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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • HECK NO...
    7" of lift & Swampers
    13 MPG IS NOT NORMAL...
    its a miracle!!!
    The JEEP GODs must love you.
  • Yeah..no doubt you are probably right. I am hoping against hope that my Jeep was in a separate "batch" and won't have that problem If I have the plastic part I don't know what difference it would make when it was made.

    I only fly enough to keep my license. Good luck.
  • I have a 2004 jeep wrangler when driving in 4wheel drive it starts grinding and stops pulling if you go to change gears it won t go into gear just grind.drives fine in 2 wheel drive. any suggestion help
  • I have a 99 Wrangler - went to get the normal service and they SAID they had to replace BOTH DIFFERENTIALS. Many people have asked me if I heard ping-sounds, etc. NO THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG -- then I called another Jeep dealer who said he'd never heard of REPLACING them. It was about $3,000 I didn't have. Anyone ever heard of having to replace them? Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    First, has it always done this, or has it just started?

    Second, are you driving on a hard surface, or are you off-road in loose dirt or gravel?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I can't think of anything that could be wrong with them that wouldn't be giving dramatic symptoms of something amiss.

    Why not ask the dealer for an explanation as to why they need replacing?
  • I had a coolant leak that was spraying all over the inside of the hood and on the engine. I decided it was the radiator because of where the coolant was pooling up. I replaced the radiator and the problem wasnt fixed. Can't figure out where the leak is coming form. Anyone familiar with this problem?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The usual sources for coolant leaks are the radiator, top and bottom radiator hoses, flow and return hoses for the heater, and the water pump.

    As the radiator has been replaced and the same leak remains, you can probably rule it out for the moment. If one of the hoses is leaking to the extent that it's spraying all over the engine and hood, it ought to be fairly obvious.

    However, a water pump leak can be a little more tricky to spot. There is a hole on the underneath of the pump to allow coolant to escape if the shaft seal starts to leak. The reason for the hole is two-fold. First, it serves as a visual indicator of the problem. Second, it helps prevent the leaking coolant from reaching the bearing and causing the pump to seize. If the leak is small you need a small mirror to spot it, but if it's large the leaking coolant will get thrown all over the place by the fan, which may be the cause of your problem.
  • Hi all,

    I was driving my 97 Jeep wrangler home from work today. turned a corner to accelatrate and then I heard the loudest bang, sounded like a gun shot. I quickly pulled over to check the car. everything seemed fine. I started the car again put it into drive and it just rolled back. car sounded fine but it just kept rolling back. it would rev heaps but not move. Had to get it towed. I have had a small transmission and engine oil leak but i top them up regulary as i cannot afford the to repair the leaks. I may have learnt my lesson the hard way. does anyone on here know what that loud bang could have possibly been? what costs im looking at for it to be repaired?

    thanks heaps

    Jason
  • ...just a blind guess...
    Maybe something let go in the diff.
    Second place to look would be the transfer case.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    If you're lucky you've broken a halfshaft, which is an axle shaft that goes between the wheel and the center of the diff. Not necessarily 'cheap', but probably the least expensive possibility. It might also be one of the spider gears in the diff, again not too bad.
    However, if you've broken something in the transmission.................. :sick:
  • I purchased a 2006 jeep wrangler unlimited 6 speed manual trans. I have had it in the shop 2 times for a throw out bearing. Has any one else had this problem? I cannot find any info on this problem. Please tell me you might know something about this?!?!?!
  • HELP>>>
    The dash board and the radio died yesterday.
    They all quit at the same time. Nothing smells hot, no smoke, no fire.
    All of the gauges quit. (oil press, water temp, amps and fuel level)
    The speedo & tach are dead. Odometer too.
    The radio is also dead.
    Checked all the fuses. OK
    I have pulled the radio and checked all the wires and connections. OK
    Pulled the dash unit and checked the connections and ground wire. OK
    All the wires from the ign. switch look OK too.
    I am stumped...
    Any ideas. ????
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Assuming you don't use the clutch pedal as a footrest (do you?), you've either had two faulty bearings or they're being installed out of alignment for some reason. Warranty should be taking care of this so make sure they look carefully if it happens again.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Time to get out your multimeter, or at least a test lamp.

    The positive side of the power distribution starts at the battery. From there it goes first to the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and then on to the rest of the vehicle, either directly or via the fuse block behind the passenger glove box.

    You've obviously lost power to several circuits at once, so you need to find a feed source that common to all. I can only guess but I suspect the PDC or something close to it. This is where your multimeter comes in. Just because a fuse hasn't blown doesn't mean that power is reaching it. Trace the flow through the PDC and onward until you come to the stopping point.
  • well I ve only had it for 2 months.Actually the roads were icy.First time I used it.
    THANKS
  • I've owned my 97 Jeep Wrangler Sahara for about 6 months now. I've had an intermittant problem for the last couple of months. When I start my Jeep it typically turns over several times before starting anyways, but recently sometimes it didn't start at all, just clicked...I let it sit, try again in few, and it would start...when it did start, it wouldn't idle, just stalled out. After I stay on the gas and it ran for a few minutes it would idle fine. Finally, it threw a code one day and I read an IAC motor problem. I put in a new Idle Air Control Motor, and cleaned the throttle body, and it always starts now, but if I don't give it gas right away it will stall out or idle REALLY, REALLY low for the first 40 seconds or so that my Jeep is running. Runs totally fine after about 1min and starts/runs better warmed up. Holding gas pedal to floor on start doesn't help. No code now. Fule pump relay seems to be running. HELP please!! :cry:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Three possibilities spring to mind.
    Faulty transfer case, different size tires on front and rear axles, different gearing on front and rear axles.

    Two and three are easy to check yourself (there are some fairly recent posts on checking axle ratios, don't just go by the tag in your case).
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I think that you had two separate problems. First, a low voltage issue, then a faulty IAC.

    You've fixed the IAC issue so now you need to look at the battery, battery connections, and alternator output.

    Poor or no idle is a common symptom of low voltage. Unless it's new, or tests perfectly, I'd make the battery the prime suspect.
  • Thanks! The battery is only about 3 months old and I just checked and replaced the battery cable connections. I'll stop by someplace and have them check the battery just in case. Is there any way some kind of fuel pump problem could be causeing the starting issue, since I have to give it gas to start it? :confuse: Thanks! :)
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