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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Sorry to spoil your day, but here's a quote from the '99 FSM:

    "On vehicles equipped with a manual transmission,
    a lever is located on the steering column behind the
    ignition key lock cylinder. The lever must be operated
    to allow rotation of the ignition key lock cylinder. The
    lever mechanism is not serviced separately. If repair
    is necessary, the steering column assembly must be
    replaced."


    It's hard to tell what's causing your problem without actually seeing it, but you should be able to remove the lock cylinder and tumblers by drilling it out. You may then be able to fix whatever is causing the lever to jam. A new cylinder can be obtained from the dealer.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Assuming that the lift has been fitted correctly and that nothing is loose, then apart from fitting a lower lift there's nothing to be done.

    A 4" lift on a short wheelbase vehicle like a Wrangler has a much greater effect on the c of g and the handling than it would on a longer vehicle like a full size F250.

    Unless you have a specific need for 4" of lift, a 2" - 2 1/2" lift is much more vehicle and user friendly on a Wrangler.
  • jt828jt828 Posts: 12
    I have jacked it up and shook everything and i cannot find anything loose. How bout a stabilizer between the spring and stabelizer arm do you think that may correct anything. and the thing about the lift is it had 35x12.50 on it and as i said i just bought it yesterday
  • jetfan1jetfan1 Posts: 1
    Just bought a 93 jeep wrangler and when driving it it does not have a winding noise and i think on rear end noise when u let of the gas it should quit, but it dont seems like tire noise but kinda sounds like something rubbing or grinding, but checked underneath but dont see anything rubbing kinda sounds like a grinding noise and when you hit the brakes it dont make a differance but a highway speed you dont hear it,only a a slower speed or coming to a stop hope it is not rear end :cry
  • lanceklancek Posts: 3
    Just bought a 99 wrangler and don't know how to fold down the soft top. If anyone could help i really would appreciate it.
  • dnashdnash Posts: 35
    I have a 2000 and have the same problem. I am pretty sure I know the root cause, but I have not explored getting it fixed yet. (has been going on for several years) I was out on the golf course when an afternoon shower hit. Unfortunately, the top was down. I believe that water went into the steering column throught the hazard switch on top (you would think they would design it to handle this). I am assuming something is corroded or shorted in the hazard switch. When the brakes are pressed, it probably diverts the current away from this switch. Same with the turn signals. I think I have had intermittent issues with the turn signals, although I can't see them every time so I am not sure. If you get it fixed, please post the details.
  • jt828jt828 Posts: 12
    Problem found for those intrested it was a seperated belt in one of those 35x12.50 (left front)
  • 95yj95yj Posts: 1
    I have a '95 Sahara 4.0 6 cyl. My battery drained so I removed the alternator and had it tested. It showed that it was bad so I replaced it. The new one won't charge the battery, but it tested good. Charge is getting to the battery, but not a full charge. All connections are tight. Battery is good. Any ideas?
    Thanks
  • I seem to have the same symptoms; '97 Wrangler 4.0. I was reluctant to drop the gas tank and replace the fuel pump. However, I strongly suspect the fuel pump and I have replaced the coil recently. This problem was very intermittent at first but is happening much more often now.

    Please let me know how you are progressing on solving your problem.
  • jvprjvpr Posts: 48
    I have a 2004 Jeep Wrangler X and have to say that it's the biggest nightmare that I have ever owned. I will never buy another Jeep or Chrysler or
    American car ever again! The Jeep bounces you around. You can't hear the radio.
    You can't talk to anyone on a cell. It has no pickup. I've taken the roof off
    once- and NEVER AGAIN! It was such a headache to put it back together. It
    guzzles gas like crazy. It has no handling. The glove compartment is too small.
    You have to hold the gas hose while pumping gas and can't let it sit alone.
    Picking up dry cleaning is a pain because there's no where to hang anything. I
    have no trunk so when after I play golf I just can't leave my golf clubs in
    there. I have had to put patches on my tires four times already and the tires
    wear at an abnormal rate. The jeep has no wind aerodynamics- so on an open
    highway- you get blown everywhere and I have to struggle to keep this crap on
    the road. I'm done with it. Tomorrow I'm trading in for an Ultimate Driving
    Machine and can't wait!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I have a 2004 Jeep Wrangler X and have to say that it's the biggest nightmare that I have ever owned. I will never buy another Jeep or Chrysler or American car ever again!

    Wow! I guess your Jeep has a lot to answer for. Just curious, but did you even take a test drive?

    The Jeep bounces you around......It has no pickup.......It has no handling.

    Back to the test drive question again.

    You can't hear the radio......You can't talk to anyone on a cell.

    Test drive?

    I've taken the roof off once- and NEVER AGAIN! It was such a headache to put it back together.

    Again, the kind of thing one evaluates before one purchases.

    Picking up dry cleaning is a pain because there's no where to hang anything.........I have no trunk so when after I play golf I just can't leave my golf clubs in there......The glove compartment is too small.

    Not even a test drive required here, just sit in it and look around!

    You have to hold the gas hose while pumping gas and can't let it sit alone.

    Can't help there. None of the pumps around here allow you to lock the trigger on, so you have to hold the nozzle whatever vehicle you're in.

    I have had to put patches on my tires four times already and the tires wear at an abnormal rate.

    The standard GSAs are often criticized, but not usually for a lack of puncture resistance or abnormal wear (though they are a directional tire and the tread changes across the width). You may have needed an alignment, as can be the case with any vehicle.

    The jeep has no wind aerodynamics- so on an open
    highway- you get blown everywhere and I have to struggle to keep this crap on the road.


    I think I would have described it as having a greater sensitivity to cross-winds than the average sedan. A high body and short wheelbase will do that.

    Tomorrow I'm trading in for an Ultimate Driving
    Machine and can't wait!


    Well, good luck with your UDM, whatever that may be. I hope it doesn't disappoint, as that will eliminate you being able to purchase anything from that manufacturer, or that manufacturer's country, ever again.

    As for anyone thinking about buying a Wrangler, remember, it's not a car, it's not a truck, it's not an alternative to a convertible sports car, it's not an SUV.......... it's a JEEP, and it doesn't pretend to be anything else.

    P.S. Remember to take a test drive before you sign on the dotted line. :shades:

  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Posts: 250
    It's a JEEP, bye
  • nolid5nolid5 Posts: 148
    Amen, concise as always Mac. Although most points seem like common sense to me. As they say it's a Jeep thing.....
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    You have to be joking, right? Now seriously, you bought a TJ and expected it to be smooth, quiet, and sophisticated? That's like buying a 911 and then complaining about the lack of luggage space... As Mac said, next time Test drive the vehicle BEFORE buying it.
    Simple, huh?
    OTOH, you could do what I and several others on this board have done, which is keep the Jeep and pick up one or two UDMs to keep it company.
    It's called the best of both worlds...
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Don't forget the lack of side mirrors when you take the doors off! ;)

    tidester, host
  • surianosuriano Posts: 2
    I just bought a used 1997 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 4 cyl from a dealer. It has about 91,000 miles on it. When I first start the Jeep up in the morning it starts fine, then when I put the Jeep in drive "automatic transmission" and hit the gas sometimes the engine stutters and the rpm's go down to where it feels like it's going to stall out. I just hit the gas harder and then in about 2 seconds the problem goes away and won't happen again until after I shut off the Jeep. The jeep has to be turned off for about 10 - 15 minutes then I start it back up and the same thing happens just after I start to go forward. It starts stuttering again and feels like it's going to stall out. Can anyone please help me with this? I put the OBD II diagnostic scanner on it and it didn't pull any codes. Thanks!
  • jvprjvpr Posts: 48
    here's more on my jeep--- now my 2004 wrangler has a serious tapping / rattling noise coming from the engine-specially when you accelerate. it's a very loud clicking noise. when i accelerate, it gets louder. the dealer told me that my engine was blown. this doesn't sound right... the jeep only had 20,000 miles... is the engine fixable? could it be valve covers, heads or could the push rods be clogged?

    the jeep runs- only makes a loud and obnoxious tapping noise as if someone was under the hood banging away. what do you think? i need help...
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I replied to you in the Wrangler forum. It won't be the valve cover, head, or pushrods. An '04 with 20K should be under warranty still. Has it been denied?
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    I think it would take some serious abuse or neglect to kill a 4.0 in 20K; they will usually last for at least 200K.
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Posts: 168
    I have a 2004 BMW 330 and have to say that it's the biggest nightmare that I have ever owned. I will never buy another BMW or Mercedes or
    German car ever again! The ride is way too rough on dirt roads. You can't get the top or the doors off, and how are you supposed to hose out leather?
    It requires only premium gas. It has no traction in snow or mud, and driving over rocks makes the worst noises! I can't even drive next to a curb without scraping up the wheels or knocking the air dam off.
    Picking up lumber or fertilizer is a pain because there's no where to stack anything. These goofy high-performance tires wear at an abnormal rate. I can't even install a trailer hitch!

    I'm done with it. Tomorrow I'm trading in for a Jeep and can't wait!

    All meant in good fun. Please don't take it personally, but we love Jeeps for many of the reasons you hate them. Notice that nobody has disagreed with your statements. Yes, all of the downsides you mention are true. Except for the tires thing. I don't get that, and I'm not sure it can be blamed on the truck. The one great thing you have going for you is that Wranglers have excellent resale value, so someone will definitely want it. Before you trade, check out the owners board for the brand you're after here on Edmunds. Especially the problems and solutions threads.
  • Hey, I would change the spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor for starters.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Posts: 250
    Drew,

    Good one. I just got irritated. I like your approach better.

    Terry
  • Hi Eveyone..just bought a 98 Wrangler Sport..it has 105000 miles on it and for a month now it was bogging down when I accerlerated. I changed the air filter, and oil and filled all fluids. Right now it's doing a bubbling noise and shaking the jeep pretty hard. It does this while I am in neutral or drive. The oil gage seems to be off the rock cause it goes up and down all the time. When I accelerate it goes down...the sound is like a puttering...with violent shakes. The throddle body is dirty on the inside but not the outside where the intake is (hopethis is right) and the air filter wasn't even dirty when I changed it. Could it be spark plugs and wires? Sorry so long..I just want to make sure you understand!! Thanks do much!
  • Last week I took my 97 Wrangler in for an oil change and found out that my front brakes were metal to metal. Lucky girl that I am my husband is a mechanic so instead of paying someone else to replace them, I asked my husband to do it for me. Well, he got the new rotors/pads/calipers on and then I did my part by helping him bleed the brakes. For some reason after bleeding the brakes we still weren't able to get pressure back in the pedal when the ignition was turned on. My husband ( a few expletives later) thought that maybe the master cylinder needed to be replaced so we did that and still no luck. A few months back he had bought and installed a remanufactured master cylinder on his brothers truck that ended up being defective so we thought that maybe that was the problem. SO, I took it back and picked up a new one yesterday. So here were are we new rotors/calipers/pads/mastercylinder and no pressure when I push on the brake pedal. At this point my husband is absolutely frustrated because he is a mechanic and feels totally incapable at this point because this was such an easy task and it still isn't complete. Has anyone had a similar problem with their Wrangler? Any suggestions on what to try next? Thanks
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    I suggest asking your question in Stop here! Let's talk about brakes or Jeep Wrangler: Problems and Solutions and the main Jeep Wrangler discussion may also be helpful.

    tidester, host
  • bvcrdbvcrd Posts: 196
    When bleeding the brakes did you start with the brake the farthest away from the master cylinder? Did your husband bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it?
  • Yes, we started with the farthest, working our way to the closest. I'm not sure what you mean by bench bleeding the master cylinder. Could you elaborate?
  • Last week I took my 97 Wrangler in for an oil change and found out that my front brakes were metal to metal. Lucky girl that I am my husband is a mechanic so instead of paying someone else to replace them, I asked my husband to do it for me. Well, he got the new rotors/pads/calipers on and then I did my part by helping him bleed the brakes. For some reason after bleeding the brakes we still weren't able to get pressure back in the pedal when the ignition was turned on. My husband ( a few expletives later) thought that maybe the master cylinder needed to be replaced so we did that and still no luck. A few months back he had bought and installed a remanufactured master cylinder on his brothers truck that ended up being defective so we thought that maybe that was the problem. SO, I took it back and picked up a new one yesterday. So here were are we new rotors/calipers/pads/mastercylinder and no pressure when I push on the brake pedal. At this point my husband is absolutely frustrated because he is a mechanic and feels totally incapable at this point because this was such an easy task and it still isn't complete. Has anyone had a similar problem with their Wrangler? Any suggestions on what to try next? Thanks
  • bvcrdbvcrd Posts: 196
    Certainly. The master needs bled because there is air in the system even though you fill up the reservoir with fluid. There should be bleed ports where he can attach a small hose and route this hose back into the reservoir. Now, fill with fluid, and while pushing in on the rod on the back, you will see fluid and air coming out, back into the reservoir. Now the thing is primed and no air is present. This should be done while the MC is off the car. But, you said that there was not pressure before he even took the old one out. That could have been because the old one was shot. He will need to re-bleed everything after bench bleeding the MC because he may have forced new air into the brake lines.
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