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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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  • js2157js2157 Posts: 1
    I HAVE RECENTLY BOUGHT A 1997 METRO, 4CYL, 3SP AUTO. IT HAS 59,000 MILES, RUNS TIGHT, NO LEAKS, AND VERY CLEAN. I RESEARCHED THE TITLE AND FOUND THAT IT WAS ONCE A RENTAL CAR. MY CONCERN IS THAT I BOUGHT THE CAR FOR A DAILY COMMUTE OF 110MILES ROUND TRIP, BUT AS MOST OF YOU KNOW THE 3SP AUTO MAKES THE CAR SOUND LIKE AN AIRPLANE TAKING OFF AT 65-70MPH. IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN DO TO LESSEN THE RPMS. I WISH IT WERE A 5SP. PS. THE FUEL ECONOMY HAS BEEN LESS THAN STELLAR ALSO 28-29MPG.
  • mkj1mkj1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Metro that is missing the fuse box cover and has no owners manual. I am having a fuse problem and I need to know what fuse goes to what item. Is there a diagram in the owners manual? Can someone send me a diagram to look at? Thanks!
  • I just got back from the sales lot of Enterprise and it was nothing but hassle and run around. They were going to show me a metro that was at one of their rental places but required a $500 deposit just to see the car. Then they lied about the miles and told me it had 20 but it was more like 30. Then they would not let me have the VIN number in order to trace the car. The guy told me some story about not giving out the VIN number because it could be wrong and he did not want to misquote the number. I told the guy that I could go and get the VIN number off any car in the lot or for that matter any mall and he again insisted on $500.

    But that is not the best part. I thought that I might and go rent the car, after all it is a rental right? Well he refused to tell me the location. It is in the same city as the sales lot. He said that it may be rented out or that it may be somewhere else. The man thought I was crazy for wanting to look at a car before giving him a check for $500.

    Ok here is the grand finale. Then I got curious and asked to see what my check would be attached to in order to see if it was possible to get my money back out of the dealership. He said sure no problem and then gave me a contract. He gave me an order form for the car and asked me to sign it. I was like NO. I told him that I was not signing a contract and that that document would hold up in court. He said that it would not hold up in court because a "real contract" for a car is in triplicate. How ridiculous is that? By the way I have one year left in law school and I have the UCC on hand. My wife just said lets go.

    Avoid them like the plague. The classic bait and switch. Take the deposit and then suddenly the car is sold and you are stuck.
  • I too have an automatic Metro.
    Believe me, I wish there was an overdrive switch you could engage at highway speeds.
    I don't know anything that might help (buy the biggest tires you can!).
    Your mileage is about right. I know there have been times I wondered if the darn thing shifted into 3rd or stuck in 2nd gear.
    Tom
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    pgee,

    If you are looking for a Metro try:

    http://www.traderonline.com/

    Just plug in your search parameters.
  • fastgti1fastgti1 Posts: 3
    Hey everyone, for some wild Swifts and Metro's check out http://swiftgti.cjb.net

    Also does anyone know what the axle ratio's of the '89-'94 metro's are ? or the '95-'00's ?

    thanx

    Steve
  • fastgti1fastgti1 Posts: 3
    Hey everyone, for some wild Swifts and Metro's check out http://swiftgti.cjb.net

    Also does anyone know what the axle ratio's of the '89-'94 metro's are ? or the '95-'00's ?

    thanx

    Steve
  • gm1994gm1994 Posts: 3
    Tom -- Thanks for the message. I don't worry too much now that it had been going around 4k+ rpms for so long, although our other car rarely goes above 3k, making it a reminder that the Metro is a
    motorcycle with a shell :-) And the noise confirms this ... I also wish that they'd add an OD 4th gear to it.

    As for gas mileage, I once went back home (Northern NJ) from the US/CAN border with a single
    tank of gas (however small the tank is). That should have given me about 35-38mpg or so (all highway). Now the exciting part of the story: the fuel gauge was at the bottom when I was about 50 miles from home, but I went on with the belief that there was a "fuel low" warning light -- there wasn't one on the Metro '94! Of course if you pump as soon as the gauge hits bottom, you are only able to add some 8.5gals.
  • mznmzn Posts: 727
    Friends, inuvik's post #189 is hidden above because the length of the url skewed our screen size. To read it, just click on Hidden. Thanks!

    carlady/host
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Hey all,
    I test drove a 2000 Suzuki Swift a few days ago and was quite impressed with it. The dealer was advertising it for 7990 but it had no air and no stereo. I was very impressed with how thick and solid feeling the doors were. They closed with a solid thunk with no rattles, unlike Saturns costing thousands more. However, the hood felt ridiculously light and thin and both the hood and the hatch closed with a cheap tinny sound effect. Going down the road, the car felt more susbstantial than it looks or its size would suggest. The car seems to be very solid and well made.
    The 79 horse 16 valve engine shocked me with how much pep it had (it was a stick). It is a very responsive and quick to accelerate engine. I was also impressed with how quiet the engine was at both idle (barely noticed the car was running) and under hard acceleration. It was much quieter then the Kia Sephia I drove. However, the clutch would not fully engage till the top of the pedal travel and it felt a bit weak. That worried me a bit and caused me to drag the clutch more than I should.
    It has a nice looking dash design, though it is made of some rather shiny cheap looking plastic. I was disappointed that the car had no tachometer, because according to Edmunds, it is supposed to be standard on the Swift. And why can't Suzuki make the bumpers body colored like the Metro Lsi??? It would make the car look so much better.
    Anyways, those are my thoughts on the Swift. I think it is a well designed, solid car that does not deserve the cheap junk label it has been given. If only I had some car credit under my belt, cause than I probably would have driven the car home after they installed AC in it (in Florida, u NEED ac). Oh well, guess I will have to wait a bit longer to buy my first new car.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    The GA model is what you drove. You'll notice it is listed as standard in the GA, but the GL (with cassette and AC) is the only Swift with it standard. The Swift is an excellent deal, if it is new at $7990, they can add AC for about $800. Don't let them tell you otherwise, because the parts kit is less than $600. Also, the GL model lists at $1000 more than the GA and it has AC AND cassette standard. The tach is one reason I think the Swift GL is a great buy.

    Enterprise dealers are terrible. Their Metros are OK. Mine was an Enterprise rental car at one point, the original owner was Enterprise Leasing. That is a tip that it was a rental. That and the green e under the hood and on the hatch (since removed).

    Hertz and Budget are no better. I worked at a Budget Car Sales for a week, couldn't stand it. They have almost no money in their cars because they made so much renting them, and they still ask above retail for them. A 1999 Metro sedan is worth about $6000-$7000, and they ask $9995. Then they add a Gold Seal (a coat of wax) and charge $499 for it. It's ridiculous. The best place to buy a Metro or Swift is from the owner, a repo auction (if you're careful), or salvaged and rebuilt. I wouldn't spend $12,000 on a new one, but I would be happy to spend $5000 on a 2-year old model, and that's what they are worth used. I think they're great cars, but there is no reason to spend oodles of money on a new one when a used one is exactly the same car for thousands less.
  • Hi all

    I own a 1999 Metro LSi Coupe--I was wondering if anyone has ever had these problems before:

    1) Speedometer needle wiggles at speeds between 20 and 45 mph at constant speeds.

    2) The sealant (urethane or some black sticky guck equivalent) seeps from the top of the front windshield and especially a lot from the top, bottom, and sides of the rear back window. The sealant seeps out from between the rubber seal and the glass.

    3) A clicking, rattling, knocking, snapping, puffing noise is heard coming from both rear left and rear right wheel area.

    4) The key is hard to insert in the driver/passenger doors. The key becomes jammed during insertion.

    5) Uneven wearing patterns on all tires, which I first noticed at approximately 1,500 miles.

    6) The vehicle pulls to the right while driving and accelerating.

    I have had repairs after repairs and nothing has worked. The Repairing Dealership not only tried to fix some problems but they made them even worse.

    Is it just me or did I truly get a Lemon?
  • esimpsonesimpson Posts: 2
    My wife has a 1994 Metro, 5 speed. We have some strange problems with uneven wear on the tires - not the bottom - the sides. Whole chunks of rubber fall off the inside sidewalls. Very strange. We keep failing inspection every year because of it and buy new tires. Fortunately, the tires are cheap, which is also what I suppose is the problem.

    As far as the speedometer - her car's speedometer is never right. Always 10 to 15mph off. Has been since day one. Repair shops want alot of money to fix it, so we said forget it.

    You're pulling problem may be a simple alignment issue. Has it been aligned? Also, there is a decent amount of torque-steer when you accelerate which could add to the pulling.

    Try WD-40 in the lock to loosen things up. Worked for us.

    We don't have sealant problems.

    Personally, I can't stand the car. You can't safely take it on the highway when it's very windy, its a nightmare in the snow - those tires get trapped in ruts and pull the back end all over the place, it's loud, handles awfully - body roll is almost frightening, people are always cutting you off (piece of crap car factor), I am afraid to even imagine what will happen in a side impact....I can go on and on.

    Bottom line, we're dumping the car and buying a PT Cruiser (assuming we can actually find one).
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    Did you buy your car new or used? If you bought it new that way and have never been in an accident, then I would say you have a lemon. If you bought it as a dealer demo or as a used car with low mileage, then I would say it had been wrecked and poorly repaired (or it's a bought-back lemon). The window sealant and the tire wear and the pulling would confirm that. If you did buy it used or as a dealer demo, the speedometer thing might confirm a rollback. A demo with 400 miles is worth more than a used car with 4,000 or 14,000.

    My 1995 Metro has 112K now and it's speedometer does something different...it is sticky...you accelerate and it the needle takes a second to catch up. The tire wear problem means you need an alignment...another clue the car may have been wrecked at some point.

    I have seen 1998-1999, even some 2000 Metros at insurance salvage yards, totaled out, and it is quite possible if you bought your Metro used or as a demo, that it was a total loss at one point. One more reason to run a Carfax on your car before you buy it (unless you buy it for less than $1500 or so).

    My 1995 Metro was never a total loss but it had been wrecked before and is currently damaged now, and I will be installing my own headlights and hood. There is no frame damage so I'll do the parts changing myself.

    If your 99 Metro has over 60K, you may need new rear struts. Otherwise the noise may be related to the brake shoes, which are made of sandpaper. The brake hardware is comprised of folded tissue paper, therefore it may have failed by now. And I have installed all new Bendix parts back there to make those rear brakes semi-effective. I recommend same. You can get them at Western Auto and Parts America store. Seriously, the standard OEM brakes are of poor quality.

    The key thing is normal for Suzuki products. A little lock lubricant (WD-40, graphite, whatever) will help a little, but having new keys made from the locks, not from the keys themselves, may help. Should cost about $45-$60 for a locksmith to make you a fresh key.

    Lemon laws are different in every state, so check with your local library to see what you can do. Also look on the net, since you're here. If you have had the same problem repaired several times, or you have a safety issue (the pulling and the tire wear could count if they could cause an accident), you can go that route. Try another Chevy dealer, don't tell them you have been elsewhere, just tell them what problems you are having and see what they can do. Drive 100-200 miles if you have to. Also you might wish to have an independent mechanic try to work on it, it will cost you money, but it might fix your troubles.

    I'll trade you my 1995 Metro LSi hatchback, air and automatic, red on gray, with 112K, and it'll be fixed soon. I'll trade you for yours, put in a little cash (not too much, remember I'm buying a lemon!) and you'll have a good Metro.

    Good luck and come back for more help if you need it!

    Alan Moore
    '95 Metro LSi hatchback
    '92 Dynasty LE sedan
    '89 Tercel coupe ($300 car)
  • rvgaryrvgary Posts: 1
    Anyone looking for a Great tow car, "Toad" ( Car to tow with RV. The GEO (stick Shift) Makes a good one. Tow Four down. , Real light, took 1/2 MPG off my mileage on the RV with a ford 460.
    Ours is a 92 Metro 4 door.
    Love it,
    Gary
  • cinemafiacinemafia Posts: 57
    My wife has had her '99 Metro base model coupe for over a year now and she's had one of your problems------->

    #3 - The noises coming from the rear wheels began to occur around 7-8 months after pruchase. It was determined by the dealer mechanics to be the rear struts, which were not neccessarily faulty but wore down with wear. They were covered under warranty but the parts took over a week to come in. Eventually they were replaced without issue and we were happy.

    One would think that the rear struts of any car should not be worn down to failure after only 7-8 months of normal daily driving. However, this is not a condition of being a lemon, but the combination of 1) cheap parts being used in the ultra-economy metro and 2) the ridiculous road conditions in L.A.

    As for the rest of your problems some seem related to your car needing an alingment (the tire wear and the pulling to one side) while the rest seem unique. Still, seeping sealant and fuzzy needles, while nuisances, aren't threatening the life of your car.

    You have to take a broad general view of the Metro. It's probably the least expensive vehicle sold in the U.S., next to the Daewoo Lanos and the Hyundai Accent. It's a very dependable car that has been built by Suzuki and sold by GM alllll the way back to the time when Chevy packaged it as the "Sprint" in the early 80's. The tiny 1 liter 3 and 1.3 liter four cylinder engines can live increadibly long lives on low amounts of gasoline and maintenance. And above all else you have to remember in this industry, you get what you pay for.
  • I had a brand new 1991 Metro and had tire noise after a few months. The noise sounded like I had truck tires that would have a distinct "moan" when moving at highway speeds. When I examined the rear tires, I saw that they were wearing funny. The treads "feathered" and did not follow the smooth circumference of the tire.
    I later found out it was because the factory Goodyear Invicta's were horrible! The mechanic blamed it on the back end being so light.
    I switched over to Michelins. On the 1994 and earlier models (12" tires), go to Sears and ask for "Sears Michelins" because Michelin dealers don't carry 12" tires. Man, that stopped that problem but quick. I had over 125,000 miles on Michelins and they haven't given me a bit of problem. Now I just bought a 2000 Metro LSi Hatchback and gave it a set of Michelin Symmetry tires. Runs great!
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    Those tires are available even at Wal-Mart and they are excellent tires, also very cheap. Wal-Mart mounts and balances and gives you a road hazard warranty for $9.76 per tire. The Symmetrys in 155/80R13 size are about $30 each plus mounting, so for under $200 you get four new 80,000 mile tires. Then you can take it somewhere to have it aligned.

    Wal-Mart also sells Goodyear Viva radials and those are decent tires...the 155/80R13 size is $24 per tire plus mounting, so you can have a set of new tires for about $150.
  • rsb66rsb66 Posts: 1
    I bought a new '93 Metro Hatchback 5sp stick. Not that it was my first choice of a new vehicle. I didn't even know about Metros before that day. Wandering around the dealers lot looking for an inexpensive vehicle with great gas mileage, I saw the car sitting all by itself and asked the salesman what it was. He ignored my question and promptly started showing me a Hyundai Excel. After balking at the Excel I again asked him about the car standing all by it's lonesome. He finally agreed to show me. As I walked up to the window sticker and noticed the 50mpg est. hwy mileage and the 6k price, I said I'll take it now. What could I lose. That afternoon I drove away in it. Well, after 7 years and 200k miles, I feel I have gotten my money's worth of this little 3cyl. The car provided me with very good mileage as advertised and very low maintenance until now. Though horsepower and road respect was needless to say very much lacking, I managed to overlook the inconvenience of having to yield to even bicyclists passing me on the right (not that bad!) and trucks blowing be aside. Shifting from first to second never got me out of the intersection but what could someone expect from a motor of this size. The poor over overworked engine is now begging me to put it out of it's misery. The mileage is cut in half and it sounds like my lawn mower. I have nothing but good words for a car that has been good to me. I'm going to miss the little roller skate and hope that my next vehicle, whatever it may be, provides me with the same reliability as this one did.
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