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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

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Comments

  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    edited June 2012
    Thank you for the updated details. I would also recommend using the 1992 oil pan; as that eliminates the crankshaft position sensor; which will not be used, and which protrudes from the 1996 pan.

    At the bottom of the text on the underhood emission label; there is a note which reads something like "This vehicle conforms to all US emission regulations for 1996 model year new motor vehicles sold in the state of California."

    This is where the distinction between California and 49 state emissions can be found.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Before you start switching the motor; I would STRONGLY urge you to run a compression test on the 1996 motor. The stock compression on this motor is 195 psi. The minimum allowable limit is 165 psi. There also must not be more than 10% difference between the lowest and highest cylinder pressures.

    All too many attractive looking Metro engines have compression that is out of specs. This is the result of driving the car too slowly in 4th or 5th gear under load (due to not downshifting) or mixing brands of oil; either when the oil and filter are changed, or when oil is added betwen changes; or running at high speed, accelerating hard or climbing steep grades before the motor has warmed up to normal operating temperature; or using unsuitable spark plugs or low octane fuel in what is basically a highly tuned motor.
  • Thank you zaken1 for your help on Venza vs. LexusRX350.
    rr
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    edited August 2012
    You're welcome; but from this unusual location which you chose to contact me; it seems like you may be having difficulty navigating around the Edmunds website (either that; or you are an avid tourist and explorer). I mentinon this because when someone wishes to express appreciation for the help they have received with their "answers" question; the normal way to do that is to log onto the original question (which you can find at http://answers.edmunds.com/question-Are-Toyota-Venza-Lexus-RX-350-vehicles-15983- - 9.aspx) go to the answer you feel was most helpful; and click the "accept as best answer" button. This awards points to the person who wrote that answer. Those points determine our rankings on the site. It is also customary to click the "thumbs up" button under the answer you like; as that awards more points. But I still appreciate your going out of your way to contact me and express appreciation!!!

    P.S. I was born in New York (But I have lived in California since 1952).
  • rfinstonrfinston Posts: 1
    I just went through this issue with a '94 Metro 1.0L.
    The unused pin is A, and so B and C are on that same side of the connector. D, E, and F are on the opposite side, D is adjacent to A, etc. When you do jump from D to E you should notice the timing will retard, then set the timing to 5 BTDC and remove the jump. The timing will jump up to about 7-0 BTDC.
  • dgarrdgarr Posts: 1
    Hi zaken1: I find your recommendations to be very insightful/helpful. I have had the exact same issue with the exact same model/year car as tvmogul. I do have one question with regards to your item #8 (8> If someone has moved the distributor position; in an ill advised effort to change the timing; it could cause this problem. The ignition timing cannot be adjusted on this motor; but moving the distributor position will change the rotor air gap; which will cause the motor to cut out on acceleration.) I don't know the history of my '98 Metro and can only guess that this may have been done at some point before I bought the car 3 months ago. Is there a way to check for the correct rotor air gap and how can the distributor be reset to the correct factory preset position?
    I have no access to an engine analyzer or even a tach meter, but I can take the car into a mechanic who can reset the distributor if you can provide the needed specs. Thanks, dgarr
  • I guess since you are asking you are missing diagram inside hood. Mine is missing also but, I found a factory service manual. Check on amazon and eBay for used manual. I paid $45.00 for a good used manual. If restoring you will probably need. I will dig out my manual and try to make copy of routing. I am not sure how to get it to you though. I don't see how to do a file attachment.
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