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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Final suggestions. A gradually failing O² sensor can degrade performance without throwing a code. Also, a blocked, or partially blocked catalytic converter can do the same thing. You have two small ones on the exhaust manifold and it's possible that one could be good and the other blocked.
  • acordellacordell Posts: 6
    Thanks for the suggestions. I have not replaced the O² sensor. Are there two O² sensors? I have not checked the catalytic converter either. Do they make a test pipe for it or will I need to replace the converter?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You could have two, four, or even six O² sensors. They're always in pairs, one before and one after the cat. Take a close look at your system to see what you've got.

    The pics show the exhaust system, sensor locations, and the exhaust manifold. The yellow highlights on the manifold show the sensor locations as well.

    I don't know of a test pipe for the Wrangler but it wouldn't be too hard to fabricate one for the main cat.

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  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    C'mon guys! That's O2 - not O-squared! :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    If I have to remember one thing it makes be forget another. By the time I've remembered not to call it a lambda sensor I forget to subscript the 2.

    Nah, it's just one of my many blind spots.

    There: O2 :shades:

    Now, if you could do something about CarSpace continuing to hide my pics? :(
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Way to go, Mac! We're proud of you. :D

    Now, about that λ sensor ...! ;)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Touché! :shades:
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I am wondering what the gear ratio is in the differentials. What size tires were on it when you got it and what size does it have now? Wondering if it is using the 3.07 gears...

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I was wondering about that too, which was why I brought up the speedo gear issue. However, not being able to make a genuine 75mph downhill indicated that the engine is being restricted from revving freely. Excessive backpressure would cause this, which is why I suggested checking the cat. A loose muffler baffle can do the same, but is much less common.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    True, I hadn't considered the downhill stuff.

    When was the last time the fluids were changed in the transmission and differentials? My wife's 86 GMC Jimmy had never had the t-fluid changed until I changed it in 1996. :)

    -Paul
  • jon44jon44 Posts: 1
    i have a 1997 jeep wrangler se 4 cyl 2.5 liter, automatic trans, power sterring, no a/c. my radiator rusted through the bottom and it overheated. now it won't start. it's getting fire and fuel. no oil in water or water in oil. any ideas? :(
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Does it turn over at all?

    -Paul
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    Sometimes when I push in the clutch I hear a click. It doesn't happen all the time and "appears" to stop when I have been driving for about 20min. Sometimes it keeps clicking each time I depress the clutch I know there is a recall because of some plastic part.
    2006 JEEP WRANGLER POWER TRAIN:CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
    Recall Date: 05/03/2006

    Summary:
    ON CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 6 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, THE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER LINKAGE ROD MAY BREAK. THIS MAY NOT ALLOW DISENGAGEMENT OF THE CLUTCH WHEN THE PEDAL IS DEPRESSED.

    Consequence:
    UNINTENTIONAL VEHICLE MOVEMENT, INCREASED STOPPING DISTANCE, AND ENGINE STALLING COULD OCCUR WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.

    Remedy:
    DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER LINKAGE ROD FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON AUGUST 7, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403.

    Potential Units Affected: 6876

    I called them when I first read this, which was some time ago. I did not have the "click" problem but wanted to know if my Jeep fell into the recall dates. They said that my Jeep was made a month or so after the recall date. A bad batch..maybe but now I hear a click and wonder if that is the sound it makes when it is defective..?

    Any help would be appreciated
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    It's under warranty, let them drive it and diagnose it. But get it to em early in the AM when you haven't driven it so they are more likely to heard the clicking noise.

    Mac may have an idea as to what it is, but I know I sure don't. :)

    My 97's clutch is very quiet and works like a champ!

    -Paul
  • jimlw2jimlw2 Posts: 122
    I have a new 2006 Unlimited Rubicon with manual transmission. This is my first manual transmission vehicle so I am learning to drive it and maintain it. The owner's manual says...

    "Hydraulic Cluth Fluid - Manual Transmission - The clutch hydraulic system is a sealed maintenance free system. In the event of leakage or other malfunction, the system must be replaced." The engine compartment illustration shows no reference to a clutch fluid cylinder.

    When I look inside the engine compartment, I see a small cylinder next to the master brake cylinder. The small cylinder cap embossment says "Use DOT 3 Brake Fluid Filled to the Neck Line". I followed the tube from the cylinder down to a metal cylinder attached to the transmission. From these observations, I've deduced this is the clutch fluid cylinder.

    Question #1 - Is the owner's manual wrong and the clutch fluid system is not "sealed" or am I observing some other element of the vehicle I'm unaware?

    Question #2 - Inside the cylinder is a removable, cone-shaped rubber bladder pointing down into the fluid reservoir with a very small hole at the end of the cone. Do you check the fluid level with the rubber bladder removed or should you add fluid to the inside of the rubber bladder cone cavity while it's emersed down into the reservoir fluid?

    I'm asking these questions since I'm starting to think my novice manual shift skills have improved and I can no longer blame myself for "harsh" shifting. Granted, I suspect Jeeps are not going to be nice and smooth like a small car but I do get a catching feel in the gates of the shifter itself in gears 1 to 3. I wondered if the clutch pedal isn't fully disengaging the clutch as I feel slight resistance in the shifting to 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears and borders on being slighty "scratchy" trying to move through those lower gears. 4th, 5th, and 6th seem smoother and the stick seems to smoothly drop into each of those positions.

    I will take it to dealership for warranty check on my transmission concerns (just read previous post about slight whining noise with clutch not depressed while in neutral...failing throwout bearing??). Just wondered if there's some obvious low-fluid issue I can address first myself. That's what lead me to seeing that clutch cylinder and not seeing it mentioned in the ower's manual let alone how to properly read/adjust the fluid levels in there with that rubber bladder inserted.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    There's no maintenance required for the clutch system. Treat it with respect by not resting your foot on the clutch pedal, and don't slip the clutch too much when moving off or changing gear, that's all.

    The most difficult part for most people is learning to do a hill start. It's easier on a vehicle with a hand brake of course.

    If the hydraulic reservoir needs topping up then you have a leak, which is rectified by replacing the the master cylinder/slave cylinder/hose assembly. Fortunately, your warranty will cover it at present.
  • tphaynestphaynes Posts: 6
    Hey. This is a first for me , I have never written in a forum before so here goes. I posted this in another fourm but I think it should have been here. I have wanted a jeep since my days in the Army. I picked up a third hand, 97, Wrangler, 6 speed in really great shape. I use it for every day driving. I am not a wimpy driver but I do take care not to abuse the vehicle and drive train. After a few months it seamed that the clutch was “feeling funny”, I purchased the necessary replacement parts (clutch & pressure plate, bearings and clutch fork) and opened it up one weekend to make the repairs. I discovered all of the parts in good shape except for the clutch fork. The fork had a groove cut in it that matched the edge of the pressure plate. I observed no marks on the plate and no other deficiencies inside the bell housing. I replaced all the components with new and put it back together. Does anyone know what could have caused the problem? Now after a year and three months the same “feeling” is back and shifting is sometimes difficult. Any ideas?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Guess you lucked out and got an extra gear! ;)

    Actually, if you have got a six speed that could be the problem if five speed clutch components are being used.
    Otherwise, I'm not really sure. The release bearing is a fairly large item and it's hard to imagine it becoming worn to the extent that the fork will contact the pressure plate. Possibly an issue with the clutch fork pivot?
  • tphaynestphaynes Posts: 6
    You right 6 speed does sound silly, Brain cramp I guess. All of the components the I changed were (as far as I can tell) in very good shape with only slight wear on the clutch plate. The only thing wrong was the fork, it was almost cut 3/4 the way through. How do you check the pivot? could the stroke on the slave cylinder be too long and how can I check it?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    For the fork to touch the pressure plate either the pivot is too close to the clutch, or as you surmise, the slave piston stroke is too long.

    The pivot should be a ball head stud, so make sure someone hasn't replaced it with a bolt. As the piston stroke can't grow on its own, it can only be changed by being replaced with a different item.

    The master/hose/slave is supposed to be one sealed unit, but there are some conversions out there to replace the slave on its own. It should be obvious if the slave has been changed, and if so that may be the cause of the problem. I have no reference for the stroke length, so comparison is the only real check.
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