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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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Comments

  • The kid was driving a very rusty 1986 Ford Escort, and his vehicle is UNDAMAGED. Not even a scuff on his rear bumper. Makes me sick to think about it.
  • Thank you for the suggestions about my ongoing brake problems. There is a Midas muffler/brakes near me who is excellent, but I didn't take my car there as it is under warranty and I don't think I should have to pay out of my pocket to try to fix this problem. The BBB arbitration may order a repair attempt by an independant mechanic... I'm still waiting to hear. They have until December 12th to make a decision whether the car will be returned/refunded or not or what. I've never been through this so I really don't know what exactly can happen. I mailed them all my copies of receipts. Also had all tires replaced under tire warranty as dealer said some of the shimmying was due to defective tires. Goodyear replaced all four, though couldn't get the OEM tires. I'm ready to give Chrysler a go now... of all the new cars I've bought including a Honda Civic wagon, the Chrysler products have been the most trouble-free for me, regardless of all the negative posts. My last Metro (1981) was a good little car... never a brake problem... thus my reason for buying a new one. Only complaint on the old Metro was the little buttons on the sides of the dash controling the wipers & lights kept falling out. Would just Super Glue them back in. Also overhead lamp would flicker. That's about it until I just ran it into the ground on cross-country hauls. Drove it from Florida to Pennsylvania on 2.5 cylinders.
  • mznmzn Posts: 727
    Bad news, occupant1. Rotten luck but I'm so glad that no one was injured.

    carlady/host
  • Hi, just had to let someone know my poor Geo just died ,I had a '89 5 door lsi .I had 250,000 miles on it and although she was getting a bit noisie she was still plugging along! Her demise was my own fault, I changed the timming belt and failed to tighten the tensioner enough .Consequently it jumped time and slammed a valve through the number two piston. I was sure I was on my way to making 300,000 miles but not now.One thing is for sure, I am going to replace it with another Metro. You just can't beat them for gas milage and value. AS long as you religiously change the oil at 2,500 miles , change the timming belt every 65,000 miles ( WATCH THAT TENSIONER!!),and tune-up once a year you can drive them virtually forever.
  • mznmzn Posts: 727
    Sorry about your poor car, fozzy2. I was out and about around DC today and noticed several Metros on the beltway and elsewhere. They do seem to go and go! It sounds like you'll be very happy with your new Metro also.

    carlady/host
  • Lost my '89 Metro Lsi 2dr hatch when 'Floyd' passed through - best car I ever had (she decided to become a submarine, but didn't take to road-travel after row-boating - lol). And ony 74,000 miles!
    The '89 does not require 'religion' - I was very negligent: oil changed 1ce/yr or longer? - tune up (once in 10 yrs?) + She ran on cheap reg gas without a 'hiccup' ...

    She was a DREAM to own and a TREASURE to possess! Sigh!

    I feel u'r pain, and share it, fozzy2!
  • Hi, I'm planning to buy a 1999 metro hatchback coupe with A.C., the MSRP is $10945 and my buypower price with $1500 rebate is $8899. I also have a GM card rebate of $2800 to use which will bring the price down to $6099, does this sound like a good deal. Will appreciate feedback from people who have bought metros and their experience.
    Thanks
  • Since a 2000 model costs about the same but will be a year newer, get the 2000 model. You might pay a few hundred more, but remember that 1999 has already depreciated about $3000 off sticker, it is worth about $7500 used now...if that much...the 2000 model will be a better deal, try to get another $200-300 off, the lower the price you get on that 1999, the closer you will be to actual value.
  • bqlebqle Posts: 1
    Hello, after hearing all these information
    about how reliable Geo Metros are. I
    really want to buy one. Does anyone have a
    cheap good working Geo Metro they would like
    to sell for under $1500? I have no
    experience with fixing cars at all such
    as changing oils, etc. With the reliability
    of Metros discussed here, that won't be
    much of a problem. Please email me if you
    are in San Diego and maybe we can negotiate a
    price? Thanks.
  • I bought the new 1999 Metro after rebates and $400.00 trade for 1987 Subaru Justy that had a lot of rust for $5282.20. Someone at the dealer dented the side while I was signing the paper work and parked it with that side against the building, luckily I took a walk around it while the salesman was still there and they had the paintless dent people handle it. The manager tried to sell me undercoating $500.00 and warranty $1000.00 which I refused. I bought seat covers at pepboys for $9.99 managers special, they look like a they're worth a lot more. I put 333 miles on it so far and think I'm going to like it, as long as I don't get into a head on collision with a semi. I would appreciate feedback on maintenance and appearance care
    Thanks
    Al
  • The only Metro I have is my 1995 LSi hatchback. It's a four-cylinder, automatic, with 109K on it. It's red, the air's broke, it has the cassette player, the defroster, runs and drives fine, needs front end work though. I'll take $2200 for it, but no less, because I have to pay it off with that $2200. Email me if you will, my email address is in my profile, just click on my handle to get it. Also got a 1989 Escort stickshift with 352K for $600 in case you want something cheaper or can't find the Metro you want. I live in Ohio, I'll deliver it to you for free if you'll drive me to the bus station.
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    I would recommend looking in your local paper. You should be able to find a well maintained Metro with less than 100K miles for $2000 or under. I just sold my old Metro ('89 with 191K for $50.00). It was a high school student who was flat broke and needed a car. The Metro I bought to replace the '89 in January 1999 is a '90 with 115K and I paid $350.00 for it.
    I put another $400.00 into it (tires, brakes, struts, timing belt) but it runs and drives great! I have a huge commute 121 miles a day so now I have about 150K but absolutely trouble free.
    These cars are the best kept secret. I wouldn't buy one with a automatic (mileage and performance suffer greatly). But start looking around, try looking at some classifieds on line or a dedicated site like autotrader.

    http://traderonline.com

    Good luck and happy hunting!
  • I've taken my first trip in the Metro and hit a big snow storm on I-90 by Erie, Pa. and it went through the snow and ice covered roads without out any problems, sometimes you couldn't see the road or the other cars, the metro has good traction and I have a two foot long ice scraper and was able to roll down the passenger window and scrape the ice off the rear view mirror, I turned the heater up full blast and put the controls on windshield and the heat went back to the rear window and melted the ice off, I don't have a defroster for the rear window. I haven't checked gas milage yet, I'll give the engine a chance to break in, looses power on hills, but that may be due to being new. So far I like the Metro a lot. The radio doesn't work very well and I'm going to call the dealer and see what they can do to fix it, it should be under warranty. I would like to have cruise control, has anybody ever had a aftermarket unit installed on a Metro. Al
  • If you look under the hood of your Metro there should be a threaded hole on top of the valve cover, and that's one of the attachments for the cruise control. Of course, go to a GM dealer and they'll say it isn't offered, but if you call Ziebart, or Sears, they will offer to install your cruise control for about $300-$350. I have other things to buy in the meantime (like headlight capsules) but it would make my move to Texas much more comfortable.
  • Hi,
    My Metro has 1000 miles on it and sometimes it stalls after it sets awhile and is cold, It starts OK and I make it to the first stop sign then when I pull out it dies, and it takes a few minutes to start it again. Has anyone else had this problem. When I explain it to the dealer I would like to get it fixed right the first time.
    Thanks
    Al
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    The only time my 1995 Metro with automatic stalls is if I pump the accelerator five times or so when first starting from a dead stop. That floods it because it has throttle body fuel injection which might as well be an electric carburetor. Of course yours is a 1999 with port fuel injection so it shouldn't do that. When it stalls do you hear a hissing sound like a vacuum leak? SInce it only does it when cold I would check for a vacuum leak near the air cleaner somewhere.
  • Hi,
    I plan to keep my Metro as long as possible, does anybody recommend rustproofing and if so which rustproofing company has the best products. Do the Metros hold up over a long period of time and high milage and what maintenance will keep it in good condition.
    Thanks
    Al
  • Recently I heard "klick" noise from my metro engine when I accelerate, and it's getting worse. Last week, I went to a garage to change the oil & filter, a mechanic told me I need to do the tune-up and valve adjustment in order to eliminate that noise, which will cost around $160. Do I really have no other choice? Can I just buy some fuel treatment, which will cost certainly substantially less than $160, to clean up the fuel system, and get the problem fixed?
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    a bit touchy on the Post button are we?

    No. You cannot adjust your valve by pouring STP in your tank. You have to remove the valve cover and adjust the valve lash by hand using a torque wrench and a feeler gauge. Or if the engine in your Metro is a zero lash, just the torque wrench. $160 sounds good for a tune-up AND a valve adjustment, I would do the work myself personally, but that is a good price and he is not trying to rip you off. Japanese vehicles need periodic valve adjustments, no one does them until it's either too late or it gets really noisy. I would get it done before you snap a valve stem and your engine swallows a valve.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    the problem is not that your valves aren't clean...it's that the rocker arms that push them down are wearing out and they need to be tightened down or possibly replaced...but the adjustment usually takes care of it. Your valves are probably clean. If one of your exhaust valves is burnt, you can tell by feeling your exhaust, if it feels uneven and it sounds almost like your engine is missing, one is burnt. Burned valves occur from excessive engine temperatures and from air leaks in your exhaust. If air is leaking back through your exhaust when your engine is turned off from running warm, the oxygen in the air can act like an oxy-acetylene torch and cut little pieces off your valves. I'm not kidding, either. The valve adjustment keeps them from being slightly open at times or from not opening enough. And keeping your exhaust system in working order keeps them from getting burnt.
  • baveuxbaveux Posts: 175
    A bad exaust system can cause a valve to burn ?
    An exaust leak in the exaust system ......
    So if I run my geo 3 cyl,straight pipe my valves will burn....
    Maybe I missing something here (Frenchman!!! )please explain...
    Thanks
    Richard
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    If the leak is between the engine and the catalytic converter, it can burn valves. So if you are running a straight pipe from the engine all the way back, with no converter, and no muffler, there is nothing to keep oxygen from going back through the exhaust. The converter is more important because the converter uses the oxygen to burn emissions such as hydrocarbons. The muffler adjusts backpressure and volume. Backpressure is important, but I still don't understand the physics of it. But if you have a leak between your converter and your engine, i.e. rusted downpipe (or a lack of a converter), then cold air gets up into the exhaust whiel your engine cools and the heat from the engine and the movement of the oxygen can cut your valves. It is a VERY slow process but if you drive your car for a year or two, you will get burned valves. High combustion temperatures, say if your EGR valve is not working, can also cause burned valves, is much more common, and happens much faster, but it is possible if you leave your exhaust system out of working order long enough (say a year), to burn your valves slowly that way.
  • davifidavifi Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm thinking of buying a 2000 Metro and am looking for anwers to a few questions...
    Is the 1 .0 L 3-cylinder engine adequate, or is the 1.3 L engine a good idea? Is one more reliable(i.e., lasts longer) than the other? I live in Santa Cruz, CA, and it's very hilly here. Also I wonder if anyone out there has an opinion on whether the ABS brakes are worth getting. About pricing, I read the previous posts on pricing, and I'm not clear on how much dealers are willing to negotiate on new cars (never bought a new car before), but I was quoted $8900 (after taxes and rebates, including an approx. 9% discount due to my dad being a (retired) GM employee), for the basic Coupe (1.0 L). About $500 of this was for the radio and cassette player, I have trouble understanding why that is so expensive. If anyone has info or opinions to offer, it is much appreciated! Thanks in advance - David
  • baveuxbaveux Posts: 175
    Thanks for your reply,I've learned something tonight !
  • Hi Dave.
    I just bought a 1999 Metro and have over 1000 miles on it, It is 3 cyl. 1.0L 5 speed manual trans. The only options it came with are A.C. and radio with digital clock. I live in Pittsburgh,Pa and I go up and down hills everywhere I go. It stops OK without ABS brakes and is zippy and fun to drive. The radio dosen't play very well and I wouldn't buy a radio from GM again. Find out what the invoice price for a 2000 is and deal with the salesman at that price, also refuse all extended warrantys and undercoating.
    Al
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    OK. I drive a 1995 Metro, 4-cylinder with automatic. If I could afford to buy another I would get a standard transmission. But I would keep the 4-cylinder. It is pretty much bulletproof in a car this small. The 3-cylinder is a weak engine and wouldn't be the best choice for driving up and down hills. Also the clutch would end up doing most of the work if all you had was the three. As to the radio thing, there is a $100 option called radio prep which gives you the antenna and the four speakers and the wiring. you can then go to a scrapyard and buy the same Delco radio for about $50 with tape, $100 with CD. I bought mine on eBay for a $40 bid plus shipping. The new radios aren't worth it, $500 for a radio with CD is ridiculous, and it isn't even a Sony or a Kenwood. Any aftermarket radio will work with the right wiring adapter. I would choose a model that has NO radio but DOES have radio prep. That will save you a lot. The dealer will say, "but I would have to order it," and you tell him to do run the locator program on his computer and find one that has it and do a dealer trade. He will tell you it is a waste of time, you tell him if he wants his sale to do it. Also remember to check Edmunds for the most current rebates and the latest invoice. You should pay no more than 2% over invoice on this kind of car. Then after take off the rebate you have an $8000-$9000 Metro, depends on if you're getting A/C. This is how I found the Metro I wish I could have, the silver 1999 LSi 5-speed with air, radio prep, and a tachometer. I would have bought it but I don't have the money.

    Another idea is to try an auto buying service. They will get you your Metro for $50-$250 over cost less rebate, and they can either deliver it to you or let you pick it up. They order the EXACT car you want. Edmund's has this service, go to the Edmunds.com home page and you'll see it!
  • I have a 94 Geo Metro, It has never given me a lick of trouble. The air just broke, but I purchased an extended warranty outside of the dealer when I brought the car so that should cover it. My car now has 62000 miles on it. My secret to success is to follow the dealers recommended repair and maint. schedule to the letter. I change the oil every 3000 miles and follow all other guide lines. I would not recommend the car in 3 cyl for hilly areas, but I live in Florida which is flat and I don't have much trouble with hills.
  • My Metro was purchased new in August of '96. Since then, the only problems suffered were a bad A/C blower switch within the first year; in 1998, my compressor and evaporator were replaced; later in the year, my hoses were changed out; last time I brought it in, the seals were replaced. As of this writing, I still have no A/C. I DID buy the extended warranty from the dealer (5 years/75000 miles, $0 deductible), but whether the dealer will honor it because of the A/C problams is uncertain. Otherwise, it's been a very well-built scooter for my commutes to and from work.

    P.S. Don't buy a tape deck from the dealer, because (1) it gets installed by a 3rd party; and (2) the speakers that get installed are so inferior that they will bottom out when you listen to the voice of a newsman on an AM station. Save your money and get one installed which will do the car justice.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 408
    Changing speakers are a good idea. I haven't yet because I don't have the samoans to spend, but the front doors have 6 1/2 S's. That is a hard to find size. Crutchfield lists a few, but I don't have my Crutchfield catalog anymore (stolen by twistedsister.com). I know Polks, JBL's, Kenwoods, and Pioneers come in 6 1/2 S's.

    The factory speakers are easily junk, mine were blown when I bought the car and I just turn down the bass and live with it.

    For 1999 models, radio prep is $89 invoice and $100 retail. Radio prep is a no-credit option on 2000's. Remember even if you want that Delco stereo, don't bite the $450 bullet, just go to the boneyard and get one for about $75. I got mine on eBay for $40 and all it needed was a volume knob.

    I still love this Metro in the snow. Since my Dynasty is down needing brakes (thanks New York City!), I have been driving it constantly since I got my driving privleges reinstated and I went back to work. The wider 175/70R13's should be hurting me but the car handles wonderfully.

    Don't get ABS if you live in snow climates, you can't stop the car because the ABS keeps taking it's little electronic foot off the brake. My mother had me pull her ABS fuse (under the hood, in the little black box) and she is so relieved to be able to lock her tires and slide to a stop again.
  • pat56pat56 Posts: 11
    Hi...

    It's the guy from GM Repurchase Department, back again...the "Metro Gnome". I'm afraid I have some terrible news. My baby...the apple of my eye...my '99 LSi Hatchback gave its life to save me from injury.

    An elderly lady pulled -directly- out in front of me, from a blind entrance to a parking lot. I hit her going near 40 mph. She got the ticket, and I got a totalled car. My passenger and I were fine. Even the front doors still opened perfectly on my car. The front "crumple-zone" and the passenger "roll cage" construction kept us both safe.

    I've come to find out that a couple Tampa police officers bought Metros last year, after seeing people emerge unhurt from accidents that "should have killed or seriously injured them". Well, I'm living proof of how safe they are. I'm sending a thank-you note to the factory in Canada, with a set of pictures. The pictures are posted here:

    http://www3.cybercities.com/q/qorogh/car1.jpg
    http://www3.cybercities.com/q/qorogh/car2.jpg
    http://www3.cybercities.com/q/qorogh/car3.jpg
    http://www3.cybercities.com/q/qorogh/car4.jpg
    http://www3.cybercities.com/q/qorogh/car5.jpg
    http://www3.cybercities.com/q/qorogh/car6.jpg


    As soon as the insurance check comes in, I'm getting another Metro LSi hatchback...a 2000 this time. R.I.P. my little green '99 Metro. I'm really going to miss you. *sigh*


    Pat Peters
    pat56@freenet.tlh.fl.us
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