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Chevrolet/Geo Metro



  • I appreciate the response I've recieved so far on this a/c question. I agree that all I would of had to do was spend $12 to recharge the system and go on with life. Thats what I would have normally done. But what bugged me, was that the system lost all it's freon in only a one year period of time. That I believe by any standard, is unusual. I know that freon does lose it's efficiency over time and you need to recharge the system now and then. But in such a short period of time should raise a red flag and cause some concern. Is this R-134a gas weaker than it's predecessor?.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    R-134a does tend to leak out at a faster pace than does the R-12. I believe it has to do with the higher pressure that R134a is under and the difficulty the seals have keeping that high pressure gas contained. But still, it should not leak out completely after only a year. A recharge every 2-3 years would be more normal.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    have the expansion valve checked, maybe it is leaking the freon out, then when it unexpands, the system closes back up. The expansion valve I believe is located near the evaporator.
  • 96metro96metro Posts: 2

    I am looking for some aftermarket rims for my metro, prefferably 13" (so i dont have to worry about the speedo) but I cant find any nice looking ones.
    i need 13" 4 lug 4" from lug center to lug center

    will rims off a '91 civic fit my metro?
    please e-mail me @
    thanks Jeff
  • I have a '93 Metro that is in excellent mechanical condition. It has what I have seen referred to in this message board as an "electric carburetor."

    It runs fine for a month and then one day it stalls and quits and leaves me hanging, or I get in in the morning and it won't start. When I turn on the ignition I can hear the fuel pump pressurize the line. The engine turns over and it's getting big juicy sparks but it won't start. It appears to be flooding. Three times I've had it towed, and it starts just fine by the time it gets to the shop.

    The last time it quit in front of the house, I let it sit for a couple of days. It still wouldn't start but I squirted starting fluid in the so-called "fuel-injector" and kept cranking it and cranking it as it started to fire until eventually it continued to run on its own. Drove it straight to the shop and it started just fine the next time they turned the key. They drove it everyday for a week. "It starts just fine." Supposedly they've replaced all the sensors, checked all electrical connections, but it's all just to "do something" because they can't find anything wrong.

    I get it back home, drive it for a month and about the time I'm starting to rely on it again, it doe it again. It's "the car from hell." I'm ready to fire bomb it. It's sitting out front right now.

    Strong cranking. Big sparks. Won't start. Any clues?
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    Jeff, I believe the bolt pattern on your metro is 4X100mm. So if your civic has the same bolt pattern they should fit. But I would go with 15" rim. Although I've posted this link before here is the link to my Metro with 14" rims.

  • I just installed a set of Eagle Alloy rims on my '95 Metro. I kept the stock 13" size but went with a slightly wider/lower profile tire (165/70-13) in order to keep the gearing close to stock.

    Even this small change drastically improved the handling. Not to mention the appearance.

    And BTW the handling & ride of the '95 is light years ahead of my old trusty '91.

    The wheels are size 13X5.5, and have a 4-1/2" bolt circle. I believe all Metro's/Swifts have the 4-1/2" pattern. I just measured across the bolt holes on the stock wheels to make sure of this.

    Here is the link to the Type 024 Eagle wheel:

    HTH...........ed............'95 Metro Cpe 3-cyl 5-spd

  • baveuxbaveux Posts: 175
    I own a geo 97 hatchback 3 cyl,5 speed.Bought new in feb.97.
    I have now 65000 miles,90 % highway,I changed the rad last month and the exaust system 4 month ago after suffering exaust leak during last winter (was temporarely fixed).I believe that it is a little early ,what do you think ?
  • OK, it's been awhile since I've visited this board.
    I've heard a lot of negative info on the automatics for the Metro. I've had both 5 speed and auto and here's the main difference.
    The automatic isn't all that bad. True, it will rob the engine some power and gas mileage and make you feel like it needs another gear to shift up to when doing 65 MPH or higher, but for a 3 cyl engine- it's not too bad. I would recommend (if auto is what you want), the 1.3 liter 4 cyl engine on the 1995 and later models. I own a 2000 Metro LSi auto and it feels pretty peppy! It's not a road burner- but much better than the 1994 (1.0 ltr), and earlier models.
    Oh, one other thing. It is noisy. The engine does rev due to the 3 speed transmission. The plus is you have more torque (on the 1.3 ltr), and the car moves quite well for it's size.
    Before settling on a automatic Metro, check other cars that come close to it's size (Honda, etc.). You might find a car that can get better gas mileage for an automatic. Mine gets a ho-hum 28-30 mpg. Definitely a stock market crash from the manual 42 mpg. Why did I get it? I wanted a hatchback, in blue, with a tach (nobody else had one). Also- I've owned Metros before and they have been very reliable. When Chevrolet said 2000 was to be the last year for retail sales on the Metro- I ordered one fully loaded! Never have regretted it since. I'm a happy owner!
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Posts: 591
    Baveux, my '95 3-cyl 5-speed eats exhausts for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I'm on my 3rd muffler and 2nd cat. For the first 5 years of its life it was mostly an around town car and those short trips with lots of idling just had too much condensation in the exhaust I guess. Too bad the long emission system warrantly only applies to the original parts. I replaced the muffler just recently at Midas -- now my 1.0 litre engine car sounds like a performance Honda!

    Other than the exhaust work, it is a great car. It has never left me stranded once. With nothing but a bit of pipe it it really loud but I bet I got that 55hp engine up to 60 or 65hp with no exhaust on it ;-)

    It is my commuter car. I drive the snot out of it as my commute involves several turns out onto 80km/h roads (where people drive 100) so I usually shift at 4500RPM or higher but it still gets over 50mpg even driven like that.

    I just put new Michelin Rainforce MX4 155R13 tires on it and it handles much better now, no more squealing tires. Why did I leave those OEM Goodyear Invicta's on so long? Oh well, they're gone now...

  • steve109steve109 Posts: 13
    In response to msg #470 about the "Service Engine Soon" (SES) light, my 1996 Geo Metro
    with only 33K miles on it had the "SES" light come on, too. My Geo, it seems, doesn't
    like to sit out in the rain, so after a rainstorm, the light comes on when I drive it. I disconnect the positive battery cable, and that clears the "SES" light. Kind of "re-booting" the cars
    computer sensors. Give that a try.
  • sheliahsheliah Posts: 1
    I purchased a 1993 Metro recently for $800 with 141,000 miles. The car is in excellent condition, but has an A/C problem. The A/C works wonderfully when it wants (and if you don't mess with the on-off switch). The A/C will fade in and out before it stops working. I have had the freon check and it is okay. Does anyone have any idea on what will cause the intermittent non-function? If the car sits overnight after the A/C has stopped working it will work the next day. It has my husband pulling out his hair. The kids and I us it as our run around car and he doesn't like having to listen to them complain about being hot, "just because dad can't find what is wrong with it."
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    Discussion your problem with my father, he seemed to think that there may be a problem with the clutch on the A/C compressor. When the car is cold the compressor clutch engages but after it warms up it starts to slip. Have you ever smelled anything like burnt brake lining? Hmm, hope this helps
  • Has anyone heard of any Metro web pages where they would have various forums?
  • I was just curious on how many mpg other people are getting in their 95' and newer metro's with the 3-cy engine.
  • i have a 96 with the 3 cyl, i get approx. 57mpg highway 50-55 city
    203800k on the car
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Posts: 591
    In Canada we use imperial gallons which are a different size than US gallons so you have to be careful when comparing.

    I have a '95 3-cyl 5-spd Geo Metro. I am impatient and so are most of the people behind me so I usually drive the snot out of my car. The way to work is country roads with lots of pulling out from stop signs into fast traffic needing 4000-5000rpm shifting to avoid being rear ended. I still get about 5.5L/100km or so with all that revving, which translates to ~52mpg with our imperial gallons or around 43mpg or so with US gallons, if my calcs are correct. After years of driving like this, I still get what I consider to be very good mileage. The car still runs great, with only small things and brakes, exhaust and tires requiring replacement.

    There is the Chevy & Geo site, Membership costs money though and there isn't much there unless getting the membership shows you more.

    Maybe our host Revka would start up a Geo Metro club for us here on Edmunds.

  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    Good idea! I forwarded your message onto our Owners Clubs host (Karen). It may take a couple days to get your club started. Once it's up and running, perhaps you can spread the word about the Chevy & Geo Metro club here. Happy Motoring! ;-)

    Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
  • baveuxbaveux Posts: 175
    Hpulley in response to my post you stated that you already changed 3 exaust and 2 cat...I'm curious to know how much you paid for the Cat ?
    At canadian tire I can get the exaust pipe from the flange right (under the driver seat) including resonator and muffler for $105.00, but I'm afraid to hear how much it is for the cat ;-)
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Posts: 591
    Luckily I've only CHANGED 2 mufflers and 1 cat. I said I am ON my 3rd muffler and 2nd cat...

    Anyway, I got the pipe from the exhaust manifold to the cat plus the cat replaced at my GM 'Good'wrench dealer for about $400 Can$ including labour. They didn't do a great job initially, as it took several free adjustments to stop things from banging around under there but I guess the price wasn't too bad and overall my experience with exhaust work has now been that it takes many tries to get it right, no matter where you go. I can dig through my service receipts for an exact parts description and price if you are interested (they're in my glove box).
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