Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevrolet/Geo Metro

1131416181961

Comments

  • geo2356geo2356 Posts: 4
    Yes that explains why the burn out, I wonder though is there anyway now for me to protect my 92 convertible since it has got 84,000 miles already? If I keep the oil up will that protect it from burning out that valve? Another thing they guy that mentioned the loss in power....now that he mentions that I do think my other 1990 Metro was faster than this convertible how would I check and see if the valve was already burned out..or how would i know what are the signs? Anyway thanks for the information.....anyone notice that the 1999 Metros are quite a bit faster than the 1997? My mother has a 1999 sedan and that car can out run my 97 Coupe anyday and they are both automatics and 4 cylinders..
  • Do a compression check. Your cylinders shouldn't be more than 14.2 PSI apart from each other. If you're not sure, tell your mechanic you would like to do a compression check for a burnt valve. If that is ok, your loss of power might be a bad catalytic converter. When they get a lot of miles on them they tend to get plugged up (It happened to me). When it was replaced it was like a new car!
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    I agree you should check the catalytic converter. If it gets plugged or starts to restrict, it will cause the exhaust valves to get too hot and it will burn the valves. I had a converter plug at about 150K and it caused my valves to burn. But you never know, so it never hurts to have it checked out. A shop or exhaust shop should be able to check your exhaust temps and O2 levels. If your temps are too high, then you might have a restricted converter or burnt valve.
  • ltk_akltk_ak Posts: 1
    I just bought a 95 2-door Metro Lei and am getting between 35-37 mpg for city driving. I used to own a 91 Metro which seemed to get better mileage. The car only has 6,000 miles on it and is in incredible shape but I would like to up the mileage... any suggestions would be appreciated.
    I also have to agree with the rest of the posters.. love my Ego!!! After my 91 died after 126k miles I regrettably leased a 97 S-10. I finally finished the lease and happened upon a 95 psi last month and driving it felt like putting on an old pair of shoes. I can't say enough about my Metro and am upset that they are no longer being produced.

    Thanks,
  • truckdude1truckdude1 Posts: 88
    we have never riden or drive a metro, they sound like they get ok milege right?Do you think the 4 door would suite two adults and keep up with city traffic easily?on the freeway we tend to acclerate quickly but always keep it under 85, the toyota corolla suits us, but its cost is too high. we would like something reliable and cheap enough.would you say this is our decision?how quick are they? we don't get much advice on them..but the corolla can get up to 85 with its small 125 horsepower engine, is it true the metro has 157 horsepower, we heard it from our neighbors,but highly doubt..it can you please respnd asap..thanks
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    The Metro does not have 157 horsepower. They only have 79 horsepower! So, no, don't expect quick acceleration, especially if you want an automatic because it only has 3 speeds. 0-60 is in the 11-12 second range, about the slowest car you can buy today. The Metro is best suited for city driving, not highway driving above 70. I suggest you mark this car off your list because it doesn't seem to meet your needs at all.
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    I agree the Metro would not be appropriate for your type of driving. There is a reason why the Metro gets great mileage, small motor, light weight. Not the kind of car you want to battle it out at 80+ MPH.

    Although I do drive 122 miles round trip every day with most of the trip between 60-75 MPH that is pretty much the upper comfort limit of the Metro with the 5 speed. With the automatic it would be even lower with no overdrive.

    You might think about a Acura Integra 4dr. They get pretty good mileage around 30 MPG but have pretty good power. But they are spendy, even used. If you read some of the posts some people have gotten some awesome deals on used Metro's.

    So good luck on your search for a used car.
  • cjaccettacjaccetta Posts: 236
    If you're looking for a cheap set of wheels that sips gas try the Hyundai Accent. Definitely cheap, definitely a gas-saver, and definitely more HP than the Metro. I think the base Accent has 92 HP and the GS and GL model have 105. Check the Accent discussion and you'll find out what people are saying about them (generally positive comments). Supposedly a good value for a small car and probably a marginal step up from the Metro in terms of refinement.

    I try to keep my Metro off the highways as much as possible, but in NJ it is difficult. The Metro is a one-ton car in a two-ton world.

    Good luck with your buying process.
  • kks2kks2 Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Geo Metro 4 door Sedan. I recently discovered that there was rust on the inside chassis when I went to have my brakes worked on.

    My mechanic informed me that this was a design defect due to the water from the air conditioner hose blowing back on the inside chassis and causing rust. Has anyone had a similar problem?
  • cjaccettacjaccetta Posts: 236
    I'm starting to notice a problem with my 1993 metro. The driver's door is beginning to sag. It rubs a little on the bottom when closing/opening and appears to be offset slightly when looked at from near parallel to the car body.

    I've also been having a continuing problem with the driver's side window coming off the track. Could the two be related?

    Anyone else having a similar problem? Any ideas on how to fix? This is the first real trouble that Old Ruby has given me in seven years so I'm eager to find a solution.

    Thanks,
    CJA
  • s_owen_hs_owen_h Posts: 1
    Hey everyone I have a 1990 Geo Metro 3 cylinder, Its been sitting for a while but about a yr ago, the car took a while to get moving, n I mean you could almost have the pedal to the floor and it would barely move. n after about 6 weeks of that it started to smoke by the transmission n wouldn't move, figured I would ask if anyone had any ideas for me on it, whether its something else making it do that or go out n get a new transmission or rebuild it, cause I want to get it back on the road for my son, since it is very reliable car, it was for me. thank you
  • criewecriewe Posts: 1
    So I just bought my new 2000 Dark Green Metro for $8000 had only 8K miles AC, CD and tinted windows and I just got 44 mpg on the last tank and I'm loving this car.. Anyways I'm at the Burger King drive up when the lady in front of me driving an F150 with one of those stupid toppers decides she's not hungry anymore -- doesn't hear my horn cause she's got her radio blasting and doesn't see me.. Anyways now my hood is all screwed up -- I can't open it -- the bumper is all scratched and I'm afraid to drive it cause I think a bunch of radiator fluid or some type of fluid leaked out after she hit me. Anyways I got all her insurance info and hopefully the car will be brand new again shortly --

    So watch out if your behind a a pick-up truck or SUV type vehicle -- especially at the drive through!!
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    Don't be surprised if they try to low-ball you. Insurance Companies seem to think these cars are as worthless as the book values say they are. I recommend taking not only the insurance guy's appraisal, but also have a Chevy dealer look at the car. An appraiser once told me there was $2600 damage to my Metro but the Chevy dealer wanted $4300 to fix it. My claim was denied anyway, but $2600 wouldn't have fixed my car when I had it. All the damage to my car was the hood, headlights, radiator support, and little dents on each front fender. My airbags didn't go off, the bumper was untouched, but the damage was worth more than the car because at the time the value was $3500 for it was a 1995 with 105K. Be careful, and make sure to get other estimates besides what their appraiser offers.
  • blt1972blt1972 Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 94 Metro 3cyl with 77,000. Does anyone know how I can tell if the timing belt has been changed? Also, I seem to hear a slight whining (while idleing or driving) coming from under the back of the car. Is this indicative of a fuel pump going bad? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    I would imagine that the timing belt is the original one. I'm ashamed to admit it, but I've had a Metro with 175K that still had the original timing belt. The buzz or low level whine you hear is the fuel pump in the tank. It's pretty normal to be able to hear it at idle. My current Metro's pump is a little noisier than my previous one so they can vary a bit. If you want to change your timing belt you could but I'd wait for a few more miles.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    Different manufacturers give different mileages for timing belts. I try to buy cars with non-interference engines, like my 2.0L Colt Vista wagon. Its belt broke and didn't do a thing but cost me $211 to replace the belt and valve cover gasket. I believe the 3-cylinder Metro requires a change at 60K. The 4-cylinder if I remember is a 100K engine. So your car should have had its belt changed but 5 to 1 odds it was never done. People don't spend money on Metros like they would another car. It's sad, but true. I would have the belt changed at 80K, then again at 140K, and again at 200K. Because if you don't abuse the car, you'll be seeing 200K, no problem.
  • I have an opportunity to buy a 93 base metro, 3 cyl, manual 5 speed, with 120K miles. I know the mileage is a little high, but judging from the other comments in this forum, it looks like the Metro should be OK as long as it was cared for. Any comments on other repairs that might soon be needed? The seller mentions that he's replaced the timing belt and alternator.

    My main concern is with the transmission. I noticed during the test drive that I needed to "double clutch" to downshift into 2nd and 1st. Is this normal on the Metro? If not, does it indicate a major malfunction is in the works? I can live with double clutching if it's not a sign of a bigger problem down the road.

    Thanks for your comments!
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    I would definately stay away from this Metro unless you can pick it up ludicrously cheap <$400. Odds are the synchronizers are going bad and unless you want to dump money into getting a new tranny or finding one in a junkyard I'd steer clear of this one. I'm sure my fellow Metronians® will want to weigh in on this issue but a Metro with 120K and showing signs of major tranny problems is not good.
  • semahuecsemahuec Posts: 2
    Hi, everyone!

    Please help me.
    I leased this Geo Metro (1996) out from a local dealer for 1 month.
    Now, 1 week after I leased this, 'service engine soon' lights on.
    I don't know why and am not familiar with customs in US since I have been here in US for 2 weeks.

    I will bring this car to the dealer shop which is the lessor.

    I would like to ask you.
    1. What does it mean by "service engine soon."
    2. Do I have to pay some money for this problem.

    I won't forget your help in this country.
    Please, help me.

    Thank you in advance.

    Thank you.
  • dnicklesdnickles Posts: 3
    I have a '93 Metro with a 3 cyl. and a 5 speed that was my wife's; now that she is home with the kids, I'm using it for a commuter? Other than routine oil changes/brakes/tires/exhaust, what are the typical problems of these cars that I should be watching for? What is the average expected service life? the car currently has about 73k miles (mostly highway).

    There are several small problems which are minor inconvieniences... heater motor only works on high, drivers window doesn't roll up correctly (there's a triangular thing missing off of the door seal), speakers suck. But nothing of significance that would make me get rid of it any time soon.

    Over the years I've done all of the maintenance scheduled, but there is a lot that goes unsaid in the owners manual. When should the timing belt be changed? How much will this cost?

    It would almost seem that it would be easier for me to find an old '93 and buy it and strip it of parts (or put the ones I have on the new car) rather than buying new or salvaged parts/pieces as I go? any thoughts on this?
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    Well I almost had a major disaster but escaped with only a broken driver's side park light. Here is the link to view the damage.


    http://briefcase.yahoo.com/inuvik_nwt


    I would like to find a replacement. These park lights were originally off of a '89 Metro. They are clear with a small amber insert. Later models were all amber, which I don't think are as nice looking. So anybody out there have one to sell me (cheap of course)?


    I would have totalled the car if it would have had the standard 12" tires and wheels. Those 14" really saved me because I had to do a very sudden evasive move at almost 70 MPH to avoid someone that lost control of their vehicle in front of me.

  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Curiously, how did the light break? Also, how well did the Metro handle a sudden lane-change at that speed? Was it controllable or more sloppy?
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    Well there I am cruising along in my 122 mile a day commute driving in the left hand lane when all of a sudden a Chev Monte Carlo (looked like a early 70's model) comes out of nowhere and passes me in the center lane doing about 90 MPH. Just as he goes by me and gets 3 or 4 car lengths ahead of me he loses control (blown tire I think). His car acts like it has a anchor attatched to it and he's skidding and is right in front of me now in the left lane. No time to brake I steered hard to the right downshifted into 4th and floored it. I just barely made contact with his vehicle as I went by and broke the driver's side park light. I didn't even know it until I got home.
    Scary stuff but with those 14" rims the only thing that limits you in the corners is your sanity. I have never been able to get my Metro to break loose on dry pavement. My nerves run out long before the limits of the tires do.
    But when the roads are wet, oh my goodness is my Metro dangerous! Not enough weight to make the car stick to the road. You have to drive like you fear for you life when it's raining.
    If I had to do it over again I think I would go with 15" rims. Better tire selection with more appropriate tire height (185/60 HR14 are about 3/4" taller than the 155/12)
    Well, that's my scary story.
  • mpynempyne Posts: 120
    ive checked around and it seems like this is a fair price
    my car has 59,000 miles a dent on the rear quater panel and 2 chips in the windshield
    only repairs was to have part of the exhaust pipe replaced
    it seems like people here really like their metros (me included) so im sure everyone will give a positive opinion if my car is worth this much
  • misscmissc Posts: 1
    Hi. I'd first like to say that I have enjoyed reading these posts and they have been really insightful, and some comical. I am a college student going to school in Florida thinking about purchasing a used Geo Metro. My question is to those who own an automatic: how is it different and/or better (or worse) than a Geo with manual transmission. Any replies would be appreciated.
  • dnicklesdnickles Posts: 3
    I have a Geo with a 3 cyl. engine and a 5 speed and I love it (for commuting). Everyone I've talked to with manuals are the same; however those with automatics feel the car is WAY underpowered with the 3 cyl and auto. Maybe its that I live in an area with lots of hills and maniac drivers, I don't know. I do know that I realy like the pickup of the 5 speed.
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    I agree with dnickles, if you only drive around town and never drive on the freeway then the automatic might be OK. But basically I couldn't recommend the automatic to anyone, it's just way too underpowered. With the 5 speed it scoots along just fine.
  • I have a 1999 metro-3cyl/5spd with 43k. I recently took the car into the dealership to find out why my a/c unit no longer was blowing out cold air. I was expecting the problem to be a bad seal somewhere in the system. They looked it over from end to end, also running dye through it. They found no freon in the system, and no leaks. I don't get it. how do you lose freon with no leaks?I actually encountered this problem one year after purchasing the car and just now took it in to be looked at since air is not a absolute need for me. Are there any other metro owners who have come across the same problem? or know what could have caused this to happen. They recharged the system and it's now running fine again. Also, at 43k, is there any maintenance I should be performing on my trans at this time?. Other than my a/c,this puddle jumper has been running great with no other problems. So far, this has been one great commuter car for me. I have been getting 41mpg driving 60-65mph. Anything over 65mph and the engine sounds pretty stressed out. Power is not one of this cars strong points.I'm hoping that this vehicle will give me many trouble free miles.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    If your car was a 1993 or older Metro with R-12 in it, I wouldn't be surprised to see someone steal your freon. The only other thing I can think of is Neptune. Yeah, those crazy Neptunians stole your R-134a. They're too cheap to pay $12 a can to drink it. See the Neptunian people are so cold, they drink R-134a like it's hot coffee to them.
  • noname_17noname_17 Posts: 4
    Mine has done the thing with the freon too. I have a 99 with almost 36k and it started losing freon last summer. I have had it recharged 3 times now and still have found no leak, but it seems like this time it has lasted a lot longer, so I am hoping that it quit.
Sign In or Register to comment.