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Chevrolet/Geo Metro



  • seaman59seaman59 Posts: 2
    How do i reduce cabin db?
  • When I bought my '95 Metro the interior was really filthy and smelly. A young single mom with kids had owned it. Need I say more?

    I removed the seats, carpet, side panels and pressure washed everything.
    I let it all dry a couple of days.

    Next, I used spray glue and put down 2 layers of a closed cell foam carpet pad which I got for free from the local carpet store's dumpster. They were glad to give it to me.

    After that, I installed the pressure washed original carpets and seats.

    The car's not as quiet as our Chrysler 300M, but it's a lot quieter than before and easy to carry on a conversation at 50 mph.

    The additional weight is probably only about 30 lbs, and I think, worth every bit.

    Sorry for the rambling post,

    Steve B.
  • david40david40 Posts: 5
    alldata says this is the first step is to remove the drive pulley. the distance between the pulley and inner fender looks too small to slide the pulley off after removing the attachment bolt. anyone run into this problem?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    On Metros equipped with the 1.0 engine, it is necessary to remove the inner fender skirt before removing the drive pulley. I haven't done it on a 1.3, but I expect it is the same situation. The inner fender skirt is attached to the chassis by plastic fasteners that use a push pin in the center to lock them in place. Pressing the pin further in releases the tension on the fastener, which enables it to be pulled out. These fasteners can then be reset and used again to reinstall the skirt.

    I hope this helps,
  • david40david40 Posts: 5
    thanks for the reply. I am familiar with removing the plastic fasteners and I have removed the plastic assembly. but the distance between the pulley and the metal inner fender seems about 1 to 2 inches. I have removed the pulley on a couple of ranger's and removed the radiator to use the puller . I plan on taking a second look saturday, this is a 2001, 1.3, automatic with air. anyone with replacement experience?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    If I remember correctly, the pulley on my 1.0 can be removed by just unscrewing the three or four bolts which surround the center. My recollection is that It is not necessary to use a puller. Once the bolts are out, the pulley can be slipped off sideways. Since it is not keyed onto the crankshaft, it does not have to move toward the inner fender; so the small clearance you observed will be enough to allow it to come off.
  • david40david40 Posts: 5
    thanks for the info, hit the library and alldata again. you are exactly right. I removed the small bolts and removed the pulley. first time i have seen a system like that. after removing the belt, it looked great after 112000, i put it in the box the new one came in. just in case
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Yeah, that user friendly pulley arrangement is just one more example of how Suzuki engineering is heads and shoulders above the rest of the field. If you keep working on that car, you'll discover all sorts of nice little touches that make Suzuki products such a joy to own and maintain.

    Incidentally, while it might be good insurance to keep the old belt around in case something unexpected happens; I definitely wouldn't re-use the old belt as anything other than an emergency band aid. A new belt can reliably be used for 90,000-110,000 miles, but at that mileage, even though it looks great; it has endured enough thermal and mechanical stress that it is unsafe to depend on it further.

  • d0nt00d0nt00 Posts: 2
    Anyone ever get this fixed? My 93 is doing the exact same thing after rebuild. Check valve was put back in at time of rebuild...could I have put it in wrong?? Thanks
  • amontygamontyg Posts: 3
    just purchased a 2001 metro with 54000 miles. the check engien light was on and the vehicle really had a loss of power so i had the guys at autozone do a diagnostic with thier computers and it revealed that the front o2 sensor was bad. replaced the sensor but it did not fix the problem. i took it to the dealer to let them check it out and they said the problem was the fuel module. not the fuel pump but the module specifically. the problem is they want 1200 dollars for the module and autozone and checker only sell the pump. my question is what exactly is in the module and will one from a junk yard work?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I called a Chevy dealer on this one; they looked up the fuel module, and said it was located inside the fuel tank, and contained the fuel pump and a sensor. They also verified the outrageous price (theirs was $1300). Unfortunately, they were unable to provide more specific information about the type of sensor that it was.

    I then went online to Rock Auto's website. They listed two different types of sensors which are located inside the tank on that car. One is a fuel tank pressure sensor, which they sell under AC Delco part #30020521, for $176.79. The other sensor is a fuel level sensor and float assembly, which is for the gas gauge. That one costs less than $100. I expect that the fuel tank pressure sensor is the one you need. And, if that is the case; then the $1,000 plus dealership price for the module is simply GM's way of robbing the public (because the pump only costs less than $200). I've seen this kind of pricing before, on Metro dealership parts.

    Now, they may have some kind of weird connector in that assembly that self destructs when you try to replace the sensor; or a secret sensor which is not available separately (which I rather doubt) but otherwise it would be practical to just buy a new fuel tank pressure sensor. However, it would be a safer bet to just buy a complete fuel tank from a 2001 Metro at a wrecking yard. It would be important to make VERY sure the tank came from a 2001 model car (unless the wrecking yard has an interchange book that clearly states that other year Metro tanks are interchangeable). And many wrecking yards have a hotline, through which they can put out a call for a specific part to other yards in the vicinity, or there are also nationwide hotlines. But there is always the risk that someone at the wrecking yard ignores your request, and pulls a tank from a different year Metro. So you have to be extra careful about that.

    I hope that helps!

  • Thanks a ton! i appreciate all your help, i sucessfully swapped the fuel module with one i found in a salvage yard and it fixed the problem for the most part; performance is back and car runs as it should. one last problem however, the pump has been having an intermittent problem; it fails to bring the system up to pressure before the starter turns. it can take up to ten minutes sometimes before i hear the little whirr sound the pump makes when priming the fuel lines. i suspect that it is an electrical problem somwhere most likely a bad connection or something like that but i really don't know. if so, where should i start looking, and if not, else what should i be looking for?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I would make VERY sure that the ground wire for the tank, and for the fuel pump is solidly bolted to a surface that has been scraped clean of corrosion or any debris. In addition, if the body at that point has become substantially corroded, I would run a dedicated, 12 gauge ground lead from the pump back to the battery ground cable. Similar attention should be given to any plug in connectors in the pump supply circuit. The cleanliness of the fuse for the fuel pump circuit is equally important. If those measures do not correct the problem, I would replace the relay for the fuel pump.

    I'm glad you had some success, and I hope this completes the job.

  • I have a 1991 Geo Metro LSI, 2 door hatchback. I cannot find a distributor cap that fits. All references from part stores including the chevy dealership gives out the smaller diameter model. I need the slightly larger one. Which cap goes with what motor. My distributor cap I have now is about to die. I need to find one that fits and I am at a loss. Being a girl dosen't help the guys behind the counter look at me like (what a dumb girl). My car is my everything, and its dying on me. HELP :sick:
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    The Geo Metro 1.0 and 1.3 liter motors each take very different distributor caps. The 1.0 liter motor has 3 cylinders, and takes a distributor cap that has 3 spark plug wire sockets on it (for the wires which go to the 3 spark plugs on the 1.0 engine). I believe that is the cap which everybody has been showing you; because the 1.3 liter 4 cylinder motor did not come out in the Metro until 1992.

    The 1.3 liter motor has 4 cylinders, and its distributor cap has 4 spark plug wire sockets. Because of the additional wire socket, this cap probably is slightly larger in diameter than the cap for the 3 cylinder motor.

    I believe that, if you go to a parts store and ask for a cap to fit a 1992 Metro, with the 1.3 liter 4 cylinder motor; they will give you a cap that fits your car.

    It may well be that the manufacturing label on your door jamb states that the car was manufactured in 1991. Your registration certificate may also say 1991. However, the year of manufacture is not always the same as the vehicle's model year. The 1992 model year cars probably began to be produced in September 1991 (or possibly even a month or two before September). Manufacturers do that every year, so that the new models will arrive at the dealerships before the new year begins.

    There originally was a white label with tune up and emission information on it, on the underside of the car's hood. On this label is listed the vehicle model year, for which this car was certified. And that is the year model which you need to use when buying parts; regardless of the year in which the car was manufactured. In addition, if your car has 4 spark plugs, your car has the 1.3 liter engine. If that is the case, you do NOT have a 1.0 liter engine. And if you say "1.0 or 1.3 liter engine"; it will cause much needless confusion. It is necessary to specifically know which engine size your car has, in order to ask for the right parts; since many parts are not interchangeable between those 2 engines.

    I hope this helps!!!
  • hi. just bought a 96 metro 2dr for my daughter and have a few questions.

    1) it has a 1.3 ltr engine and i'll be darned if i can find the fuel rail. it's supposed to have efi, but i can only find a carb. this can't be right, can it?

    2) the car is from florida and the top of the dash is very faded. how to fix?
  • PFFlyer@EdmundsPFFlyer@Edmunds Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,808
    Hopefully a Metro owner will chime in here, but until then another place you might want to post your questions would be in the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion on the Maintenance and Repair board.

    Sometimes it can be hard to find fellow owners of an older vehicle, but the savvy folks that hang out on M&R are well versed in automotive knowledge and always willing to help!


    Moderator - Hatchbacks & Hybrid Vehicles

  • I have a 1992 Geo Metro with a 1.0L, 3 cyl engine. Engine runs great, but the auto transmission has attitude problems comparative to that of a human teenager. That being said, here's my problem.....Sometimes my transmission will go into gear and shift correctly when driving, and sometimes it won't. When it won't, it's as if it's stuck in 3rd gear. When this happens I have to drop it into L and work my way up to D shifting it manually. A "mechanic" has told me that mechanically, my tranny looks great and that the problem is the auto transmission control module. I'm good with that, but where is it, and what does it look like? The mechanic seem to think that it's on the right side of the steering column???? but not sure. Any ideas? If you've had a like problem how did you fix it?
  • How did you obtain the ring gear and pinion for your manual transmission? From a used trans or was it new. Part Number?
  • I got it second hand. It's from a group of guys who soup up their cars. They install lower geared 3 cyl. ring and pinion. Perfect condition. They will swap a 4 cyl for a three for free. The ring and pinion that is.
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