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Pontiac Montana



  • cjt72cjt72 Posts: 3
    everything looked alright.....took apart the assembly and dont know wat i did but 1 brakelight came on.puzzled??? didnt want to take it to a garage but as its my only car i kinda have to. thanks again.
  • That posting about the overheated socket is an interesting thought. On other car I had plastic in an overheated harness connector soften and resin flowed into contacts, breaking contnuity. Maybe touch up the socket with a fold of sandpaper, or a little rattail file?

    I also wonder if the sockets are OK but electrical continuity for the bulbs to battery ground is via ground wire to the frame in the vicinity of the lamp assembly, and the grounds have gone flaky due to rust.
  • fastford1fastford1 Posts: 4
    I've had the same problem. I have changed the motor and still have the problem. Could there be another fix for this ??? Help I have both driver and pass window doing this on my van. I hate to put them down, not sure if I will get them to go back up.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 268
    It may be the switches are worn. You can get replacements online, I did this for my Montana, about $30 and easy to do.
  • Where are the resistors located that control fan speed ?
    I currently have my glove box removed trying to locate the resistors.
  • kenniekennie Posts: 38
    You will it under dash just above the passenger feet ! Mine went and the lower speeds did not work, replaced, all good now. [non-permissible content removed] to get out (one of I think 3 screws).
  • I have a 98 Trans Sport Montana and i'm having trouble with my front windshield wiper they work when they want to. I took it to Canadian Tire to get them working the one time because i had to go out of town and they told me it was a parking mechanism that was going and this is a part that goes alot in these vans. My question is does anyone know how much this part cost new or used.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 268
    Are the wipers out of phase, i.e., do they park incorrectly up on either side of the windshield?
  • akashmerakashmer Posts: 12
    Here is what I did to get the doors and motors back up and going on my 03'.

    Take the door finisher off, using a razor blade peel of the clear plastic sheeting and the using the razor to cut the black goo is easier that pulling. save to re-apply.

    Loosen all nuts on the window track and after you take the screw out apply Green LOCTITE the refasten. Make sure the original marks in the paint are covered by the bolt. This this way you know your putting everything back in the same position.

    The track grease is usually dry, re-spread new SILICONE plumbers grease to all moving parts.

    The electric motor is dirty! The electric motor is covered in a housing holding its rare earth magnets. Its Black, held on with 2 screws. remove the 2 screws pull of the cover. Mind the Rubber O ring. You will see the armiture and the 2 brushes. You can remove the armiture BUT be very careful not to damage the bushes/ bearing area on gear end of the unit. you have to clean the brush surface and re-lube the bearing so it may be easier to take it out...Putting it back in can be a pain but I thought it worth the try. it was, Mark the armature with a paint pen that way you know what position to put it back in.

    You now have to clean the front bearing area, brush contact area and the rear thrust bushing.

    I use an eraser to clean the contacts and electroinc parts cleaner to wash it off. The coils on the armiture can be rusty clean that off and wipe down with WD-40.
    Oil the bearing surface with LIGHT OIL. 3&1 or something like that ONLY.
    Put the armiture back in, the brushes will give you trouble, patience is a virtue.

    Clean the inside of the cover make the sure the magnets are good and strong. clean out all rust, coat w/ WD-40. AND add a drop or 2 of the Light oil to the bearing seat!
    put it back on Mind the O-ring smear some sicone grease on that to keep everything good and water tight.

    I have done this for EVEY car I have owned, all but my old honda with cranks!
    IT DOES WORK and is free...if you can do it!
  • wd42wd42 Posts: 1
    So i am trying to trouble shoot this on going issue with my van. It started with over heating and engine stalling with the temperature gauge pinning to the right. Mechanic said turn screw near thermostat to relive air. did not work. Change thermostat, did not work. Coolant flush worked great.... for 2 months then it happened again. Loosing fluid but dont know were it is going. Oil is clean. While driving it pinns to the right and the temp light comes on then it goes back down again. Top hose on rad HOT. bottom hose on rad does not seem to have any pressure to it... i really don't know what else to do and if its head gasket i am screwed... could it be water pump?
  • mailmail Posts: 10
    Try and find my posts regarding similar problems.. under kennie or kenie. Unfortuantely my problem was a head gasket leak into one of the cylinders that blew coolant out the tailpipe - eventually the head gasket let go and that was it. Found a shop that did the work for $2600 and they did a great job. My van wasn't even worth that but I liked it enough to put the bucks into it. The van eats money up if you have to depend on the dealership... but if you are handy and not afraid of work you can keeper going. Just did my drive axle, bearings and tierods... took me forever but if I had to do it again it would take me about 1/10th the time. I suspect head gaskets with a small leak OR you have a puncher somewhere that you are not seeing and air is getting into the system not allowing the coolant to flow in some areas which cause the temperature spikes that you are seeing. This happened to me enough times that eventually the head gasket let go. Lucky it was not on holidays but a few blocks from my house. Tell your wife if she blows DON"T DRIVE IT, stop and get a tow... you run it blown it could bust and bend rods up real quick and then it will be your last tow forsure. My tranny is the only thing left that is causing me problems... hard shifting. If I wanted to gamble i'd replace the filter and fluid after 180k but 8 times out of 10 this causes the tranny to slip becoming almost pointless to fix... not worth the risk to me, i'll drive her until she stops then install a rebuilt or wreaker one or make the hard decision to scrap.
  • Interested in purchasing this car for my son and his family. Body and interior of car is in great condition, however, the car is blowing out air for heat. What could be the problem?
  • My guess is a blocked heater core, i.e. there's a clog in the engine cooling system .

    You could call a GM service center and ask them about $ to fix, or try a Pep Boys.
  • aitkenheadaitkenhead Posts: 12
    I have the fairly uncommon 2003 Montana with Versatrak AWD and I need to replace the catalytic converter. I've bought a direct-fit type replacement and installation should just be a matter of turning exhaust system nuts at either end. However, because this is the AWD model, the catalytic converter pipe crosses over the middle torque shaft. While I haven't started, I suspect it will be impossible to get the old cat and its piping out and the new cat in, without dropping out the middle torque shaft to make clearance.

    Haynes manual does not seem to cover AWD issues. The middle torque shaft has 6 hex head bolts at either end. They are amazingly small and fit a 8mm socket, and the socket needs to be 1/4 inch drive (or the socket will be too thick to get onto the bolt head due to clearance). Does anybody know, will that middle torque shaft drop out easily if I remove those bolts, and upon reinstallation of the torque shaft what is the torque for those 12 bolts.

    See it Here diagram position 1.
  • What if you have a leak on the Drivers side & not the passenger side? Are there 2 drain hoses ~ one on each side of the car? How can you tell if the drain hoses have popped off?
  • Ran great but when I went to install a new stereo it lost all power.Replaced battery tried to jump it and still nothing.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 268
    The red/blue temp setting knob isn't working, we get full hot air. The knob turns very easily, I suppose there's a physical connection that's slipped/ broken/ worn out. Does anyone know if there's something in there I can fix myself?
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 268
    Weird. I just got home, my wife reports it's working now. Still, I'd be happy receive comments.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 268
    Had a look at replacement units on ebay, looks like the control connects to a wire harness, which I guess may be loose in my car.
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