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Pontiac Montana

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  • frymanfryman Posts: 19
    Just spent most of the day replacing the front passenger hub assembly and I am happy to say I could let the stewardesses go. The hub came apart and had rusty water in it. Gueman, thanks for advice, that solved the problem.
  • gvanzant1gvanzant1 Posts: 2
    Last week, while on a trip, my wife and I noticed a strong gas odor coming from our 2005 Pontiac Montana. The odor is inconsistent: sometimes we notice it when the van is running; other times there is no odor at all when running. Then, we may notice it when the van is parked (not running), but again at other times, there is no odor while parked. So I took it to a mechanic who had it for several hours and couldn't find any leak nor noticed any odor. He started and restarted the van and even drove it a couple times. Nothing. There was no odor for 2-3 days, but then today, it was back and stronger than ever. If we notice it while driving, we simply pull over, turn the van off and then back on, and it usually disappears. What do we tell the mechanic to look for?
  • nthompson1nthompson1 Posts: 13
    For now, a mechanic came to my house, changed oil, filters, thermostat, etc..
    The obvious overheating culprit is a hole in the plastic end of the upper right side of radiator(gets air filter wet).
    Radiator and labor costs about $450.
    IS THERE ANY AVAILABLE SUBSTANCE THAT I CAN ADHERE TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE RADIATOR AT THE LEAK? ITS WORTH A TRY.
    After spending $1450 for vehicle, $450 for title, plate, and insurance, and $100 for mechanic, I am trying any possible, cheap solution first.
    If I have to have the radiator changed, should I have a universal coolant and reinforced metal gaskets put in, or keep as is(Dex Cool)?
    Lets hope the intake manifold gasket and head gasket are okay.
    Thanks a lot.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    Not too sure of any glue or paste that will fix a leaky rad. JB Weld Epoxy might work but not too sure if I'd truse it on a vibrating / high heat rad. For a visual, surf: http://store.heavenlyhobbies.com/29-002-8265s.html

    If this is your daily ride (and needs to be reliable), I'd make lots of phone calls and price a new rad replacement. And buy a new rad cap as well. Call around, then drive to the store to buy it. I'd then install the new rad and new hoses myself. If you aren't "good with a wrench", invite a few wrench monkeys (LOL!) over and give them beer AFTER they installed and tested your van's new rad.

    For main RAD cooling fluid, I'd install what the owner's manual calls for. For example, university antifreeze or DEX-Cool stuff. Sometimes, the rad's overflow container will state on the outside what to use as well. If you do switch to other fluid, you'll need to flush the system multiple times. I hear one cannot mix both fluids - or lumps will form.

    Also... I hear today's Dex-Cool formula is much better then pre-2003 formula. Today's version is friendlier on gaskets and water pumps. Still, I'd change Dex-Cool fluid every 4 years (same replacement schedule as normal universal anti-freeze).

    Hope this helps...

    .
  • nthompson1nthompson1 Posts: 13
    Is it normal for level to be 3-4" below top of radiator fill opening(while cool)? If I fill it, coolant drains over to the reservoir.

    With a new thermostat installed, the visual water gauge shortly swings over to hot, and then back to normal for the rest of the ride. Also, the air filter doesnt get wet now.

    I had ordered a new radiator(crack in plastic cap end) but it never came (out of stock).

    Thanks a lot.
  • aitkenheadaitkenhead Posts: 12
    I want to install an auxiliary transmission oil cooler in my 03 Montana. I do not understand how to disconnect the existing rigid cooler line at the radiator. Hayden/Imperial, manufacturer of my new cooler, had me order their fit kit number 397 which is just a flared brass tube, a compromise coupling. I am supposed to release the existing rigid tube at its quick-disconnect union at the radiator and substitute their coupling. I've tried several quick disconnect tools from the auto parts store, either split nylon collets or scissors-like tools that are supposed to encircle the rigid tube and slip into the union to spread the spring clip in there. These don't work for me (admittedly, they don't claim to work on transmission cooler lines). Any DIYers out there solve this one, or is there a professional who can give me a hint?
  • aitkenheadaitkenhead Posts: 12
    I found my own answer. The quick disconnect solution for the transmission cooler lines comes from a company called Jiffy Tite and their website has a wealth of information on how to deal with it.
  • nthompson1nthompson1 Posts: 13
    Reply to quehouse reply.
    Have had a new radiator/radiator cap installed. Overheating probem is sooner, worse. The mechanuc who installed the radiator in 2 hours, gunned the engine for about 45 minutes(on and off, mostly on). This frightened me. After I left and went to Walmart, it overheated 30 mintues later. I took the Trans Sport back to mechanic. He released the pressure with a tool, and spent about 5 minutes on vehicle. He said all it needed is to be burped to get air bubble out. Driving home, it still overheated. I stopped at another service station and asked him to burp it. Mechanic there said head gasket is blown.
    I have tried all kinds of ways to burp the radiator(cap on and off, adding coolant, etc.) in the driveway.
    After first mechanic replaced cracked end radiator, vehicle now sends out white smoke, and oil is showing higher on dipstick.
    How do I know if the problem is intake manifold gasket or had gasket?
    Please help me.
  • boga228boga228 Posts: 50
    No matter what the problem is they still would to pull the intake out to check the gaskets. They also can do a cylinder leakage test or a compression test on the cylinders. Try and find a good mechanic if not see the dealer to find the real problem hope that helps.
  • quehousequehouse Posts: 7
    I am almost sure that what you describe is a intake manifold gasket problem. What kind of mechanic installed your rad and did not notice that your engine oil was way over filled?? I would be looking for a new mechanic if I was you.
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    Sometimes, an engine can have a head and/or intake gasket leak and NOT show any external signs. For example, the "leakage" is being sucked into the cylinder very slowly and its very hard to detect. Even from inspecting its spark plug color and tail pipe color. If the RAD system constantly needs burping, then air is getting into its system. Most likely from blown head gasket.

    After engine is cool (sitting 24+ hours), remove its rad cap, let engine idle and "warm up" on its own (say 10-15 minutes), then look down its rad cap opening. If you see a bubble of air floating to the top, then its most likely a blown head gasket. That's how they detected blow head gasket on my previous vehicle.

    Being a 12+ year old van, I'd seriously think about trading in or selling for parts. Replacing head and intake gasket (do both at the same time) can cost from $2K to $3K. Especially if heads need to be plained down (to remove warp) as well. If wondering, I had to "dump" a previous GM vehicle that had a head gasket leak. It wasn't worth fixing either.

    Hope this helps....
  • glessenglessen Posts: 2
    I am working on a 2001 Pontiac Montana. I am replacing the A/C sompressor. This van has dual air. And I am looking for some kind of manual on how to replace this. I need to know where the rear air accumulator is? Any help would be greatful.

    Thank you
    Gordon
  • hello all i own a 2002 montana and last night had the scare of my life. it was raining and i had my youngest and my 4 month old grand daughter with me.

    i wasn't too far from home thankfully, when the heat gauge went way up and the temp light came on, i had no power in the motor ( barely made it up the hill ). pulled over to the side of the road and threw on my hazards. (dangerous spot to have to stop but had no choice).

    lots of coolant in the resevour, let it cool down for about an hour, drove it back home and parked it. this morning i started it back up to see if i could find a problem now my oil light is on and the oil life says it is at 0. just had the oil changed last month at the dealer.

    has anyone else had this sort of problem and could you please tell how to fix it? this is my only vehicle and i use it daily as i am moving.

    thank you for reading my post :sick:
  • I need to replace the back door or have it fixed. My ? is,What previous years have the same body parts. So, will a hatch door off of a 99', 00'or 01'models be the same hatch door as the 2004 model. Or even the Transports models, might they fit? :confuse:
  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    Immediate engine over heating could be from a variety of different reasons. Anything from "stuck / broken" inner engine oil pump, to too low of engine oil, to plugged oil filter (assuming the previous engine oil replacement folks did change the oil filter), to plugged up main radiator, to stuck main rad `thermostate`, to electric main rad fans NOT turning on when they should, to even engine head gasket leakage. Variety of different reasons that a certified auto mechanic must investigate. As a suggestion, call a few local auto mechanics in your area and ask them to investigate. Can you drive your van to your local mechanic or get them to Tow Truck it to their shop? Hard call on this decision. Hopefully, its a simple stuck thermotate or perhaps a broken wire on their main rad's electric fans. Hopefully, its something this simple (and low cost) to fix.

    Good luck.
  • since the over heating of my van i have driven it and for 5 days had no probs, now it is acting up again. temp gauge goes to the red and the dummy light comes on. since i reset the oil meter hasn't told me to check the oil. i plan on calling my garage to have them look at it i also hope it is a cheap fix. i had the thermostat changed 2 years ago.

    thank you for responding :sick:
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 268
    I think it could also be a blocked heater core, but this problem exceeds my modest abilities to analyze.
  • asb,check engine light and 1 other light stays on. the gas gauge stays on full. what could this be?
  • It is amazing. I was told by a dealer that it was going to cost $798 (to start) to fix the same problem on my 2001 Montana. I had already cleaned the van out and was going to sell it as is until I saw you post. For $66 I bought 2 circuit board replacements and the van passed inspection w/ no ABS or Trac lights on. Thanks you save our van or probably $1500 in repairs figuring that the $800 wouldn't have fixed it and they would have kept charging us for useless repairs
  • Is there any other Pontiac model that has a radio that is interchangeable with a 98 Montana?
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