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Mazda Tribute Start Stall Idle Problems

24

Comments

  • Holy crap! I am having the same exact problems, and have been for the past 3 weeks, and i just bought it on 9/30. Today the dealer who sold it to me told me he had a Mazda expert mechanic look at it and this was the problem. So now i have to wait until tomorrow's cold start to see if this was the problem. I'm pretty sure it is, because i am experiencing the 100% exact problem.
  • my stalling problem occurs only on hot days like 85+ degrees; running about town turning the engine off. Go in a store then come out and start the engine. Repeat this about 5 or 6 times within one hour. Then I have to do the gas, clutch, brake shuffle, to keep the revs at 900 rpm or else it stalls instantly. Taking it to the dealers tomorrow.
  • jarkjark Posts: 1
    my stalling problem is a bit different. My emissions light went off and now, my car stalls after use. It will run fine most of the time, then when I park it for a bit and come back out, it shakes, makes a grumbling noise and then shuts off. Could not start it until I let it rest for a good 45 minutes with the hood up. Mechanic looked at it, and the error code for a o2 sensor went off. That was replaced and thought everything was good until today, the car did not completely stall, the engine was sluggish and sounded like it was about to stall. I lost the power brakes and steering so it was really scary. Luckily i was just in the parking lot so I was able to stop safely. I let the car run for a bit, and the rough idle went away. Once that cleared up, everything was back to normal again. Any ideas what this is. I'm assuming once the stalling issue is fixed, the loss in brakes and steering will also be resolved because they seem to be related to each other.
  • I have an 02 and a 03 mazda tribute, they are both having a puzzling starting problem. Sometimes they start right up, but at other times I have to crank and crank and then they will start like nothing is wrong. It doesn't matter hot or cold, there is no pattern. I have replaced fuel pumps, filters, air idle control valves, batteries and have checked engine grounds. HELP
  • tnanningatnanninga Posts: 10
    I have a 2006 I-4 cyl, AUTO, 2WD, 74k miles. Originally I thought the tranny was slipping... But it turns out the engine is stalling. The dealer could not reproduce the problems, So I took him for a ride, during which the vehicle shuttered and shook several times. Within seconds he diagnosed it as Fuel Pump. Because I do not trust the dealer, I declined to let them repair the truck, yet stuck with $110 Diag Fee. I replaced the Fuel Pump, and after 15 minutes of warming the car continues to shutter and shake.
    After a couple minutes to warm, the car shutters beyond 2000 RPMs. I refuse to pay of another Diag fee. They missed it the first time, now we try again.
  • bachmanbachman Posts: 31
    Just taking a poke at it but

    1) could it be an air flow and or fuel mixture issue ?

    Secondly, I am awestruck by dealers that hit us with the $100 diag fee then won't stand behind it. I'd rather they do the work and replace the part after I'm in for the $100. Then, how can they make you pay for the diag and the fix when the fix isn't it..?
    Tell them they are going to earn that $100 this time around and you'll know when they are done because you car is fixed and under warranty for a while to boot.
    *Simplify your point; One diagnosis fee = one correct diagnosis period.
    They'd likely have to re-do another diag but you cannot owe them for two fees when they boogered it up the first time if the fuel pump they put on is not the fix.

    The whole idea of the fee is paying for the elaborate computers they have that are nearly fool proof and save them hours of time in actual diagnosis cost/labor. They are double dipping in the profit center most of the time. Book time is $80 or more per hour nowadays and we are paying $100 for a 2 minute hook up to the computer. That's $50 per minute and lawyers don't make that !!

    I always think about how things like that can go wrong and I try to rehearse what I'll say to counter them .... and how I"ll say it. It pays to be nice and friendly but hold your ground at the same time. I have them listen to me say it out loud and restate it back to me that I'll pay the diag fee and the fix if it's the solution. I'm sure there are times when it can be a domino effect or one problem linked to another gizmo but that would be an exception and I believe I'd understand the process and if I felt them credible, I'd pay the extra w/o fuss. For the most part just get them to agree to your terms or go elsewhere before the fees add up and the thing still pukes and fogs. Good luck!
  • pdmclaypdmclay Posts: 4
    My 2008 Mazda Tribute has the same issue. It always starts. However, sometimes it takes an extended time to start. Only 46,000 miles. Replaced fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, and use quality fuel. Let me know if you run into anything new.

    Clay
  • gwileygwiley Posts: 1
    Hope u can help. good morning hope you still read posts. Im having the same problem, did u get the problem resolved ? any info is helpfull. Thanks gary wiley wilmington de
  • Hi

    We have a 2001 Mazda Tribute - occassionally it will not start - the motor turns over, battery is good - but it does not catch.

    If we leave it for a couple of minutes, then turn the key again , it will start. We had the fuel filter replaced a few months ago and after that particular operation, the issue seemed to go away - unfortunately to return now. Has anyone seen this
    before ? , any idea of what the problem could be ?

    Our mechanic said last time that they saw no events
    in the cars engine computer - in fact for something
    there to register the 'check engine light' would have to come on - in this case - the 'check engine light' does not come on - so we have no idea as to the issue.

    The car is leaking a little oil but outwith that there is no
    other standing issue here.

    Any thoughts appreciated .... car has 120k. Oil changed regularly every 5k. miles.
  • 1. If the key shaped lamp on the dash is flashing wile cranking, you have an anti theft problem,
    2. The Idle Air Control valve can stick closed intermittently - if you open the throttle a bit while cranking and it starts, change it.
    3. If the fuel pump check valve does not hold pressure with the key off it can cause extended crank before starting. Cycle the key on and off before starting (primes fuel system). If it starts with this method, get the fuel holding pressure checked.

    4. Get a new mechanic.
  • Thank you very much .... I was thinking of changing the spark plugs aswell here as
    they have not been changed in a very long time .... probably won't do any harm together with the other items you mention here. I had to laugh at point 4. - probably
    should consider it :) cheers ....
  • No problems so far - thanks again ... !!
  • 110,000 miles - runs fine when cold - after engine warm car will stall out (manual transmision) when clutch depressed - doesn't happen under about 1500 rpms - can someone give me an idea of what is wrong.
  • 2005 Mazda Tribute, starts good in the morning, after driving the car will not start. The key turns over but absolutely nothing happens. All guages and radio etc work but will not start. If you let it sit it will then start. I have had the battery checked and it is not the issue, the starter tested okay...not sure where to go with this , any ideas ?
  • I have been driving my Mazda tribute for the last several moths with no problems. This morning I got in it to drive it and it would not start. The engine turns over normally and the battery is strong. There is just no ignition. I have checked all the fuses I can and I even disconnected the computer. No luck. Does anyone know something I can try?
  • may be its an issue of lack of gas..
  • triciam808triciam808 Posts: 2
    edited January 2011
    I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute V6 with almost 80,000 miles on it. It will not start after I have driven a long distance and keep starting & stopping my car. It will turn over but then it just dies. If I let it cool down for more than an hour it usually will start. Just lately it has not been starting even in the morning, its been taking like 2 or 3 times to try and start it. Please help!! I do not know what is wrong!
  • What you wrote about your car sound exactly like the problem with my car!! Did you get an answer from the dealership what is wrong? Thank you for responding.
  • dlovettdlovett Posts: 2
    My wife bought this car 2nd hand with 270,000 Kms on the speedo. For a while everything went well, but after about 2 months the motor would snuff and die. The only way I could get it to the mechanic was to open the throttle wide (High Revs) and ride the brake at the same time and prayed that the traffic light were going to be kind to me.

    Anyway our mechanic found that a hose which feeds from somewhere??? was collasping in itself (possibly some vacuum hose) and he said the hose was not the Mazda original. So he replaced it with a more stronger hose and that seemed to have fixed that problem.

    After about a week later, the motor would start good but some days the motor would misfire and you could see the tacho needle jumping up and down about 300 rpm. On those days the motor had no power and it was astruggle to keep it going.

    On other days the motor would not miss a beat and performed well all day. But the very next day it went back to the misfire.

    So I took it back to the mechanic who then changed the lft front coil pack and this seemed to fix the problem.

    After about another week the misfire returned.

    The machanic suggested we change all of the spark plugs to the more expensive ones with a longer life which meant the manifold had to come off (Just to change the plugs) DOH.

    Anyway after a $750.00 AUD bill the car is still misfiring on some days and some days it has lots of grunt.

    I talked to a Mazda mechanic and he said that he chased his tail for 2 years with no luck and he just gave up. He reckons that it is design fault in the motor from new!!!!!

    So if anybody out in inernet land can help well I am listening Thanks from Dennis in Australia.
  • My 2001 Tribute (which I've had since it rolled off the lot) and now has 153K miles (240K km). I have had all the service done on time at the dealership. But I had the same issue starting mid-2010 and got it fixed about 2 months ago. I found that the symptoms dimished after I had been driving for about 15-20 minutes, so I thought my plugs were getting bad and needed a warmer engine to work better (even though Mazda installs plugs rated for 90K miles / 145K km, and I only used 2/3 of their life). I initially tried having the fuel system cleaned. That seemed to work for about a week, but I still had issues of rough idling and occassional stalling at red lights.

    The dealership ran a diagnostic and told me that I had a crack in my head gasket, which was causing leaks of air into the system (which was worse when the engine was cold). Also, my idle speed sensor (which regulates the fuel/air mixture at different engine temps and RPMs) needed replacing. I hated to spend the money to get everything fixed, but my car runs like a charm now!

    And since replacing the plugs involved taking the engine apart (which cost about $350US) the dealership replaced them at only the cost of the plugs while they had the head off to replace the gasket.

    I hate that you already had the plugs replaced, but I would recommend having your mechanic look at your gasket and idle speed sensor. If that's the problem, hopefully your mechanic will realize his oversight and work with you on the repair bill (since he already had the engine apart and should have seen the condition of the gasket).
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