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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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  • i have a 1995 geo metro 3cyl. 1.0 liter , manual 2 dr coupe..my battery isn't being charge when the car is running..i put a new alternator in and a brand new battery in . i had new battery and new alternator checked to make sure they were working and they do...but still battery in not being charged when car is running...has anbody had this problem...please let me know what i can do.....
  • I finally got my timing belt installed correctly.
    on my 93 1 liter. I found the marks on both cam and crank pulleys. good thing it is a non interference motor or I would have messes up the valves for sure. It Has 160,000 miles and runs great, hopefully I can get at least another 60,000 miles
  • stobarstobar Posts: 110
    Thanks p10leadman. I appreciate your response and I don't doubt you, but my mechanic says the timing belt looks fine. I'm still skeptical or I wouldn't be posting this. What is the standard mileage when most people replace the timing belt? Although the car only has a little over 42,000 miles on it, with it being over 8 years old now, I'm concerned. In old posts, I've seen that some people replace at 50,000, and others wait longer. My mechanic hasn't done me wrong yet, but I'm at the point that my piece of mind overrides his opinion. I'm going to let the shop replace the timing belt. Is it a time consuming process, and is the timing belt expensive? Again, many thanks!
  • The manual says to replace the timing belt at 100,000 miles. Most manufactures estimate people will drive 12,000 miles a year, so a little over eight years to reach that mileage. Your belt is likely still ok but it might be worth the peace of mind to replace it soon. A belt & tensioner should be about $80 to $90, two to three hours tops to replace.
  • Hi Lorax, I just got my project Metro on the road. I resued it from going to the junkyard! I LOVE it! My wife LOVES it! I'm getting 48.8 MPG! It took a lot of cleaning up but the engine & tranny (5-speed) run so sweetly! I do all my own work and found when your advised to change the water pump whenn doing the timing belt .. just do it! I didn't see why until I left the old water pump on after I did the belt THEN it started leaking! So I re-did the job. Got good at it too (hah) I spent a few dollars on new parts but now I have a comfortable, dependable, nimble neat car. I wish I had TWO of them! (maybe I will) I love mine! They are easy to work on too! Hope this helps! Drop a line if I can help somewhere. DangerDude, Oh By the way, my Metro has 184,000 miles on it and runs like a Rolex!
  • I just rebuilt the motor and got it in and now the rpm goes up and down at idle. if i put the timing light on it the timing osculates from 0 to 10 deg. before top center. I don't know if it was doing this before I got it because it had a blown motor when I got it. any Ideas as to what the problem is would be appreciated. Dan in Edmonds, WA
    (The motor I got to replace the blown motor had 175k on it and when I pulled it apart there was no cylinder ridge and you could still see about 60% of the cross hatch in the cylinder walls.)
  • hey ..if you find out, let me know also..I have the same problem in my 95 geo metro, 4 cyl...
    :confuse:
  • more than the car is worth.
    :P
  • I own a 1995,1996, 1997 (2) Geo Metro's...all have composite headlights. That is the clear plastic lenses, not sealed beams. I went to look at 2 Geo Metro's this week, a 1995 and a 1996, both had sealed beam headlight systems.. was the composite headlights a accessory add on? When were they made as a standard feature ? :surprise:
  • Hi. Just purchased this one. Steering wheel vibrates when driving down highway. I checked to see if it was all coming from engine by placing in neutral and coasting on the road at about 45 miles per hour and there was less vibration but still there. Seems to be a combination of engine vibration and elsewhere. I put new tires and wheels and struts front and back and had tires balanced and front end alignment.
    Vibration still there.
    Could it be other front end parts? Wheel bearings? Could CV joints cause this?
    If the timing belt is off one tooth, would this cause substantial engine vibration? The engine starts very easily
    and the timing was just set by my mechanic.
    Do three cylinder engines cause steering wheel vibration regardless of what you do or should we be able to get rid of the vibration? If I take my hands of the wheel I can see it shake.
    Thank you for any ideas you have.
  • Dear fellow Metro fans .. Here's a question I haven't found explained in the Haynes shop manual. My Metro has high mileage, which doesn't really mean anything to a well maintained machine, But my gearshift lever is rather loose and I'd like to re-bush and snug it up a little so it doen't dance around when idling in neutral. It has about a quarter inch vertical play. I'm assuming this can be corrected with a new rubber grommet or something replaced at the base of the shifter. Anybody ever done this one?
    This doesn't effect shifting .. just want to snug it up a bit because I'm fussy about my powerful, babe-magnet, hi performance Metro! Thanks! DangerDude
  • Yep! You should change the nylon based bushings. that part of the shift linkage is quite easy to get at. A couple of screws, you remove the console from inside. Then you have access. I don't remember but you might have to remove the wands. Very easy job, and not expensive. Have fun.
  • We just bought a crashed 2000 Metro at auction, it was pretty strip down, no fuse box, distributor, or keys, we have put it all back together except for the airbags, but it will not start it gives the first spark and does to start, but then it it stops sparking, we had the computer check and it is fine, if we check the distributor off and move it at a fast rate it sparks well, could it have a security swith that activated itself after it was crashed?

    Thanks,
  • A vibration like you described is almost always caused by a wheel or tire. You say the vibration was there with the old tires also so it is unlikely it is a tire or balance issue, although it is still possible. I would be checking the rims closely for bends. You may have to go to a tire shop and explain you still have a vibration even after having new tires replaced. They should put them back on a balancer & check the balance first, then check the rims for runout. By your description its likely you have a bent rim.
  • I just did this recently on my 99. My shifter was stiff though, not loose. The bushings are at the base of the shifter and can be accessed under the car. You will see the shifter beside the exhaust pipe, it has one bolt running through the shift shaft which has two bushings, one going in from each side. Mine was seized and rusted making the bolt hard to remove. Yours is likely not going to be hard to remove since the bushing are worn. Clean everything and replace the two bushing and you should be good. There are more bushings at the transmission end of the linkage but hopefully the bushings at the base of the shifter will fix you up.
  • Thanks for the advice.
    I'll have the wheels and tires checked.
    Best wishes.
  • Had the wheels rebalanced today and the technician noticed that the aftermarket alloy wheels have a larger hub-opening diameter than the car and said I need to get hub fit rings to make the wheels hub centric.
    Does anyone know the hub diameter of the 93 metro 2-door
    convertible?
    I need this dimension to order the set of hub fit rings
    for the alloy wheels.
    Thanks!
  • Hi there and hello!
    A wobbly wheel is the worst way to wind down a country road.
    The hub size is 58 millimeters. Happy trails. :P
  • Thanks very much, vanillalatte!
    Should be smooth riding from here on out!
  • I'm about to drop a new engine in my '97 and decided to put in a new clutch while I had it apart. I didn't check the travel or resistance on the clutch lever w/the old clutch, but with the new one it's really hard to move and only travels about 1 inch. Is this the way it's supposed to be? I'd like to know before I reinstall the motor/transaxle.
    Thanks
  • I just replaced my clutch on my 99 a few weeks ago & noticed my pedal effort is slightly higher. I attribute it to the new pressure plate being newer & stiffer than my old worn plate. If you are trying to move the clutch lever by hand it would be very stiff compared to when using the foot pedal hooked up to the cable. What you are desribing seems normal. Don't forget to leave about an inch travel (at the pedal, not the lever).
  • Speedshift! I finally got aroound to my Metro shift bushing job! I found one in the local boneyard to "trian" on before starting. It was just as you described, accessable from inside. It was easy! I got those bushings and snap ring and hurried home and opened up MY console. DARN! My '99 had a totally different shift assembly! Why do they DO that?? Mine had to come out the bottom, (around the exhaust pipe) and the shift lever pivot ball had a plastic segmented cup that couldn't be tightened up easily. I ended up shimming the lever ball with a wrapping of greased up leather. THAT worked. It feels like a new car! Are we cheap or what! LOve My Metro even more now! DangerDude
  • Good for you Danger Dude!
    As for I, well I spent my day yesterday sunday taking the train to Oshawa where the elderly owner of a pristine Geo Metro hatchback 94 with 40 000 miles on was waiting for me. Not greedy at all this gentleman had put it on ebay at a low buy it now price. It was on the site a mere hours and he was bombarded by 42 emails. I had to act fast and did. I am not disappointed one bit, no rust, everything dead stock! I will do the regular: cap, spark plugs, wire change AND change the brake fluid. Details. I drove it back a little further north than Montreal. It was purring at 110 km an hour the whole trip. The finest part is that Mastercard Citibank (Driver's Edge) is paying for it in totality, just like they did for Vanilla Latte, my convertible. You see they give you 2% on everything that you buy, up to $5000, towards the purchase of a car, new or used, from any country. I am not ashamed to put EVERYTHING on my card, it pays.
    With but 61 000Km on the odo, that stick shift is nice and stiff, in fact I doubt that this gentleman (who won an Oscar by the way) ever used 5th gear. As he changed the muffler recently, this means that the household used it for short convenience store trips. It was a third car....I'll put Vanilla's 13 inchers to replace those nervous 12 inch tires and look for a sway bar. Toodle dee doo.
  • Just wondering if anyone could post the clutch disc thickness specs, new and/or worn out, from the service manual. I have a 91 metro, but I think it is the same for 88 to 98 metros. I am trying to decide whether to wait a week for the new clutch plate to get here or reuse one of the old ones. My engine blew up and the engine from the junk yard came with a clutch disc. That disc is almost the same thickness as my disc. I wasnt having any clutch problems. my current thickness is 7mm.
  • my Chilton's manual doesn't list a plate thickness. It simply says replace the clutch when the rivet heads are .02/inch below the surface. Hope that helps.
  • Chiltons says that I need to jumper pin D & E on the 6 pin diagnostic connector on my 97 3 cyl. Metro
    To time the motor but they give no clue as to which pins are D & E . Does any one know which of these pins are D & E?
    pin 1 pin 2 pin 3

    pin 4 pin 5 pin 6

    pin 1 purple, pin 2 purple/green, pin 3 black, pin 4 no wire, pin 5 blue/white, pin 6 no wire.

    Does any one have a good source for oxygen sensors were one does not have to mortgage the home stead To buy one? Dan
  • thanks for the info, I couldnt find the thickness from anyone so I decided to just pop it back in. Its my
    only registered car so I need it working. I ordered
    the manual and clutch plate from partsamerica.com and
    its taking forever for them to get here. Eta is like
    11 oct...

    I finally got the engine all back in there and the starter wont work for some reason. There was only one bolt on connection to the starter as I recall. Seems like there
    should be a few connections there but I couldnt find any
    thing else to hook up to it.

    Any info on timing it would be good too. This engine didnt have the head off so I think it might not need to be timed.
  • there is a 1/4" spade terminal on the starter that has to be connected to the wire that operates the solenoid
  • Yeah, i found that.

    Then i had no spark, i guess the dist from the new engine(from a 95) doesnt work the same as the my old one. i popped the old one on and got a spark. Always something.

    I dont get any hits so I guess its prob just a
    timing issue at this point. Unless I got a crap engine :0
    I might test the compression tomorrow along with trying to time it. As for timing, seems like there is a setting for the injection pump and the distributor.

    I do have a 30 day return guarantee on this junkyard engine, not that i want to take it back out. :)
  • well i tested the compression, 165 180 165, so not too bad.
    Looks like the problem is with the fuel. I dumped some gas down its gullet and it fired pretty good.

    Trying to look underneath for stuff,I saw a leak coming from the rear of the vehicle.
    I then had to pull the gas tank out to get to the leaking lines. Also, it appears the fuel filter is ancient and may have been clogged. One more ride to town and I might have it going :)
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