Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

18911131461

Comments

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Glad to hear you got it fixed, and yes it is unusual on a new vehicle. I'd suspect that only one rotor was bad, but quite properly they replaced them both.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Amazing what happens when the warranty expires! :sick:

    Could be one (or several) of many things. First step is to remove the diff cover and make an inspection of both the components, and the oil that drains out.

    Suspects in your problem will be worn bearings, worn gears, worn clutch plates (if you have an LSD/Trac Loc), low or contaminated oil.

    You have had the axles serviced as required haven't you?
  • glassgirlglassgirl Posts: 8
    Okay after 2 days in the shop they said "nothing" was wrong and that I am getting 16.9 miles to the gallon. We shall see. They must have done something if I am going to get that many miles.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Big difference between 6-7 and 16.9. Did they say how they arrived at that incredibly exact figure? At least it should be easy to see if things have changed. Did they fix your oil leak as well?
  • My 93 wrangler seems to have the same leaking problem as your 89. The water is actually coming from the heater ducting. There is an easy fix though. There is a drain hose located on the passenger side of the firewall in the engine compartment. This hoze sometimes plugs up with debris. Just pull off the hose and make sure that there is nothing in it. I live in Oregon too and it is amazing where you sometimes find pine needles.
  • glassgirlglassgirl Posts: 8
    This is how they said they fixed it. They put it up on the racks and "ran" it for about 100 miles, after writing the mileage down. They said nothing was leaking anywhere and they couldn't find anything wrong and that their estimation was around 16.9 mpg. They filled it back up and sent it back to me, we will see how it goes. I have the mileage wrote down myself. Nice that they didn't charge me huh?
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Posts: 250
    Thing they did to get the gas mileage is so dumb I can't even think of anything to say about it. Maybe something will come to me later. Meanwhile, find another place to get it serviced.

    Terry
  • mgainesmgaines Posts: 1
    Took my Jeep (2005 Wrangler, Auto.) to the dealer due to the check engine light coming on. I would bog down around 4.5 rpm under load( usually going up a grade/hill) took them a week but I got it back yesterday. They replaced the cam shaft, so far it's gravy however now if I shift into reverse it dies and my a/c only blows out the defrost vents ( really sucks average temp where I live is 100 deg. + and it's getting hot now) so any suggestions would be appreciated. I would like to know if I would be able to do any of the work myself, I wasn't very impressed with the "service" from the local service dept. Thanks again.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Thing they did to get the gas mileage is so dumb I can't even think of anything to say about it.

    You've got that right; what a bunch of morons. I bet those imbeciles measure precipitation by weighing a pile of dirt before and after a rain shower...
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    ......however now if I shift into reverse it dies and my a/c only blows out the defrost vents........

    I'll take a chance and assume that the a/c isn't a problem only in reverse. ;)

    It sounds like a vacuum problem, as they shouldn't have been anywhere near the HVAC unit to replace the camshaft. Could be a damaged vac hose, or one improperly replaced. (Vacuum actuators are used to control the airflow direction doors in the HVAC unit).

    As for dying in reverse, it could be connected with the aforementioned leak, or it could be other things. It's possible that you'll have fault codes which will help with the diagnosis, and you can that checked out at Autozone for free.

    Unless you can spot a loose vacuum hose under the hood, I'd let the dealer take care of it to preserve your warranty coverage. If he messes up it's Jeep's problem, if you mess up it's yours!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I was going to say "Words fail me!", but they don't............I just can't say them here! :mad:

    RUN, as fast as you can to another dealer.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    I bet those imbeciles measure precipitation by weighing a pile of dirt before and after a rain shower...

    That would require some thought. It's more likely they would just count the number of turkeys looking up with their mouths open. ;)

    tidester, host
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    That would require some thought. It's more likely they would just count the number of turkeys looking up with their mouths open.

    Good point! LOL!!!
  • mmitschmmitsch Posts: 7
    I was driving home tonight and when I went to change grears I lost tension in the clutch pedal and couldn't change gears. I managed to get the Jeep home by shutting the engine off, manually changing to 2nd, and then starting the Jeep up and going (couldn't change while running). Anybody ever had this happen? Any clues as to what might be wrong or what I should check? It's a 99 Sahara with a 4.0l 6 cyl. and 5 speed transmission.

    Let me know.

    Thanks!

    Mike
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Sounds like a failure of the clutch hydraulics, though it could be something as simple as the pedal becoming disconnected from the master cylinder. It's unlikely to be the clutch itself as it wasn't slipping at all. Shouldn't be too expensive to fix.
  • mmitschmmitsch Posts: 7
    Thanks for the response! Do you have any schematic or know a site where I can get a diagram or drawing of what and where I check for the pedal connections. I am unsure of hydraulics, but the feel of the problem when it happened is like a cable broke.

    At any rate, I really appreciate you help and kind response!

    Mike
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Can't post a '.pdf' here, which would be needed to show the diagrams, but you can get access to the full Factory Workshop Manual online for a year for $25 from AllData.

    Here's how the FSM describes the hydraulics:

    "HYDRAULIC LINKAGE COMPONENTS
    The hydraulic linkage consists of a clutch master
    cylinder with integral reservoir, a clutch slave cylinder
    and an interconnecting fluid line.
    The clutch master cylinder push rod is connected
    to the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder push rod is
    connected to the clutch release fork. The master cylinder
    is mounted on the driver side of the dash panel
    adjacent to the brake master cylinder and booster
    assembly. This positioning is similar for both left and
    right hand drive models."


    First check is to remove the master cylinder cap and see if you've lost fluid.
  • omega5omega5 Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 jeep wrangler and recently when ever I accelerate, in any gear, I hear a wierd pattering sound, if I had to describe it, it sounds like a childs bike who has a baseball card in the spokes, but muffled, and it continues evertime I depress the gas pedal. Are there any suggestions for what this problem could be?
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    It sounds like it could be an exhaust leak.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,613
    yes it does. Didn't that model have some issues with cracked exhaust manifolds or did I just make that up?

    Anyway, exhaust leak is a very good guess.

    MODERATOR

  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    As an owner of a '98, I know all about the exhaust manifold issue! Didn't I read that it affected engines from something like '91? I could have that wrong, but I know it was a long time before they changed the design.

    Definitely check yours - mine sounded like what I think you are describing. We ended up ignoring it for probably a year, until it needed a smog check.
  • Hi All,
    Im thinking of buying a used Wrangler from someone in the area. Its a '98 Sport, and I dont know a hell of a lot else about it or its history. Drove it a little bit, it handled as I expected. Upon inspecting underneath I noticed a LOT of rust and corrosion on the brakes and calipers. Is this normal for wranglers to have these parts deteriorate? I get the impression that this car doesnt get driven very often, and sits for weeks at a time which Im sure doesnt help. But I was surpised to see this kind of corrosion. Anyway, I was just wondering if anyone else has seen this. I really dont know much about Jeeps, never bothered researching them, always liked them, and Im looking for something different than a boring road car. Thanks! :D
  • mmitschmmitsch Posts: 7
    Thanks SO much for your reply. Unfortunately my problem is a big one. I took my Jeep to our mechanic (he's trustworthy) and it springs had come off the friction plate (I think) and caused me clutch problems, etc., etc., etc.. It is at the doctor now and, with parts and labor, I guess it all will come to around $1,000 to fix. Started as a noise and now it's a financial boom!

    If you or anybody else knows how much clutch replacements usually run let me know (maybe I can negotiate it this sounds too much).

    Mike
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Anything other than light surface corrosion is not normal and obviously poses a safety risk. Good news is that re-manufactured Wrangler calipers aren't expensive.

    It could have been used in an area that salts the roads in the winter, or maybe it's been used on the beach.

    Wranglers definitely aren't boring though!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .....springs had come off the friction plate (I think) and caused me clutch problems.....

    Actually that doesn't make a lot of sense. If the springs on the friction plate had come adrift it would be very noisy but it shouldn't affect the pedal feel. If there was a problem with the spring on the pressure plate then the pedal might go the the floor, but the clutch would slip badly and you wouldn't be able to drive it. As I remember it, your problem was that the pedal went slack and the clutch wouldn't disengage, so you started it in second gear and drove slowly home.

    How was it diagnosed? The only real way to check the friction plate is to remove the transmission and strip the clutch assembly.

    Labor costs vary so much based on location and type of shop that I couldn't price it for you, apart from saying that $1K seems high. A complete clutch kit (pressure plate, friction plate, and release bearing) costs around $150, and labor should be around 4-5 hours. Your best bet is to make a few phone calls and get several estimates for fitting a complete replacement Wrangler clutch.
  • jt828jt828 Posts: 12
    can someone help me with some info on replacing the wheel bearing on drivers side front wheel i cannot figure out how to get everything apart 97 tj
    :sick:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    What you may be missing is that the bearing housing and hub are supplied as a complete assembly. Some people have managed to match the bearings and have them pressed in and out, but it has to be done with some precision and it isn't easy. However, there are non-OE hubs available that are better priced than at the dealer.

    Here's the FSM instructions:

    "HUB BEARING REMOVAL

    (1) Raise and support the vehicle.
    (2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
    (3) Remove the brake caliper, rotor and ABS wheel
    speed sensor, refer to Group 5 Brakes.
    (4) Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer and axle
    hub nut.
    (5) Remove the hub bearing mounting bolts from
    the back of the steering knuckle. Remove hub bearing
    from the steering knuckle and off the axle shaft.

    INSTALLATION

    (1) Install the hub bearing and brake dust shield
    to the knuckle.
    (2) Install the hub bearing to knuckle bolts and
    tighten to 102 N·m (75 ft. lbs.).
    (3) Install the hub washer and nut. Tighten the
    hub nut to 237 N·m (175 ft. lbs.). Install the nut
    retainer and a new cotter pin.
    (4) Install the brake rotor, caliper and ABS wheel
    speed sensor, refer to Group 5 Brakes.
    (5) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
    (6) Remove support and lower the vehicle."


    The hardest part is usually removing the three bearing carrier mounting bolts.
  • Yeah, our roads are salted, but this looks like its really pretty bad. Ive asked around and have ben given a lot of conflicting info. one wrangler owner said his entire undercarraige is rusty, as wranglers are prone to rust. someone else said theyre supposed to be treated with something so the rust should be minimal. dangit, I dont know what to do. :mad:
  • csuttoncsutton Posts: 1
    I just took my 2003 jeep in to the shop for the same problem. The whole shifter is going to be replaced. I had to jeep mechanics look at it and they agreed that the tip of the shaft inside the shifter itself had broke off causing the shifter button not to push the locking pin down enough to allow it to shift. If you remove the cover itself which pops off around the gear shift you can slide the cover up the shaft and manually push the pin down with your thumb to get it into gear. The good news is that the whole shifter itself is only $45. The labor is quoted at $75. Hope this helps......
  • mvickmvick Posts: 2
    I own a '97 Wrangler with the 2.5L 4 cyl. While idling, driving with or without acceleration there is a NOTICEABLE hesitation in the engine. I got an engine light and had the guys at advance read it. Initially he said it was a cylinder 3 misfire. Then later the same day after replacing the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, it still ran like poop and showed another misfire (multiple cyl).
    HELP!!!!
    Thanks, Mike :confuse:
Sign In or Register to comment.