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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • jontowjontow Posts: 1
    Have you checked the cowl(sp?) area? That vent just behind the hood
    and below the windshield. I've had it happen to a few vehicles,
    especially ones that have been parked under pine trees and the like.
    The cowl area fills up with crap, displaces water that is supposed to drain out, and it ends up in the venting system to the cabin. Other than that, I can say that my 1988 Wrangler does NOT do this currently, and never has. Mine just leaks from the roll-bar pads after heavy rain with no top on :P Other than that, make sure you check into the windshield wiper gaskets/seals and make sure it isn't running inside that way, and then down through the dash to your legs. Keep in mind, if water is getting to both sides, its gotta be getting in on both sides, or travelling through a passage that goes there. Good luck! Let us know what happens.
  • I had a Dodge Raider / Montero that had less problems from 33k to 36k miles. The Raider with its design flaws lasted 18 years. I've had the following problems with the Jeep Wrangler SE 2002. It took three different California dealerships to replace a broken thermostat and to remove the codes. It was fixed correctly by a San Jose Jeep Dealership. Also, there were crank sensor codes that appeared while the running cold too long code appeared. That took three weeks to replace. Also, the neutral safety switch for the clutch failed before 36K 5hrs away from home during a vacation the next week and was replaced. Also, the front shocks were leaking! All of these things were replaced under the basic warranty. Some of the california jeep dealership techs are over worked because of the poor quality of jeep parts or they are under experienced. I'm glad that the demo was purchased $7k under mrsp new. The cheap wrangler rt-s tires were replaced with bf goodrich tires at about 25k miles. The stock tires are horrible in the rain.
  • I have 1993 jeep and the front end is so hard, does anyone no how i can make the front end softer
  • ghuletghulet Posts: 2,628
    I have a 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport, 4.0, manual trans, with 55k miles. Just went to the grocery store (fortunately only a few blocks away) using my spare key, came back out and the key wouldn't turn in the ignition. This happened once before with the spare key, I attributed the glitch to spare key and not because of a problem with the ignition or steering wheel lock. Apparently I was wrong. Anyway, I walked home in the snow/sleet (naturally), pick up my 'real' key, walked back to the grocery store to pick up the car, and no go. The original key didn't work, either. At that point, the steering wheel was locked, but I tried wiggling the steering wheel, pushing the key release button in and out several times, putting the car in neutral, putting it in different gears, making sure the clutch was fully depressed, the whole nine yards (I've had this happen before, but not on a four-and-a-half year-old vehicle with 55k miles).

    Has anyone had similar experiences with their Wrangler? If so, what's likely the problem and how much is it going to cost to fix (it's out of warranty, of course)? Is there something I'm missing or not doing right?
  • dvinkedvinke Posts: 1
    My heater is not working. I have replaced the thermostat and checked the coolant levels and still have no heat. The blower motor is working fine but only blows cold air when the heater is on. Any ideas of what the problem might be and how to fix it?
  • vatakvatak Posts: 8
    I have owned a 2005 Wrangler Sport for about a year now and ever since new, there has been this strange, constant squeak/squeal (probably coming from trans?) whenever the clutch pedal is fully out. If I press the pedal in, or even lightly rest my foot on it, the noise stops. Even the lightest tap will make it stop. But as soon as I take my foot completely off of the pedal, the noise returns. And it is constant.

    I took it to the dealer and they said they lubed some clutch part to make it go away. It went away for about 1000 miles, then returned as before. Took it back to the dealer again, and was told that the part was lubed again to make it stop but that the noise would most likely always return. They said they had checked with Chrysler who told them that it was "normal" and they were aware of it. Sounds fishy to me. Bottom line, my dealer said to just have this clutch part lubed every visit. Guess who gets to pay for that when the warranty runs out??

    Does anyone else have this problem or know anything about it? Does Chrysler really say this is normal?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's most likely the clutch thrust/release/throwout bearing (all different words to describe the same thing). It's not normal, and should be taken care of under warranty.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The blower motor is working fine but only blows cold air when the heater is on.

    I've no in-depth knowledge of the HVAC system on the earlier Wranglers, but diagnosis is fairly simple.

    First, when the coolant is up to working temperature, feel both the hoses linking the heater to the cooling system. One is a flow and the other is a return.

    If one is hot and the other is cold there is no flow through the heater core. This will either be a blocked core or a faulty valve (if fitted), or even both.

    If both hoses are hot the problem will be related to the blend door inside the HVAC housing. This door directs either hot or cold air, or a mix of both, through the air ducts.

    Repair for any of the failure modes is self explanatory.
  • When you say the front end is hard, I'm assuming your talking about the ride being rough. Am I right? If so, have there been any suspension modifications done to this Jeep? Is it stock or lifted? If it's a really rough ride you're talking about, I'm hoping it's lifted. Stock YJ Wrangler springs are pretty soft. After lifting with arched leaf springs,and keeping it sprung-under, alot of people choose to go with a spring-over conversion while putting stock YJ springs back under the vehicle. The spring-over-axle (SOA) conversion allows for about the same amount of average lift Wrangler owners go for, which is round about 4". Arched leaf springs that come with alot of lifts allow for a better ride than a go-cart with no suspension at all, but not much. Stock YJ leaves also allow for alot more flex than arched leaves. You'll lift a tire alot more often while using arched lift springs. I own an '88 (same body style as yours; YJ) and I have about 6" of lift. It rides pretty rough but I'm used to it. It takes a long time to wear or break-in arched leaf packs! Anyway, post some more details about your Jeep if this doesn't seem to help you find your problem and I'll see what I can do. - dixiecrawler
  • RE: 1992 Wrangler 4WD. My son just had a scary experience. As he was traveling ~35MPH, his right front wheel locked-up and spun the vehicle around the locked wheel, onto the right road shoulder. Fortunately, he was not going faster or he might have flipped. He said the only warning he had was a loud ‘clunk’ just before it locked up. After he collected himself, he tried to move the vehicle and heard the same ‘clunk’ again…he parked it.

    What I find suspicious is that the previous owner (vehicle purchased less than 30 days ago), supposedly replaced the front wheel bearings before turning it over to my son.

    Any experience and/or knowledge regarding this problem would be appreciated.
  • mblack3mblack3 Posts: 10
    I have this terrible odor in my jeep it seems to smell if the ac is not on you can smell it a little when the heat is on but its worse when nothing is on at all.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I've no idea what it is, but if it's not being blown in by the HVAC unit, then that narrows down where it is.

    Remove the carpets and let the Jeep air out. If the smell remains then remove the seats. If it's not the carpet or the seats, then tracking down the location of the smell using your nose should now be fairly easy.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    While you're waiting for a reply here you may want to browse through the messages in the archived discussion about mildew.

    tidester, host
  • mblack3mblack3 Posts: 10
    we've narrowed it down to something with the heater or ac not the carpets. its not a mildew smell it smells like vomit
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    we've narrowed it down to something with the heater or ac not the carpets.

    I guess that I misunderstood your earlier statement "...it seems to smell if the ac is not on...... you can smell it a little when the heat is on..... but its worse when nothing is on at all."

    If it is related the HVAC system then it either grew there, or was physically introduced i.e. someone threw up into it. If it contains vomit you'll have to clean it out (not fun), but if mould has grown inside the HVAC housing, maybe due to lack of use or a blocked condensate drain, then it can be treated with a antifungal/disinfecting spray. These vary in effectiveness depending on the type of mould and the frequency with which the A/C continues to be used. Why not get some advice from a local independent A/C specialist, as some of the sprays are designed to be injected through a hole drilled directly into a specific part of the housing.
  • mblack3mblack3 Posts: 10
    thank you someone told me they had the same problem with the smell and it was the ac evaperator.
  • mblack3mblack3 Posts: 10
    when i bought the jeep used the jack was missing.where is the jack stored while not in use under the hood or seat in need to buy on.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The original jack is normally stored under the rear of the passenger seat, with the accessories located on the inside of the passenger rocker panel. You could buy a small hydraulic bottle jack as a replacement.
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