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Pontiac Montana

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  • mailmail Posts: 10
    All speeds except 1 and 2 worked on mine. Its a [non-permissible content removed] to get out but pull the motor and pull the control board, if burnt like mine just repalce it (wreaking yard or new) and you'll be good to go. Mine was obviously burnt and low speeds did not work at all. Maybe your's is on the way out but still "kinda" working.... good luck. Kennie
  • If you have two original keys, which you should have, plus the new pk3.
    Go to hardware store or locksmith and have it cut.

    1. Insert the first original key into ignition, turn to on, but don't start engine.
    2. Leave on for about 5 seconds.
    3. Remove
    4. Insert second original key. Turn to on, but don't start engine.
    5. Leave on for about 5 seconds.
    6. Remove
    7. Insert new pk3 key into ignition, turn to on, but don't start engine.
    Leave on for about 15 seconds. Start engine.

    I am not sure but if you have three keys you may have to insert it into repeat steps 1 -3 before if you have to step 7.

    I have successfully programmed my pk3 in my 2002 Pontiac Montana, using steps 1 through 7.
  • I am having the same problem and it is driving me nuts! I have replaced almost everything and can not solve the problem. When you first start it up it cranks over smooth first turn. Then at random intervals while driving it will just turn itself off and the power steering goes away. It scared the hell out of my kid and we really did almost get creamed by a big truck. Thank God for that trucker's skills and reflexes because he barely missed us, pulled over, and came back to help us and call for help. The crazy part was when he said that another buddy of his had a similar problem with another Pontiac Montana and suggested that I wait 20 minutes and try to start it. So we did and it fired right up like nothing had ever happened. It has done this at least a dozen times since and as I said nothing I do to it seems to help in any way. So, Please, I am open to any suggestions. Help!!!
  • I had this problem last August, 130650 miles. The dealer service dept replaced the ignition switch and it's been just fine ever since, but the diagnosis involved the technician referring to a "TAC case" to figure out the problem.
  • richardjewellrichardjewell Posts: 2
    edited February 2013
    Thank you. Ok. Replaced the ignition switch and it is still doing it. Suggestions anyone?
  • If you email me at chrisleb1@aol.com I can send you a scan of my repair sheet- it has some diagnosis on it.
  • tiny_bambitiny_bambi Posts: 14
    edited February 2013
    I had a 1998 Pontiac Trans sport but salvaged it in Oct 2012. over 100,000 miles on it and found oil in the radiator this time. It was her time. Wow I had never had stalling issues with the van though. That can be scarey!! Have you checked fuel filter and the fuel pump? Almost sounds as if your not getting enough fuel pumped up to the engine. Could be that or the fuel injectors are in need of cleaning or replacement and or the fuel pump/filter.
  • bighank1bighank1 Posts: 9
    Saw a vacuum line hanging down underneath at left rear at very back of the Montana. It is a single line going forward but splits to 2 lines which are about 5" long. Line is about 5/16" or so and is deteriorated. Is raining cats and dogs here so I didn't jack up the van or crawl under to determine where the line came from or why it is split into a T near the back. It is near what I think is the pump for the inflatable shocks. When I changed the shocks about 2 years ago I remember hard plastic lines going to each of them not rubber hoses.
    Just pushed the dangling hoses up and over the electrical wires which are running along with the rubber hose.

    What is the line for and where does it connect in the back and further forward?
  • aitkenheadaitkenhead Posts: 12
    You are quite right, these lines are related to the air ride suspension. One of these lines you see goes to an air filter to prevent dirt, grit and water from entering the air compressor. This is probably the one that rotted. If your compressor still works, then it turns on and you can hear it when you turn on the convenience inflator feature inside the rear left of the trunk. If your compressor still works, repair the rotted lines quickly or the compressor will be ruined very soon. It happened to mine and I bought a used compressor on eBay.
  • bighank1bighank1 Posts: 9
    Catalyst Monitor not ready what do I need to do to get this emissions setting ready
    Have a CATALYST MONITOR setting for emissions not ready.
    99 Montana. What do I have to do to get this setting ready?
    Battery was disconnected and all other monitors have become ready but not the Catalyst Monitor. Have driven 100 miles and still not ready.
  • maddog0324maddog0324 Posts: 53
    It can take up to 40 consecutive warm-up cycles before the I/M is ready. Did you have any codes before the battery was disconnected?
  • bighank1bighank1 Posts: 9
    No codes before battery disconnected and no codes now hard or pending.
    No MIL or check engine light. EGR and evap are ready.
  • maddog0324maddog0324 Posts: 53
    Does your state's emissions check program require that all of the all I/M Monitors to be in a status of Ready or N/A in order for the vehicle to pass? A monitor status of 'Not Ready' means that the required driving conditions for that monitor have not been completed. Drive the vehicle as you normally would and it should set in a couple of weeks.
  • I have the same issues with my headlights. I have tried almost EVERYTHING to fix the problem. Please lemme know if you find a fix.
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