuck with $110 Diag Fee. I replaced the Fuel Pump, and after 15 minutes of warming the car continues to shutter and shake.
    After a couple minutes to warm, the car shutters beyond 2000 RPMs. I refuse to pay of another Diag fee. They missed it the first time, now we try again.
  • bachmanbachman Posts: 31
    Just taking a poke at it but

    1) could it be an air flow and or fuel mixture issue ?

    Secondly, I am awestruck by dealers that hit us with the $100 diag fee then won't stand behind it. I'd rather they do the work and replace the part after I'm in for the $100. Then, how can they make you pay for the diag and the fix when the fix isn't it..?
    Tell them they are going to earn that $100 this time around and you'll know when they are done because you car is fixed and under warranty for a while to boot.
    *Simplify your point; One diagnosis fee = one correct diagnosis period.
    They'd likely have to re-do another diag but you cannot owe them for two fees when they boogered it up the first time if the fuel pump they put on is not the fix.

    The whole idea of the fee is paying for the elaborate computers they have that are nearly fool proof and save them hours of time in actual diagnosis cost/labor. They are double dipping in the profit center most of the time. Book time is $80 or more per hour nowadays and we are paying $100 for a 2 minute hook up to the computer. That's $50 per minute and lawyers don't make that !!

    I always think about how things like that can go wrong and I try to rehearse what I'll say to counter them .... and how I"ll say it. It pays to be nice and friendly but hold your ground at the same time. I have them listen to me say it out loud and restate it back to me that I'll pay the diag fee and the fix if it's the solution. I'm sure there are times when it can be a domino effect or one problem linked to another gizmo but that would be an exception and I believe I'd understand the process and if I felt them credible, I'd pay the extra w/o fuss. For the most part just get them to agree to your terms or go elsewhere before the fees add up and the thing still pukes and fogs. Good luck!
  • pdmclaypdmclay Posts: 4
    My 2008 Mazda Tribute has the same issue. It always starts. However, sometimes it takes an extended time to start. Only 46,000 miles. Replaced fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, and use quality fuel. Let me know if you run into anything new.

    Clay
  • gwileygwiley Posts: 1
    Hope u can help. good morning hope you still read posts. Im having the same problem, did u get the problem resolved ? any info is helpfull. Thanks gary wiley wilmington de
  • Hi

    We have a 2001 Mazda Tribute - occassionally it will not start - the motor turns over, battery is good - but it does not catch.

    If we leave it for a couple of minutes, then turn the key again , it will start. We had the fuel filter replaced a few months ago and after that particular operation, the issue seemed to go away - unfortunately to return now. Has anyone seen this
    before ? , any idea of what the problem could be ?

    Our mechanic said last time that they saw no events
    in the cars engine computer - in fact for something
    there to register the 'check engine light' would have to come on - in this case - the 'check engine light' does not come on - so we have no idea as to the issue.

    The car is leaking a little oil but outwith that there is no
    other standing issue here.

    Any thoughts appreciated .... car has 120k. Oil changed regularly every 5k. miles.
  • 1. If the key shaped lamp on the dash is flashing wile cranking, you have an anti theft problem,
    2. The Idle Air Control valve can stick closed intermittently - if you open the throttle a bit while cranking and it starts, change it.
    3. If the fuel pump check valve does not hold pressure with the key off it can cause extended crank before starting. Cycle the key on and off before starting (primes fuel system). If it starts with this method, get the fuel holding pressure checked.

    4. Get a new mechanic.
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