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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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  • dano84dano84 Posts: 2
    1996 Geo Metro only fires one time on each try.

    Engine will fire one time each time the key is cycled. Will do it as long as I want to keep trying. If you continue to hold the key in the start position after it has fired it will not fire again until key is recyled. I have checked wiring harness plugs in the engine compartment. Checked crank sensor,installed known good distributor, coil, ignitor,computor. Engine was changed in this car by previous owner. I bought it not running. What am I missing?

    The engine is cranking over normally. It fires the number three cyl one time only each time the ign key is cycled from off to start/run. Also this is a 1.0 3 cyl. 5 speed. The timing belt has been checked and it is timed correctly.
  • Only one cylinder fires...

    Ignition fuse 20 A? not likely

    Ignition switch? more likely

    imho of course...

    Steve B.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Here are the possibilities that occur to me:

    1> Cracks or carbon tracking in distributor cap or rotor. (Try checking for spark directly from coil, instead of from distributor cap)

    2> Firing order of plug wires in cap incorrect.

    3> Misaligned or defective ignition pick up unit or air gap between reluctor and pick up not set correctly.

    4> Computer or igniter intended for car with automatic transmission, or for wrong year model.
  • I want to thank all who helped me, especially senormechanico for the diagram, when you don't have any stickers under the hood, its a pain to find info thats not in any of the manuals. You guys are great! Keep up the good work. Thanks Again, Chevelle67 :)
  • Having checked all the sensors (all were ok) I finally was able to lean out the mixture by adjusting the throttle position sensor in the counterclockwise direction.
    I marked the original position, and backed it up a little bit. I drove it a couple of miles to see how it acted. At first, the idle speed was quite high, but it corrected itself after a mile or so. After repeating the above procedure two times, I tried it all the way counterclockwise just to see what it would do. After the engine heated up to normal, the idle went into a hunting mode, speeding up and returning to normal. I then readjusted it clockwise just slightly to the point where the hunting ceased. I now have a peppy car with a CLEAN exhaust pipe! Thanks to everyone for suggestions, especially to Joel (zaken1)

    Steve B.
  • fastford1fastford1 Posts: 4
    Ok, It's a 92 Geo Metro with a auto trans. I had the old motor drop a valve and wasted the motor. I rebuild another motor and now it won't start. I have tried just about everything. New cap and rotor, wires and plugs also tried a new coil and a different distributor. This is the first Geo I have owned and not to sure where to start anymore. The car turns over and I get spark ( but faint) and fuel. Can anyone help ???
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    It would be a good idea to check the compression. That would be a way of confirming that the engine was assembled properly, the valves are seating, and the cam timing is right. The normal compression spec is 195psi. If the compression is less than 170, I would expect it to be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to start.

    A weak spark could also prevent it from starting. If your battery is old, or run down, that alone could cause this problem. You might try hooking up a good set of jumper cables from another vehicle, and then running the engine in that vehicle for 5 to 10 minutes, and then leave it running while trying to start the Metro.

    Metros used different parts in the ignition systems of cars that had 5 speeds; and those that had automatic transmissions. Some of those parts will not work well if they are mixed and used in the wrong type vehicle. Similarly, you can't substitute any other type of coil for the stock unit. In order for it to work properly, it must be a coil intended for that year and model car.

    And the spark plugs on Metros can easily foul, if the car is attempted to be started too many times. Try removing the plugs and seeing if the center porcelain has become wet with gasoline, or black with carbon. The plugs must all be clean and dry, be of the proper heat range, and the gap should be set to .041".

    It also might be that when the plug wires were installed in the new cap, the firing order was accidentally changed. That would do it... And if the distributor has been removed and replaced, then the ignition timing may have changed. Just to be safe, I would position the distributor so that the mounting bolts are in the center of their slots. If you've already done that, then try turning the distributor more clockwise from that center position; and be sure the mounting bolts are securely tightened before trying to start the motor.

    I hope this helps,

    Joel
  • fastford1fastford1 Posts: 4
    i'll have to check the compression. Have not done that. All the parts i have changed where for the right year. Thanks
  • metro_manmetro_man Posts: 1
    I am looking at buying a Geo Metro, 92' I think. Anyways the interior is all good, and much of the exterior is good too, execpt for these parts, 2 places on the bottom of the rear panels (rust), and the hook on the hood (to latch shut) is gone. Also, the engine had its timing belt changed 2 months ago and now it is studdering at an idle and when you really hit the gas. Could the timing be off? Alot of people say that the Throttle Position Sensor could be going on it. And I am going soon to check the underside of it. And have to get the total Miles.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    The timing could certainly be off, but the compression might also be low; and that would be an important thing to find out before you invest in this car. Compression should be at least 180psi, and preferably 195psi. If the compression is good, it would also be important to inspect the spark plugs, and make sure they are the right model for that car. And, if you find that they were made by NGK; I would replace them with either Autolite or Bosch, with the gap adjusted to .041". This problem could be coming from the throttle position sensor; but that would not necessarily mean the sensor is failing. Instead, it most likely means that the sensor needs to be set to a richer position (turned more clockwise).
  • I just installed new composite headlights with Silverstar Ultra bulbs and I was able to adjust verticall on beam but the side to side will not adjust. I turned plastic knurled thumb wheel and the metal geared adjuster as far as they will go either way and lights do not move. Is there a lock nut or something? Junk Chilton manual not very clear - says to take to a shop - I've never not been able to do a headlight adjustment. What's up?
  • The nylon sleeve in which the fine threaded adjustment is threaded is probably worn. Take it apart, quickly pass a propane torch in it, I said quickly, and with some vises squeeze it back on the metal threaded "rod" part. Do it a few times, it works.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I just came across a company called SLR Motorsports that makes a performance chip for Geo Metros. They claim it will increase both mileage and power. I'm considering buying one, but I'd like to know whether anyone has had previous experience with this company, or with their products.

    If anyone has used this product, I'd very much appreciate your input.

    Thanks, Joel
  • Junk, real junk. Another Geo Metro owner tried one. Don't spend your money on any of that 'improve performance' stuff', including turbo type or blower crap.
  • These are brand new headlight assemblies and bulbs. Neither side adjusts right to left so I doubt it's a worn part.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Their website shows a picture of the type of chip that has many leads, and is used inside computers for controlling many functions at once. So I wrote to the company and asked them where the chip they are selling is supposed to be connected, and they said it does not go in the computer, but instead connects to the plug for the intake air temperature sensor. However, the air temperature sensor only has 2 or 3 wires on it, and just measures the temperature of the incoming air. So their chip, in that location, cannot do the many things that real performance computer chips do. There is no place where that many leads could even be connected. All it can do is richen up the mixture; whether your car needs it or not. But that can also be done with a single resistor, which costs less than a dollar.

    So thanks for the "heads up!!!"

    Joel
  • I have a 1991 Geo Metro that was in storage for 7 years, with 75w90 in the 5-speed manual trans, which was fine before that, but now won't downshift to 1st or 2nd without stopping or double-clutching, since the 1st and 2nd gear synchros aren't doing their job. Downshifts to 3rd and 4th work fine.

    I envision the car sitting for 7 years and the the oil forming varnish or sludge and binding synchros up. Is that possible? If so, is it realistic to suppose that a solvent or additive could break this up, and if so, what would it be?

    I was told by a mechanic they could be freed up by removing pan and moving them around by hand, but am hoping to avoid this, also wondering if anyone has tried this.

    Also, have a used trans but know nothing of its history. Is there a way to check its functions before I go to the trouble of installing it?
  • My 1995 does the exact same thing. Even upshifting to second is tough when it's cold outside until I've driven it a mile or so.

    I think the synchro is just worn out.

    I have bought a new part but haven't installed it.

    Steve B.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I think it would be worth adding a liquid graphite penetrating solution to the transmission, to see if it frees up the synchros. I use Kano Labs "Penephite" for such purposes.

    I've found that the 5 speed transmission in my Metro is extremely sensitive to the type of lubricant I use in it. Metros have a special situation in that respect, because the transmission and the differential share the same lubricant. But most differential oil contains extreme pressure friction reducing additives, which if used in the Metro transaxle, will interfere with the operation of the synchros. Red Line makes a synthetic gear oil which does not have those friction modifiers in it. I used it for many years, but found it still did not shift smoothly when the transmission was cold. I eventually found that a special purpose lubricant called Golden Spectro 75W-90; GL-5 full synthetic gear oil, worked better than anything else I've ever seen. It can be found at many motorcycle shops. And I add about 3 ounces of Tufoil additive to it, when I fill the transaxle. That further improved the shifting, and also quieted the transmission.

    Incidentally, Suzuki also recognizes the synchro problem. Their recommendation, in the Metro owner's manual, is to briefly pause in neutral during each shift. I do that, and find it helps a lot; but many of today's drivers are not happy when they are behind someone who shifts like that.

    Joel
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Check my reply to another owner about this problem; post #1375.

    Joel
  • seaman59seaman59 Posts: 2
    How do i reduce cabin db?
  • When I bought my '95 Metro the interior was really filthy and smelly. A young single mom with kids had owned it. Need I say more?

    I removed the seats, carpet, side panels and pressure washed everything.
    I let it all dry a couple of days.

    Next, I used spray glue and put down 2 layers of a closed cell foam carpet pad which I got for free from the local carpet store's dumpster. They were glad to give it to me.

    After that, I installed the pressure washed original carpets and seats.

    The car's not as quiet as our Chrysler 300M, but it's a lot quieter than before and easy to carry on a conversation at 50 mph.

    The additional weight is probably only about 30 lbs, and I think, worth every bit.

    Sorry for the rambling post,

    Steve B.
  • david40david40 Posts: 5
    alldata says this is the first step is to remove the drive pulley. the distance between the pulley and inner fender looks too small to slide the pulley off after removing the attachment bolt. anyone run into this problem?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    On Metros equipped with the 1.0 engine, it is necessary to remove the inner fender skirt before removing the drive pulley. I haven't done it on a 1.3, but I expect it is the same situation. The inner fender skirt is attached to the chassis by plastic fasteners that use a push pin in the center to lock them in place. Pressing the pin further in releases the tension on the fastener, which enables it to be pulled out. These fasteners can then be reset and used again to reinstall the skirt.

    I hope this helps,
    Joel
  • david40david40 Posts: 5
    thanks for the reply. I am familiar with removing the plastic fasteners and I have removed the plastic assembly. but the distance between the pulley and the metal inner fender seems about 1 to 2 inches. I have removed the pulley on a couple of ranger's and removed the radiator to use the puller . I plan on taking a second look saturday, this is a 2001, 1.3, automatic with air. anyone with replacement experience?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    If I remember correctly, the pulley on my 1.0 can be removed by just unscrewing the three or four bolts which surround the center. My recollection is that It is not necessary to use a puller. Once the bolts are out, the pulley can be slipped off sideways. Since it is not keyed onto the crankshaft, it does not have to move toward the inner fender; so the small clearance you observed will be enough to allow it to come off.
  • david40david40 Posts: 5
    thanks for the info, hit the library and alldata again. you are exactly right. I removed the small bolts and removed the pulley. first time i have seen a system like that. after removing the belt, it looked great after 112000, i put it in the box the new one came in. just in case
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Yeah, that user friendly pulley arrangement is just one more example of how Suzuki engineering is heads and shoulders above the rest of the field. If you keep working on that car, you'll discover all sorts of nice little touches that make Suzuki products such a joy to own and maintain.

    Incidentally, while it might be good insurance to keep the old belt around in case something unexpected happens; I definitely wouldn't re-use the old belt as anything other than an emergency band aid. A new belt can reliably be used for 90,000-110,000 miles, but at that mileage, even though it looks great; it has endured enough thermal and mechanical stress that it is unsafe to depend on it further.

    Joel
  • d0nt00d0nt00 Posts: 2
    Anyone ever get this fixed? My 93 is doing the exact same thing after rebuild. Check valve was put back in at time of rebuild...could I have put it in wrong?? Thanks
  • amontygamontyg Posts: 3
    just purchased a 2001 metro with 54000 miles. the check engien light was on and the vehicle really had a loss of power so i had the guys at autozone do a diagnostic with thier computers and it revealed that the front o2 sensor was bad. replaced the sensor but it did not fix the problem. i took it to the dealer to let them check it out and they said the problem was the fuel module. not the fuel pump but the module specifically. the problem is they want 1200 dollars for the module and autozone and checker only sell the pump. my question is what exactly is in the module and will one from a junk yard work?
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