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Mazda Tribute Start Stall Idle Problems

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Comments

  • Thank you very much .... I was thinking of changing the spark plugs aswell here as
    they have not been changed in a very long time .... probably won't do any harm together with the other items you mention here. I had to laugh at point 4. - probably
    should consider it :) cheers ....
  • No problems so far - thanks again ... !!
  • 110,000 miles - runs fine when cold - after engine warm car will stall out (manual transmision) when clutch depressed - doesn't happen under about 1500 rpms - can someone give me an idea of what is wrong.
  • 2005 Mazda Tribute, starts good in the morning, after driving the car will not start. The key turns over but absolutely nothing happens. All guages and radio etc work but will not start. If you let it sit it will then start. I have had the battery checked and it is not the issue, the starter tested okay...not sure where to go with this , any ideas ?
  • I have been driving my Mazda tribute for the last several moths with no problems. This morning I got in it to drive it and it would not start. The engine turns over normally and the battery is strong. There is just no ignition. I have checked all the fuses I can and I even disconnected the computer. No luck. Does anyone know something I can try?
  • may be its an issue of lack of gas..
  • triciam808triciam808 Posts: 2
    edited January 2011
    I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute V6 with almost 80,000 miles on it. It will not start after I have driven a long distance and keep starting & stopping my car. It will turn over but then it just dies. If I let it cool down for more than an hour it usually will start. Just lately it has not been starting even in the morning, its been taking like 2 or 3 times to try and start it. Please help!! I do not know what is wrong!
  • What you wrote about your car sound exactly like the problem with my car!! Did you get an answer from the dealership what is wrong? Thank you for responding.
  • dlovettdlovett Posts: 2
    My wife bought this car 2nd hand with 270,000 Kms on the speedo. For a while everything went well, but after about 2 months the motor would snuff and die. The only way I could get it to the mechanic was to open the throttle wide (High Revs) and ride the brake at the same time and prayed that the traffic light were going to be kind to me.

    Anyway our mechanic found that a hose which feeds from somewhere??? was collasping in itself (possibly some vacuum hose) and he said the hose was not the Mazda original. So he replaced it with a more stronger hose and that seemed to have fixed that problem.

    After about a week later, the motor would start good but some days the motor would misfire and you could see the tacho needle jumping up and down about 300 rpm. On those days the motor had no power and it was astruggle to keep it going.

    On other days the motor would not miss a beat and performed well all day. But the very next day it went back to the misfire.

    So I took it back to the mechanic who then changed the lft front coil pack and this seemed to fix the problem.

    After about another week the misfire returned.

    The machanic suggested we change all of the spark plugs to the more expensive ones with a longer life which meant the manifold had to come off (Just to change the plugs) DOH.

    Anyway after a $750.00 AUD bill the car is still misfiring on some days and some days it has lots of grunt.

    I talked to a Mazda mechanic and he said that he chased his tail for 2 years with no luck and he just gave up. He reckons that it is design fault in the motor from new!!!!!

    So if anybody out in inernet land can help well I am listening Thanks from Dennis in Australia.
  • My 2001 Tribute (which I've had since it rolled off the lot) and now has 153K miles (240K km). I have had all the service done on time at the dealership. But I had the same issue starting mid-2010 and got it fixed about 2 months ago. I found that the symptoms dimished after I had been driving for about 15-20 minutes, so I thought my plugs were getting bad and needed a warmer engine to work better (even though Mazda installs plugs rated for 90K miles / 145K km, and I only used 2/3 of their life). I initially tried having the fuel system cleaned. That seemed to work for about a week, but I still had issues of rough idling and occassional stalling at red lights.

    The dealership ran a diagnostic and told me that I had a crack in my head gasket, which was causing leaks of air into the system (which was worse when the engine was cold). Also, my idle speed sensor (which regulates the fuel/air mixture at different engine temps and RPMs) needed replacing. I hated to spend the money to get everything fixed, but my car runs like a charm now!

    And since replacing the plugs involved taking the engine apart (which cost about $350US) the dealership replaced them at only the cost of the plugs while they had the head off to replace the gasket.

    I hate that you already had the plugs replaced, but I would recommend having your mechanic look at your gasket and idle speed sensor. If that's the problem, hopefully your mechanic will realize his oversight and work with you on the repair bill (since he already had the engine apart and should have seen the condition of the gasket).
  • deepsky1deepsky1 Posts: 3
    "my car runs like a charm now!" WOW finally some good news.
  • dlovettdlovett Posts: 2
    edited March 2011
    Saxybacon, Many thanks for the time you spent putting together your very informative message. I have printed it out and I will certainly talk to the mechanics about it. I cannot understand why they didn't see the problems(if they were there) when the manifold was off. They have told me already that I am chasing my tail and I agreed due to the ongoing costs. We are pensioners and the wife is none too pleased that after the $750.00 she spent was really a waste of money. She is so dissalousioned about it, that she wants to trade it in and buy something else but I say to her that is also a very expensive exercise. Once again thanks for your support in this mind numbing debacle. Den
  • cf21cf21 Posts: 2
    I chased the same probllem and have the solution. My Tribute has 153,000 miles. 1. Replace all the intake manifold gaskets. Comes in a kit. Don't cheat. You need to replace the UPPER and LOWER intake runner gaskets and throttle body gasket. Grease the o-rints so they slide into place when tightening (won't bind and pinch) 2. I then replaced the plugs and coils while I was in there. 3. Also replaced the idle air control valve. I got my parts at Rockauto.com and Advance Auto. 4. I got MAF cleaner and spray cleaned the MAF sensor. Runs like a champ.
  • cf21cf21 Posts: 2
    I replaced ALL the intake manifold gaskets. Especially the UPPER and LOWER intake runnner gaskets. Comes in a kit. I installed new coils from Rockauto.com, new plugs, new idle air control valve and cleaned the MAF. I also replaced some worn vacuum hoses. The key culprit were the gaskets. I used my OBD II reader. When the OBD II reader tell you Lean mixture on both banks, the gaskets are the culprits. My car runs like new. Idles great and runs smoothe.
  • tootfoottootfoot Posts: 1
    I have a very similar problem with my 2001 Tribute (4 cyl, manual, 86k miles). Very intermittent, and it never happens when the mechanic is open! Mine used to do it only on hot days, but in the last 6 months it has done it on cooler days too. About 750 rpm seems to be my stalling point (which is also my idling point when it's running normally). Every time it stalls it starts right back up, and seems to be running fine.

    Did you get any resolution from your dealer?
  • jnittjnitt Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with about 107k miles. The last time I got an oil change I was told that I need to have a transmission flush. I checked the fluid and it is a brownish color with no flakes. The car has been running perfectly fine, yesterday coming home it has started to feel like it will stall when I am idling, stopped at a light or something, and then once I go its fine. It does feel a little sluggish at first when excelerating. Could this be related to the transmission? I'm also not sure about getting the trans flush. I've read some things that don't suggest it.
  • Saxybacon, what was the cost of all the repairs? I am thinking of buying one used, but want to have the cost of repairs for negotiation purposes... thanks. Tiphanie
  • I recently changed the valve cover gasket and afterwards the car (which was running fine before that) will not go, it starts fine and idles good, but once I put it into drive and start to go, it looses power, the faster I try to go the worse it gets. I've had so many things checked, spark plugs have been replace, fuel filter replace, hoses checked, catalytic converter checked, MAF sensor checked, etc.... No one seems to know what the problem could be. Any ideas?
  • I had that problem last year. I should've gotten the transmission flush because in the end I had to replace the whole transmission in the end. I have the 2001 Mazda tribute with 80K miles at the time. Now this year my engine and battery had to be replaced a month ago. Today it wouldn't start at all and not even sure what to check at this point :(. Bottom line nip it in the bud and get your transmission looked at now.
  • Why did you change your valve gasket? I guess an oil leak.

    The next time you start it check to see that exhaust fumes are actually coming out the tail pipe so that you don't blow your EGR valve..........My story is that my son asked me to change his transmission fluid in a 2001 escape Saturday. I released about a Qrt of the trans. fluid and replaced it with Lucas oil which should provide much viscosity to the other 10 qrts or so left. I took it for a drive around the block and decided to take it on the freeway. The Escape kept losing power until I heard a hissing sound-air being sucked into engine from a partially destroyed EGR valve. I don't know which catalytic converter is gone but fixing to order the rear one which costs around $150 with shipping. If I need to do the other two, I guess I'll be going to some junk yard to look for them instead of buying them new.

    This escape was being driven by my son at around 45mph so he knew it wasn't working properly, but he did not take it on the Interstate and experience the Power loss as you stepped on the gas. A plugged catalytic converter can cause what you are describing, and I would have someone get in it and step on the gas while you check the air pressure coming out the exhaust. You may want to check your good car first to get an idea of what to expect. don't spend too much time breathing in the CO gas though-good luck!
  • I did change the valve cover gasket because there was for sure an oil leak, the smoke from it was coming up by the valve cover so I assumed that was the problem, should have checked the oil filter first, turns out that's where the oil leak was coming from. The filter was loose and the oil was coming out from that, didn't realize it until I changed the valve cover gaske(which didn't need changing I found after taking the cover off, oh well there's a new one on there now). After sitting for 7 months I did get someone to check the catalytic converter and sure enough that was the problem (the one at the back). Been driving it for 2 weeks now and it runs like a champ, until yesterday that is, now it's making a ticking sound as if it's out of oil. Checked the oil and it is low which I don't understand since I changed the oil when I changed the filter, I put some oil in but the ticking is still there, and get's louder at times, only when idling though. Now, what could this be. There's no sign of an oil leak now, so where's my oil going and what could be making that ticking sound? Any ideas?
  • If you had a leaking intake manifold gasket before, your car's computer probably adjusted to the extra air it was sucking in by adding more fuel (if it was leaking oil, it was leaking air too). Now that you've sealed the leak, it's not getting all of that air that it used to, and your computer still thinks it needs all that extra fuel. My suggestion would be to clear out the computer. You can do this by disconnecting the battery terminals from their cables, wait 30 minutes, then connect them again. The computer will relearn the fuel trims. If this doesn't fix it, you've probably got a fuel starvation problem, which could mean fuel filter or fuel pump is bad. Hope this helps!
  • yuchyuch Posts: 1
    Did you find an answer to your problem? I am having this same problem but it only occurs in cold (32 or below weather). Any help is appreciated!
  • Yes, the problem was the rear catalytic converter. Good luck with yours.
  • I had this problem last week and it is resolved after cleaning the carbon built-up in the Idle air control valve.
    Before the valve had carbon deposit around the spring and was not moving well. Soaked with cleaner for 5 minutes and removed with plastic knife.

    After disconnecting the battery and connecting again the check Engine light gone. check it before going for expensive alternatives.
    Thanks
  • Just acquired a 2002 Mazda Tribute ES V6 with 103k miles. Runs great it seems. Only issue is that it occasionally will cut off or stall when put in reverse. Starts right back up with no problem. Check Engine light is not on. No oil leaks. No sucking noises. Can't find any bad hoses.

    I've skimmed the postings on this and other sites. Seems it might be

    "Idle Air Control Valve" (??) - needs replaced or cleaned - "on top of engine" (?) - where is it exactly? I can replace or clean myself if I knew where it was.

    Ignition Switch - might be bad - where is this? in steering column? how difficult to replace?

    Fuel Filter?

    Any other ideas? without an OBD engine code (yet) I don't know how to pin point the problem, but would like to attempt to fix it with by replacing parts that are simple.
    Any thoughts appreciated.
  • I also have an 08 Mazda Tribute with the same the exact same issues. It will turn over but not start. Then in a few minutes it starts like nothing ever happened and runs normally. My daughter drives this car and is an out of town college student, so I need some help. Did you ever find a solution?
  • I'm having the same issue with my 01 V6. It was pretty bad a couple of weeks ago. Then, I replaced the old battery and it improved. It's been erratic for a while before replacing the battery, but seemed to get worse suddenly and has now improved back to an erratic, slightly noticeable, varyingly high idle. I'm concerned because this is our family car for my wife and child. I haven't had it professionally looked at and I'm not much of a mechanic myself. Please let me know if you get to the bottom of it. Thanks
  • Well, I just reviewed some of my posting history to remind myself what I've been through over the years. I had the idle control valve replaced and it turned out that was not the issue. However, it was intermittent enough that time went by and I didn't feel I had as strong a case to pitch a fit about the $200 or so I paid for the computer to tell them to replace parts and related labor not needed ... or incorrect. Turned out to be a wire or connection problem and as intermittent goes,, that did make more sense to me. Not sure what you'll be up for. If you visit the dealer ask them to check for TSB's related to a connection issue/idle problems and tell them you are fine with the diagnosis fee as long as it is the fix. I'm an example of a customer who went that route and paid for it and parts-labor even though it was NOT the fix as per idel control valve. -- Hell, if they just want to start replacing parts to see what fixes it, anybody can do that !! :)

    One cheap thing I did that was an overnight improvement - taking it to WalMart for an injector cleaning. My symptom was surging. As I'd drive, I could feel a pulse and a drop of power ever so slightly. Thinking it was either bad gas or injectors, the dealers want $180 - $200 for the injector service and WM does a similar thing albeit a different method. It cost $20 about 2 years ago and it may be a little more these days. Instead of tearing into the parts and getting high class expensive equip hooked up, they do a drip feed just like an IV in the hospital. The chemical flows through the injectors just fine though and they add a can of fuel treatment injector cleaner to the tank of gas and send you on your way. It was an overnight success in my case and for $20 you can't pass it up on the chance that it fixes a problem or just as a preventative maint item. Good luck !
  • Someone advised me here as well as a store manager at Advanced Auto to spray out the idle control valve with throttle cleaner. I sprayed really good, put it back on the car and at dead cold it idled at 1000 RPM! Saved many $$. My Tribute is 10 years old and apparently it just needed a little cleanout job.
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