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Pontiac Montana

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  • I have a 2000 Montana that doesn't seem to have the best lights on it. Ok, they suck. The dims are actually better than high beams as long as you have the fog lights on; but as soon as you go to highs, the fogs turn off(pontiac says theres no way to keep them on with high beams) The lights are adjusted but the reflectors are where the bevels are, not the lense. I have a big floodlight that won,t let you see more than 30 ft. down the road. They just plain suck. Has anyone else ran into this and if so, how did/do you fix it so the headlights can be used?
  • I recently have been having trouble w/ my Montana stalling out at stop lights/signs. I have had 3 garages look at it and they all say the computer doesn't show anything and it won't stall for them. I have had a new fuel filter, spark plugs, idler arm changed on it and nothing changes. If anyone has had anything similar please let me know what it may be. Also after stalling there is a strong smell throughout the van. Other than this the van has been very good. Please help!!
  • drews18, it may be helpful if you listed the year and mileage of your Montana. And more details releating to the three service visits for just the stall issue.
  • Year 1999, mileage 96,000. The three visits the mechanics all put it on the computer and there were no diagnostics to indicate anything was wrong. I am just curious if anyone else has any idea what it could be. It is very frustrating never knowing when it is going to stall. Only stalls when not moving. Doesn't matter if in park or drive. When it is getting ready to stall the rpm will bounce between 1-0 lights dim alittle bit. Then stall and bad smell. We have also put new battery as well as battery cable. It has been seen by 3 different mechanics a total if 6 times!!!!!!!!!$$$$$$$
  • I have a 2001 pontiac montana with 23,000 miles. The problem is when im driving down the road the power locks keep trying to lock. sometimes it will do it just sitting in my garage with the keys in the ignition. any ideas? thanks
  • My Firebird's locks would go nuts occasionally when it was raining, I couldn't figure out how to stop it. I think if any water got in the switch it would short it.
  • that sounds like a stumper, but try having someone inspect the wiring harness under the battery and along under the washer container. Did you have to replace the battery recently? many of these Delco batteries were crap and leaked acid, causing some odd electrial problems. Definately sounds like an electrial problem. Also, did you have the alternator replaced? It sounds like the engine might be moving under load (when moving) and when not under load, maybe its connection is going bad causing the engine to stumble. Also check the coil packs for corrosion.

    These are normally bulletproof power train except for coolant leaks.
  • lennxlennx Posts: 73
    Try replacing the sprak plug wires. If they are old, it will stall when it gets damp or rains.

    If you want, you can test the wires with a spray bottle full of water. Spray each wire. When you find one that is giving you trouble, the van will stall.
  • The orginal light system is poor. We recently changed the bulbs over to the new Sylvania Silver STar bulbs. Much better.

    They cost about $22 each and Canadian Tire. (About 18.00 US)

    Changing bulbs is easy. Follow instructions in owners manual. Be careful not to touch the glass part of the bulb. Oil on fingers is bad for bulb.
  • Our ’97 Transport has 250,000 kms on it. (155,000 miles.) Only significant repairs to date have been a failed front wheel bearing and a new battery. Brakes have been replaced three times, as expected. This has been excellent service. Van still has original shocks and struts.

    A number of minor problems are accumulating to the point we want to get them taken care of. Other readers will have faced them, too, so would like some feedback on what is the problem and the best way to get it fixed.

    1.) The front wipers have only one speed – fast. No slow speed and no intermittent speed. They will not park when turned off, unless I turn them off at exactly the right place.

    Is this a failed wiper control on the driving column or a failed wiper motor?

    2.) The car occasional develops a severe shudder at around cruise speed. It goes away if I accelerate. It only lasts for a minute or so and then id gone for a few days. I have always assumed it was transmission related. Others had the problem and found the cure?

    3) We lost all engine coolant, with no sign of a leak. There was a white emulsion around the oil cap, so we assume the coolant went through the oil system. This is BAD.

    We replaced oil and coolant and added heavy duty rad sealant to the coolant. This has worked just fine (6 months.) I assume the problem is the manifold gasket problem we have heard about. If we have the gasket replaced, will that solve the problem – or will it come back?

    My mechanic (not a dealer) assures me that the V6 and transmission of this series of vehicles is very reliable. He recommends the GM cars because the problems tend to be minor items rather than major problems. We bought the Transport because he recommended it to us. Other than the suspected leaking manifold gasket, his advice has been accurate. Problems have been minor.

    Sure looking forward to hearing what is causing the shudder.
  • baveuxbaveux Posts: 175
    Hi,how high is the gauge pointing at normal engine temperature.

    In winter mine never goes above the third line on the gauge, I think that I'm running cold
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    Montana SV6

    People are talking about it in the 2005 Chevrolet Uplander/Pontiac Montana SV6/Saturn Relay/Buick Terraza discussion.

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    Moderator
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  • veestarveestar Posts: 16
    Can someone share with me the method for rocking the engine foward. My Haynes manual recommended doing this in order to change the rear spark plugs, but failed to mention how this is done. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • jeberjeber Posts: 91
    I've never done it, and I would also like to hear specifics on how...I assume you would loosen a motor mount or two, and get a floor jack with a block of wood under tranny and slowly move until sp plugs can be accessed

    dontcha love when manuals do that - they say, "first do 'THIS'... and just leave you to your own devices? lol kind of defeats the purpose of having the manual sometimes! good luck. Put in some good, long-life platinum plugs!
  • dlubindlubin Posts: 66
    We're on our second Montanta (2001, 8 passenger, lots of goodies including the video system). We re-surveyed the market for 'ideal vehicles' and still didn't like the Chrysler's, didn't love the new Nissan, or the Ford.

    We did like the Toyota, but they can't be had at any reasonable discount, and the Honda but didn't feel it did a whole lot different for us.

    Add in the fact that trade-in value on these is horrendous, and we decided to put new tires on the Montana (only 24000 miles but we never rotated them), and with new Toyo Ultra 800's it's a whole new vehicle.

    It's not a great vehicle, but it is a solid 'OK', and hasn't had any larger failure so far than squeaking and rattling. We do have MajorGuard for another three years though, and I don't intend to keep it past there...
  • veestarveestar Posts: 16
    Thanks for the link. Now that's what they should have in the manual. I, like you, have thought seriously about selling my '97 Montana because of how hard it is to get reasonable access to the most basic engine related repairs. Thanks again
  • jimbeejimbee Posts: 3
    Mine sits at the 11 o'clock position and always looks like it is running cool.

    I guess thast is normal. Lots of heat from the heater.
  • baveuxbaveux Posts: 175
    I"ll know for sure Monday !!

    However thanks for your input
  • Has anybody ever been hurt by a 2000 Montana power door closing on them and not reversing? I suppose the recalls took care of the accidental opening problem, but nothing has been done about the excessively forceful closing door. Is it possible the 2000 doors were made more forceful as the initial attempt at fixing the accidental opening problem? GM's secret? [Note: we no longer have the van]
  • baveuxbaveux Posts: 175
    The gauge and my assumption were right, the thermostat was defective, they changed it today and now the hand on the gauge is just below the halfway mark Yeah !
  • veestarveestar Posts: 16
    I just installed new wheel cylinders, brake shoes, and new brake drums on my '97 Montana. I noticed that the manual says to mark the location of your old brake drums if you are going to re-use them. Can someone tell me why this is and is there a certain way that new ones should be put on, other than the obvious? After putting on my new shoes and drums, I'm now getting some pulsation from the rear brakes. I thought that it may be connected to the drum position. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • dindakdindak Posts: 6,632
    Looking to possibly pick up a 2004 Montana this year. I figure with it being the last year there should be some great deals coming.

    Do people generally like their vans? How are they for rattles after a few years? Any major issues? We have had 3 GM cars lately and all have been very good but I really don't know much about vans. We have #2 kid on the way so we need a hauler.

    Any help would be great. We are thinking of an SE short wheel base as I want it to fit in the garage and I want the alloys ect.
  • jeberjeber Posts: 91
    Just scroll through and read a bunch of messages on this discussion, and also the Silhouette, Venture, and "gm triplets" discussions (all are pretty much identical, mechanically). You're gonna find a mix of people who love their vans and sing their praises, and people who think they have the biggest piece of &#*% lemon ever built...and everything in between! I did a bunch of research into minivans before getting a used 01 silo, and really the only (potential) thing that commonly affects these vans (with 3.4 V-6) is a tendency for the intake manifold gasket to start leaking coolant. GM won't, as far as I know, take care of that if out of warranty, even though IMO it is an obvious flaw/defect.

    I was pretty much leaning towards a toyota or honda minivan, but I weighed the tradeoffs, and decided the gm's would suit my purpose perfectly, for way, way less $. After driving a few gm's, toyotas, and hondas, I determined that performance, ride, interior space, etc. etc. were pretty comparable to the toy & honda, and I haven't been disappointed. I have about 55000 miles now, with no problems. I plan to keep until 125 or 150K miles, so resale ain't a big factor there. I know it won't be much! Oh, and don't be too put off by the "horrible/dismal offset crash test results" that some people will argue makes these vans rolling deathtraps...these vans are proven to be quite safe in a "real world" accident, IMO.

    mine hasn't developed any strange rattles or squeaks yet! good luck
  • baveuxbaveux Posts: 175
    I bought a Montana in 2002 and I would do the same again.
    There not perfect but they are a good value.
  • I believe what you are referring to is where you need to mark the lug nuts studs in reference to the drum before removing it. This way it gets put back on at the same spot. Why this is that critical I am not 100 percent sure. You would think with new shoes and hardware it would not matter that much. As far as why the brakes are pulsating I am not sure if this is related or not. Sounds like another issue.
  • dindakdindak Posts: 6,632
    jber : Ya, I know about the possible intake manifold gasket on the 3.4L. I guess that has not been addressed for 04? Is it covered by the powertrian warranty? I see than GM is offering 5 years for Montana powertrains in Canada now.

    baveux : Ya, I think they are a great value, they look sporty (for a van) and they seem to drive really well. I will wait for the deals to hit up in the spring / summer. Baby is due in June so it can wait.
  • c11166c11166 Posts: 4
    What is happening here is related to the drum itself and how it sits in relation to the studs(and the studholes in the drum itself). This will cause the pulsation of the pads to some degree. I find you get what you pay for. Go for expensive pads and rotors and if this doesn't work, replace the drums--if the car is over three years old.
  • c11166c11166 Posts: 4
    It is probably the computer chip on the wiper motor that is the culprit. You can replace these separately--look around for a good price.
  • c11166c11166 Posts: 4
    Can somebody tell me if these vans will really injure driver and passengers in a crash. Offset crash scores and scores in general indicate this
    Thanks
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