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Pontiac Montana



  • kenniekennie Posts: 38
    What do you mean by no driver information Display?
  • Hello, I just purchased a 98 Trans Sport Montana, was told up front that the electric door does not work. I do my own repairs as much as possible. Where do I start with this issue. :confuse:
    Thanks Dean
  • tiny_bambitiny_bambi Posts: 14
    You can try cleaning the metal contact part where the door closes but I found that not to be the fix all and continued having issues with the slider in my van not functioning as it should. (I just shut it off and kept it that way) I have a 1998 Pontiac Transport. You might want to call the appropriate dealership in your area, There was a recall on this issue so my guess is that you should be able to get the repair at no cost to you. I did go in for the recall and was told that they did not have the part at the time but would order it and call me but I never heard from them. Like your name by the way, Lol :-)
  • bifsterbifster Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me if a full size (215 70R15) tire will fit where the donut spare tire is?
    There seems to be allot of room under there but would like to find out before getting on my back.Thanks in advance! :)
  • lolak70lolak70 Posts: 2
    My passenger side power window worked fine today, and then an hour later it wouldn't work with the passenger or driver side switch. Then when we got out of the van, my husband got a bad shock when he touched the passenger door. Any ideas what would be causing this?
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 268
    It may be a an electrical short...could be as simple as a loose wire.
  • frymanfryman Posts: 19
    I have a 1998 transport that has recently developed a noise from the drive train (transmission, axle or wheel) that sounds like a prop plane. It increases in frequency and volume as speed increases. It is not engine, can shift into nuetral and the noise will continue, winding down as the car slows.
    When I lifted the front end and took off the wheels to see if I could pin point, the traction control turns on and applies brakes (without track on the wheels) so any idea of what the problem is would be helpful.
    I need this car to last another two-three months so if this is something I can drive on, so much the better.
  • nthompson1nthompson1 Posts: 13
    I recently bought the above van, and immediately discovered a overheating problem which occurs in driveway while idling, and also driving a mile starting cold. Before I bought it, I sat in the passenger seat while the previous owner drove it a short distance, so I couldn't see the gauges. Of course, the owner claims it never happened before.
    First, gauge on the dash goes all the way over to hot, then the lighted water signal says hot, then the check engine light goes on. Then the engine dies but restarts easy.
    When I first looked at the engine coolant reservoir at the owner's house, it was almost full. Now it is full to the top, and the radiator is short 1/2 gallon.
    The previous put 1/2 gallon water in the radiator at my house.
    When we started the engine again, the radiator fluid is sucked out somewhere, again 1/2 gallon short.
    My thought is to take another car to the store and buy the DEX-COOL recommended in the manual, drive the trans sport to a parts store to get tested.
    My "new" trans sport has 186,000 miles. It has 13 car faxes(cost $40 to get).
    Is it possible there is a simple solution?
    I am VERY wary as I just had a master brake cylinder installed on a 1991 Dodge Ram Pickup. It doesnt brake any better, and now am told it needs at least new brake lines.
    I am a deserving person who needs your help. Thank you.
  • quehousequehouse Posts: 7
    Sounds like a wheel bearing assembly to me. Easy to change but the part is fairly expensive. If one side is gone then surely the other side is close to going. Good luck.
  • quehousequehouse Posts: 7
    Check your engine oil. I bet it is over full. If so you have a blown manifold gasket. Sounds like the correct mileage for this engine. The dexcool eats away at the cheap OM gasket. Have it changed to the metal reinforced gasket and you will be good to go.
  • aitkenheadaitkenhead Posts: 12
    If you have all wheel drive, no, a full size wheel will not fit in the spare stowage underneath.
  • nthompson1nthompson1 Posts: 13
    Thanks so much for the quick response. I am saving and printing all Internet postings re this problem before I take it to a repairman.
    Message #1229 and #1230 also refer to a faulty intake manifold gasket.
    See posting by 442much. This gives details of class action lawsuit against GM in Canada after CTV Whistleblower report that reveals in detail this same problem in millions of GM vehicles.
    My mechanic in Iuka MS told me to check the underneath of oil cap; if it has yellow gel, that means the intake may have a leak. I checked this before I bought the Trans Sport; and, it does not have that.
    I am in SW MI.
    The engine oil is not overfull; but 1/2 gallon extra may not be enough to change the visible level on the stick,
    The actual mileage is 180,145. It would seem that someone would have had to have changed the OM gasket before now. Maybe it went bad again.
    The plastic engine coolant reservoir does not have a full hot marker, only a full cold. There are 2 small holes drilled in the top; one has a black plug in it. The other hole is open.
    I deeply appreciate all replies. If this ends up to be an inexpensive repair(under $100), I will be a happy camper.
  • shanesmomshanesmom Posts: 1
    My 2001 Pontiac Montana overheats when slowing down or is at an idle. We have changed the water pump, thermostat, radiator, intake manifold gasket and it still over heats. And bleed it until I was bleeding. Any suggestions?
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    Could be bad "head gasket" - which is different then intake gasket. One of my previous vehicles was a Chev Sunbird. Loved its engine power but it loved eating head gaskets even more. After its 2nd head gasket (due to over heating when idling in traffic), it had to go. With cold rad, remove its main rad cap and start its engine. Let idle for more then 10 minutes - or when it heats up too much. If you look down with a flashlight and see bubles floating upward inside the main rad, this its head gasket it gone as well. That's how I confirmed both head gaskets were gone on my previous vehicle. re: Bubbles = trouble. LOL!!!!

    Hope this helps...

  • aitkenheadaitkenhead Posts: 12
    Did you ever get a diagnosis on this? Did it prove to be the hub assembly like guehouse suggested? If so which wheel? I have the same symptom of a sound from the front end like an airplane prop slowing down when decelerating. 2003 Montana AWD w 80K miles.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 268
    Bad heater core?
  • bikeralbikeral Posts: 6
    i had the same problem and it turned out to be a leak into one of my cylinder from a bad head gasket. good luck
  • frymanfryman Posts: 19
    Not yet but based on guehouse diagnosis and the shop manual, probably is the wheel bearing. Think it is the passenger side.
  • frymanfryman Posts: 19
    I had the same problem and it turned out to be a blown head gasket.

    Replaced the head gaskets and remanufactured heads and have gotten another 25000 miles of it and still going strong (172K to date). Rear side of the engine is a bear to work on though but I was able to complete the job (first engine top end rebuild). The shop manual is almost required if you are going to do it yourself.

    Good luck
  • aitkenheadaitkenhead Posts: 12
    Well, I just spent all day changing the front left wheel hub-bearing assembly, and yep, that's what the airplane prop noise was. The worn assembly was so bad that, after removal, it could not be turned by hand, and the ABS sensor housing (integrated with it) was all cooked and distorted.
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