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Pontiac Montana

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Comments

  • mailmail Posts: 10
    Try and find my posts regarding similar problems.. under kennie or kenie. Unfortuantely my problem was a head gasket leak into one of the cylinders that blew coolant out the tailpipe - eventually the head gasket let go and that was it. Found a shop that did the work for $2600 and they did a great job. My van wasn't even worth that but I liked it enough to put the bucks into it. The van eats money up if you have to depend on the dealership... but if you are handy and not afraid of work you can keeper going. Just did my drive axle, bearings and tierods... took me forever but if I had to do it again it would take me about 1/10th the time. I suspect head gaskets with a small leak OR you have a puncher somewhere that you are not seeing and air is getting into the system not allowing the coolant to flow in some areas which cause the temperature spikes that you are seeing. This happened to me enough times that eventually the head gasket let go. Lucky it was not on holidays but a few blocks from my house. Tell your wife if she blows DON"T DRIVE IT, stop and get a tow... you run it blown it could bust and bend rods up real quick and then it will be your last tow forsure. My tranny is the only thing left that is causing me problems... hard shifting. If I wanted to gamble i'd replace the filter and fluid after 180k but 8 times out of 10 this causes the tranny to slip becoming almost pointless to fix... not worth the risk to me, i'll drive her until she stops then install a rebuilt or wreaker one or make the hard decision to scrap.
  • Interested in purchasing this car for my son and his family. Body and interior of car is in great condition, however, the car is blowing out air for heat. What could be the problem?
  • My guess is a blocked heater core, i.e. there's a clog in the engine cooling system .

    You could call a GM service center and ask them about $ to fix, or try a Pep Boys.
  • aitkenheadaitkenhead Posts: 12
    I have the fairly uncommon 2003 Montana with Versatrak AWD and I need to replace the catalytic converter. I've bought a direct-fit type replacement and installation should just be a matter of turning exhaust system nuts at either end. However, because this is the AWD model, the catalytic converter pipe crosses over the middle torque shaft. While I haven't started, I suspect it will be impossible to get the old cat and its piping out and the new cat in, without dropping out the middle torque shaft to make clearance.

    Haynes manual does not seem to cover AWD issues. The middle torque shaft has 6 hex head bolts at either end. They are amazingly small and fit a 8mm socket, and the socket needs to be 1/4 inch drive (or the socket will be too thick to get onto the bolt head due to clearance). Does anybody know, will that middle torque shaft drop out easily if I remove those bolts, and upon reinstallation of the torque shaft what is the torque for those 12 bolts.

    See it Here diagram position 1.
  • What if you have a leak on the Drivers side & not the passenger side? Are there 2 drain hoses ~ one on each side of the car? How can you tell if the drain hoses have popped off?
  • Ran great but when I went to install a new stereo it lost all power.Replaced battery tried to jump it and still nothing.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 268
    The red/blue temp setting knob isn't working, we get full hot air. The knob turns very easily, I suppose there's a physical connection that's slipped/ broken/ worn out. Does anyone know if there's something in there I can fix myself?
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 268
    Weird. I just got home, my wife reports it's working now. Still, I'd be happy receive comments.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 268
    Had a look at replacement units on ebay, looks like the control connects to a wire harness, which I guess may be loose in my car.
  • mailmail Posts: 10
    All speeds except 1 and 2 worked on mine. Its a [non-permissible content removed] to get out but pull the motor and pull the control board, if burnt like mine just repalce it (wreaking yard or new) and you'll be good to go. Mine was obviously burnt and low speeds did not work at all. Maybe your's is on the way out but still "kinda" working.... good luck. Kennie
  • If you have two original keys, which you should have, plus the new pk3.
    Go to hardware store or locksmith and have it cut.

    1. Insert the first original key into ignition, turn to on, but don't start engine.
    2. Leave on for about 5 seconds.
    3. Remove
    4. Insert second original key. Turn to on, but don't start engine.
    5. Leave on for about 5 seconds.
    6. Remove
    7. Insert new pk3 key into ignition, turn to on, but don't start engine.
    Leave on for about 15 seconds. Start engine.

    I am not sure but if you have three keys you may have to insert it into repeat steps 1 -3 before if you have to step 7.

    I have successfully programmed my pk3 in my 2002 Pontiac Montana, using steps 1 through 7.
  • I am having the same problem and it is driving me nuts! I have replaced almost everything and can not solve the problem. When you first start it up it cranks over smooth first turn. Then at random intervals while driving it will just turn itself off and the power steering goes away. It scared the hell out of my kid and we really did almost get creamed by a big truck. Thank God for that trucker's skills and reflexes because he barely missed us, pulled over, and came back to help us and call for help. The crazy part was when he said that another buddy of his had a similar problem with another Pontiac Montana and suggested that I wait 20 minutes and try to start it. So we did and it fired right up like nothing had ever happened. It has done this at least a dozen times since and as I said nothing I do to it seems to help in any way. So, Please, I am open to any suggestions. Help!!!
  • I had this problem last August, 130650 miles. The dealer service dept replaced the ignition switch and it's been just fine ever since, but the diagnosis involved the technician referring to a "TAC case" to figure out the problem.
  • richardjewellrichardjewell Posts: 2
    edited February 2013
    Thank you. Ok. Replaced the ignition switch and it is still doing it. Suggestions anyone?
  • If you email me at chrisleb1@aol.com I can send you a scan of my repair sheet- it has some diagnosis on it.
  • tiny_bambitiny_bambi Posts: 14
    edited February 2013
    I had a 1998 Pontiac Trans sport but salvaged it in Oct 2012. over 100,000 miles on it and found oil in the radiator this time. It was her time. Wow I had never had stalling issues with the van though. That can be scarey!! Have you checked fuel filter and the fuel pump? Almost sounds as if your not getting enough fuel pumped up to the engine. Could be that or the fuel injectors are in need of cleaning or replacement and or the fuel pump/filter.
  • bighank1bighank1 Posts: 9
    Saw a vacuum line hanging down underneath at left rear at very back of the Montana. It is a single line going forward but splits to 2 lines which are about 5" long. Line is about 5/16" or so and is deteriorated. Is raining cats and dogs here so I didn't jack up the van or crawl under to determine where the line came from or why it is split into a T near the back. It is near what I think is the pump for the inflatable shocks. When I changed the shocks about 2 years ago I remember hard plastic lines going to each of them not rubber hoses.
    Just pushed the dangling hoses up and over the electrical wires which are running along with the rubber hose.

    What is the line for and where does it connect in the back and further forward?
  • aitkenheadaitkenhead Posts: 12
    You are quite right, these lines are related to the air ride suspension. One of these lines you see goes to an air filter to prevent dirt, grit and water from entering the air compressor. This is probably the one that rotted. If your compressor still works, then it turns on and you can hear it when you turn on the convenience inflator feature inside the rear left of the trunk. If your compressor still works, repair the rotted lines quickly or the compressor will be ruined very soon. It happened to mine and I bought a used compressor on eBay.
  • bighank1bighank1 Posts: 9
    Catalyst Monitor not ready what do I need to do to get this emissions setting ready
    Have a CATALYST MONITOR setting for emissions not ready.
    99 Montana. What do I have to do to get this setting ready?
    Battery was disconnected and all other monitors have become ready but not the Catalyst Monitor. Have driven 100 miles and still not ready.
  • maddog0324maddog0324 Posts: 54
    It can take up to 40 consecutive warm-up cycles before the I/M is ready. Did you have any codes before the battery was disconnected?
  • bighank1bighank1 Posts: 9
    No codes before battery disconnected and no codes now hard or pending.
    No MIL or check engine light. EGR and evap are ready.
  • maddog0324maddog0324 Posts: 54
    Does your state's emissions check program require that all of the all I/M Monitors to be in a status of Ready or N/A in order for the vehicle to pass? A monitor status of 'Not Ready' means that the required driving conditions for that monitor have not been completed. Drive the vehicle as you normally would and it should set in a couple of weeks.
  • I have the same issues with my headlights. I have tried almost EVERYTHING to fix the problem. Please lemme know if you find a fix.
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