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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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Comments

  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    YOu can rebuilt the old engine. It is not expensive and you will have "good" engine for next 150000 miles.
    Let me know.
  • suppleesupplee Posts: 5
    I would rebuild it but the guy I got it from threw a rod threw the block. I can get a 92 motor from a friend for $30. and was thinking of just using the block and crank and rebuilding it. The other option is to buy one of these Japanese 45K mile motors for $450.00 and putting a new oil pump( needs hole for pick up for the 97 } on it. I was wondering if the 92 block would have all of the necessary holes that I would need to bolt all of my 97 motor parts to and are the import motors any good? What does that pick up under the oil pump do? there are 6 points on the crank timing gear that it reads.
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    I didn't rebuild any new Geo 3 cyl. Only up to 1994.
    Was I will do in your place?:
    1. Strip both engine
    2. find the diffrences
    It is simple engine, nothing special. You will see the diffrences.
    YOu can ask for the parts list from auto parts and compare.
    $ 30.00 is easy to spend. But $ 450.00, I will thnik first.
    Mark
  • crashpwcrashpw Posts: 3
    ok I'm new to this forum , the oil you should be using is 5w, and the reason is there is a report out on geo's that using a heavier oil will burn the valves up because it can't go through the lifter holes they are to small for heaver oil, I know this from experience to have a head redone cost around 400 bucks. also I'm looking for automatci transmission part, for my geo if anyone has a junk one let me know if you would THX and HI to everyone on here
  • I just gave away an automatic tranny to my mechanic. It is in perfect condition with less than 50 000 miles on it. I swear. Come and get it for next to nothing. I am in St-Ours, South shore of Montreal
    Vanilla Latte.
  • crashpwcrashpw Posts: 3
    LOL thats ok I will try someone closer to my house in Ohio USA
  • crashpwcrashpw Posts: 3
    The part I need for the trans is when you are looking at the front where the shaft goes in to the trans you have two parts bolted together and I need the back part, it has a chip out of the inner side closest to the shaft and its leaking fluid.
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    Please use Castrol or Penzoil 10/30.
    Where you are?
    If the climate is similar to Michigan use 10/30. In very cold weather close to 10 F or below used only 5/30 ( if really is cold). 10/30 works..
  • smoke76smoke76 Posts: 9
    I was just reading through all of the posts and have this to say; use synthetic oil, synthetic viscosity does not change to the extremes that regular oil does, ie. is more consistent and stable at all temps and I have gone 5000 + miles between oil changes without ever burning any valves. i also use premium fuel and with 200,850 on the odometer i still get 49mpg in my 90 5 speed 1.0L metro.

    If someone wants to come to Nebraska to get it I have a 92 metro i bought for parts (bad valves) good auto trans and good body. $50 takes it.

    And for an earlier discussion on geo metros being death traps and no good on slick surfaces, if its slick slow down(here lies the fix for being a death trap as well), these cars have no weight (therefore they hydroplane easily, especially with wider tires or tires with close tread patterns) otherwise you would need bigger than a 1.0 motor to move it and consequently your mpg would drop.

    I Love My P.O.S. rusty metro.
    97 miles round trip to work 6 days a week 65-75mph, never any troubles.

    also if anyone is interested i have a set of Panther Custom Wheels 14x7 3 spoke aluminum wheels, never on car and never had tires on them, 3 still in original boxes, that will fit on a metro. email.smoke@yahoo.com
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    Hi. What kind of wheels they are?
    Do you have any picture?
    About the oils - if you drive more than 10 miles one way to work - do not use syntetic oils. The synthetic oils are good only for cold startups and short driving. The regular oils works fine. I like 10/30 all year around, good viscosity, break down easy and recover quick. Castrol and Penzoil is best.
    THe 3 cyl. engine runs always around 3300 RPM at 65 MPH. (5 speed).YOu will need replaced the oil more frequently than on 4, 5 or 6 cyl engine.
    My rules is - 3 cyl engine -3000 miles, 4 cyl - 4000 miles, 5,6 and 8 cyl. I go around 5000 miles.
    My cars are over 200.000 miles and never have a problem with engine. Just basic service.
    Use only WIX or Fram oil filter. They are very good.
    Mark
  • smoke76smoke76 Posts: 9
    gimmie a day or 2 and i will get pics of the wheels for you.
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    Let me know, when you will send the pictures
  • I have a 1999 Geo Metro and when looking for parts most of the part stores on list up to 1997 or 1999 only, either as a Geo or Chev. Are the mechanical parts different from 1997 to 1999 ?
  • I beleive the listings will be under Chevrolet or Chevy, not Geo metro at that point. GEO was a joint project and was being dissolved at that point. Be careful of mixing some 1997, 1999,200 parts there are some differences... :shades:
  • not being a mechanic in CA., I am not sure about the emmissions testing. My gut feelings is that it will effect it, otherwise Chevy / Geo would not have designed it that way (Hhhmmm??) sorry I do not have a better answer. Parts for Geo's are becoming harder to find. (junkyards) There were some rumors that Suzuki was thinking of re-starting the Suzuki Swift model (base model for Geo Metro), which would be like VW re-starting the Beetle... with gas prices zooming, it may happen. :shades:
  • smoke76smoke76 Posts: 9
    pics are in my photo album, wheels, in my profile.
  • smoke76smoke76 Posts: 9
    I run synthetic oil in all 6 of my vehicles year round, last year on my trip to sturgis i logged 1,827mi. in 3 1/2 days on my harley, average of 12 hrs a day riding time. I havent had any problems vtwin to v8 weather it was -50F windchill or 118F without heat index. The coldest weather ive ridden my harley in was about 36F, not fun. The others have been driven in all of it. Most of my filters are K&N (air & oil)I use Fram oil filters on my van, ranger, and geo.
  • 2stews2stews Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Geo Metro coupe with a 3 cyl/stick. I also have a 1996 Geo Metro sedan with a 4 cyl/auto. I want to put the 4 cyl from the '96 into the '95...I know this can be done. My son wants to keep it a stick...
    Can I take the 4 cyl and bolt the std trans to it and install it into the '95?
    ...did they ever make a 4 cyl with a std transmission for
    '95-'96 Metro.
    ...I just got done bolting up the std trans to the 4 cyl,
    but now I noticed that rear engine mount does not line up by 2" and I wonder if the drive axles will work...?
    ....will I have to change the computer & wiring harness?
    (will the '95 3 cyl computer run my '96 4 cyl engine if I get engine mts & drive axles figured out...?)
    Help ....PLEASE!
  • jimbob1jimbob1 Posts: 70
    I'm no real help, but I can tell you there are 96 Metros with the 4 cyl and manual tranny. I'm driving one. It is the sedan, not the coupe.
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    You will need pressure plate, clutch, bearing etc for manual. You can go to autoparts and ask for clutch, pressure palte for 3 cyl and 4 cyl. engine. If the part nymber are this same, you can used. But the best way is to compare the parts.
    I'm not sure it is worth to swap the engine and parts. Many differences in work. Somebody on this site made comments that computer CCM is this same. I do nopt belive, but?
    Good luck
  • stobarstobar Posts: 110
    I own a 98 Chevy Metro, 3 cyl, 1 liter, 5 speed that I bought about 18 months ago. The car only had 28,000 miles on it (owned by a retiree in Florida). After purchasing the car, I had all the fluids, belts, and tires replaced, with the exception of the timing belt. I just went over 42,000 miles on the car. The car is now 8 years old. I would like a recommendation when I should consider replacing the timing belt. Although the care doesn't have the mileage, I'm worried about the age. Thanks for your response.
  • replace it today, not tomorrow. Price is well spent.
    I own a 1995, 1996, 1997 Geo Metro's and a 1997 Suzuki Swift (a metro) so, I know my Metro's.
    :shades:
  • hb2474hb2474 Posts: 1
    How much was it to install the aftermarket A/C?
  • mary02mary02 Posts: 2
    The door handle on the driver's side of my '92 Geo broke off. Only has 30,000 mile on it. Want to keep in as good a shape as possible. Someone mentioned www.abebooks.com regarding parts, but what is search for once I get to the site? Any ideas. Also how to I post a message and not necessarily to one person? Its my lst time.
  • Contact Paul Bollen in Ville Brossard at 450 443 4263 He has tons of parts, is inexpensive and ships all over. Frederick
  • I was noticing on my 99 Metro when in traffic and inching ahead that a brake seemed to be sticking on. I would nudge ahead in line and the car would come to a stop on its own. It was not severe, but enough so that I took notice. I had not checked the rear brakes since I bought the car so I decided to pull the rear drums. I found the park brake pivots sticking on both sides, more so on the left rear. The shoes on the left rear were even worn a little more than the right. I had noticed the park brake lever seemed ok other than it took a hard pull to make it hold. This was obviously because the pivots were seizing and they were not traveling the full amount. So as a helpfull hint, if your park brake does not seem to hold properly or you feel some brake resistance when you are at low speeds, it might be wise to pull your rear brakes & check your park brake pivots!
  • The unit was around $700 as I recall (from a firm in Phoenix). It would have been much cheaper to drive the car out there to have it installed, but I didn't have time.

    I think my local independent mechanic charged me $500.

    Be careful, though, the hose ends were not properly crimped in the kit (possibly so the length of each could be shortened if necessary). The vendor asked if my mechanic could crimp them; the mechanic never did, assuming they were already crimped. Result: leaks. The second time it happened I had the mechanic pull all the hoses & have them crimped - I haven't had a leak since (over a year).

    The AC works really well - it's been driven from Amarillo to Arlington, TX, Lubbock, TX, & St. Louis, MO this summer, and it worked flawlessly. In the hottest & most humid area it's a good idea to set it to recirculate the air.

    Hope this helps!
  • Thanks, I'll call him and let you know how I made out.
  • Hi, new member. I just put a new clutch in my 93 metro 3 cly , also new timing belt. Unfortunately I think I have it off one tooth, are there any marks on the cam and crank pulley I can verify with? I see some on the cam pulley but none on the crank. I don't want to buy a manual, any help would be appreciated.
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