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Chevrolet/Geo Metro



  • Hello Zaken1

    Sorry for my English

    When you change the plugs ... you must change and adjust if necesary the distance between central pin and ground of the plug .

    This must be 0.7 mm ( do it with a standard calibrated blade of 0.7 mm )

    If there are no changes ... try to adjust the central plugs regulator ( were all wires from plugs are meeting )
    Loos the screw and turn easily till the engine have the most hy turation or sounds good .

    After that if it's too turated ... adjust the turation from the gas admision screw at the top of the engine .

    Good luck and if you need details write me dicectly to e-mail :
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    It sounds like you are referring to a European car, or a different model. Geo Metros sold in the USA have a plug gap of 1.1 mm. Cars in this country haven't used 0.7 mm gaps for many years.

    And we don't set ignition timing by ear in this country, because the cars have to go through regular emission checks, where the timing is checked with a stroboscope. Timing that has been set by ear will usually not pass such a precise inspection.

    And the US model Geo Metros do not have an idle speed screw on the top of the engine.

    I appreciate your effort to be helpful, but US cars are very different from the ones you mention.
  • 91m4l91m4l Posts: 3
    Not sure if i spelled protege right. Anyhoo, I have this bad Knock from start up(cold and hot) and not quite sure what to make of it. I changed the plugs, wires cap, rotor, air filter and so will be the oil, oil filter, and fuel filter. Here's lil history on the car(1991 metro 2dr w/112k)- I was told the head gasket was changed, the oil level is currently 1qt above (maybe the owner was afraid of it loosing oil on the 200mile trip to its final destination where a couple months later was bought by me), it seems like the 3spd is leaking but not enough to keep feeding in the trans fluid every month i think but i recently sprayed the engine compartment down for a better visual a few weeks into the future. I haven't checked the trans lvl yet but will post the lvl tomorrow. The spark plugs had a white electrode on them, uniformly to all of them. Compression is cherry on all 3cyl. I will check the timing this weekend possibly and tinker without the timing light to see if timing affects the Knock. The engine runs Smooth without load at 35mph.
    Another hurdle to ovecome is keeping the car till my dying day. Converting the car to Function as the Superbly Economical XFI model will be done in the future.
    Lastly, I plan on accumulating all tools required to be fully independant of the autmotive buisneses that charge you an arm and a leg to fix such a cheap car(cheap as in very affordable to someone who makes $6.75 an hour). So i ask of you to lend your hand out to me and take me along for the ride of a lifetime. I'd be very thankful and indebted to your kindness which eill pass on to others in need.

    p.s: unfortunately i installed NGK's a couple days before i read the post about spark plugs.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    In order to sort out the knock, I'd need to know the load and speed conditions under which it can be heard. Specifically, do you hear it at idle; under light acceleration; under heavy acceleration; at steady low speed; at steady high speed; and while decelerating. Is it loudest under any of those conditions. Does it change in volume with changes in engine load or speed?

    Regarding the high oil reading, bear in mind that the Metro is more sensitive to how level the car is when checking the oil than most cars. But it is not good to run it with too much oil. Incidentally, a leaky head gasket can let coolant get into the oil, and raise the oil level.

    And just what do you mean by 'cherry compression? The stock compression pressure on that engine is 190 or 195 psi. Most other engines are a lot lower. If the compression is higher than that spec, there could be a carbon buildup problem, which could create a knock.

    Anyway, welcome to the Metro owners fraternity!
  • Greetings to you all. This is my first posting. Ive enjoyed reading this forum for the past few months.
    I have a question regarding my 1990 4dr/htchbk. and was wondering if anyone else has encountered this problem. While getting off the freeway my 3cyl. stopped running. I had someone spin the motor and gas was just dumping like crazy into the carb. A few days previous I had noticed a strong gas odor. Could the fuel injector or fuel pump relay be bad? The timing belt is not broken and there is spark at the plugs. Any help would be welcomed.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    That's an unusual problem! Your thoughts that it could be a fuel pump relay which doesn't shut off are possible, but I think a stuck injector is more likely. Another possibility is that the fuel pressure regulator (located on top of the throttle body, next to the air intake) is either stuck, or the fuel return line is blocked. Rock is a great source for remanufactured injectors and fuel pressure regulator parts for that motor.

    You can check to see if the fuel pump relay is working properly, by turning the ignition switch to the position where the dashboard warning lights come on, but not turning it any further, so as not to crank the starter. You should hear the fuel pump hum for one or two seconds after the dash lights come on, but it should then stop. If it doesn't stop, then there's a problem with either the relay, or the electronics that drive the relay.

    And if there's a problem with either the fuel injector or the fuel pressure regulator, be sure to replace the fuel filter (located underneath the car, next to the fuel tank) at the time you change those parts.

  • Hello all,

    I have a 92 Metro 2 dr that has developed a problem with the lights. I have no light execpt hazards. Any ideas?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Of course, the first thing to check would be the fuses. The next likely culprit would be the headlight switch. The battery ground cable that goes to the engine originally came with a second, smaller wire that went to a bolt on the inner side of the fender. If this wire is now missing, it must be replaced in order to provide a solid ground path for the lights. Similarly, the headlight assemblies both have ground wires that go to the fender. If those wires are broken or missing, then the lights will not work.

    If you check and repair all these items, and still have not fixed the problem, try unplugging and securely reconnecting all the plugs you can find in the wiring under the dash. If the lights still don't work; please post again and indicate whether the lights all stopped working at the same time, and whether any rear lights, brake lights, or side marker lights still work.

  • This happened to me at night on the highway......the left headlight bulb exploded inside the casing. As I had installed the aerodynamic headlights found on the convertibles, the small glowing quartz particles did a mess on the inside of the casing.
    The bulbs were bad. I installed new ones, solved the problem.
    Hope this helps.
  • 91m4l91m4l Posts: 3
    The knock happens while in park under the engines load itself which i think its due to the 20*BTDC. The smog tester told me today after the failed smog test. Also he said the vacum advance lines were bypassed, and it was a ink pen tube that blocked both lines. So this weekend i will reset the timing. As for the timing advance, i'm not sure what to do yet but will do a lil research in the repair manual i picked up a couple days ago. I'm sure most of the prblem will be fixed once those issues are taken care of. 20*BTDC sure does seem like some destruction is in the process...a lil premature wear on the motor is what im expecting now. The engines compression floats between 150psi ( the sound of 3 revolutions of the motor ) to 185psi ( at the sound of 8 revolutions of the motor ), all three cylinders are equal in psi in relation to the revolutions.

  • 91m4l91m4l Posts: 3
    I didn't set the timing cause of the lack of tools but i did moved the distributor around advancing and retarding but the knock keeps on trukin and moves me into motioning for a rebuild. Today i went to a junkyard in search of the vacum advancer since its needed anyways and saw this manual 1991 metro vertible with the entire fornt end still intact minus a few relays, t-stat housing, damage from a frontside collision; everything in the bay looks good in condition. The junkyard will be holdin a 50%off day the week of Thanksgiving. Pray with me that the 1991 vertible is still there. The odometer reads 134k. If its still there i will be taking the instrument cluster(maybe), the wiring harness from the front half f the car( not sure if it matters when converting auto to manual) and other items that might be necessary. When and if the cnversion goes through ill be up the the MPG Crew and will also have a fancy Shift Light flashing at me which means my baby tells me its time to move it on up!

  • I want to thank zaken1 for the very timely and informotive tips.I really enjoy this forum due to the fact I have two metros. A 1990 automatic 4dr/hchbk and a1993 2dr/hchbk. I drive 110 miles to and from work so these little jewels are worth their weight in gold to me. Unfortunately my 1990 broke down right across the freeway where 3 days earlier I was rearended by an s10 pickup.Fortunately no one was hurt, but I got to feel the sensation a jet pilot goes through when engangeing his aft
    erburners,,,that s10 gave me a shove.
    The 93 5-speed has a rebuilt title and is considered total loss by the insurance co. It gets consistantly 48mpg.Three years ago I put in a japenese crate moter for which I paid 300 dollars.The motor had sat quit a while in a wherehouse because the lifters clacked away for a long time,,but eventually got quite and smoothed out,, que bella.
    In regard to the 90 4dr auto not starting,,the car is in the parking lot where Im employed.I work a nightshift so I can work on it a little before work begins.Because of the lighting or old age I didnt notice the timing belt wearing through the plastic cover,,,in essence the crankshaft pulleybolt was working its way out! Hopefully this week I can put it back together and get it running.I will let you all know.
    This 90 was my pet project,,I liked this car,, it is roomy and has a/c. It is a 3 cyl. and because its an automatic gets approx. 10 mpg.less than a 5 speed.One month earlier I replaced the piston rings,the rebuilt head I purchased from e-bay, I did lap and put in brand new valves for less than $50,New oil pump,water pump. All items purchased from Bruce Roller with Partsdinosaur from Arizona,,good people.
    Three weeks ago I took the 90 automatic metro to break in the rings and bearings on a worthwhile trip consisting of around 800 miles. I took my "GO BAG" for overnight accommidations.It was a great trip,,but the seats need some work. My back was sore the next day.It was a momentous trip which I will always remember.
    The American countryside is beautifull and I drove it in my Geo,,,Life is good!!!
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    It is fulfilling to me when someone becomes empowered by what I write!! Thanks for the kind words.

    I have a 1990 2 door hatchback, with a 5 speed. I bought it in 1992, with 58,000 one owner miles on it. The previous owner never put anything but Castrol in it. He broke it in on GTX, and then began using their 5W-50 Syntec at about 10,000 miles. He also installed a huge Amsoil bypass oil filter. Since I'm a fanatic about using only one brand of oil, I've stayed with the Syntec, and have kept on using the super fine Amsoil filter. I also add 3 ounces of Tufoil when I change oil (every 7,500 miles, due to the type of oil and the superior filtration). My Metro now has 270,000 miles on it, and never has even had the head off. It now runs better than it did when I bought it, still uses almost no oil, and recently broke it's own gas mileage record (by getting over 57mpg on a 300 mile freeway run). The only work it has ever needed was a timing cover oil seal, a wheel bearing, an alternator, and a water pump. The water pump ran almost 270,000 miles, before the seal finally started leaking about 2 months ago. The car still has the original clutch, original CV joints, and the original struts, But the CV joints will have to be changed soon.

    I think the Metro is an absolutely fantastic car. People who've driven it are amazed at how much power it has (yes, I've done some fiddling with the tuning). So I intend to keep this car for the rest of my driving life. And I've learned to live with the tire howl, which always seems to reappear after a set of tires gets a few miles on them. But since It gets better mileage than my friend's brand new Prius, I really can't complain.

    Suzuki outdid themselves when they built this car. Maybe that's why they decided to stop making them. But I did modify their design in one important way: I replaced the driver's seat with one from a Camry.

    I hope you keep yours going forever!

  • Hi there all....

    If you can get your hands on seats from a GT or GTi, you will be amazed by the difference!
    I just sold my 91 GT seats to a chap with a 98, bolted right in!

    They will also fit in the convertible, but you must retain your runners. I think that the vert has the worst seats of all. I also have GT seats in the vert, the grayish-silver ones, they are more of a match to the door panels.
    The Mark 3 and 4 seats have springs running lengthwise under the seats, whereas the GT seats have a full metal shell. A world of difference.
  • hey i have a metro and i love the gas milage but when i press the gas and it has some hesitation.
    it jumps when shifting in the lower gears
    and it can hardly get up to 50
    what the heck is goin on?
    something i can do?
    i want the push that a geo should have
    i think its a 91' metro
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    It is difficult to sort out this kind of situation without actually being able to test and drive it. I'm not clear about what you mean by "it jumps when shifting in the lower gears and it can hardly get up to 50." That sounds like the clutch might be slipping. If the engine sometimes speeds up while the car doesn't go any faster, that would be caused by a slipping clutch. The clutch pedal free play on those cars is adjustable. If you start to press on the clutch pedal; it should move freely, with little or no resistance over the first 1" or 1 1/2" of pedal travel, but when you press it further, it should then feel like you're compressing a spring. If the pedal feels tight from the beginning, with no free play, then it desperately needs to be adjusted. The adjustment is done by loosening the large nut that is located at the end of the clutch cable, where the cable connects to the arm coming from the transmission housing. Keep turning the nut until you get 1" to 1 1/2" of free play at the top of the pedal stroke. After you make this adjustment, if the clutch still slips, then it is too late: The clutch has worn out, and will have to be replaced.

    All clutches used to be adjustable, but many drivers didn't watch the free play. The free play distance becomes smaller as the clutch wears. If the free play is allowed to go away entirely, then the clutch will burn out. In recent years, manufacturers have begun making self adjusting clutches, so that owners wouldn't have to check the free play. But the downside is that people have become used to cars having self adjusting clutches; if they then buy a car with a clutch that's not self adjusting, and the free play goes away, it destroys the clutch. Knowing whether the car you drive needs to have the free play checked, and always watching the clutch free play are just a few of the many responsibilities we have to take on, in order to survive in today's complex and wonderful world.
  • Can a 3 speed automatic be removed without removing the 1.3L engine?
  • I think that I may be able to help a little with your problem. My 91 geo metro convertible just had a similar problem, but what it did was that it wouldn't rev up higher than 4000-4500 RPM and it didn't go much faster than 50-55 mph, and that was with me stomping on the gas pedal. My problem was the Catalytic Converter insides worked themselves loose and all that crap was pushed down to my muffler and clogged up my whole exhaust system, thus making my engine lose it's performance and it was extremely sluggish. I couldn't get my RPM's over the previously stated RPM range. If you can't rev over that limit, then there's a good chance that you're Catalytic converter crapped the bed and took your muffler with it clogging your exhaust exit.
    If you do see the RPM problem with your car, a good way to double check that is by taking out your O2 sensor, or just taking off your exhaust manifold or pipe that connects to your Manifold (it's easier to take off the manifold because the 2 bolts that hold the pipe onto the manifold rust and break easily when removing. Sounds stupid because you'll be taking about 6 or 7 fasteners out to drop the exhaust manifold). After you've done that you've officially bypassed the plugged up exhaust; Start up your car and rev it up. It'll be loud like a family of chipmunks screaming, but you should see that you'll be able to hit 6500 RPM without any problems. Let me know if this helps. If you don't have the RPM problem, there's a chance that it's something else, but after what I've seen with these cheap catalytic converters, it wouldn't surprise me to see someone else with the same problem.
    You might also consider checking your sparkplugs to see if they're fouled out due to the exhaust obstruction. Also, check your Air filter and the assembly that provides the air to the intake. There may be an obstruction there keeping your little car from performing like the go cart it should be. Check your timing, and all of your distributor parts for corrosion and poor electrical connections there. Could be a loose wire somewhere. Also, if you haven't changed your fuel filter for some time, it wouldn't hurt. That may be clogged or dirty if you haven't changed it in the last year causing fuel restrictions to your injector. Bad gas will really make your chipmunk in the wheel engine constipated and irritable. A dirty injector will give you a little grief too. Wouldn't hurt to have your injector cleaned/ serviced. Check your fuel pressure, maybe a bad fuel pump is not giving your engine the much needed sipping sustainance. All of these things could be cheap fixes to your problem. If none of these fixes work, then you may have internal problems in your engine, maybe worn lobes on your camshaft, bad valves, or a dead cylinder. Do a compression check just to be sure before you fix things that aren't broken.
    Best of luck to you from a fellow geo metro owner. Let me know how you do.
  • stepzstepz Posts: 2
    My Metro will shut off when I let off the gas after cresting a hill. If I let it coast for a few seconds then push the gas it will take off again most times. The mechanic said I had good spark and fuel pressure. and was getting a pulse to the injector but no fuel into the throttle body. What could it be?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    That sounds like you have a problem with the throttle position sensor. This sensor is mounted at the end of the throttle shaft, on the passenger side of the throttle body. It is held in place by 2 mounting screws, and has an electrical plug attached to it. The sensor is designed to shut the fuel off when the throttle is closed during deceleration, and then turn the fuel flow back on when you step on the gas. In earlier models, it is mounted on adjustment slots. That adjustment is extremely critical. If the sensor has been moved to the wrong position (too far counterclockwise), it will not turn the fuel back on soon enough when you step on the gas. If you have a later model sensor that does not have an adjustable mounting position, then it may have developed an internal electrical problem. Bad connections at the plug, or damage to the wiring harness could also cause the same symptoms.

    This problem could also be caused if an ignorant person had tried to reduce the idle speed by loosening the throttle stop screw. The throttle stop screw is factory set. That's why they put a lock nut on it. It should not be used as an idle speed adjustment. The engine computer automatically adjusts the idle speed. Yes, I know that the engine sometimes takes a while to slow back down to an idle; but that is deliberately done to keep the emission levels down. If a knowledgeable person reduces the throttle stop screw position, they also reset the throttle position sensor to a more clockwise position, to match the new stop screw setting.
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