Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevrolet/Geo Metro



  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    The Canada classification in the part listing does not refer to the country where it was made; it refers to the country where the car was intended to be marketed. If this car is a U.S. model, there will be an emission label on the underside of the hood, which lists the tune up settings, and also says the car meets U.S. emission laws for 1995 model year new motor vehicles; there will also be a label on the doorframe which, besides listing the country of origin, will say "This vehicle meets all U.S. Federal specifications for 1995 passenger cars" or something similar. If it is a Canadian model, the label will say something to that effect.

    Rock Auto online ( carries ignition parts for both U.S. and Canadian model Metros. And their prices are better than anyone else on quality parts.

    But regardless; if the pick up has 213 ohms resistance, it passes the test. The ignition module is a separate unit, which is a small black plastic box with three terminals in the connector, and is mounted near the coil on the firewall.

    It is normal to get a weak spark when testing the coil without the ignition module in the circuit. One way to test the module is to connect a dwell meter to the negative lead in the harness plug at the coil (the one which does not have battery on it when the plug is disconnected from the coil) (If you read voltage on both the wires at the coil; disconnect the plug from the ignition module, and then test to see which of the coil leads has battery power after that). and crank the engine while watching the meter. The plug must be reconnected to the coil in order to test the module, so after you identify the negative wire, you may need to pierce the insulation on the wire with a pin, in order to get a contact. If you don't get a dwell reading of some value, then the module is defective.

    Another way to test the module is to disconnect the harness plug at the coil, and connect a voltmeter or a 12 volt bulb between the two terminals in the plug. Then crank the engine, and see if the voltmeter reading fluctuates rapidly between zero and 12 volts, or the bulb flashes regularly. If you don't get any switching from the module while the engine cranks; the module is defective.

    I hope you didn't forget to connect the plug from the distributor to the harness. That would definitely prevent it from starting. Another possible issue is that the battery ground terminal MUST be connected to BOTH the engine and to a clean bolt in the fender well. And a third issue is that there is some kind of anti-theft feature built into the Metro ignition system; which will shut down the spark, if you try to bypass the ignition switch.
  • GACIIGACII Posts: 5
    The car sticker says "meets us emmission standards." Thanks for the info I will check that out, however there is another wrinkle. I had the car block up for the overhaul and I needed to move the car to make room for another project so I took the car off the blocks and thought I would try one more time - hope springs eternal. The car started almost immediately and ran for about five minutes. I was checking for leaks etc. when the engine stopped - no noise no warning and no spark. At least I know that the problem is not with the overhaul as the engine seemed to run fine. I will let you know what I find with the module. GACII
  • GACIIGACII Posts: 5
    I checked the module as you suggested. The battery is a little low so the voltages are also a little low considering the -2 deg C temperature outside. When I pulled the coil plug and measured the voltage between the ternminals, it read 11.75 (with a DVOM) when cranking it dropped to about 8 V and varied slightly (7.6 to 8.2). I decided to try an old analog meter and, with the ignition switch on, the voltage read about 3V and when I cranked the engine the needle hardly moved. I also tried a test lamp with no light evident. Based on your previous post, it appears to be an ignition module at fault. I am confused by the Rock Auto parts list and the car manuf. classification. The picture of the ACDelco Part # D6140 (#96067829) has the same numbers and appearance as the one on the car but the listing says for Canadian vehicles. The car has US EPA certification and should therefore be non-Canadian??? The first character of the serial number is 2. The problem then is which part is correct? All the modules look like they would fit the car but only the ACDelco Part # D6140 (#96067829) has the same numbers on the pictured part. Help! GACII
  • I have a 92 metro that won't fire, it has spark and can smell fuel. It has done this before but go out the next day and it fires right off but have noticed my fuel milage has declined lately. Can someone help me.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Try a set of new spark plugs and a new distributor cap. The Metro engine is more sensitive to spark plug age and gap, distributor cap condition, and plug brand than any car I have ever seen. NAPA parts stores have the best quality distributor cap; which makes it well worth the somewhat higher price. I would recommend either Champion # 3405 Platinum Power, or Champion # 7332 Double Platinum plugs.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    There is some confusion in what you wrote. The AC Delco replacement part #D1640 does not have the original equipment part # 96067829 that you listed. That part has original equipment part # 19017167.

    The AC Delco part that has the original equipment part # 96067829 is their replacement part # D566. And that is the part which has numbers on it in the picture. It is also about $166 cheaper than the #D1640.

    But it really doesn't matter whether the part you get has the same numbers on it or not. All of those modules will work. Judging from the OE numbers; I expect the # E1993, which is even less expensive, is an earlier design; and the # D566 is a later (and thus hopefully upgraded) design. But there's no way of knowing what the actual difference is between these modules; or whether the less expensive Standard Ignition and Airtex parts are as good or not.

    Incidentally; you might be interested to note that there are three categories in Rock Auto's Metro listings which list the same type of part: "Distributor transistor unit"; "Ignition Control Module"; and "Ignitor". #D566 is listed under the "ignition control module" category as being intended for Canadian vehicles which have the Z49 engine option; but under the "ignitor" category; it is the only item listed, and it doesn't say anything about Canada there. So I expect that most Canadian Metros did not have the Z49 engine option; and that that particular engine option used the module from the American model Metro.

    Alternately, the "distributor transistor unit" listing includes a Beck Arnley module which looks different, because it is shown upside down, and is mounted on a large heat sink; but I'm sure that is the same unit. Beck Arnley supplies parts which are manufactured by the original equipment Japanese companies. They are often of better quality than the U.S. made "equivalents." So I personally would buy the Beck Arnley unit, and mount the heat sink on the firewall. But if I were to buy any other unit; it would be the AC Delco #D566.
  • Just took my 2000 Metro (125K) to a local Meineke for front brake job. Ten miles (and one cold night) later, a thumping, sort of wobbling noise developed in the passenger side wheel. No hint of this after taking it out of shop.

    Two questions: Can this be attributed to anything other than front end parts (CV joint, ball joints, etc.)?

    Could it have been caused by the normal take-off-the-wheel-and-replace-the-shoes kind of thing?

    I'm not happy about this, and not too eager to pay for front end stuff that was OK until 24 hours ago.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Sometimes, if snow becomes packed into a front wheel, it will cause thumping and wobbling noises, until it melts or is thrown off. Similarly; if the wheel bolts were not properly tightened, that could cause such things. So it is a good idea to look at the lug bolts, and pull and push hard on the top edge of the wheel; to see if it is loose.

    If a foreign object has become wrapped around a wheel, it can also cause such a thing. So could a tire which has gone flat. For those reasons, it is important to thoroughly inspect that wheel (including rolling the car far enough so that you can check the entire surface of the tire). Sometimes running a hand along the tire tread will reveal a lump in the tire, which may not be initially apparent to the eye.

    Just removing and replacing a wheel will not have such an effect (as long as the bolts were all installed and tightened). But if the sliders in one of the calipers were not properly lubricated, or were not installed properly; that could do it. My experience with Meineke is that they honor their warranty. It would be worth going back there, and seeing if they can find a mistake they made. You are not obligated to have them do any additional work, if you are uncomfortable with them.
  • Hi, I have a 2000 Metro lsi 1.3L auto, that now has a bad cyl (low compression). I've been wanting to swap it out for a 3 cyl and think now is the time. Is it an easy swap to go to a mid to late 90's 1.0L? Is there a bell housing issue if the 1.0L had a 5 speed. What about mounting points, are they the same? Any other issues?
  • You should specify if you are going manual to manual or to automatic.
    3 to 4 is quite common among the bloggers on teamswift. Even to double overhead cam from Suzuki.
    Basically you will have two mounting points to watch out for and the engine harness with the attached ECU, Map and other paraphenelia. Keep all driving shafts also. If you can retain the final drive gear from the 4 cylinder and install it in the 3 banger tranny. You will be amazed at the fuel economy ralised.
    It is not a hard swap to do and I wish you success.
  • Thanks for the response. I will rsearch the "teamswift" site for more details. I wanted to keep the automatic from my 1.3L but also wanted to gain the economy from 1 less cyl. I'm not quite sure how saving the final gear drive from one would work in the other... (different trannies). But I'm still sourcing a donner car so I have time to learn. Thanks again.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I think you'll be very disappointed at the economy of a 3 cyl engine; when driving through an automatic transmission. The EPA rated the 3 cyl engines with automatics at TEN MPG LESS than the same car with a 5 speed. The reason this is true is because the small 3 cyl engine was designed to pull a very lightweight car; and the driveline was also optimized for the least possible load and drag. The 3 speed automatic has two less gears than the 5 speed manual, and thus places a much higher load on the engine during acceleration. And that is why all the fuel is wasted. I personally believe the automatic transmission on the 3 cyl Metro was only added to satisfy the demands of U.S. drivers; who typically don't understand and often don't care about the engineering tradeoffs that are necessary to get peak performance and best fuel economy.

    If you need an automatic; the larger 4 cylinder engine will have a much easier job in that environment, and will definitely have a longer service life. It also will give very similar; if not better fuel economy than the overstressed 3 cylinder; when pulling an automatic. I have repeatedly seen 3 cylinder Metro engines go bad at relatively low mileages; when coupled to automatic transmissions. But it's your call, and your money. I'm just a mechanic who knows the bottom line for that story.
  • GACIIGACII Posts: 5
    I got and installed the ignition module - no start. I decided to disengage all the electrical connectors I had moved or touched during the rebuild. What I found was a loose bolt holding a ground wire on the back of the intake manifold - I had pulled on the wire previously and it seemed tight but there are two ground connections inches apart and I pulled on the wire as if there was a single connection. The car started immediately and runs great. In a previous post you mentioned these wires and I checked but...... I hope my lack of attention helps someone else. Thanks for your help and insight.
  • I think some ignition coils from some old Mazda and Honda models will solve any problem on the Metro.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Them old coils sure worked on my car. It run better den it ever did befo.
  • I have a 95 metro as well, and it has the same rolling idle, and loss of mileage (from about 47 to 35 or so). I am wondering if you figured out the problem, and if it was the EGR valve sticking. Thanks
  • ki7whki7wh Posts: 3
    The metal pipe that connects to the back of the water pump has pulled out and I am having a heck of a time trying to get it seated given the o-ring around it. Any ideas or tips to get it in?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    If the o-ring is old; it may have swelled. In that case, a new o-ring may be an easier fit; but you'll need to get it from a Chevy dealer (or possibly a Suzuki dealer), as it may well be a non-standard or metric size. I would also suggest removing the old o-ring, and thoroughly cleaning out all debris from behind and under it, and lubricating it with a light coating of silicone grease or WD-40 before trying to reinstall the pipe. Be sure the pipe does not have any burrs on it, and is not deformed. You may also be able to clean up the surface of the pipe with a file.
  • 96 Geo/Metro 1.3 engine runs good.engine light stays on want pass inspection code PO753 [shift solenoid a electrieal shows up] have changed the 2 solenoid in bottom of tranny[not cheap] didn't help if you take off in drive it acts like it's stuck in 3rd start off in low work to drive works good.Any ideas
  • Since you say that the car won't turn over, it very well could be your starter. The gear teeth do mesh with the fly wheel teeth. It sounds like the shop that did your clutch owes you some work. Now my question to you, I also have a 1991 geo metro lsi hatchback. I cannot find a distributor cap that will fit, where ever I go the cap diameter is to small. Have you had problems finding parts for your motor. Please email me with anything I love my car and its going to die if I don't find a cap :cry:
Sign In or Register to comment.