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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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  • So any thoughts on a nonfunctional fuel pump, is there a kill switch(like rollover inertia) somewhere?

    I replaced the fuel lines by dropping the tank and now the pump doesnt come on.
    I tried swapping in the inj relay to the fuel pump relay so i dont think its the relay. unless both relays went bad.

    It seems to have voltage at the relay so i dont think its the computer. I think I have to drop the fuel tank again to directly apply voltage to the fuel pump. I hooked up a inline fuel pump I had lying around and it didnt get the car to start. Prob doesnt generate enough pressure, but It did bring the fuel to the front of the vehicle though.

    I thought for sure i would be driving by nowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww :)
  • It seems it may be a computer problem. I wired the fuel pump up directly so that functions. Still no start though, no power to the injector. I noticed the check engine light isnt coming on when you turn on the ignition. So I am thinking the computer is not working...
  • Dear Fellow Metro Pilots & mechanics .. Since my 1999 Metro came to me in a rather distressed state (beat up, scratched, scraped, dirty & dented) I intend to make it sparkle like new again. It's already there operationally and mechanically. Now it's time for the cosmetics! Wooo Hooo!!! I've learned the paint code info is on the cardboard under the rear carpet.. naturally mine was missing. The cardboard replacement from the bone yard came out of a green donor Metro, (poor little thing). Does anybody know the GM paint code for the 1999 Metro silver color?? Thanks everyone .. Please don't make me resort to a gallon of latex, a roller and a six pack! Subsonic DangerDude, low level Metro reconasance pilot.
  • well danger dude, there are 33 odd pages on Teamswift describing a very inexpensive and durable method of painting with....a small roller and Tremclad (Rustoleum) It is worth getting that 6 pack and reading it. I'm sold on it!In fact I bought a pint of Tremclad for my latest acquisition: Espresso Nero.Needs touch up underneath before treating her with waxy oil.

    By the way, for all you convertible owners, Good news! It's a go, I am going to make a hard top for those little cabriolets. The design objectives are: easily removable by one person, use of existing componants if possible,lightweight, and fair price. I will keep you posted. Any comments or suggestions are more than welcome.Thank you, Vanilla Latte.
  • dgl43dgl43 Posts: 1
    Have it ready to remove from can't figure out how to get it out. Do I have to take apart something else? Any ideas? Thanks
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    Hello. If you can describe what you will sell to the "hard top" convertible , what is this? What kind existing components? Mark
    pipesbac@aol.com
  • I am in the plug making stage of fabricating IN NORTH AMERICA a easily removable hardtop for the Metro-Sprint-Firefly.
    Design objectives: lightweight, easily removable and install by one person,
    use of existing components and low cost.
    This eliminates curved rear window.
    Options could be: heated rear glass though.
    On another site, Teamswift, many suggestions have been made, including farming the project out of America. This I will not do.
  • Dear DGL43 .. I feel your frustration! I had to take my alternator in & out about five times HOWEVER! Ya get good at it eventually. It's a real tight fit too. One hand holds the alternator one hand holds the wire harness out of the way and at this point a miracle ought to occur as the alternator is too large for the resulting opening anyway. I had to twist and turn the alternator and stretch the wire harness but it can be done if you use the right vocabulary. Of course the air cleaner is on the garage floor already. If you have a 12 MM socket and a beer you can do it. Be patient .. it's worth it in the end! DangerDude
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    Please let me know when you will be done to sell the hard top. This will be made from fiberglass or another form of plastic? Where you will get the sealing arount the top?
    I would like purchase 2 tops. Let me know.
    Send email to : pipesbac@aol.com
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    Why is so difficult remove the alternator? Firts disconect the battery and disconnect the wires from alternator.
    It is simple and easy. Remove the srew on the top, jack the car up and remove the lower 2 bolts from plastic cover, remove the long bolt and remove the alternator. New belt will be nice. If you drink beer, will take you longer and few scratches on the hand. Do not drink when you work. Danger. Pipeman
  • Dear Pipeman, thanks for the dialog, My Metro now needs me to beautify it's sheetmetal. Dimples and scratches. You have any experience doing light bodywork? I think lots of sandpaper,some Bondo and a paint job should result in a real showpiece! I just replaced the windshield wiper shafts (in the cowl) The plastic housings wore out. That was truly easy (no beer required) I brew my own beer so occasionally I must do a quality check on THAT hobby. Just trying to be "efficiant" ya know. Beautiful thing about the Metro is you only have to do a job once and things stay fixed, not like an old MG! DangerDude
  • If I remember right for those two years the top of the line model got the the compostie headlight and the base got the sealed beam.
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    I'm not sure by your definition - body work on my metro - if it is very bad, you will have problem to finish perfect surface for paint. Any bondo, fiberglass, will need lot of sending, priming. I will not waist my time for fix-up. Just drive and enjoy the fuel economy. Look for another Geo before 1995 ( Personally I do not like after 1995 and up) and find perfect body, original paint, higher millage, or low millage. More easy is to rebuild engine or trans, that body work. I got 2 geo's 1991 Convert. with 44000 miles and 1994 with 148000. Body is perfect. Look around, ebay, Trading times around USA. I'm sure, we will hit $ 3.55 or more for gallon of gas. You will have fun watch everybody pay so much, for driving so little. My cost miles per value of vehicle is coming to $ 0.01 to $ 0.03 per mile.
    Please accept my apology for making joke about the beer and working on cars, but how you will pay respect to the car, the car will pay you back this same way.
    Do not use bondo, better some fiberglass or fiber filler. More work, but better effect for longer time. Bondo hold water.
    Good luck. Any questions, let men know.
    Mark the pipeman
  • m564agm564ag Posts: 15
    Hi I am new to this but have been reading these for a while. I have a 1994 metro 2 door 1.0 5speed I am getting 35mpg out of her this is a all around avg. I have been told that this is low and want to know how to get the most out of her she is stock with 140,000 miles on her. I want the get up and go plus the mileage I have been playing with the timing to try to get there but with no real luck. so where would the the timing be set to get the best of both worlds. or what else can be done to this at a cheap price. Thanks Mike
  • Hi there!
    I also have a 94 2 door hatch back.
    Start by changing plugs, wire and distributor cap. Check the air in the tires. Change the fuel and air filters. Verify that the idle is at 950RPM when it's warmed up...... Empty all the accumulated stuff in the rear.... Stuff like that.
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    If you drive in the city cycle, it is not bad. But if you drive 80% hway, you should get around 45-48 mpg.
    Let me know. Maybe we can help you. I have two geo's and I put 2 brand new engines - completly balances. My everage is aroung 48 mpg. Most is hway - 85%.
  • Pipeman -

    Did you buy the engines already together or did you do the rebuild? My Geo has 213K Miles on it and it is starting to run a bit rough. I don't know if yours is the 3 or 4 cyl. Mine is the 3 cylinder one. Just trying to figure out if I should sell it or maybe just do a ring and valve job. Let me know what you did and at what cost (if you don't mind me asking).
  • m564agm564ag Posts: 15
    well Van I have had this car for a while and have change stuff and kept a good eye on the tires. but the best I have ever gotten was 42mpg with a good tail wind. I do drive about 60/40 hwy/city. Hwy speed 75mph avg now what I mean by city driving is about 50/50 rural/inner city. But is there a timing set mark where you get both the get up and go plus mpg the fact spec is not so good on the get up and go part -- car seams to take way to long to get up to speed and is a real dog when it comes to going up hill I do have it adv some now which seams to help I am missing something or is just the way these cars are.
  • m564agm564ag Posts: 15
    well pipeman I have had this car for a while and have change stuff and kept a good eye on the tires. but the best I have ever gotton was 42mpg with a good tail wind. I do drive about 60/40 hwy/city. Hwy speed 75mph avg now what I mean by city driving is about 50/50 rurel/innercity. But is there a timming set mark where you get both the get up and go plus mpg the fact spec is not so good on the get up and go part -- car seams to take way to long to get up to speed and is a real dog when it comes to going up hill I do have it adv some now which seams to help I am missing something or is just the way these cars are.
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    I redone the engine by my self. Both engine 3 cyl. : the 1991 after rebuild registered on cold engine compression: 214, 208, 204. The engine # 2 -1994 also 3 cyl. registered
    208, 204, 199 psi. The first engine I assembled with very close tolerances on rings ( 1 compr, + 2 oil rings.
    The pistons and the conrods/wristpin where registered at 675 gramms (3). The second engine was assembled with more open tolerances on rings with pistons and conrods/wristpin 670 gramms.
    Both cyl. heads intake ports and exhaust ports where polished and where also opened in the inlet and the exhaust manif. was opened in the inlets.
    If you need more info, please let me know. I checked the compression on one engine 1991 after 10000 miles. The second has only 4000 miles.
    The 1994 with 143.000 miles lost oil pressure and I replaced the oil pump, pressure valve, but didn't help. I found later the camshaft bearings was gone. The second engine was low on compression #2 with 145 psi. I decide rebuild the engine completly. The 1991 Covert, has only 36000 miles, when I change the engine.
    If uyour engine run poorly,please check the compression. IF is aroung 160-190 psi, you have a problem with the EGR. Remove the exhasut manifold, intake manifold and clean the
    opening in the cyl. head and also in the exhaust manifold, check also the intake flow. Remove the bolts from the exhaust site and replaced with studs. Works much better when you will assembled the engine.
    I always play with my cars and my work. Usually my engines afyter rebuilding registered over 180.000 miles, with proper maintenance.
    If the body is good, first check the front suspension, the lower control arm attached to the unitbody ( lower frame) is not rust, I will redo the engine or cyl. head.
    Do not make any short cuts. If you think do valve job, rings , you can redo all engine at ones. More easy.
    I'm planning use my Geo's next 20 years. I drive daily over 120 miles to work.
    Also in good weather I drive my BMW 524 TD with 230.000 miles at 35 MPG.
    Any questions, let me know. I like help people. American people help me here 25 years ago, when I escaped Poland.
    God bless USA and Americans.
    Thanks.
  • pipemanpipeman Posts: 58
    If you get 42 MPG in 50/50 driving it is very good. Honda and Toyota can't dupliacte this. You paid for the vehicle few hundrats dollars, but the "smart buyers" paid over 20.000 and get this same millage.
    With the timing marks - watch out for set up. Is different before 1992 and after 1993 up.
    What yer is your car?
    YOu shuold't pump more than 28 psi in the tires. You will shake to much the car, if you have more pressure. All car will vibrate on higher tire pressure. I use 13" tires.
    Before 1992 the sepc are 10 BTDC, but after 1993 July up, the timing is only 5 BTDC, but you must lock the timing on plastic plug ( bridge two outlets with wire).
  • Hey, I'm new here, hope someone can give me an answer.

    I have a 91 Geo metro, Car runs great but has hesitant acceleration at speed. If it were a carburated car I'd say the accelerator pump was not working. But since this is EFI I'm lost. Anyone have this same problem or know what is wrong?

    Many Thanks

    Ron
  • Could be a number of things: spark (did you change the plugs recently?), catalyzer could be plugged up...
  • Pipeman -

    Thanks for the ideas and recommendations, I'll have to check the compression when I get a chance and take it from there.

    Thanks again!!
  • Hello. Personally, I belive the catalyst only work on cold start ups. After engine is in normal operating temp. cat. converter is unnessesery item..
    What I did - remove the Catal. Converter, cut of the front pipe and I cleaned the converter inside. Removed all "honey nest". Installed back and never have any problem. My OX. sensor work better, no more back pressure, better mpg.
    Passed emission - easy. Just do not mention about that.
    Pipeman
  • Well.....it's not legal really, we are well aware of that. BUT you get better gas mileage, thus you are more efficient, therefore you pollute less......
  • THis is only suggestion - I idi for on reasen - save a money on new cata. converter and also improove mpg.
    Didn't damage the World.
  • I have a 1991 Geo Metro 2 door hatchback that I'm fixing up for a commuter. I've already done considerable work to the car. I've heard about the problems with the EGR. In addition to replacing or cleaning out the EGR do I need to pull the intake and/or exhaust manifolds and clean out the passages? If so, how do I determine where those passages are? My shop manual isn't very clear on this.

    Thanks

    GeoMetro91
  • First - remove the EGR valve and clean the egr valve. Next clean the connection from EGR to carburator. I used the pipe cleaner - you can purchase at any tobacco shop. Use the "sharp" not a soft cleaner. You can buy the short and long pieces. It is very cheap $ 1.00, 2.00.
    Second. Remove the exhaust manifold. After the exhaust manifold is out - clean very well the opening ( 1/2" dia.) accross the cyl.head. From the exhaust to the egr.
    Look at the exhuast minifold and you will see small hole running between the "exhaust collectors" 1 - 2 -3.
    The opening is less than 1/8" dia. Use the transmission fluis to clean the passages. Put the one site of the pipe cleaner to the transm. fliud and insert in every small hole. Must go thru. If is plugged, put more transm. fliud in the openong in leave for 15 min. and try push thru. If will not open the hole, use some sharp wire and push. By gental to nor brake the wire. Also you can use high pressure air to clean the passages.
    Replace all bolts with studs. Easy to work. Use grade 9 or 10 studs. Open the ehaust manifold inlets abut 45 degree angle , the flow will be easier. Before instaling the studs, retap the thread in the cyl. head with greas.
    Use copper grease to install the studs in the cyl. head.
    Any questions, let me know.
    Pipeman - visit my web www.bacartpipes.com
  • Thanks for the info. We are talking about a 91 geo metro, right?
    No sure what you mean by opening up the inlets on the exhaust manifold. Are you talking about taking a die grinder to the manifold itself? If so how far back should the 45 degree bevel go?

    Thanks,

    geometro91
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