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Chevrolet/Geo Metro



  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    Has anyone ever tried to put 15" wheels on a metro? I have seen some 14", but never any 15". Just curious
  • alextalext Posts: 63
    I was asking the same question, just a few posts ago. It seems possible, because if you look at the stock 13" wheels, there's at least 2" of clearance around the tire, inside the wheel well, etc. And 15" wheels/tires would only need an additional 1" of clearance on all sides.

    No big deal if they don't, I'll just go with 14" since I can get them for the same price at Pep Boys.
  • cjaccettacjaccetta Posts: 236
    Looking for advice ASAP...
    I currently own a 93 Metro 2dr, and I'm thinking about buying a used Metro for my girlfriend, who needs to drive about 20 miles to work every day. Sadly, she is an avowed stick shift-hater and loathes my 5-spd.
    The car I'm considering is for sale by a private party and has auto, a/c and 109k on the clock. It looks to be about a 92 or 93 model. Asking price is $1300. Should I jump?
    I've had my Metro for over five years with absolutely no troubles. I think they're very study, no-frills cars. My question: how will one with 109k already on it hold up? She'll probably have to drive it daily for at least a year.
    Thanks in advance for any advice!
  • barry_jbarry_j Posts: 1
    I bought a 99 Metro about 1 month ago. I've put 3700 miles on it already, and where is that 47
    miles per gallon? The best I've ever gotten is
    42 and I drive ALL highway miles. 126 of them a day as a matter of fact.
    I thought when it got broken in it would get better, and at 3700 miles, it should be broken in.
    Anybody else go through this?
  • alextalext Posts: 63
    I know exactly what you're going through, Barry J.
    I have a new 99 Chevy Metro with the 1.0L 3-cylinder that is supposed to get 41/47 mpg but I get much less. I just got my second oil change yesterday, so at just below 6000 miles I figure my metro is pretty much broken in.
    Now let me tell you about a trip I took over the weekend to San Diego. From L.A. San Diego is 127 miles, and over the entire weekend I racked up 486 miles there and back with more than half of them highway miles. I filled up twice with 87 octane as I always use, and yet after doing all the math I found out that I had only reached 36.3 mpg! That's below the reputed city mileage, and I did most of my driving on the highway!
    Now, my only explanation for this is that I was doing an average of 75 mph on the highway, which is fast for a car with a top speed of 90, and the combined weight of myself and my girlfriend is 455 lbs, plus our luggage makes 500. Add in the times when I had to go all the way down to first gear to get up some steep hills in San Diego, and maybe it makes sense, but it's still off of what I would expect to get.
    Now, I know 36 mpg is very good mileage compared to most cars, but I was really hoping to get at least 42-45. I'm thinking about getting a K&N air filter, but I'm having a hard time finding one for a Metro. Anybody out there have any other suggestions to improve the feul economy?
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    Advance the timing 5 degrees
  • alextalext Posts: 63
    Good how do I do that?
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    you guys are '95 is an automatic (97K and still kicking and for sale for $2800 to buy another) and I get 29mpg in town with the air on and the best I ever got in winter (air off) from Columbsu to Indianapolis was 35.5mpg. I drive slow...maybe 55-60 even in 65 zones...this automatic SCREAMS at highway speeds.

    I don't think you can mess with timing without removing and improperly reinstalling the timing belt. Personally a freer flowing exhaust and a better intake would help...

    Speaking of...there is NO K&N filter to fit the "ribbed Frisbee" type air cleaner. Now that is for the 4-cylinder '95. I haven't looked for a 3-cylinder air cleaner but I will if I get the '99 that I want (base with AC, cassette, tach, 5-speed, silver, there are 44 available exactly like that across the country in that color and 4 are at Blossom in Indianapolis)
  • zca3zca3 Posts: 2
    here's my 2 cents worth...

    about a year ago i was looking for a cheap reliable car for my 130-mile round trip drive to work, I went to a Chevy dealer with a small pickup in mind but as i wandered the lot i noticed the metros. I test drove a 5 speed and liked it right away, because it was easy to handle, easy to park, wouldn't get stolen, gets good mileage, and i like sticks,but my wife was worried that it was too small and unsafe. I found a new 96 leftover (in June 98!!) that hadn't sold yet. no air, no nothing (it has a radio). The dealer told me to make an offer, I offered 1500 below sticker and he gave it to me off the bat, plus 2 rebates (college grad and manufacturers)! (maybe i could have done better...)
    so i got a new car for 7000

    the very next day, we were in the metro coming home from the store and some kid in a jeep runs a stop sign---smack! no one was hurt, thank god, and the damage was minimal (new bumper and bumper cover, courtesy of this jerk's mommy)

    about three months later, i was on my way home from work on 287 (N.J.) and again, some kid in a jeep cherokee (ON A CELL PHONE!!!!!!) smacks into me at about 35. again no one was hurt and all my car needed was, guess, a bumper and bumper cover (courtesy of his insurance), but his front end was bashed in and all the lights and the grille were broken.

    i've got the car for sale because i do feel i need something safer and bigger (anyone in NJ driving 130 miles on the parkway and 287 everyday would agree) but with ads in the papers and on the web i haven't had one call yet....i guess i'm keeping the car.

    btw, saturn offered me in trade 3500 LESS than what i owe the bank

    be careful out there........
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    Alex Travanti:
    To advance the timing you will need a timing light. Any old run of the mill timing light will do. Hook the timing light up, one lead goes to positive 12v power source (battery), one lead goes to ground (battery) and the third lead that looks like a large clip goes over cylinder #1 plug wire. No #1 cylinder is the one closest to the pulleys on the engine. Do not unplug the plug wire from the engine. Just clip this big lead around the plug wire.
    Find your distributor on the engine. You will see on bolt along the side the distributor cap, I believe it is a 12mm. With the engine cool loosen that bolt, do not remove it!!. Re-tighten it barely more than hand tight. Start your engine and let it warm up. Once it has reached normal temp turn off all accessories (fan, headlights, a/c) and continue to let idle.
    With the engine running point the timing gun at the bottom pulley and squeeze the trigger. The timing light will begin to flash in conjunction with the spark going to the #1 cylinder.
    A mark will be visible on this pulley while the gun is strobing. Loosen the distributor bolt again so that you are able to twist the distributor with a small amount of force. The distributor should not be floppy loose. It should be loose enough that in order to twist it there is a small amount of resistance to overcome.
    With the engine still running squeeze the strob light trigger and point it at the bottom pulley. A mark will appear on the the pulley everytime the timing light strobes. You will also see a metal tag or some other indicator that usually has a range of numbers. Usually from 0-15 with graduated marks in between. Whatever number the mark on the pulley matches up to while the engine is running is your degree of timing advancement.
    So if the mark is aligned with 0 then your timing is Top Dead Center (TDC). If your mark is aligned with the 2 then your timing is 2 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) and so forth. If the number is aligned with a negative number -2 then your timing is After Top Dead Center (ATDC).
    While continuing to squeeze the timing light twist the distributor cap ever so slightly clockwise. You will notice that the mark will move in relation to the numbers. Keep twisting the distributor while checking the timing.
    So if you started with +2 continue until you are at +7. Or if it was 0 you should continue until you are at +5. You should notice a increase in idle speed. This is normal.
    Tighten the distributor bolt (not too tight, they really don't have to be that tight) and drive around. You should notice a increase in power and more eagerness to rev.
    If the engine is pinging (spark knock) when you accelerate or driving then you have only a couple of choices. You must either run higher octane fuel, reduce the timing advancement (smaller number), or install colder range spark plugs.
    If your engine is pinging you MUST make changes so that is does not. Spark knock will destroy a engine if it is severe enough. It will burn holes right through pistons.
    So it will require a small amount of experimentation on your part to find what timing setting is best for your engine. For example on my metro it is set at +12 degrees. But I also run 91 Octane and spark plugs that are 2 heat ranges colder than standard.
    You should find that your mileage will improve, your performance should improve. I know that this is kind of a wordy reply but it is important to do this carefully. If you find that there is no benefit or the engine just pings all of the time no matter how little you advance the timing, just set it back to your orignal setting and you're no worse for the wear. But I've never seen a engine yet that won't take +5 advancement from factory settings.
    You have to remember that they are set from the factory to run on the lowest grade fuel possible and then detuned slightly. So try it, or have a friend help with you. It won't take that long once you've done it once. Less than a minute once your figure it out.
    Hope this helps: Inuvik
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    Hmm...that won't work, man. The distributor on my '95 is on the end of the camshaft (that's where the plug wires come out of) and the coil is on the firewall. The timing is non-adjustable (see the label underhood and I asked my mechanic too) and computer controlled. This car has what is known as DIS. Distributorless Ignition System. That "distributor" is merely a big coil pack for distributing the ignition spark. If you advance the timing by say, turning the camshaft afew degrees, the computer will not advance timing AT ALL under any circumstances and most likely the engine won't even start or will run very poorly.
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    You are absolutely correct, I wasn't aware when or if Geo went to distributerless ignition. You are also correct that there really isn't much of anything you can do to it.
    All I know is that my 1989 Geo still has a distributor. My guess is that the change was probably made sometime around 1994.
    My fault for not qualifying the information that I posted.
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    Has anyone seen anything on the internet for Metro performance parts. I am in the process of retiring my '89 Metro with a '90 Metro. Since my '89 will be a spare I thought it would be a blast to goof around with it and try to squeeze some extra ponies out of the 1.0 liter. Nitrous anyone?
  • alextalext Posts: 63
    Hey, I'm looking myself. Unfortunately there's not much. The Suzuki Swift GT/GTi, which is basically a geo metro with a 1.3L twin cam, does have a number of performance parts, but I guess no company is willing to sell parts for such a small engine as the one litre since most people who drive them have speed as the last thing on their minds. The best you can do is a get a K&N air filter, a heavier-flow muffler and exhaust tip or try the timing fix from a few posts back (since it is a '90, as we have now determined to not have DIS). You might be able to pull 70 hp out of the metro if you're lucky. I really don't think it could handle NOS...but heck, you don't have much to lose if it blows up!
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    They scribbled my post so since I don't know what that means, I'll type it again.

    A local speed shop which caters shall I put this...young males with nothing better to do with $15K then spend it on a 10-year-old Civic Si...has parts for Geo Metros and Suzuki Swifts. But the throttle bodies and other parts they have fit only the Twin Cam 1.3L engine. Which means you must have a 1998 or newer 4-cylinder LSi Metro or a Swift to use them. I think a 1996-1999 Taurus SHO spolier would look good on the top of the hatchback. I also know 175/70R13 tires fit fine, and larger 185/65R14 tires should also fit if you get 14" wheels. My favorite (on the Tire Rack) is the Borbet Type M. I like the look of doubled 5-spokes. You can get a 2.5" exhaust made for your car with one of those Maxwell House sized chrome tips. You could get your car lowered 1-2" for I say "aggressive" stance?

    Thanks Maureen, I feel more creative now.
  • mznmzn Posts: 727
    Thank you very much, occupant1! ;-)

  • romicvaromicva Posts: 6
    Help! My Geo Metro91 started to give me troubles. Can't use AC 'cause fan stopped working. (I leave in VA). Checked power on the connector that goes into the blower motor - nothing is there. Checked all fuses that could find - all are fine. For some reason there's no power on the motor when tirn the fan on. :-(
    Maybe some relay is dead. Any ideas will be welcomed. Thank you all in advance.
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    I found a interesting company that converts geo metro motors to aircraft motors for ultralights. They have a bunch of different HP version and claim 85+HP in their turbo model. They also offer parts for the do it your selfer.

    Take a look. I'm interested in the headers right off the bat.
  • would the 3cyl engine stay together if i put sunoco racing fuel in it? There's a station in my hometown (next to the racetrack) that sells it. It's quitea bargain at only $4/gallon.
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    I'm assuming that the Sunoco fuel is 105+ Octane correct? If you have a metro with a distributor you should be able to crank up the timing advancement to somewhere around 15-17 degrees BTDC.
    Now one word of caution, if you do this make sure that you install spark plugs that are at least 1 heat range colder, preferably 2 heat ranges colder or you will melt the spark plugs rather quickly.
    If your metro has distributorless ignition system I do not know the upper limit of advancement the computer will allow. I still would install colder spark plugs. Otherwise you are going to have a meltdown.
    I would also add 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel tank before filling up with the racing fuel. This will help keep the valves cooler and better lubricated because the outer edges are going to get mighty toasty with that much advancement.
    I mean what the heck, I'd try it.

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