Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

1151618202161

Comments

  • Took the jeep to the 2nd dealership and they said it was normal engine noise caused by the fuel injectors. Does this sound right to anybody?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    While the injectors do make a tapping noise, I can't tell from here if that's actually what you're hearing.

    If the noise suddenly appeared, or if other Jeeps don't make it, then it's not normal and needs to be addressed.
  • Did my first modification this past weekend - a minor one albiet - I switched out rear bumpers on my '06 Unlimited. After I was done the tailgate will not close properly it seems to be mis-aligned now. It stops about an inch or 2 before close and needs a little umph to get it to close - I don't think I used the tailgate to help myself up - I did have it open for probably 5 or 6 hours while I was working in the yard between taking off the rear bumper and putting the new on - is the rear tailgate mis-aligned and if so how do I re-align.

    Thanks in advance.
  • Does you new bumper rub the bottom of the spare tire.
    You might need to shim the bumper down. This happens some times.
    Oil the hinges...10w/30 works ok.
    The trail gates on theses seem to need a little maint. now and then.
    The hinges on the TJ's are pretty sturdy but don't hang a tire bigger than a 10.50/31. If you hang anything bigger they will self distruct.
    Check the torx screws around the latch on the gate. Blue LockTite is a Jeepers best friend.
    Check the bolts on the hinges.
    As for realignment...probably not needed...
    If all else fails get an 8lb BFH (Big Farmers Hammer)
    Good luck.
  • Thanks - some times it is the simpliest things we over look - like the tire rubbing against the new bumper - :blush:

    Thanks - but hey the bumper does look good....
  • I have a 98 Wrangler and the speedometer/tach stops and starts operating at random. The airbag light comes on when this happens and the gauges freeze where they are. Any ideas on what is causing this.
    Thanks
    Kevin
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's a common problem and if you search here and on the Jeep Wrangler forum you'll find the TSB and full details.

    The short version is to remove the instrument housing and tweak the connector pins on by about 10º. Then inject a little dielectric grease into each of the corresponding sockets (about 20 in total). Re-assemble and the job's done!
  • Hey everyone. First time asking for help but have already found this forum more than useful for my 98 Jeep TJ. I think I may be having the same problem as Kelly99 with my Wrangler lunging while I'm driving only now it's also stalling out frequently. I took it to a supposed Jeep guy at a local shop who couldn't even reproduce the symptoms I mentioned. I drove it there late in the day after commuting to and from work and then another time left it there over night so they could start it in the morning and see if they could reproduce the problems when the engine was cold. They said go to a Jeep dealership who said they ran every diagnostic they could and found nothing wrong, couldn't reproduce the problems, lunging and stalling, and said it just ran like an old car...and charged me for the tests. As I drove out of the dealership, it stalled out! Called me annoyed. I'd rather fix it if I could than get another vehicle right now. It gets regular oil changes and I'm great about regular maintenance. What's the deal?
  • I was having the identical problem that Kelly99 was having. I changed the complete igniton system, not the problem! No trouble codes from the computor so I could not narrow it down that way. Changed the exhaust, Crankshaft position sensor, and fuel pump. Still had the same problem. Then I remembered that Kelly99 mentioned the exhaust leak on her exhaust manifold and some of the comments about that affecting the O2 sensor. I unplugged the O2 and it stopped cutting out. I called 1Aautoparts from the web site and when I told them that I had a jeep, he immedatly knew that I was ordering a manifold.... said it was a very common problem that Chrysler won't address. Needless to say, I changed the Exhaust Manifold and the O2 for good measure and my 98 Sahara has been running like a top. Good luck and let me know if it works for you.
    Steve :shades:
  • I will get right on it and let you know how it turns out. Thanks.
  • My 99 did the same thing...
    Every time I drove it down a bumpy road...
    The problem was the connectors on the insterment panel.
    The panel is a fairly straight forward removal.
    Just take the dash cover off and pull the inst panel out.
    The connectors need to be shimmed up so that the make positive connection. A little diaelectric grease couldn't hurt too.
    Jeep knows about this.
    There was a recall and service bullet. Fat chance getting them to admit there is a problem as the recall only involved a small number of VIN.
    Love my JEEP...Hate JEEP service...
  • Thanks for helping answer my question. I did go back and read the previous post and # 223 by mac24 was very helpful. This in fact did save me a trip to and the expense of going to the dealer.
    Thanks again
    kc
  • As I am driving, for lack of a better word, somae vapor, is wafting out of the vents. It used to stop, but now it is getting worse and not stoping. Given that the vapor appears after the car reaches operating temp I believe it is coolant evaporating due to a problem with the heater core. Assuming it is the heater core, is it difficult to replace the Heater Core? The Haynes manual does not look particularly detailed enough to the do the job. Has anyone else had this experience. Thanks

    90 Wrangler
  • I was looking at replacing my stock Carb with this Weber 34 DGE model from Quadratec. Of course the ad says it increases HP up tp 18% and fuel economy 10-20% over stock. Has anyone had any experience with updating their stock Carb? I imagine this Weber has to be better than the stock carb I have now. Just wonder if it is worth the money considering the stock one seems to be working ok right now. Thanks

    90 Wrangler
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's quite doable, but not fun. It's fiddly, frustrating and time consuming, but there's no heavy lifting or special tools needed unless you have a/c, in which case you'll have to have the system refilled afterwards.

    I sometimes think that they start with the heater core, then build the rest of the vehicle around it! ;)
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    If your present carb is running fine then count your blessings and don't mess with it. The only upgrade that really works is to go to fuel injection, but that's an expensive option. The Weber is only worthwhile if your original carb is shot.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    I sometimes think that they start with the heater core, then build the rest of the vehicle around it!

    The first generation BMW sevens were far worse; you have to remove the console, the A pillar covers, and the dash pad. Nine hours. :surprise:
  • rockyprockyp Posts: 6
    My wife's Jeep stalled out when she pulled into a driveway this weekend and now the engine light has stayed on since then. I drove it in to work today with the light on, but nothing seems to be wrong. Any ideas are appreciated!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Having the 'check engine' light on means (among other things) that the computer is holding a code that will point you in the direction of the problem. Have it read at Autozone for free.
  • smurf6smurf6 Posts: 27
    I have had the check engine light go on twice in the last 2 months. The first time it was a wire from the powertrain control module to the ldp pumb rubbed through behind the dash against the frame and the second time it was a throttle position sensor that needed to be replaced. In the past it has also come on when the gas cap wasn't sealed properly. As Mac said, it can be any number of things. If it is the gas cap, I have found the light will usually go off after a few starts.
  • I recently traded in my 2000 Jeep Wrangler (160,000 miles) for a new 2006 Jeep Wrangler. My new Jeep is a Sport model with an automatic transmission. Over the past 3 months I have experienced what seem to be "power surges" when decelerating. It occurs while I am driving and apply the brake to either slow down or stop. The engine revs and I feel the Jeep lunge forward as if the accelerator has been applied. It only lasts a split second and since I have my foot on the brake pedal, it doesn't lunge forward very much, perhaps a matter of inches if anything. It doesn't happen all the time, in fact it has only happened 3 times since I bought it 3 months ago. I have taken it to the dealer twice already and they can't diagnose the problem and therefore can't fix it. I want to get this resolved as soon as possible because it could cause an accident and the Jeep is still under warranty. Anyone ever experience this who can help me?
  • Thanks for the heads up. I am not messing with it. I do have A/C and did not even think that would be affected. I knew it could not have been as simple as Haynes made it look. I also believe they start with the heater core and build the car around it.
  • Yeah it is not shot fortunately, but it is not exactly great. Just wanted to kick the idea around. Wouldn't spend the money now when it drives pretty smooth.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I recently traded in my 2000 Jeep Wrangler (160,000 miles)............

    Always nice to hear of someone getting good use from their Jeep. Was it a reliable 160K?

    I have experienced what seem to be "power surges" when decelerating. It occurs while I am driving and apply the brake to either slow down or stop.........

    I can only give you straws to clutch at I'm afraid. The first (which you won't like, but do think about it) is that the main cause of this problem is just catching the throttle pedal with the edge of your shoe when you brake. We very often make the minimum of movement with our foot from the 'go' to 'stop' pedal, and it's usually only evident when you look at the wear pattern on the brake pedal.
    I know I'm at fault on this. :blush:

    The second reason is much less common and concerns a fault in the brake booster. What happens is that the booster uses, or allows to bleed off, more vacuum than is normal. This has the effect of mimicking an inlet manifold leak, a symptom of which is to increase engine revs. This can be a constant or intermittent fault.

    Sorry I can't be of more help, but it's especially difficult to diagnose an intermittent problem.

    Good luck!
  • Interesting and sad that this is occuring in a new 2006 especially when, if you read back over the last year, numerous Jeep owners have reported lunging problems and all that they went through. The jeeps effected have gone way back to 98's (mine) and the Chrysler defect is still ignored by the manufacturer. Search lunging problems and stalling problems in jeeps and you will hear the cycle of problems. The fact that it's happened 3 times in 3 months is not an ONLY problem. That's way too often, too soon.
  • Always nice to hear of someone getting good use from their Jeep. Was it a reliable 160K?
    I loved that Jeep and was very heartbroken to have to trade it in. I always kept up with the regular maintenance on it and it never had any major problems. The only reason I traded it in was because I drive so much I would have been over 200,000 within the next 6 months and it would only be a matter of time before I would have to start dumping money into keeping it running. I also figured it would be in my best interest to trade it now while it was still in great condition and could get a good amount for it and also get a great deal on the overstock 2006 Jeeps.
    Sorry I can't be of more help, but it's especially difficult to diagnose an intermittent problem.
    Thanks so much for your thoughts on this problem. (It is funny you should suggest it could be my foot because my brother said the same thing; however, I can tell when I "bump" the pedal and unfortunately that is not the cause of this issue.) I guess only time will tell if it will be on going problem or if it can be fixed. Thanks again.
  • Interesting and sad that this is occurring in a new 2006 especially when, if you read back over the last year, numerous Jeep owners have reported lunging problems...

    Thanks for the information. I will definitely do some more research now that I know others have experienced similar issues. I sincerely hope that there is a way to fix this problem though... I spent a lot of money custom ordering this Jeep and expected it to be in perfect condition. I am concerned that it is having this safety issues already. Thanks again!
  • hoverhover Posts: 10
    That sucks .. I had the same problem, only with the front seals and the dealer did fix it. The difference ? The dealer installed the 4 in lift kit and the 33's..
  • (or CSI: Sahara)

    I have a '94 Wrangler Sahara, approx. 125K miles, 4.0 6cyl.
    I'm about to make a transcontinental trip and would like to diagnose and fix this problem before I head out.

    The Jeep starts up fine when cold and runs well on short distance runs. However, once it warms up, it tends to run for about 20 miles before it starts stalling out. Sometimes it does this while driving at speed; other times it does this when I take my foot off the gas preparing to stop.

    After stalling out, I wait about a minute or two and the Jeep starts right back up again.

    As I'm in the California desert, I should note that summertime temperatures tend to run in triple digits when the problem seems most prevalent. However, it has happened in the winter especially during wetter weather.

    Needless to say, I don't want to start cross-country and have the Sahara die out on me. Unfortunately, I'm not mechanically inclined; so, I'd like to have some ideas before a mechanic looks the vehicle over.

    Also, would I be wise to let a dealer perform the diagnosis -- not usually my first choice since they tend to diagnose problems other than the usual cause -- however, considering my situation, I might go that way.

    Secondly, can someone tell me what kind of fuse I need for the cigar lighter/radio in the same vehicle? Is the heater on the same fuse? (I would think not, but I'm dumb when it comes to this stuff.)

    Any suggestions would be helpful.
    Thanks!

    Ciao for now!
    Mike
Sign In or Register to comment.