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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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Comments

  • gagewsgagews Posts: 3
    I'm ordering a manual, but does anyone know how to disable the passanger side air bag? '97 Metro..

    Thanks.
  • ajb4ajb4 Posts: 11
    Try a hatchet.
  • gagewsgagews Posts: 3
    Hatchet no workie
  • dcb111dcb111 Posts: 1
    I've always owned cheap little compact cars. couple of years ago I was looking for some parts for my 1988 Chevy Sprint and found 2 other Chevy Sprints exactly like mine in a junk yard. Between the three cars I was able to piece together a very reliable nice-looking little car. I discovered how cheap the engines are to purchase from Japan. You can buy a used engine for the Sprint or metro with 30-50,000 miles for around $500. Then I came across a 1992 Geo metro convertible in my local newspaper and was able to buy if for$300. Of course the engine was blown but the body was in really good shape so I bought a re manufactured engine installed for $1500. I have about$2000 invested in the car and I love it. It runs and looks brand new. Yesterday I was approached buy another metro fan that offered me $3,800 for it. I should sell it and make a profit but I just can't part with it.
    I was wondering if anyone has any information on the convertibles. Like their history and when they were last made. I don't see many like mine.
  • geo2356geo2356 Posts: 4
    I was responding you one of the messages about the Geo Cd/cassette player, They are excellent sound systems I looked for one for my 97 Metro for over a year and then I found one on ebay for 189.00, at first I was thinking i was crazy for paying that much for an oem system but once I installed it I knew that I had made a great deal, they are 650.00 at the Chevrolet dealership.
  • geo2356geo2356 Posts: 4
    The Metro Convertible was made from 1990-1993. While the rest of the Metro line-up was being made in Canada the Convertibles were still being imported from japan, Ive heard that in a few years they will be worth a good bit of money thats why I plan to hold onto my 1992 convertible as long as possible.
  • geo2356geo2356 Posts: 4
    Ive just joined this message board tonight and I was wondering If maybe someone could help me out with a question? Has anyone else had any head/valve probelems with there Metro's? Ive got two 1990 Metros one four door and the other two doors but both of them lost compression due to valve problems according to my local mechanic, I thought you unusual considering that ive taken such care of the two door and it still died with 101,000 miles, then I bought the four door and after a month the exact same thing happened to it? I thought that maybe since I had both of mine to do this that it was a common problem with these cars? I also have a 1997 Metro LSI coupe which is a great car I would never part with it and I have a 1992 Metro Convertible LSI with 84,000 miles.....I noticed this 1992 Metro has alot of loud tapping, I pray it isnt the valve thing again because I just bought this for 1800.00 and I would hate to see that much money go up in smoke like that, its bad enough I bought the four door for 500.00 and it died right off the bat like that..anyway if anyone knows anything about this problem or a way to prevent it let me know thats.
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    Unfortunately since a lot of Metro's haven't been properly maintained they have a tendency to burn the valves in cylinder #3 due to people letting the oil levels get too low and under higher rpm's the valves will starve for oil. Also the seal under the intake will sometime develop air leaks. Usually the sign of air leakage is a excessively high idle speed. The result of the air leak is a over lean condition which causes the valve to overheat and burn eventually.

    If you do get a burnt valve I would just replace the entire head. There are a few places that will exchange the entire head for only a couple of hundred bucks. I've done it and it's really a pretty easy job. Took me about a hour of actual time under the hood.

    You usually don't have to worry about the bottom end on Metro's. You have to remember the 1.0 3cyl and the 1.3 4cyl are the same motor except for the number of cylinders. So the crank bearings on the 1.0 are really oversized for the amount of displacement the engine really has. Of course this is the reason why the engine can go 250K+. Hope this helps.
  • Hi,
    I've bought a 1991 Geo Metro 3 cyl 5spd hatchback and it ran great up till around 68,000 miles.
    After that I noticed a drop in performance. I thought it might have needed a tune up. Until it couldn't pass the smog test.
    Turned out I had burned an exhaust valve. THAT was expensive! Other than that, they seem to run like a swiss watch. Very reliable.
    I had the 1991 till it had around 121,000 miles. Never replaced the clutch and only the brake pads once! After hearing GM was going to discontinue selling the Metro, I decided to buy the last year model and trade in my '91.
    I now own a 2000 Metro LSi w/auto trans, a/c, and EVERY available option that was offered! Even though it cries for a 4th speed overdrive, I can't complain. I love that car. The 4 cyl really adds more power. But you can't knock the great gas mileage of a 3 cyl manual.
    -Tom
  • geo2356geo2356 Posts: 4
    Yes that explains why the burn out, I wonder though is there anyway now for me to protect my 92 convertible since it has got 84,000 miles already? If I keep the oil up will that protect it from burning out that valve? Another thing they guy that mentioned the loss in power....now that he mentions that I do think my other 1990 Metro was faster than this convertible how would I check and see if the valve was already burned out..or how would i know what are the signs? Anyway thanks for the information.....anyone notice that the 1999 Metros are quite a bit faster than the 1997? My mother has a 1999 sedan and that car can out run my 97 Coupe anyday and they are both automatics and 4 cylinders..
  • Do a compression check. Your cylinders shouldn't be more than 14.2 PSI apart from each other. If you're not sure, tell your mechanic you would like to do a compression check for a burnt valve. If that is ok, your loss of power might be a bad catalytic converter. When they get a lot of miles on them they tend to get plugged up (It happened to me). When it was replaced it was like a new car!
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    I agree you should check the catalytic converter. If it gets plugged or starts to restrict, it will cause the exhaust valves to get too hot and it will burn the valves. I had a converter plug at about 150K and it caused my valves to burn. But you never know, so it never hurts to have it checked out. A shop or exhaust shop should be able to check your exhaust temps and O2 levels. If your temps are too high, then you might have a restricted converter or burnt valve.
  • ltk_akltk_ak Posts: 1
    I just bought a 95 2-door Metro Lei and am getting between 35-37 mpg for city driving. I used to own a 91 Metro which seemed to get better mileage. The car only has 6,000 miles on it and is in incredible shape but I would like to up the mileage... any suggestions would be appreciated.
    I also have to agree with the rest of the posters.. love my Ego!!! After my 91 died after 126k miles I regrettably leased a 97 S-10. I finally finished the lease and happened upon a 95 psi last month and driving it felt like putting on an old pair of shoes. I can't say enough about my Metro and am upset that they are no longer being produced.

    Thanks,
  • truckdude1truckdude1 Posts: 88
    we have never riden or drive a metro, they sound like they get ok milege right?Do you think the 4 door would suite two adults and keep up with city traffic easily?on the freeway we tend to acclerate quickly but always keep it under 85, the toyota corolla suits us, but its cost is too high. we would like something reliable and cheap enough.would you say this is our decision?how quick are they? we don't get much advice on them..but the corolla can get up to 85 with its small 125 horsepower engine, is it true the metro has 157 horsepower, we heard it from our neighbors,but highly doubt..it can you please respnd asap..thanks
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    The Metro does not have 157 horsepower. They only have 79 horsepower! So, no, don't expect quick acceleration, especially if you want an automatic because it only has 3 speeds. 0-60 is in the 11-12 second range, about the slowest car you can buy today. The Metro is best suited for city driving, not highway driving above 70. I suggest you mark this car off your list because it doesn't seem to meet your needs at all.
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    I agree the Metro would not be appropriate for your type of driving. There is a reason why the Metro gets great mileage, small motor, light weight. Not the kind of car you want to battle it out at 80+ MPH.

    Although I do drive 122 miles round trip every day with most of the trip between 60-75 MPH that is pretty much the upper comfort limit of the Metro with the 5 speed. With the automatic it would be even lower with no overdrive.

    You might think about a Acura Integra 4dr. They get pretty good mileage around 30 MPG but have pretty good power. But they are spendy, even used. If you read some of the posts some people have gotten some awesome deals on used Metro's.

    So good luck on your search for a used car.
  • cjaccettacjaccetta Posts: 236
    If you're looking for a cheap set of wheels that sips gas try the Hyundai Accent. Definitely cheap, definitely a gas-saver, and definitely more HP than the Metro. I think the base Accent has 92 HP and the GS and GL model have 105. Check the Accent discussion and you'll find out what people are saying about them (generally positive comments). Supposedly a good value for a small car and probably a marginal step up from the Metro in terms of refinement.

    I try to keep my Metro off the highways as much as possible, but in NJ it is difficult. The Metro is a one-ton car in a two-ton world.

    Good luck with your buying process.
  • kks2kks2 Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Geo Metro 4 door Sedan. I recently discovered that there was rust on the inside chassis when I went to have my brakes worked on.

    My mechanic informed me that this was a design defect due to the water from the air conditioner hose blowing back on the inside chassis and causing rust. Has anyone had a similar problem?
  • cjaccettacjaccetta Posts: 236
    I'm starting to notice a problem with my 1993 metro. The driver's door is beginning to sag. It rubs a little on the bottom when closing/opening and appears to be offset slightly when looked at from near parallel to the car body.

    I've also been having a continuing problem with the driver's side window coming off the track. Could the two be related?

    Anyone else having a similar problem? Any ideas on how to fix? This is the first real trouble that Old Ruby has given me in seven years so I'm eager to find a solution.

    Thanks,
    CJA
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