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Chevrolet/Geo Metro



  • stobarstobar Posts: 110
    I own a 98 Chevy Metro, 3 cyl, 1 liter, 5 speed that I bought about 18 months ago. The car only had 28,000 miles on it (owned by a retiree in Florida). After purchasing the car, I had all the fluids, belts, and tires replaced, with the exception of the timing belt. I just went over 42,000 miles on the car. The car is now 8 years old. I would like a recommendation when I should consider replacing the timing belt. Although the care doesn't have the mileage, I'm worried about the age. Thanks for your response.
  • replace it today, not tomorrow. Price is well spent.
    I own a 1995, 1996, 1997 Geo Metro's and a 1997 Suzuki Swift (a metro) so, I know my Metro's.
  • hb2474hb2474 Posts: 1
    How much was it to install the aftermarket A/C?
  • mary02mary02 Posts: 2
    The door handle on the driver's side of my '92 Geo broke off. Only has 30,000 mile on it. Want to keep in as good a shape as possible. Someone mentioned regarding parts, but what is search for once I get to the site? Any ideas. Also how to I post a message and not necessarily to one person? Its my lst time.
  • Contact Paul Bollen in Ville Brossard at 450 443 4263 He has tons of parts, is inexpensive and ships all over. Frederick
  • I was noticing on my 99 Metro when in traffic and inching ahead that a brake seemed to be sticking on. I would nudge ahead in line and the car would come to a stop on its own. It was not severe, but enough so that I took notice. I had not checked the rear brakes since I bought the car so I decided to pull the rear drums. I found the park brake pivots sticking on both sides, more so on the left rear. The shoes on the left rear were even worn a little more than the right. I had noticed the park brake lever seemed ok other than it took a hard pull to make it hold. This was obviously because the pivots were seizing and they were not traveling the full amount. So as a helpfull hint, if your park brake does not seem to hold properly or you feel some brake resistance when you are at low speeds, it might be wise to pull your rear brakes & check your park brake pivots!
  • The unit was around $700 as I recall (from a firm in Phoenix). It would have been much cheaper to drive the car out there to have it installed, but I didn't have time.

    I think my local independent mechanic charged me $500.

    Be careful, though, the hose ends were not properly crimped in the kit (possibly so the length of each could be shortened if necessary). The vendor asked if my mechanic could crimp them; the mechanic never did, assuming they were already crimped. Result: leaks. The second time it happened I had the mechanic pull all the hoses & have them crimped - I haven't had a leak since (over a year).

    The AC works really well - it's been driven from Amarillo to Arlington, TX, Lubbock, TX, & St. Louis, MO this summer, and it worked flawlessly. In the hottest & most humid area it's a good idea to set it to recirculate the air.

    Hope this helps!
  • Thanks, I'll call him and let you know how I made out.
  • Hi, new member. I just put a new clutch in my 93 metro 3 cly , also new timing belt. Unfortunately I think I have it off one tooth, are there any marks on the cam and crank pulley I can verify with? I see some on the cam pulley but none on the crank. I don't want to buy a manual, any help would be appreciated.
  • i have a 1995 geo metro 3cyl. 1.0 liter , manual 2 dr battery isn't being charge when the car is running..i put a new alternator in and a brand new battery in . i had new battery and new alternator checked to make sure they were working and they do...but still battery in not being charged when car is running...has anbody had this problem...please let me know what i can do.....
  • I finally got my timing belt installed correctly.
    on my 93 1 liter. I found the marks on both cam and crank pulleys. good thing it is a non interference motor or I would have messes up the valves for sure. It Has 160,000 miles and runs great, hopefully I can get at least another 60,000 miles
  • stobarstobar Posts: 110
    Thanks p10leadman. I appreciate your response and I don't doubt you, but my mechanic says the timing belt looks fine. I'm still skeptical or I wouldn't be posting this. What is the standard mileage when most people replace the timing belt? Although the car only has a little over 42,000 miles on it, with it being over 8 years old now, I'm concerned. In old posts, I've seen that some people replace at 50,000, and others wait longer. My mechanic hasn't done me wrong yet, but I'm at the point that my piece of mind overrides his opinion. I'm going to let the shop replace the timing belt. Is it a time consuming process, and is the timing belt expensive? Again, many thanks!
  • The manual says to replace the timing belt at 100,000 miles. Most manufactures estimate people will drive 12,000 miles a year, so a little over eight years to reach that mileage. Your belt is likely still ok but it might be worth the peace of mind to replace it soon. A belt & tensioner should be about $80 to $90, two to three hours tops to replace.
  • Hi Lorax, I just got my project Metro on the road. I resued it from going to the junkyard! I LOVE it! My wife LOVES it! I'm getting 48.8 MPG! It took a lot of cleaning up but the engine & tranny (5-speed) run so sweetly! I do all my own work and found when your advised to change the water pump whenn doing the timing belt .. just do it! I didn't see why until I left the old water pump on after I did the belt THEN it started leaking! So I re-did the job. Got good at it too (hah) I spent a few dollars on new parts but now I have a comfortable, dependable, nimble neat car. I wish I had TWO of them! (maybe I will) I love mine! They are easy to work on too! Hope this helps! Drop a line if I can help somewhere. DangerDude, Oh By the way, my Metro has 184,000 miles on it and runs like a Rolex!
  • I just rebuilt the motor and got it in and now the rpm goes up and down at idle. if i put the timing light on it the timing osculates from 0 to 10 deg. before top center. I don't know if it was doing this before I got it because it had a blown motor when I got it. any Ideas as to what the problem is would be appreciated. Dan in Edmonds, WA
    (The motor I got to replace the blown motor had 175k on it and when I pulled it apart there was no cylinder ridge and you could still see about 60% of the cross hatch in the cylinder walls.)
  • hey ..if you find out, let me know also..I have the same problem in my 95 geo metro, 4 cyl...
  • more than the car is worth.
  • I own a 1995,1996, 1997 (2) Geo Metro's...all have composite headlights. That is the clear plastic lenses, not sealed beams. I went to look at 2 Geo Metro's this week, a 1995 and a 1996, both had sealed beam headlight systems.. was the composite headlights a accessory add on? When were they made as a standard feature ? :surprise:
  • Hi. Just purchased this one. Steering wheel vibrates when driving down highway. I checked to see if it was all coming from engine by placing in neutral and coasting on the road at about 45 miles per hour and there was less vibration but still there. Seems to be a combination of engine vibration and elsewhere. I put new tires and wheels and struts front and back and had tires balanced and front end alignment.
    Vibration still there.
    Could it be other front end parts? Wheel bearings? Could CV joints cause this?
    If the timing belt is off one tooth, would this cause substantial engine vibration? The engine starts very easily
    and the timing was just set by my mechanic.
    Do three cylinder engines cause steering wheel vibration regardless of what you do or should we be able to get rid of the vibration? If I take my hands of the wheel I can see it shake.
    Thank you for any ideas you have.
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