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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Yes, there's a seal that's probably leaking, and you can subscribe online to the FSM for $25 for a year HERE.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Um...

    First thing. FIND A BETTER SPECIALIST!

    That axle lock is the locker button for use OFF ROAD ONLY (or other bad traction situations)! If you are using that onroad, I'd be willing to bet that you are seeing the results of driving with a locked differential. This is bad and could affect your differentials and your transfer case.

    If the button or indicator light is broken, replace it through www.jeepareus.com or your local dealer (it's about a 25-30 dollar part).

    As for 'shacking', is this SHAKING or a vibration?

    Is the Rubicon lifted at all? Are the tires balanced? Does your steering wheel move back and forth while driving and you experience this?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    As for 'shacking', is this SHAKING or a vibration?

    For some reason (senility? :sick: ) my brain wouldn't translate that one, so I though I'd better leave the whole thing alone. :shades:

    Your diagnosis sounds entirely correct to me.
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    Just a regular Spare Tire Cover. Its on.
    Thanks
  • Swapped out ECM.

    The only code I'm getting is TPS code. But, still get major rich run. Engine runs way rough. Still hesitates.

    I have a voltemeter to dial in the the TPS. Can anyone desribe the procedure of setting the TPS in the right parameters.

    Thanks

    DJ in the TJ
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    There are some differences between the '97 and later models but I think the TPS is the same.

    imageSee more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com
    If that doesn't show, this is the LINK.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I've replaced this on my TJ - last year actually - after driving a bit too fast through a mud hole. :)

    On mine, I removed the air tube to get easier access (I have the 4cyl), then it was just a matter of unhooking the wiring from it, buying a new one at Autozone for 53.00, and reinstalling. Mine faced the firewall, so getting the screwdriver back there on a 4.5" lifted TJ was fun, but I did it w/o too much effort.

    Ran SOOO much better.

    -Paul
  • 1999tj1999tj Posts: 7
    I have had the code po455 come up which is large vacume leak,however the engine runs fine when light comes on.It takes 3 days for it to reappear after canceling.I belive it is the filler seal or pump unit,anyone with information will be great?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    P0455 is a large leak in the evaporative system. The filler cap is usually the prime suspect, followed by a leak in one of the vacuum hoses servicing the evap monitoring system. While it maybe the pump or its connection, the probability is low.
  • 1999tj1999tj Posts: 7
    Thank's mac24, I have changed out 3 small vacume hoses that were brittle,I would like to know if the filler seal is leaking,would this cause the engine not to start on the first crank.It will start on the second or third crank? :confuse: thank's for any information you have!
  • 1999tj1999tj Posts: 7
    I read where someone was haveing a water leak on there wrangler,mine also has a leak on the driver's side,get's the floor board soaked :cry:, I have found that if I park with the front down or lower than the rear, after a hard rain it is dry as a bug :) haven't sat in the seat during a rain to see where it is gettin in but it doesn't leak while driveing.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    No, slow starting is usually attributable to a fuel problem, either filter/pump or maybe a leaking injector.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Guessing the location of a water leak from the outside is problematic to say the least. Easiest and quickest solution is for you to be in the vehicle while a friend gets enthusiastic with garden hose. Have them start at the bottom and work up, rather than going from the top down.
  • 1999tj1999tj Posts: 7
    Thank you so much mac24,you must be the guru on jeeps,i really appreciate this information.Could the pump going bad be the reason the code p0455(large vacume leak )is comeing on? To replace the filler seal, can I remove the screws from the outside or do I have to go from underneath? :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    No, I'm not a guru, but even if I was it wouldn't alter the answer I gave you previously. ;)

    The evap pump could be the source of the problem, but it's probably the least likely suspect.

    While the joint between the filler tube and the filler neck could be leaking, you would need to access both sides to work on it. I'd try a new filler cap first, or do a thorough check of all the remaining evap system vacuum hoses, before looking for more unusual causes.
  • fairviewfairview Posts: 20
    My 98 is the same. It never leaks except when parked headed uphill. I have had it for six years and found out early on that as long as I park facing downhill, it stays as dry as can be. I guess it is a lazy fix, but it works.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Sounds like a case of drainage issues.

    Mac's idea is spot on, but I'd guess that the A/C drain and/or the cowl vent drain is clogged, would be my guesses.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Good point, a clogged cowl vent drain or A/C condensate drain will allow water to enter the vehicle.

    However, in this case it's apparently a drivers side problem and the a/c issue is confined to the passenger side.

    One trick to trace water leaks is to thoroughly dry the suspect area, then dust with talcum powder/french chalk. The slightest drop of water running down will leave a clear path.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If you offroad it and get a lot of dirt/mud/dust, that has the same effect! ;)

    -Paul
  • 1999tj1999tj Posts: 7
    mac24,I bought a new gas cap,no change,light still comes on after 3 days,checked all vacume lines that I could,even replaced the line to cruise control box under battery,I belive it is the pump assembly and filler seal.I will be pulling the tank.I have a question as to why it takes 3 days for the light to appear? Also I have tried to locate the evap pump,the manuel shows one on the underside of exhaust manifold,not on mine? :confuse:
  • silver06tjsilver06tj Posts: 1
    Hey guys, new to this forum & hoping to get some input from other jeep people. I bought a brand new 06' TJ a couple months ago & have a knocking/clicking sound that is coming from the transmission area. The jeep is a six speed & only has 2,300 miles on it. I had 2 different mechanics look at it this week & they both think it's something internal in the transmission. I recently put a 3" suspension lift on it but the mechanics said that shouldn't affect the transmission internally. I have a service appointment with the dealership I bought it from but I'm worried about the warranty being voided because of the lift. Anyone ever heard of or had a problem similar to this?
  • 1999tj1999tj Posts: 7
    Mac24,fear not :surprise: for I will not ask any more of you about my jeep. I will continue
    to resolve my problem's as I have in the past. ;)
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Don't take it personally, but I can't catch every question on every Wrangler forum all the time. :)

    If you have an evap pump (not all do) it will be located on the inner fender under the hood on the driver's side.
  • delqhdelqh Posts: 2
    When I set a temperature set point above the minimum on my 2006 Wrangler air conditioning I get cold air from the dash vents but hot air from the floor vents. I have been told this is the way the temperature control works. Is this A) Outside or recirculated air, B) Does it simply bypass the evaporator or is it actually heated by passing thgrough the heater. It feels very warm.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I don't know about the '06s, but on earlier models when heat was added it would be emitted from any and all vents selected.

    If you dial in full heat with a/c do you still get cold air from the dash vents?
  • acordellacordell Posts: 6
    Hey guys, new to this forum & hoping to get some input from other jeep people. I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 - 5 speed that I bought 4 years ago (march 2003). It only had 42k miles on it when I bought it. This is my first Jeep to own and I really didn't know what to expect. It has never had great power since I bought it. I thought it would have more power and shortly after I bought it I carried it to a mechanic that did a tune up on it (plugs, wires, cap & rotor). It still had no more power than before the tune up. It runs great, no misses, no surges, no engine check lights, it just simply does not have the power I expected. It now has 92K miles and is still running the same as the day I bought it. I have put a K&N filter on it and it helped some but not much. After talking with a friend that has a Jeep he said it should have alot more power than it does. On the hiway top speed is about 75 mph going down hill. Going up hill it will lose 10-15 mph from bottom to top. If i'm running 70 and hit a hill it will drop to between 55-60 by the time I get to the top. Any suggestions as to what could be wrong or is this normal for a Jeep Wrangler?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's hard to tell without driving it (or you driving a similar one), though do remember that fifth gear is an overdrive and you should change down if you get on a slope.

    However, 75mph downhill isn't good. The first thing I'd check would be to see if the brakes are binding.
  • acordellacordell Posts: 6
    Thanks, but I've already checked the brakes. It is free-wheeling and is not binding in any way.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Ok, let's try a longshot. It's possible that for whatever reason, you have the wrong speedo gear fitted. Have you established that the speedo is accurate? The easiest way is to use a handheld GPS.
  • acordellacordell Posts: 6
    I have verified the speedometer is correct. Been clocked on radar and was accurate.
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