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  • merckxmerckx Posts: 565
    An Amazon has immense appeal,but again,when one is found here,it's rather expensive......All i can surmise is that kiving in an oceanfront rersort town,all the "sophisticates" are causing high prices....i've never seen an Amazon for less than about $9,000.

    i had a chance to buy a 1971 BMW Bavaria,but the seller(whom i worked with)wanted $8,000....Before I could gently tell him that was about 2.5 times what it was worth,he got rear-ended in it.....But boy,it was a stunning car.....My definition of a really fun to drive car.......

    Until something really enticing comes along,I'm just waiting until my current hobby car,my 2001 Catera,gets old enough to be interesting..
  • BMW Bavaria? That's the very definition of a money-pit. Bad cars, don't ever buy one IMO. Don't even take one for free, you'll lose money.

    Alfa GTV 1750/2000? Sorry the market has run away on them. Figure $15,000--$20,000 for something nice.
  • fintailfintail Posts: 32,917
    You might have do a little traveling and buy a west coast car to keep away from those ailments, and then you'll have to be sure to keep it dry. Old MB do rust as well as any other car, and the 1960s dash pads crack pretty easily yeah.
  • fezofezo Posts: 9,195
    Renault LeCar -- you could buy 1/2 dozen of them for the price of one very tired BMW 2002, and then cannibalize them into one possibly good running car.

    Ah! Bring back the old advice that it's better to own seven $100 cars than one $700 car....
  • piCARsopiCARso Posts: 16
    Back at post 10 you mentioned a Ford Falcon Futura as a possible choice. Look at the 64' convertible item number 170292403101 on ebay. Would this be a good choice for a Sunday driver ? It looks really clean, small but would it be fun to drive? How is that 6 cyl. engine, reliable ? Without a lot of money right now I want something for the summer that is period but won't have to spend a lot of money on for repairs. This is the second go around, what should I expect to pay do you think. Is it a piece of junk ?
  • Well it looks clean but you know, a 6 cylinder auto with the 170 cid engine is going to be a very sedate car to putt around in. Dealer's feedback is good.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,594
    I have no idea on value, but it looks like a nice little car. The 170 straight six isn't a bad engine, but is pretty weak....maybe 110 hp by that time? And keep in mind that's the old gross hp rating. By today's net standards, we're talking 85-90 hp.

    I can't see the shift quadrant well enough to see whether it's a 2-speed or 3-speed automatic. Neither one is going to be a barn-burner, but hopefully it's the 3-speed! I'd guess 0-60 would come up in around 17-20 seconds. But for nice, leisurely cruising, it should suffice.

    Also, I'm not sure how the later years of the first-gen Falcon were, as they beefed up its looks a bit for 1964-65, but the earlier models were ultra-fragile. They also scare me, because the puncture-prone drop-in gas tank sits about 2 inches from the rear bumper! In a rear-end collision, these things are almost as bad as a Pinto. In fact, considering how long Ford had been making these explosion-prone cars, I'm surprised it took until the late 70's and the Pinto for them to finally get called on it!
  • You can ask him to read you the transmission code on the door plate. That'll tell you if you have a C4 (good) or a Cruise=o-matic (not so good).
  • texasestexases Posts: 5,424
    My first car was a '65 Mustang with a 170, but a 4 sp. manual. Certainly not fast, so the auto would be slower still. You would need to drive one to see how you like it, it requires a major change in driving style. It was reliable for 6 years, just required frequent tune ups (points and plugs, set the timing).

    These Fords were rustbuckets, so you'd have to check carefully for rust. Mine rusted heavily, to the point when a relative was driving it, the fuel line let go, and the flames came back through the 'firewall'. Just need to check. I echo Andre's comments on the convertibles, not a lot of body strength, so any rust is an even bigger issue. Sellers sometimes try to conceal it with a fresh coat of paint and bondo. This one sure looks good, but you'll want pictures of the floor pan from below, they often rust out under the pedal area (from water dripping through rusted-out ventilation area sheet metal). You'll see carpet!
  • piCARsopiCARso Posts: 16
    News from the dealer, Ford O Matic, two speed code 3. It has floor and quarter panel work but no holes now. Unknown drive- train rebuilds but it runs and shifts excellant. The vin number tells me 6 cyl. 170 cid, horsepower 101, carbs 1-1bbl, compression 8.7:1. Engine- 101hp economical engine offering good performance while delivering 22 mpg off reg. gas. 16 hours and counting at $5900.
  • xrunner2xrunner2 Posts: 3,062
    Wife bought a 1969 Barracuda 340S new. I had a 68 Firebird Formula 400 at the time and my seat of pants thought that the Firebird was a little faster. The 340S had a nice growl on acceleration. I would guess it did 0-60 in about 7.5 seconds.

    The Barracuda had the handling package and was real nice to drive enthusiastically. Whille the engine and trans were bullitproof, there were numerous other problems with the car. Some she got covered under warranty. Others came up after warranty. Got rid of the car after 2+ years. That car was the worst car that we have ever owned in our lives and caused us to swear off any Chrysler product for life.

    Would not recommend buying any Barracude, if any still exist.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,120
    "That car was the worst car that we have ever owned in our lives and caused us to swear off any Chrysler product for life."

    Since the engine and transmission were bullet-proof, the engine emitted a nice growl, and you praised the handling package, what specific issues caused you to have such a strong negative reaction to Chrysler products?
  • xrunner2xrunner2 Posts: 3,062
    When we got rid of it, we joked that we should write notes, maybe a book, about all of the problems. I will ask wife later tonight to try to recount. But, here are some that come to mind.

    Found oil spots on garage floor beneath differential at about 6 month point. Dealer replaced differential, housing had a crack.

    At about 1.3 year age, noticed braking diminishment, longer stops, a little more pedal pressure needed. Examined front brake calipers and found that on one side, don't remember which, that piston was rusted shut in the bore. Had full shop manual and it advised to use a Chrysler part number piston remover to pull out piston. Went to Plymouth dealer and bought part, pulled out piston. Cylinder bore was not badly pitted, so used fine emery to polish bore. At about 1.8 year point, the other side brake caliper piston rusted shut and had to repair. Was familiar with taking off calipers, refacing rotors, putting new pads on front of 68 Firebird. Had 68 Firebird for about 10 years and never encountered rusted caliper pistons. Chrysler engineering very poor in bad design not being able to keep moisture out of cylinder bores.

    At about 1.5 year point, and on vacation in Colo, votage regulator failed and had to be replaced.

    At about 1.2 year point, and while driving on vacation, noticed strange sensation under right foot and gas pedal came off of lever/mount. Quickly pulled off on shoulder and was able to put it back together. Don't remeber any specifics on parts, perhaps there was a C ring involved, can't remember. This was probably the most outragous, unbelievable thing to happen on that car.

    Therre was much more. Maybe wife has better memory.

    Stay away from Barracudas.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 21,594
    I have heard that those early disc brake setups that Chrysler used were pretty bad. I just had drum brakes on my Darts. 9" on the '69, which had a slant six and 10" on the '68, with a 318. I tended to go through front brake shoes about every 10-15K miles, rear was around every 15-20K.
  • texasestexases Posts: 5,424
    "101hp economical engine offering good performance while delivering 22 mpg off reg. gas"

    I don't think it has what I'd call 'good performance', you'll be the slowest car on the road, but it'll be fine for leisurly drives on city streets and back roads. Just stay off the freeway! And I'd sure want to take a careful look at it for rust.
  • The bid is about there for real value....I'm thinkin' fair market with issues noted is about $6500 tops. It would be nice to have a photo of the repair work. Professional? A stolen detour sign riveted into the floor?
  • piCARsopiCARso Posts: 16
    With the mesmerizing chant of the auctioneer from Barrett Jackson in the background I must send my appreciation for your astute observations concerning that Ford Futura. A second email to the seller pushing for rust details elicited this response : " Yes, it has had extensive underbody patches on all floors and heavy undercoating, quarter and rockers have patches and bondo. This is a very reputable 100 % positive ebay seller and with all the pictures and detailed positive info the rust issues were not mentioned. A good example for buyer beware. How easy to be seduced by the shiny surface. It ended at less then 7, reserve not met. The seller informed me that the buy me now price was $16,950. That seems a bit extreme. Not knowing the reserve during the bidding it is hard to show restraint, the clock ticking , the bid sitting for days at less then 6. I know that is what they count on. A good learning experience. The search continues. Thank you again for your knowledge and input, you hit this one right on the head.
  • $16,950??

    HAHAHAHAHAHA.....You could buy a fairly decent (#3 condition) Falcon Sprint V-8 convertible for that.....and maybe even a 6 cylinder Mustang convertible.

    Get real Duffy!
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,664
    Looks good. Color's not the best, price seems fair enough.
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